Bukhara, Uzbekistan

Since this is the very first post of this blog, I feel like I should write a small introduction to give you an idea what to expect from these blog series (because obviously, the 150 characters were not enough). As stated in the blog's description, these blog series will be dedicated to the three years I lived in Uzbekistan, from 2014 - 2017. During this period, I mainly lived in the capital of Uzbekistan, which is Tashkent. I was also blessed with the opportunity to travel to other parts of the country such as Bukhara, Samarqand, Namangan, and others, to witness their culture. Uzbekistan is still a fairly new country as it has been only 26 years since it gained its independence from the former Soviet Union (USSR) in 1991. This budding young nation was once situated on the Silk Road, hence the title of my blog series. Uzbekistan houses many mesmerizing historical sites and ancient artifacts. The Uzbek culture is an amazing fusion of Eastern Asia, the Middle East, and Europe, and this is pretty evident in the cuisine, the Uzbek people's physical appearances, language, architecture, and in the political and education system. I will try to touch upon all of these different categories in this blog!

In 2015, I worked as a homeschool teacher for families of the international staff at General Motors Uzbekistan. This job was very challenging and required me to provide specialized instruction to middle school students without supervision. I utilized the Calvert School Curriculum and developed and executed lesson plans adapted to the needs of each pupil. And at the end of the academic year, I figured an amazing way to finish off was with a memorable trip! So I planned a school trip to the old historic city of Bukhara in order to help familiarize the children with the history and culture of Uzbekistan. We linked up with a few people and planned a three-day trip. The children were mainly from the United States and had not ever traveled to this part of Uzbekistan so you can imagine their excitement. It was indeed the perfect way to end the academic year! This trip is one of my most absolute favorite trips ever and I am ecstatic to be sharing it with you guys on this blog post today. Be prepared for rich history, mouth-watering food, and sublime architecture this magnificent city has to offer.

How do you travel to Bukhara from the capital city of Uzbekistan, Tashkent?

There are a few different ways to travel to the city of Bukhara from the capital city:

1. Plane: We bought our tickets in person at the Uzbekistan Airways box office. We booked our plane tickets a few weeks in advance and it was around 30- 40$/person at the time. There are 2 flights that travel from Tashkent to Bukhara on a weekly basis so when planning a trip, make sure you plan accordingly. It is important to note that the plane departs from the domestic airport near the Sergeli district. (Do not show up at the international airport! ) The flight was roughly an hour long and the plane we boarded was rather old so as you can imagine, the flight was not the smoothest but we made it safe and sound! And that's what matters.
2. Trains: You can purchase train tickets from the Tashkent Railway Station. I would advise purchasing them 1-2 days in advance. They run out pretty quickly in the summer. Prices range from $30 - $55 depending on whether you want to board VIP, business or economy class. Rides are about 4-8 hours long depending on whether you take: the fast train, the regular train, or the night train.
3. Buses and taxis: I do know there are buses and taxis that commute to-and-fro Tashkent and Bukhara, but I do not know much about the pricing and duration of the rides. However, I am sure bus tickets and taxi fares are probably a lot cheaper in comparison to trains and plane tickets.

Once in Bukhara, there are taxis that can help you with getting around the city and surrounding towns. In Uzbekistan, there are two types of taxis - the official kinds with the Taxi logo somewhere on the car and then there are your everyday cars serving as taxis (sort of like picking up hitchhikers). So many people use the latter and they are pretty safe and are relatively cheaper compared to the official taxis. Just say your destination and these taxi drivers will get you there!

Where can you stay during your visit?

Bukhara is a very hot spot for tourists so there are many places for travelers to stay. The most common form of accommodation are B&Bs and they are some of the most absolutely loveliest B&Bs out there! Many of the places incorporate the country’s mosaic tiles and traditional artifacts when decorating their hotels so you are guaranteed to get an incredible glimpse at the country’s creativity.

You can reserve a room on the internet through different booking websites or you can also call - usually a phone number is listed. Almost all front desk employees speak some level of English since the city attracts tourists from all over the world so do not worry about any language barriers!

Like I said there are so many accommodation spots but we wanted a place near the main historical center and after some doing some research on the web and asking around, we found the perfect little artsy B&B!

To this day, this B&B would have to be one of the best hotel stays I have ever had! It was an all around great experience. I learned that it was once a Jewish school in the 1700’s since Bukhara was a home to many Jewish refugees (Uzbekistan is a predominantly Muslim country). The place was later renovated into a bed and breakfast by a local family. Many of the locals make/ earn their money through tourism since the city attracts many. Many families have taken advantage of this and opened bed and breakfasts in their own homes, build their own family restaurants, set up their own shops selling various crafts, etc.

