Experience in Riga, Latvia

Why did you choose to go to Riga, Latvia?

I wanted to exchange in a country very different from France, but not fond of paperwork I also wanted to stay in the European Union. Eastern Europe soon came to be seen as the most viable, especially since the cost of living is lower than in France. As a finance student, I looked for schools that had a partnership in Eastern Europe with my school. There was only one, in Riga. So I decided to go to Riga without knowing much about the country!

How long is your stay? What is the amount of aid you receive?

My stay lasted 5 months, the second semester, from the end of January to the end of June. Personally I received 160 €/month of Erasmus scholarships divided into 2 deposits. 80% at the beginning of the stay in February and the remaining 20% when I came back to France in September or October.

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Would you recommend the city and the university of Riga to other students?

Yes, absolutely. The city is beautiful and just perfect for an Erasmus. Concerning the university, I was in Banku Augstskola, a small business school. We were only a small group of Erasmus, about twenty, but that allowed us to be very united. In addition, all classes were taught in small groups of up to 30 people, and we sometimes did group work with Latvians, which is great for meeting local people. The welcome from the university was very good, they put in place a godmother/godfather system (my godfather who spoke French came to pick me up when I arrived at the airport at 11pm! ), organized a visit of the city, an integration party and for the end of the semester a meal in the restaurant paid by them!

How is food in this country?

This is what I missed the most... As in most cold countries it's a very rich cuisine. But the food is not very varied (potato and chicken most of the time). It is possible to find French products but not necessarily the best and they are quite expensive. It is possible to eat properly by cooking yourself because you find everything in the supermarkets but not being very passionate about cooking...

Have you had difficulty finding accommodation in Riga?

No, because I was sleeping in the school's dorms, so I just needed to fill out a form. But I have friends who have rented an apartment in the city center, it is not necessarily complicated to find, but it is not given, an apartment in the old town is almost as expensive as an apartment in a city like Bordeaux or Toulouse (between 250€ and 450€ per person in a apartment-sharing), knowing that there is no Personalised Housing Allowance (PHA) and the heating bills in winter can be very expensive!

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What is the cost of living in Riga?

Contrary to what we might think, living in Riga costs almost as much as in France. Accommodation in the city center is between 250€ and 450€ per month (it is always possible to live far from the center and pay less), the daily shopping cost about the same and the clothes are more expensive than in France. Only cigarettes and alcohol are cheaper. For a pint of beer in a bar, it takes between 1. 50€ and 2. 50€. Transportation is also cheaper (17€ for a monthly subscription to the tram, bus, trolleybus for students). For long distances there are buses (20€ round trip Riga-Tallinn with Ecolines) or train (cheap but not very comfortable and very slow). And regarding taxis, there is Panda Taxi, as the buses stop around midnight or 1 am, very useful to get back from a party. And by taking it in group or 2 or 3 people it will not cost more than 1€ per person for a 10 or 15 minutes ride!

How is learning the language? Have you been to language courses organized by the university?

My university offered a free Latvian course, which could be used to validate ECTS, but I did not choose it. I did not try to learn the language except a few basic words. It is very difficult and there is nobody in Latvia who only speaks Latvian, everybody speaks at least English or Russian in addition to Latvian. In the center of Riga and almost all young people speak English, so it is very easy to communicate, no need to worry at this level there.

What is the most economical way to get to Riga from your city?

I live near Toulouse and apart from Paris, there are no direct flights from France to Latvia. For the outward flight I took Ryanair from Carcassonne to London, then London-Riga. On the way back I went through Dublin rather than London.

What places would you recommend to party in Riga?

To start the evening, any bar in the old town, the French Bar being the cheapest and one of the most popular for the Erasmus. There is the Funny Fox for those who love karaoke, De Puta Madre for shooters, etc. Regarding the nightclubs, there is the First (closed in winter), the Just Club, La Rocca, Coyote Fly. On the other hand, it is necessary to know that in Latvia in certain nightclubs and certain days of the week it is impossible for foreigners to enter if they are not accompanied by Latvians, unless pay several hundred euros to reserve a table...

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And to eat in Riga? What are your favorite places?

There is a good pizzeria, on Kalku Iela, Il Patio, a very good Latvian restaurant which I can not remember the name, with a medieval decor at the entrance; Ala Bar, typically Latvian, very good, incredible atmosphere and really cheap. There are also many "canteens" in the city center, where it is possible to eat for a reasonable price. But the "restaurant" where I have eaten the most often is McDonald's, ideally located at the entrance of the old town where taxis drop us off and take us back for the evenings, open almost 24 hours a day, it is impossible to resist...

And what cultural visits do you recommend?

Riga is renowned for its Art-Nouveau architecture, just walk through the old town and the surrounding area to see some beautiful buildings. The Liberty Monument, Occupation Museum, Mezapark, Alberta Iela, Central Market, 7-Moscow-sisters style Soviet Tour and for a great view, have a drink at the Skybar, at the top of the Radisson Tower.

Would you like to give further advice to future Erasmus students in Riga?

You have to know that Latvians are not very warm at first, you have to get to know them so that they open, but they are very friendly people. I advise you to take advantage of your stay and visit other cities of Latvia as well as neighboring countries like Estonia, Lithuania, Russia... Enjoy your stay there, you will love it!