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So, Donostia...


Before Donostia

I don't know where to start this story... The beginning could be the day I decided to do a year abroad, or maybe the day I thought about the possibility of going on one, or the day they told me I couldn't go to my first choice destination, so I picked Donostia and not any other city... but maybe none of these were the start, maybe my path had already been set. After all, we all have a destination, one that we have chosen yet at the same time, has already been decided.

The waiting was over and the day arrived in the worst way. Too many suitcases and tear-filled eyes. I said goodbye to the everyday life that had been built over 21 years. But at the end of the day, I knew I'd be back to find it.

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I crossed an ocean with company still... The first coincidences began. And so we arrived, another continent, another country with completely new experiences, people and places. It was then that I realised that I had left my comfort zone far behind, in the place that I knew, in a place where I knew I had people to support me; now I was completely lost, and I won't lie, to begin with it was difficult.

First stop: Madrid. My first contact with Spain. In fact, my first contact with Europe. Those five days were beautiful: walking around with suitcases that contained our entire lives. The first night out, wandering around the city at 3am, not knowing exactly where we were going. Strolling around enjoying ourselves so much we'd forget what time it was. Running running running to catch a train that didn't wait for me.

Life knows how to show you how important people are. The further away you are. The more you notice that there'll be people who will become like family to you. People who don't mind running like crazy, picking up your suitcases, who feel low themselves but don't mind helping you through your troubles. People who will go with you the next day to make sure you catch your train. The train that will take me to my destination, of course, not before I've shed a few tears. You will cry, it's inevitable that you'll feel homesick, but you'll also laugh like you never have before. In a matter of days you'll have experienced it all.

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So, Donostia...

Donostia hit me like a big wave, the kind that you hear getting closer, but don't move away from because you want to get wet. You want to be soaked in that cold water, that water which is so blue.

"Donostia smells of the sea, along all its coastline, in every one of its beaches(1), even the grains of sand I swept up daily when cleaning my flat carried the smell of the ocean. The port where we always used to sit and eat ice-cream(2) smelt of algae and fish. "

Beaches and other important places

  1. Without a doubt, the most recognisable part of Donostia is the Concha Bay and the famous railing that surrounds it.

    the Concha bay has the feeling of contained immensity. The immensity of the blue sea which is contained by oh-so-green mountains and the island at the center of the bay. These mountains that surround the bay are how the concha bay got its name, because it's shaped exactly like a shell, or a "concha" in Spanish.

    The railing, as well as being an icon of Donostia, meant a lot to me. This is because once a year, the railing is used as a bar for many classical dancers which leads to a wonderful spectacle: a ballet class in front of the sea.

    This railing had (before its remodeling the year before I went to Donosti) a little quirk: a single part of it was back to front. That is to say, a flower in the center of the railings design faced the sea rather than the walkway.

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    The cocha bay has many other iconic buildings along its shore, not just the railing. Let's start with "el barco" or the Real Club Náutico (which is actually Gu), the town hall, the carousel and the garden Alderdi Eder. Then there is the Hotel Londres and in the center there is the architectural complex that includes "La Concha" café, the club "Bataplán", a talaso sport and "La Perla" restaurant.

    Below this are "los bajos", a place that allows you to protect yourself a little from the sun during the day and offers a good place to have a drink with friends at night.

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    Just like the shore of the Concha, but a little closer to Miramar, is one of my favorite places in Donostia: "la banca". Here, there are two wooden benches, overlooking the sea, which provide the perfect place to see how the weather changes both the sky and the ocean in Donostia. I loved watching the city from here.

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    "Zurriola" is a beach with a young vibe where you can do anything. For me, it was a meet-up point, a place to play volley ball or try surfing (try being the operative word). It was a place to have a picnic, drink or collect seashells. A place to simply be.

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    My favourite place was the rocks which divided Urumea from the sea, and the wall before Kursaal where we would all go to chat after pitxo-pote and before going out.

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    Ondarreta is a beach which is a bit more informal, but this doesn't take away from its quirkiness. It's the beach closest to the Isla de Santa Clara. In summer, you can go stand-up paddling and visit the shore of this island, you can even swim to it. In this season you can also see the strange awnings with the "txuri-urdin" (white and blue) stripes.