Every morning, we were served a heavenly breakfast on beautiful Uzbek traditional tables called dasturkhons. We were given fresh warm Naan (bread), porridge, crepes, tea and coffee, and fresh fruit from a nearby orchard.

My favorite part was our rooms! They were so artsy and cute. The wall was completely covered in deep blue mosaic tiles with Arabic writing embedded in the tiles. The beds were set up with the beautiful national fabric called the adras. I believe this added a beautiful touch to the bed covers and sheets.

What are some must-see places in Bukhara?

The good thing about Bukhara is that many of the historical sites are a walking distance from each other so you won’t have too much trouble finding them. A couple of the important sites are outside of the main center so they require a short taxi trip but it is definitely doable. You can also just swing it and explore the city and most likely you will hit these important places but I always think it is a good idea to have some sort of background knowledge of these places before seeing them in real life. Now here are some places you absolutely should not miss when in Bukhara:

1. The Great Minaret of the Kalon: An incredible piece of architecture in its own right! It is situated in a magnificent little courtyard enveloped with madrasas. If you have done a lot of walking, you can take a five and admire the beautiful surrounding architecture. This minaret is a very important piece in Bukhara’s history! Genghis Khan who is known for being ruthless spared this towering structure. Also for the longest time, many executions of criminals were carried out by throwing them into their demise from the top of this 46- meter minaret. Unfortunately, you cannot climb up to the top!

   

2. Moschea Bolo- Khauz: You cannot miss this beautiful mosque with its superb towering wooden pillars. It is very unique looking and as you will see, the exterior is quite different from other mosques in Uzbekistan. The wooden architecture attests to the creativity of the Bukharan craftsmanship. Unfortunately, the interior was being renovated at the time of our visit but I have heard its equally impressive as the exterior.

   

3. Arc Fortress/ Zindan: a beautiful entrance to a collection of mausoleums. I felt like I was walking into a fortress and it also has quite the captivating historical background! It houses the infamous “Bug Pit” where British prisoners Colonel Charles Stoddart and Captain Arthur Connoly were captured and incarcerated until their execution. The men were originally there to free Russian slaves but the Emir of Bukhara believed the two men were spying for the British army and thus, sentences them to death.

   

   

4. Arc Citadel: This is one that is very hard to miss! The arc is huge and makes for picture perfect photos. Occasionally, there are a couple of camels hanging outside of the arc so for a little sum, you can capture a very cool middle eastern picture. On the inside, you can find exhibits and they tell a great history behind the kings who ruled the city and their empire. You can also climb up to the top, where you will have a great view (and amazing pictures)!

   

5. Chor Minor: it means 4 minarets in Tajik (the main language of Tajikistan, a neighboring country). This beautiful building is smaller in comparison to the other magnificent structures of Bukhara. The site is also situated across from the cutest little artifacts shop!

   

   

6. Lyab-i-Khauz: a hot-spot for tourists! It is a lovely pond area located in the center of the historical district. Here you can find many hotels, little shops, and cafes. Do expect a lot of people including tourists and locals wandering around as it is the perfect spot to grab an ice cream and relax on a bench under a cool shade. We were lucky enough to experience a lovely instrumental concert on our last night here! That’s what I adore about this quaint little area - sometimes they hold mini national concerts and performances in the evening where you can experience the wonderful entertainment world of the Uzbek culture.

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7. Chor- Bakr Necropolis: I absolutely fell in love with this stunning memorial complex! It was a little outside of central Bukhara so we needed a car to get there. What is special about this place is that it hasn't really been renovated so it has been able to maintain it's authenticity. It is a holy pilgrimage site to many Muslims as this is where the remains of Abu-Bakr-Said is buried. For my history lovers: Abu-Bakr-Said is a very important figure in the Islamic religion because he is one of the descendants of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh). Many Uzbeks visit this tomb complex and perform prayers and pay their respects. I was told that before going on a pilgrimage to Mecca (one of the five pillars of Islam), it is necessary for Uzbeks to first pay a visit to Chor- Bakr and Shah-i-Zinda (another holy site in Uzbekistan).

   

What are some top things to do in Bukhara?

