Study in Coimbra

I've always lived in a big city in a huge country - I am Brazilian from São Paulo, the biggest city in Latin America in the 5th biggest country in the world. But I came to Coimbra to study for a semester (6 months).

Coimbra, as you may know, is a small city in Portugal - which is a small country as well. The city has no more than 100 thousand inhabitants and the country has only 10 million people - all Portuguese people could fit in São Paulo.

So, when I got here it was a reality crash. Not only because of the different sizes of the places, but also because the culture is very different from Brazil.

Although Portugal has colonized Brasil and both countries speak the same language: portuguese, the accents are really different (and there are even different words), the routine is different and most of all, people are different.

But the differences were the best part of living and studying abroad. I loved being in Coimbra and I've learned a lot here.

Life in Coimbra

Coimbra is a city where everything revolves around the university - the biggest and oldest in Portugal, and one of the most traditional in the world. The city center is fulled with students and traditions.

Wherever you go during a week day you will probably see someone wearing cape and gown, typical students vestment. Also, walking around town you will hear fado, typical Portuguese music, playing from the fado pubs, from an independent artist or from a tuna, group of students that get together for playing music.

The university of Coimbra main campus is right in the middle of the city on top of the highest mountain in town. You can see the clock tower from almost anywhere, but even if you can't see it, you can probably hear it. Students and workers routine happen following this clock.

Also, since the university is so old, there are many tourists that come to Coimbra everyday to visit it. So, there are many souvenir shops, Portuguese restaurants and bakeries where you can have typical dishes such as pasteis de nata.

There are even other universities in the city, so everything revolves around the academic life for real. Due to that, there are many cultural activities happening, even though it is a small city. Every week there are film festivals, theatre spectacles, music festivals and more going on.

Moreover, since it is a youth city there are many parties going on, mainly on Tuesdays and Thursdays. During the weekends the city can be rather empty because the Portuguese students go back to their hometowns.

Many foreign people study in Coimbra as well. Through Erasmus program, students from all over Europe come here to have an exchange experience. There are also many Brazilian students like me, because Portuguese universities have a deal with Brazilian institutions and you can apply for studying in Portugal from Brazil (and the other way round as well).

Besides study, Coimbra has everything a city can offer: parks, shopping centers, restaurants. And it has a plus: a lot of history and traditions behind the walls.

The city is very catholic, just like the rest of Portugal and you will find churches at every courner. It also has an ancient history: it used to be an important village during the Roman Empire and it has vestiges of that time.

Adding to all that, it is a very beautiful city, with charming ancient building, small colorful houses, and it is located in the margins of Mondego River, composing a breathtaking skyline.

It is inspiring to live here, even though it is a very small town.

Studying

Like I said, the whole city revolves around the university, so studying here is an one of a kind experience. You will be among thousand of students and live a routine filled with tradition.

Once you get in the university you will be received by a freshman's tradition called Praxis. The activities can be rather humiliating sometimes, because you need to obey the older students, but there are also nice things such as fraternisation dinners, parties and more.

Also, you will study in the same buildings as many important figures of portuguese history and will participate in academic events that people from all over the world go to.

Sometimes this can be bad, because traditions block the new incomes. Other times it is nice and it adds up a lot to culture.

Teachers in Coimbra are very well known, specially in Law and Letters areas, but the courses are very theorical, lacking practice. I study journalism, so I missed practising my writing and researching skills, but I learned a lot about media theory.

Partying

Parties in Coimbra also revolve around the university life. There is a holiday for welcoming the new students, called Latada, when the older students sing a welcoming serenata and the freshman make a parade to present theirselves to town. In the end of the parade they are baptised at Mondego River.

Another academic holiday that happens in Coimbra is Queima das Fitas, when the graduating students celebrate their last year and say goodbye to the university and the town. They sing farewell musics and parade around town giving free drinks for everyone.

For a whole week there are big parties with international DJs for celebrating these holidays.

Also, the parties during the week are often organised by the students for raising money for Queima das Fitas. This are called Convívios, and they happen every Tuesday and Thursday in bars and clubs around town, with cheap drinks and music.

International students also make lots of parties. Erasmus community has meeting points and thematic events that they organise in bars and clubs in the city.

Most bars and clubs in Coimbra are located near Praça da República. Some of them are in Sé Velha, but all of them are close to each other. So you can start the night in one place, go to another and end it in other.

Parties also take place in the republics (frat houses), traditional student houses - some of them with more than 100 years old, that organise events and fraternisation for raising money.

Moreover, since it is a small city you will meet your friends even if you didn't plan on it (that can be both nice and bad, because you will see the same people everyday).

What to see in Coimbra

If you're going to Coimbra there are some places you can't miss. I listed them down below with a small description.

• Paço das Escolas

The most famous place in Coimbra is Paço das Escolas, a courtyard in the middle of Law School, the old Palace and the Clock Tower in University of Coimbra. It is a very beautiful and open place where you can admire the oldest building of the university and also see a panoramic view of the Mondego River.