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  2. The Port is without a doubt a meeting point. A place to take a dive into the sea from the steps (although it is forbidden to dive here, everyone does it), to enjoy the sunsets, to get something to eat, to drink with friends before the party starts. It's between the Boulevard and the beach of the Concha, so you'll definitely end up here at some point.

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  3. The Boulevard is one of the most crowded areas. It's where you stay with your friends either in the McDonald's (because it is the only one in the entire city) or in its beautiful kiosk. It is the one you go through more times than planned, since it connects Gros with the Old Part and this one with the Shell.

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    The same goes for Liberty Avenue, parallel to the boulevard. It has an endless amount of shops along and flows to the Paseo de la Concha or the Santa Catalina Bridge. If you go shopping in San Sebastián, you simply have to go here.

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    In the middle between the Boulevard and Avenida Libertad is the Plaza Guipúzcoa. One of its buildings is the Diputación Foral de Guipúzcoa, but what stands out most within the square is the beautiful flag of the Basque Country which waves in the wind. It changes a lot according to the season. My favorite is spring, where you can see the swans from the little lake; although autumn has a simply beautiful warm hue over the treetops.

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Climate and activities

“Donostia feels so big from my massive bed, yet so small compared to my hometown (1) . It feels cold when the wind blows, wet when the waves are huge (2) , when the txirimiri (3) starts to fall, wetting my face and freaking out my hair. It feels warm when the sun comes up and I met my friends on the beach, or when I went out partying hard (4)

  1. Donostia is a clear example that the best things come in small doses. It's a small city if you compare it with Mexico City (my hometown), but being small makes it unique; you can cycle, even walk around it, you can enjoy its different atmospheres at different times of the day. You can change bars as often as you want. You can have breakfast, lunch and dinner and eat a huge variety of exquisite cuisine. You can climb its mountains, visit its churches and museums. You can swim, surf, or sail in its sea. Without a doubt the fact that it is small doesn't mean it doesn't have an endless amount of activities to offer.
  2. The wind in Donostia is always blowing, and it's very strong... but this makes unique things happen in the city. For example; stand by the holes in the pavement of the Peine en el viento and listen and feel the wind all over your body. In February the immense waves on the Paseo Nuevo are visually fantastic and it's great to listen to sea crash against the rocks.

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  3. Something every traveler should pack in his suitcase should they want to travel to Donostia is a sturdy umbrella and, even better, a raincoat, given that sometimes umbrellas don't withstand the wind. Every time it rains you can find countless numbers of broken umbrellas abandoned on the pavement or in bins. Yes, it rains a lot. But the txirimiri is something special... it's not normal rain, it's thin, calm, light. It almost doesn't get you wet, it just dishevels you.

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  4. All kinds of fun

  5. No matter how small the city is, like any good Spanish city it has a good night life. There are many places which cater for all kinds of fun. From quiet bars where you sit down to drink a Keler beer, a kalimotxo, or a sangria; to clubs where you can dance the night away.

    My favorite places were:

    Gros

    • Ondarra: a bar where many surfers meet and a place to gather after a good pintxo-pote (this is where a selection of bars in Donostia offer a drink and a pintxo for a small fixed price, usually €2, one night each week).
    • Ondarra 16 bis: After drinking a little in Ondarra, if you want to dance, go down those narrow stairs and you'll find a place with a good vibe. On Thursdays, there is live music following pintxo-pote.

    Parte Vieja

    • Calle San Juan de Bilbao (for us: the Basque street) is a street with many bars, but they stand out for having a more Basque atmosphere. However, you'll find all kinds of music here.
    • Belfast: For me, the best bar on Bilbao Street by far. They play all sorts of music; Reggaeton, salsa and music in Basque. Including the hit of the year "Aldapan gora". The perfect place to try a patxaran, the typical drink of the Basque Country.
    • Arkaizpe: the bar here will always be open and at night, it will feel more like a club. it's was always a good place to start the party.
    • Iguana: definitely a good place for meeting up with other Erasmus students, but with a more relaxed atmosphere. Here you'll drink the best, and cheapest, mojitos in all of Donosti.
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    • Molly Malone: For the Erasmus people this is the bar to meet up in, perhaps because of how close it is to Bataplán, for karaoke Thursdays, for the music they play, for setting us up for a night of partying.
    • Bataplán: a club that brings lots of students together every Thursday, both San Sebastián natives and Erasmus, to dance to all the trendy music. Every Saturday you'll have a new DJ that'll get your night started with their music. Not to mention that there are several types of parties in Bata so any day would be a good day to go. Furthermore, it has the best location: right in front of the sea, almost in the middle of the La Concha Bay.

