Day 24 | Dojo-ji & Inunakiyama Onsen

Hey guys! Here comes another day from Japan this time about the unique experience of ascetic practising at the waterfall in the mountains near Inunakiyama Onsen (hot springs) hotel and earlier that day visiting the famous Dojo-ji temple in my old neighbourhood - Gobo town.

This was a pretty long day too with lots of travelling, surprises and fun. I think most of my fellow campers would agree with me that this was one of the best days in Japan. Honestly, I do not know what to say as every day there was unique and for all of us something new and different, much more than what we are used to at home in our countries and cultures.

For those of you who have not read all the posts I wrote about travelling in Japan here is one detailed article on Dojo-ji temple. And as you might have noticed I have not been writing chronologically as I did not have all the material so I hope you are not going to be confused.

I would also add a big thanks to my friend Jesse Tucek who photographed a lot while my camera betrayed me and gave me permission to share it with you. The same goes for Miori Inoue.

Ready?

Day before at Shirahama White Beach

On the 23rd of July our journey brought us to Shirahama town. If Shirahama rings in your ears with a familiar sound everything is okay because I indeed went once to Shirahama with my host family. Though we came only for the rock formations and cliffs (Sandanbeki) which are few kilometers behind this bay you see on the photo. More about Shirahama Cliffs and Pirate center can be found here.

We came in the morning after spending a very interesting night with giant spiders in our rooms at one traditional hotel. After leaving our stuff here at Shirahama Seaside Hotel we had a plan to go for a swim in the ocean. We spent there 2-3 hours and had lots of fun enjoying the sand on Shirahama White Beach which is one of the most beautiful and famous beaches in Japan (they say). And the sand is imported from Australia! Besides enjoying the big waves and getting sunburned (yes, I forgot the sun-cream... ) we enjoyed some sports activities and eating the watermelons.

After lunch in this much bigger and western-orientated hotel we had an hour or two of freedom before the dinner. After dinner we went back to the beach, now during the night, and enjoyed the huge fireworks organised by the Lions Club. This was also a special night for me though I was not that much aware of it due to language barriers. We came then directly to the hotel into a large room or a hall where we had karaoke night organised with lots of snacks and drinks. These were two crazy hours!

But more about this day and what one can learn and see in the special post.

Leaving for Gobo (surprise trip)

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(This is the route for the whole day including Shirahama-Gobo till the lunch break at Izumisano and lastly arriving to Inunakiyama).

Getting up around 7 a. m. after sleeping in the traditional room with mattresses. It was pretty comfortable and everyone got used to them days earlier so it was no big deal. We even had a rotating TV (never seen them before) and a little table where one was supposed to sit with their legs crossed.

After having breakfast with Japanese kitchen and lots of ice-cream and drinks as a part of the buffet we went to pack our stuff and bring everything down to the lobby of the hotel. If I remember you can also find an improvised market or a few stores within the hotel selling clothing mostly.

And here comes the part that made me probably the happiest person in the bus. The plan was to go to this Inunakiyama and on our way there to have a lunch somewhere near it (at the place called Izumisano). However, after a while I started noticing a familiar landscape and my doubts whether I was hallucinating or not, as there was a sign for Dojo-ji temple few kilometres away, disappeared once I noticed the title Gobo and Hidaka. The excitement was bigger as not even many of the camp leaders and assistants knew where we were going. Yet I knew. I had heard of this plan even before going to the camp though it was not written in the camp programme.

Entering the valley of a smaller town surrounded by the mountains and along the river Hidaka we soon passed through the familiar road. Unfortunately, I was expecting the bus to stop in front of my restaurant Anchin at the parking lot for the tourists so I could quickly greet my friends there. Instead we went up the hill and parked there. I saw Ishikura-san and greeted him with "yo" and the bro-shake (whereas the others had kept it formal). And then we headed towards the main yard of the temple to meet Mr Ono.

The grand tour around Dojo-ji

As you can guess I felt like being here already one hundred times. We went to the first building and met Mr Ono at the entrance. We greeted each other again informally and I knew what to expect.