In the center of Paço das Escolas there is a statue of D. João third, the Portuguese king responsible for transferring the University from Lisbon to Coimbra.

• Paço Real

The main building of the university is called Paço Real, and it used to be a kings palace before the University was transferred to Coimbra. Inside it you can find the Sala dos Grandes Atos, where the main ceremonies take place - such as the opening of the year classes, PhD events and graduations. Also, the old king's room and the room where royalty weapons were kept are open for visitations.

• Biblioteca Joanina

Famous for being the most beautiful library in the world, Biblioteca Joanina is part of the University of Coimbra. It is located in a building with over 300 years, made in rock and with wooden doors.

Inside the library there are thousand of books from the 15th to 18th centuries, and they are disposed in golden shelves that go all the way to the top of the building. There are classic paintings on the walls and ceiling, and the shelves are made of oak covered in gold.

The books are not available for everyone, and tourists can only walk in the main aisle to preserve the place. Photos are forbidden and there is a limited number of people that can visit it each day.

• Cabra

The University is symbolised by a clock tower, also known as "Cabra" by the locals. It is located in the very center of the main building and it is responsible for keeping students in time. Every 15 minutes its bells ring. Before watches and cellphones were a thing, it used to be the only way to warn the students about time, being the main symbol of the University.

Nowadays it is possible to visit its top to see a panoramic view of the city.

• Capela de São Miguel

Since the university of Coimbra is very traditional and Portugal is a very catholic country, there is a chapel inside the main building of the university. It is Capela de São Miguel, devoted to a saint that protected students and knowledge.

It is covered with Portuguese tiles and colourful paintings on the walls and ceiling. The main altar has gold details and there are two other altars dedicated to Catholic figures. It is a very beautiful church.

• Museu da Ciência

In the University it is also possible to visit the old Science schools, that are now a Science Museum, where you can see the old labs used by physics and chemistry classes, and the stuffed animals used by biology students.

Before becoming a museum and a school, it used to be a monastery for the Religious Order of Jesuitas. So the building is very old - with almost 500 years.

• Jardim Botânico

Biology students during the 18th and 19th centuries also needed a place to study plants and alive animals, so the university has a Botanical garden, still operating until nowadays.

There you can find plant species from all Portuguese ex-colonies and it is a very beautiful open air place. Researches still take place there, but part of the park is open for visitations. It is a great place to enjoy nature.

• Largo da Portagem

Besides the University, there are other nice places to see in Coimbra. One of them is Largo da Portagem, a square located downtown. It is a place in the margins of Mondego River, just in front of Santa Clara bridge.

There are many shops and bakeries there for people to enjoy having a coffee and Portuguese delicacy while admiring the old buildings around.

Right in the middle of the square there is a statue of Joaquim Antonio de Aguiar, an important Portuguese politician. Another important monument there is the old headquarter of Portugal Bank.

• Parque Verde do Mondego

Just by the margins of Mondego river there is a beautiful green park, great for practising sports and enjoying the open air. It is fulled with high trees and it has a nice path through them.

The park is on both sides of the river and it also has big lawns, great for having picnics. Also, there are places where you can swim in the river and practice water sports.

From the park you can admire a great view of Coimbra skyline and the river.

• Sé Velha

Coimbra has more than 50 churches, one of the oldest and most beautiful is Sé Velha, the old cathedral. It is located in the center of the city, and its surrounded by little medieval streets.

It is a medieval church, built in 11th century. It is made of rock and it has a beautiful dome covered with tiles and with a cross on top. From the bottom of it you can't see the dome, only the two main towers and the rock structure. Very beautiful.

Since it is close to the main campus of the University, the church is nowadays surrounded with student houses and bars and it is a great place to visit at day or night.

Hope that you love the experience and the city just like I did and enjoy the traditions and different cultures.

• Sé Nova

The city's cathedral is located in its very heart: the main university campus. It is called Sé Nova (new Sé), because it was built to overplace the older cathedral. People from Coimbra needed a bigger and more central church, so in the 18th century it was built.

Its facade is very symetrical and made of rock, with red doors made of wood. Inside, you can see the church's dome and a beautiful altar.

Sé Nova is located in front of the old Medical school, in a big courtyard where academic ceremonies still take place until nowadays. The serenade performed during the holidays of Latada and Queima das Fitas happen in front of this church.

• Igreja de Santa Cruz

In my opinion the most important church in the city, though, is Igreja de Santa Cruz, located in downtown Coimbra. It is the biggest one and where most events (not related to the university) take place.

The church was built in the 12th century and it used to be a monastery as well. It was reformed a lot of times, but the facade still has some original elements, such as the rock sculpted gateway on the entrance.

Inside the church there are beautiful Portuguese tiles on the walls, an organ and a simple altar. You can visit the cloisters of the church as well, where the tomb of Portugal's first king is located.

• Praça 8 de Maio

The very center of the city is at Praça 8 de Maio, a square in downtown Coimbra where you can find the City Hall, Igreja de Santa Cruz and the city's ground zero.