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    • Dabadaba: a disco a little more underground, with different types music. But it definitely has everything needed to make Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights the best. It also has a beautiful entrance; It's a corridor that has different paintings all along its walls.
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    • Victoria Eugenia: free entry on Fridays, so that makes it a great day to go here to dance.
    • Gu: this club is more fancy, for want of a better word. It's also a great place to watch the sunset in the evenings. You can watch the spectacle with a glass of wine.

    Antiguo

    • Platero: They serve good pints here (honestly the beers here are delicious). Whether it's pintxo-pote or not, Platero is always a good choice.
    • Doka: the "antiguo" part of the city is the best place for student nightlife. Although there'smore of a Basque vibe in Calle Bilbao. There such a broad array of music to dance to here, since they play things from bachata to music you could never imagine dancing to.

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Traditional fiestas and festivals

“Drums, trikitixas and txalapartas are the voice of Donostia (1), they're heard in the Basque parties that we so enjoy; but also through the music that accompanied us on every night out as we danced. You can hear its voice in the Basque language(2), that unique tongue we tried to learn, which is laced with so much history. You can hear its voice in the many familiar voices all sharing stories, even though they aren't shared in just one language(3). It is even heard in the silence of a new day. ”

  1. You'll find that Basque culture to be beautiful, and musically speaking, it has a lot to offer. Traditional Basque music has a beautiful, unique rhythm and is usually cheerful, perfect for dancing a good aurresku. But the 20th of January is a day that without doubt will be full of music.
    • La Tamborrada/San Sebastián (20 Jan): As the name suggests, drums will be heard singing innings 24 hours a day. You'll probably know that typically Basque song “Sebastian bat bada zeruan Donosti bat bakarra munduan hura da santua ta hau da herria horra zer den gure Donostia”. You can admire Constitution Square while it's completely packed with people and drink typical Basque drinks without a care in the world. This is without doubt one of the best festivities in Donostia, but we can't forget the other San Sebastian festivities.
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    • Santo Tomás (Dec 21): this is a fair that transforms Donostia into a market. Here you can drink cider until you burst, eat delicious txistorra, meet a giant pig, and see a usually quiet city bursting with people and empty bottles of cider.
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    • Aste Nagusia/Semana Grande (11-19 Aug): without a doubt one of the busiest weeks in Donostia. Every day is filled with a busy schedule of events. Initiated by the gunner of the major gunner. Thanks to the pyrotecnic competition, you can enjoy a fireworks show that will illuminate the city every night.
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      Fuente

    Speaking of fiestas, we can't forget the festivals here. Some of the most well known ones are:

    • Zinamaldia (16-24 Sep): this is an incredible festival of cinema. During this time, different parts of the city are transformed into cinemas and offer a broad array of films. Although I didn't have the money to attend the big events, I was able to see some red carpets and without expecting it, I met one of my favorite actors: Joseph Gordon-Levitt. I got to see a movie in the spectacular Kursaal. I definitely saw that movie at exactly the right time: "I started crying beforehand, then I heard half of the room crying, and so I cried freely. " The movie was "A monster calls".
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    • Jazzaldia (20-25 Jul): this is a fabulous jazz music festival. Five days of jazz music on various stages throughout the city. Heineken's green stage, in the Zurriola was my favorite. What more could you ask for? Good music, the beach and a view of Kursaal's lights and the sound of the sea waves.

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    The language

  2. One of the things that stood out to me most - and one of the things I loved most - was the language that is spoken in Euskal Herria (apart from French and Spanish): Basque. To begin with, instead of hearing people say goodbye to each other with a simple "adiós", "hasta luego" or "bye" (because the basque word for "yes", "bai", has exactly the same pronunciation) you hear a beautifully melodic "agur". A word which will seem strange to begin with, but after a while it'll be part of your daily vocabulary (yes, even when you're in a country where hardly anyone speaks Basque, you're brain will still make an "agur" slip from your mouth when you bid someone farewell).