I will not describe here much as you can find it in my other article. We left our shoes in the plastic bags and walked throughout the place in socks.

The hall with the Japanese National treasure & Story of Anchin and Kiyohime on picture scroll

Mr Ono first led us into the big hall with the statues; a few of them belong to the National treasure of Japan. One of this includes the very old sculpture of Kaanon of Thousand hands. We were allowed again to take some photos and I used the chance to document what I had missed earlier (though planned to go again later).

We were then introduced to the story of Kaanon and the Long-haired Princess. Mr Ono stood at some kind of a pulpit and did his job perfect again by using lots of humour. As I said he is able to speak a very good and fluent English so everyone enjoyed listening to him. He was not chosen as the favourite priest we have met in Japan and the favourite storyteller just randomly. And everyone was listening to him which is usually difficult with a group of young people.

After being done with the hall of statues we headed to listen to the story of Anchin and Kiyohime. We sat again on the floor and enjoyed the story on the picture story scroll. Afterwards we had a chance to have a look at the objects in the hall.

In the yard and inside the shrine

Shortly after the story was done we took our shoes back and left outside on the yard. We headed to the building in the centre which was actually a shrine. If you remember this was the place where I learned the procedure how to behave when facing this kind of a temple.

I went towards the red gates and the entrance above the stairs, bowed twice as mom Mieko Ishikura had taught me and then went to wash my hands before going to the shrine. Afterwards you pass over the small bridge following the road of tiles and by the four columns. These stone columns or kind of statues look pretty similar or the same at almost all the Buddhist temples and pathways I have encountered in Japan. Wait for the photos further in the text when we reach Inunakiyama.

Mr Ono led onto the stairs in front of the shrine (look above) and then told us a few more stories regarding the place. Now came the part when he said we were going to go behind and enter the building. This was new to me. We left again the shoes on the stairs of the temple and went behind. There he spoke of some ceremony that is being held here every year or every few years and that we should come for the next one in 2016. Apparently the whole yard of Dojo-ji is filled with visitors.

After the big tour around Dojo-ji was done we still had about 5 minutes left before leaving for the bus. I was a bit nervous as I planned to go visit my friends down at the restaurant. I talked to Mr Ishikura and hoped he understood me. Then I jumped through the orange gates (above) and started running down the stairs and through the street till I reached within a minute the restaurant.

It was a surprise for my friends and colleagues there and then had to wait for the bus. The bus picked me up in front of the restaurant and we were also given the freshly baked Manju Bell cookie. I greeted my host family and friends and jumped back in the bus fully satisfied with the beginning of the day.

Going for the lunch at Izumisano

It took us less than an hour to reach the part of Osaka prefecture called Izumisano. It is relatively large town or the are, however, I do not remember much of it. After all we just stopped there because of the lunch organised by Lions Club Izumisano Chuo.

We spent about an hour at this restaurant. It was this kind of a restaurant where you had the options to both sit with your legs crossed, to sit on the chairs (and that was the case with us) or to sit in a hole in the ground which is kind of an integrated chair into the floor. We took of our shoes right after entering it. The meal here was pretty delicious too! We got lunch in the wooden boxes with many little cases in it filled with salad, sauce, different kind of meat, rice and few other small things.

Later on we took a photograph in front of the restaurant and jumped back into the bus now heading for our final destination today.

Welcome to Inunakiyama Onsen: a hot spring hotel in the mountains

It took us about 30 minutes to reach the hotel. We went into the hills and mountains, into the greenery. And what surprised us on both our way there and back is that it is really not far away from the town and "the civilisation" though seems totally opposite.

The Lobby

We stopped by one hotel and left the bus in front of the entrance. There is also a parking lot close by. I could not see the whole building but it seemed huge. And what I learned from previous experience there are always some hidden paths or stairs to the basement where you discover another huge part of the hotel. You will most likely find there the huge shower rooms.

Once we enter the lobby I noticed first the taxidermy animals exhibited in some vitrines. Further on you enter the biggest part of the lobby which is pretty spacious with the chairs and sofas in the middle. In one corner one can find a place with a relatively big children playground where the most popular toy was the horse robot where you can control the speed and rotation. You can guess we spent quite a time having fun with it later.