It has a fountain the middle and is surrounded by old buildings covered with Portuguese tiles. Also, the square is located in the end of two important streets in town: Sá de Bandeira avenue and Ferreira Borges street.

The square has many events going on, from Fado shows to Christmas celebrations.

• Praça da República

Another important square in Coimbra is Praça da República, a place where you can find many bars and pubs. It is located in the end of Sá de Bandeira avenue, an important and beautiful avenue in town, with many trees, restaurants, bars and clubs.

Every night, the square is fulled with students wanting to party and enjoy the night. It is a really cheerful place.

• Jardim da Sereia

Just in front of Praça da República there is a very beautiful garden called Jardim da Sereia. It is a green area with many trees and plants in the center of Coimbra, where you can enjoy the open air, practice sports and admire nature.

Right on the garden's entrance there is a beautiful fountain with Portuguese tiles and waterplants. It is a historic monument with more than 200 years old - because nothing in Coimbra hasn't got tradition.

• Escadarias Monumentais

The main campus of the University of Coimbra is located in the highest point of the city. Therefore, students have to climb lots of hills to get there and there is a major stairway called Escadarias Monumentais, that are the main path to get there. They connect Praça da República region to Largo D. Dinis.

Everyday thousand of students climb them to get to class. Since they are so familiar in their routine, they also became a place where events and political manifestations happen.

• Escadaria Quebracostas

Can you imagine a stairway so high that is called "back breaker"? That is Quebracostas, a stair that connects downtown Coimbra to Sé Velha church. It is very narrow and steep, being very hard to climb, but it is a nice place to see in the city because it is located in a very traditional region, with many Fado pubs and souvenir shops.

The stairway is in the middle of a medieval neighbourhood, with very narrow streets, small houses and rocky ground.

• Arco da Almedina

Coimbra used to be a medieval city during the 12th and 14th centuries, and there used to be a great wall surrounding it. Very little of that wall remains, but there is still a part of it in the downtown region. It is called Almedina Arch and Tower, an it was built on the 12th century as an entrance to the walled city.

It is a very beautiful place and it divides the high part of the city to the downtown, leading to the Quebracostas stairway.

• Zé Manél dos Ossos

Tradition is also present in Coimbra gastronomy. Around town you will find many tascas, how the Portuguese call small local restaurants. There are also more modern and international food, due to the amount of foreign students in town, but Portuguese cuisine remains.

The most traditional restaurant in town is Zé Manél dos Ossos, a very tiny tasca - with only 6 tables, that serves homemade Portuguese delicacy such as Seafood (codfish, grilled fish, octopus, rice and more), and pig meat. The most famous dish in the house are the pig bones, very well seasoned. Also, the desserts are a must eat: the typical "vomito" (Portuguese word for puke) is a delicious cream made of almonds and eggs. But really, anything in the menu is great.

To make everything even better, the price is very fair. You can eat a whole meal (starters, main dish, dessert and drinks) for 12 euros.

There are not many vegetarian options, though, and because the place is so small, there are big lines to eat there everyday. But don't get discouraged! Just get there early (half an hour before opening time) and you will have the meal of your lifetime!

• Penedo da Saudade

Besides tradition, Coimbra is also a city loved and missed by many. Ex-students who lived in town pay tribute for the city they love so much in a place called Penedo da Saudade.

It is a garden on a high point in town where graduated classes of the University honour the city with rock plates with poems dedicated to Coimbra. From Penedo da Saudade you can enjoy a great view of the city, the open air and also feel the love dedicated to the town.

• Quinta das Lágrimas

In addition to being a historic and academic city, Coimbra is also a romantic place. It is the city where the most famous love story in Portugal took place: the story of Pedro and Ines.

Quinta das Lágrimas is a garden in Coimbra where Pedro, a Portuguese king from the 14th century, used to meet his lover, Ines de Castro. Their love was forbidden and ended in tragedy: the woman was killed and Pedro revenged her death. The story is known as the Portuguese Romeo and Juliet.

You can (and must) visit the place where all of this happen. It is nowadays a beautiful romantic garden, where some events take place. Part of it is also a luxurious hotel.

• Mosteiros de Santa Clara

Another historic place in Coimbra are the Mosteiros de Santa Clara, old monasteries that used to exist in the city. The old one was flooded for many years because it used to be on the margins of Mondego River. Other monastery was built to overplace it, in a higher point of the city.

Both of them are open for visitations nowadays. The oldest is a museum and you can visit the ruins of the monastery. The newest became a militar basis during the 19th and 20th centuries, but now it is a place where many events take place, such as art exhibitions. Nice places to go to while in Coimbra.

• Mata do Choupal

If you like to enjoy the open air and nature, the best place for that in Coimbra is Mata do Choupal, a natural reserve made to avoid the floods of the Mondego river. It is located in the margins of the river and has many beautiful trees, plants, a nice picnic area, a vegetable garden and ecological trails.

Hope that you enjoy everything that the small town of Coimbra can offer you. I sure did.

If you are looking for more info about Erasmus you can look here.