    I was just surprised by the uniqueness of Basque. I loved listening in on conversations, reading ads on the street, listening to Basque music and being able to pick out familiar words. It was a beautiful feeling when you understood the meaning of a word and it all made sense when you related it back to the context where you had first seen the word, or even in a compound word. I fell so deeply in love with this language that while I was in Donostia I took classes, and even now I'm back in Mexico I am still learning it.

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  3. Donostia can't deny that it's a top tourist destination. As of April, the city starts to fill with tourists and Spanish will be the language you hear least on the streets. Although you can see a considerable amount of Erasmus students (considering the size of the city) from all over the world throughout the year, Italians, Germans and Mexicans without doubt take the prize for the highest numbers. But language is the least important thing, the stories are what really matter.

The flavours

Every moment in Donostia has a different flavour, it could be the weet taste of ice-cream(1) and Milka chocolate(2) that we used to eat, but it can also be the taste of the nicest philladelphia cheese burgers(3) or a tasty txaka tortilla sandwich(4) how could you not get a pintxo(5) during pintxo-pote which we went to every Thursday. "

  1. The best ice-creams in the world aren't found in Italy, they're found in Donostia. Honestly, one of the things I miss most are the delicious ice-creams that we would eat even when it was cold outside (while the ice-cream parlours were still open, they tended to shut over winter). And there isn't just one ice-cream parlour, there are lots which offer different ice-creams, all with an exquisite taste. For me, the best ones were:
    • Boulevard: Definitely one of my favourites. The ice-creams are so creamy. My combination of raspberry/chocolate and cream and forest fruits rarely ever changed because I was so in love with it, but even when I changed flavours those ice-creams were life.
    • Oiartzun: these are also delicious and an option that can't be beat if you like fruit. Less creamy and more fresh for those summer days.

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  2. I had never realised how much I like chocolate until I found Milka chocolates, because although they are very common in Europe, they aren't in Latin America. There was no greater pleasure than enjoying a rich tablet, whether watching series or the sunset.
  3. Although we didn't usually eat out much for money saving reasons (even though many times we gave into the temptation of Dominos and the delicious kebaps "eat and drink"). Since we came across Bideluze, once a month, we had the pleasure of eating a philadelphia cheese burger with tomato and caramelized onion (number 14 on the menu). Although there's a wide variety of hamburgers, sandwiches, etc. As in ice cream, I couldn't resist asking for the same thing every time.

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  4. And to cure that insatiable hunger during class there was nothing better that a rich tortilla sandwich with txaka which you culd buy from the bar right next to the school, Bar Campus.

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  5. It was Thursday, and that meant it was pintxo-pote. At first I thought this was a single bar, but it turned out it was whatthey called the night where you paid € 2,00 for a pintxo and a pote (any drink; be it beer, wine, cider, sangria, etc. ) Ever since we found out about pintxo-pote, it was very rare that we ever missed going out for it of a Thursday (it was mainly held in Gros).

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    • Viura II: I always asked for a tasty pintxo comprising of caramelized goat cheese with serrano ham here.
    • Kelly's: If you arrive early you'll have an amazing variety of pintxos, including their small but tasty portion of paella that you can order as a pintxo, accompanied by a glass of lambrusco.
    • Utxori-bi: next to my favorite supermarket (Lidl). It has the best mini burgers of all time, which used to be accompanied by beer or white wine.

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    • B seven: this is probably where I found my favorite pintxo (which almost all my friends hated). Croissant dough baby bread, with txaka inside. Simply delicious as far as I'm concerned.

    And then we come to the pinnacle of pintxo-pote: Calle Zabaleta.

    • La Gaviota Bar (we called it: the potato bar): they have loads of pintxos here and, of course, delicious portions of potatoes. They have bravas (which for a Mexican, aren't that spicy), with alioli or with herbs (I don't really know what herbs exactly) They tasted delicious. This place only has one disadvantage: it is always very crowded.
    • The bar next to La Gaviota (sorry, I never knew the name of the pintxo-pot bars we were going to, in fact, I was looking for the names of the bars I've mentioned beforehand on google maps): here they mainly sell desserts, but they're still part of pintxo-pote. The red velvet cake is delicious, as are the brownies.

    Speaking of desserts and food... I have to talk about the following places, even if they're not part of pintxo-pote.

    • Antojitos: also in Gros, very close to the Zurriola. They sell the most delicious cakes, from cheescakes to red velvets and chocolatosos. Me and friends saw it one night when we were coming home from a night out, we had a craving for something sweet but obviously it was shut at the time. One day we decided to go there when it was open, and we never regretted it.