Since I was traveling with a group of tweens (and their families), it was important to keep these children entertained. Sightseeing and learning about history can get quite boring for kids so the grownups and I put together a couple of interesting activities for the children to do! However it wasn't just the tweens who found these activities enjoyable, the other adults and I were very pleased with them as well!

The Bukhara Puppet- Theatre

This place is the ideal spot for children, families and anyone who is looking for something fun to do in Bukhara! It is suitable for foreigners because texts are in English and the proprietors can also communicate in the English language. The owner was very sweet and informative, and he also gave us a little impromptu performance with an Uzbek girl puppet dressed in traditional atlas clothes, dancing to customary beats. Click on the following link to check out a short Instagram video of this performance.

>Miniature painting lessons + dinner

Bukhara is noted for its miniature painting. It was a center for this form of artwork in the 1700's and to this day, many Bukharans continue to practice and teach miniature painting to the young generation. We were able to connect with a master miniaturist who hosted visitors and tourists in his home and executed informative hands-on sessions. This was a very cool experience where we were able to learn a great deal about the history of this art, the steps it takes to create this type of art, and most importantly the children were also able to try it for themselves! Unfortunately, I do not remember the exact name of the organization or the place so I will not be able to provide that information. However, I do have a couple of pictures to give you an idea of the lovely setup:

What is the climate like in Bukhara? What clothes should you take?

The perfect time to visit Bukhara and in general, Uzbekistan, is either during the months of Spring or Autumn. Summers get very hot and winters get quite cold (and not so appealing to the eyes) so I would not advise visiting during those months. Unless you can bear the heat, then the summers are not too bad!

Many assume that since Uzbekistan is a predominantly Muslim country, you need to dress modestly when traveling. This is not true! Uzbekistan was once part of the former Soviet Union so as a result, many of it's western ideas had a major influence on the culture. And because the government is secular, dressing modestly is more of the decision of the Uzbek people and their families.

When traveling in the country, you will notice many of the elderly and some of the younger generation (depending on the area you’re visiting) dressed in traditional clothing or at least some form of modest clothing. Usually, their shoulders are covered and dresses are over the knee, etc. However, there are plenty of Uzbeks, especially in Tashkent (the capital), who dress very modern. However, expect to get stares or looks if you dress provocatively like wearing crop tops, mini skirts, etc. So all in all, if you were to visit Uzbekistan, I would advise you to wear whatever you feel comfortable in! Just make sure to be modest and respectful when visiting holy sites such as the mausoleums.

Is Bukhara a safe city to visit?

Bukhara is very safe! I have never heard of anyone being in any sort of trouble. There is not much of a nightlife (at least to my knowledge) so there is really no need to be out that late. And fortunately, pickpocketing is not something you need to be worried about! A thing to note, locals do often stare! Uzbekistan is a pretty young nation and tourism is quickly growing, which means the locals are also slowly getting used to the idea of seeing flocks of tourists wandering their streets. However do not be alarmed or afraid if you get stares, it is considered pretty normal, they are just curious!

Uzbeks are best known for their hospitality and kindred hearts and they are constantly trying to make guests feel welcome. Also if you are an English speaker, you will notice many of the younger generation trying to make conversation. This is mainly because the demand for the English language has increased and they just want to practice..., probably to prepare for their IELTS exams!

What is the food like?

Bukhara is known for its tandoor kebab. And let me tell you it is SO GOOD! It is insanely delicious and just mouth- watering. If you love meat, this is a dish you have got to try! Here is a photo that will not do justice to it's taste but still a nice picture nonetheless.

Other foods you can try are Plov, Shashlik (shish kebab), naan, etc. For those who don’t usually like to experiment, the menus at the cafes also offer typical western food such as burgers, hot dogs, and pasta, etc. Uzbek food is generally on the heavier side (high in calories and fat) so keep that in mind. Drinking alcohol is not an issue in this Islamic country so do not worry, you will be able to purchase alcoholic beverages. And the drinking age is 18 but to my knowledge, the restaurants and liquor stores do not usually check for identification.

How is the shopping?

Bukhara is a wonderful place to go shopping for some indigenous items such as flying carpets and rugs, embroidered jackets, tapestries, pottery, jewelry, handmade scarves, and many others! I do believe the prices are a bit higher compared to other places in Uzbekistan since the city is a tourist magnet. As a result, the shopkeepers tend to increase the prices to foreigners. However, the good news is you can bargain! So, make sure to do some good haggling.

On the whole, Bukhara is a beautiful place and I hope I have inspired you to visit and check out this beautiful, underrated landmark!

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