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    • Belgrade: this is a cafe that offers a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere, with a beautiful view from its windows. A hot coffee and a delicious cake were always good on cold days or even on days were we met to do class work.
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    • Québec Krep'Herria: found in the Parte Vieja, this creperie is a great place to go if you fancy something sweet and delicious. Aside from crepes they sell waffles and delicious milkshakes.
    • La Mejillonería: changing from desserts to mussel dishes, in my case to the best white potatoes in Donostia; a combination of two simply succulent sauces and they taste even better accompanied by a good sangria. And another great one is the bocata a la brava.
    • It was fortunate that during my first few days in Donostia, when I still had no fixed housing, my landlord at my temporary accommodation (Pensión Aries, I really recommend it for its location, comfort, price, service and its amazing customer service) found me and my friend walking through the streets of Parte Vieja with rumbling stomachs, and took us to La Mejillonería.

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    • Juantxo taberna: The best sandwiches are the tortillas with txaka, serrano ham or squid. They're so delicious, huge and very filling.
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    • Kizkurra: Delicious sandwiches, really delicious. Sadly I found out about it too late, even though it was very close to my apartment.

The colours

"Donostia looks blue (1) , a deep blue, because the water always stays quiet and calm, reflecting all the hues of a sun-kissed day, of the sunsets I enjoyed, (2) or the rainy days I savoured, when I wrapped myself up or got absolutely soaked. (3) . At every sunrise and sunset Donostia seemed to shine (4) . It looks green because every time I climbed one of its mountains (5) I could feel in touch with nature. Donostia looks brown because of those rusty steel sculptures (6) that I looked at every day, peacefully. ”

  1. If Donostia were summed up in one color, that color would be blue. And not only for its sea, but for its flag, its shield, its team.

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  2. A conscious or unconscious ritual of everyone who lives in Donostia is to watch the sunset. And in all my life I have not seen sunsets more beautiful than those I saw in this beautiful city. Even in winter the colors were noticeable.

    For us the quintessential point to enjoy the sunset was Sagües, that final area of ​​the Zurriola, at the foot of the Ulia, which Few tourists arrive.

    The wall at the edge of the beach is full of people who yearn to see the end of the day, determined by the disappearance of the sun. This one is hiding behind a horizon of the sea. At one time of the year the sun is hidden right next to the Urgull, but being the time that is, in the Zurriola the sea, leaving traces of water that serve of reflection, to be able to double appreciate the spectacle that the sun offers us.

    An activity that is so daily for me in Mexico City, in Donostia, I did what I did, tried to appreciate it, even if I was running after my ballet class; because it meant so much to me every sunset: one more day was over and therefore it was one less day in that beautiful city, but at the same time the night began and it was another opportunity to enjoy it.

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  3. As I said before, it rains a lot in Donostia. Because of this, you'll start to appreciate the rain whether you're seeing it from behind the window or getting soaked through having decided to venture out in the wet.
  4. Anyone who has not appreciated a sunrise or sunset in Donostia will not understand what I'm talking about, because the sun really makes the city come alive, it makes it shine, and it lets all those warm colors come to life. Even a photograph can not make you appreciate how magnificent the city looks in the sun.

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The mountains

Just as the beaches are a symbol of Donostia, so too are its mountains.

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  • Monte Ulia: this is my favorite mountain in particular. Although it isn't possible to see the Concha at all like you can from Igueldo, it has beautiful views of Zurriola and the Kursaal. But mainly because it is more natural than the other two mountains and because you really have to go “aldapan gora” (uphill) to reach the top and of course to complete the Ulia-Pasaia route, (I would have happily done that more than twice). The views towards the open sea, the tonalities of the water on the edge of the rocks, the same rocks with light tones, the intense green, the abandoned aqueducts in the middle of nature, get to see the Faro de la Plata and finally the rest with views towards Pasaia, simply unique. Definitely tour Pasaia after this tour is mandatory.
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  • Mount Urgull: This mountain has several ways to reach its tip; from the stairs of San Telmo, from the streets behind Santa María, from the stairs of the Aquarium, and still several paths to follow. Reaching the tip where the Sacred Heart of Jesus rises, allows you to see the entire Shell and on the other side the Zurriola.

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  • Santa Clara Island: considering it's so small you can find some amazing places here. It allows you to get other views of Donosti; between rocks that frame the view towards the open sea and the shore, see Ondarreta and the Concha in front, and the Peine del Viento on the side. It has benches to have a lunch or just to rest. On the less built side there are many seagulls and you probably have to prevent their needs from falling on you.
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  • Monte Igueldo: For me it is the one with the best views of all of Donostia, because you can simply appreciate it in its entirety. Apart from these views, it has a Funicular, which takes you from the slopes of the mountain to the entrance of the Amusement Park, and although you can walk up, the funicular It is typical in Donostia. The Amusement Park, has games for children and for adults the mysterious river and the Swiss mountain are the best known. Same is the Torreón the point where you can see both sides of the mountain; the city side and the wild side, even more natural.
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Art

Part of the Donostiarra culture influenced wonderful sculptors such as Chillida and Oteiza. These two sculptors gave Donostia two more iconic features:

  • Peine del Viento : Donostia's most emblematic sculpture is made up of three huge pieces of Corten steel, but more than its materiality is the way they frame the sea and its movement. It is definitely one of my favorite places in the city, because you just isolate yourself from it, you feel that you and the sea are only. This sculpture can be enjoyed on a day of low tide, to reach the rocks that are under the sculpture, on a day of intense waves where the sculptures apart from combing the wind comb the waves, on a sunrise to see the sun rise from Urgull or in the evening to appreciate the shades of the sky blurred to the contrast of the sculpture.
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  • The Empty Construction : the second emblematic sculpture retains the same materiality as the Comb (corten steel) and the way in which the color of this material frames the blue of the sea and the sky, it is incredible.

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  • La paloma de la paz: the third sculpture breaks with the color and the sense of frame, the dove is more of a milestone which marks the end of the Sagüés road the tip of Ulia and is lucky enough to bare witness to all the magnificent sunsets.

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  • Speaking of art in the city, Miramart is a recent intervention in the tunnel of Miramar. It conveys a feeling of being underwater and at night has lights that enliven the colors, really beautiful.

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  • Similarly, an art form is the architecture made in the intervention of the old tobacco factory, currently Tabakalera. Free and magnificent space for the approach to art and culture, since it has several spaces such as a library, exhibition hall, but my favorite place without a doubt is its terrace, which allows you to see the city feeling the air in your face.

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“Donostia feels like a home (1) strong, even being thousands of miles from my family, Donostia, I was welcomed every time I arrived to travel. "

  1. Before leaving home, I never thought that a place could feel as yours as I feel Donostia of mine. Every time I traveled I had a huge desire to return, and when I arrived I felt an inner peace, seeing those bridges crossing the Urumea, with its beautiful streetlights characteristic of the city, made me say: “I have reached House. ”After resting from the trips, it was mandatory to check out the sunset and simply feel that there was no other place on earth where I wanted to be, more than there.

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“Donostia has made me smile, because I have met beautiful people who are still from far away, now they are close, they are the family I chose (1). ”

  1. Like my concept of home, my concept of friendship changed after Donostia. I never believed that such strong ties were formed in a short time, but during my year of Erasmus I lived things that I had done in my life, and it is those moments that link you forever to your friends. I give infinite thanks to each one of those people I met throughout my stay in Donostia, because each one put seeds in me and they grow as affection and affection. Thank you for each talk, for each game, for each trip, for each class, for each dance, for each party, for each night, for each moment lived.

    Many times I said that Donostia could be described as mount (Igueldo), sculpture (Peine del Viento), beach (Ondarreta), island (Santa Clara), beach (La Concha), sculpture (Empty Construction ), mount (Urgull), beach (Zurriola), sculpture (Dove of Peace), mount (Ulia); but I am very clear that that says nothing, I am still aware that with more than 2,000 characters it could not contain the true essence of Donostia.

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    Donostia has to live, to be able to capture his best moments, but you will never have the words to describe this beautiful city.

“Donostia is sea, it is the mountain, it is the beach, it is the city, it is the culture... it is my place in the world. "

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I fell in love with Donostia after my year the city. When I left Mexico, I was sure I was going to come back. When I left Donostia, my return is somewhat uncertain, but I will do my best to return to that beautiful place.

Donostia da nirea... laster arte!

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