You will find here the reception and a small bar to get something to drink or eat (mostly ice cream). To your right is the hallways that leads to the shower rooms for both males and females (separated of course). In front of you, behind the tables and sofas, you will see the nature through the glass of the windows. There is a river running right behind the house and not rarely is it the case people go for a bath there... and the hot spring are close by. To our left is where our rooms are.

The rooms

The sleeping rooms were quite big but meant for more people, at least in our case. There was a smaller table again and about 5-6 sleeping mattresses on the floor. Without much equipment these rooms belonged as well to the more traditional type of the hotel. In each corner of the room you will find a basket with kimonos and towels for shower. We were going to use them in the evening. What I found here great was that the rooms also had the large glass-transparent windows where one can enjoy the greenery and in the evening the night scenery.

After making ourselves "like at home" we went to check the other rooms. Thus I found out that the next one had also a karaoke device, the whole equipment!

We gathered shortly after back in the lobby and waited to move forward. The camp leaders warned us that while going to this shrine and the spot of the ritual we had to climb up the mountain and that it could be pretty cold thus advising us to take the jeans rather than shorts. I listened to them along with many of my friends. In the end I almost died in it, felt like walking in a diving suit on at least +20 ºC.

Climbing up the mountain path

It might have taken us about 40-50 minutes to reach the final destination and I have to say that the whole path here and the climbing were pretty much like in the movies again, it was certainly "very Japanese" when you look at the architecture or the objects on our way plus the landscape.

I took a photo of the map for the whole terrain which includes the route from the hotel till the waterfall at the end. The map can be found though on half of your way up.

You will first have to follow one road that goes from behind the parking lot and a bridge over the river and then starts climbing up. It is about 3-4 minutes away from the hotel. Another thing I noticed is that many families and groups came and settled under the bridge as there is kind of an improvised beach. It looked a bit strange at first and I was curious whether they were going to throw away the garbage into the nature.

This pathway into the mountains was right there behind the bridge and was following the river (or rather a creek now). Throughout the whole journey to the top there were more or less some objects aside. Here you can see that everything looked obviously made by man with the characteristic columns made from stone as well as the "fence" or rather walls with engraved signs.

Some parts of this road are a bit blurry now in my memories as it was pretty diverse and we had been to similar places. I will try to stick to the details you can also see on the photographs.

What characterised the road was going over the creek left and right for plenty of time. The bridges were of course in red colours. Some of them were just horizontal and flat but at this place you are sure to go across those in the shape of an arch which from far away and without passengers over them look like from some artistic comic book.

Further on you come across some spots that have more of those columns and other religious artefacts I did not understand.

Sometimes there were also some little shrines (looking like small cottages in the forest) that just made the whole trip a bit more dynamic.

And that kind of the shrines can be found elsewhere too. Though we never stopped by them.

The first bigger shrine place

After some 15-20 minutes of climbing we reached lots of gates and more narrow paths surrounded with walls and red flags. There we decided to take a break about 10 minutes long and check the area.

The entrance to this place (What you see above) is surrounded with two rows of the stone columns on many sides and you had to pass through them like through a labyrinth. At each side of the entrance there is a small wooden tower with two sides of the roof, typical for many temples in the area.

Once you enter the yard you will find to your right side an enclosed place (roof only) where you can sit and take a rest (that's what we did). If you stand in the middle on the path you will be right in front of the big statue of Buddha. On the left side was something of not much importance to us, maybe some kind of a store with religious items.

While sitting back under this roof there came a giant wasp and scared the p**p out of everyone!

Time to move on. We had now about 10-15 more minutes until reaching the last building and the end of our route.

Reaching the destination for the ritual

We started getting out of the labyrinth of the walls until finding the right path that led us forward. You will have a chance again here to enjoy the scenery of hundreds of stone tiles that formed the walls on each side of the path.

Somewhere around this area you can also find the map of the pathway and the temples. By the way, the name of the temple and the torii you can see above is Shippōryū-ji Temple.

Not far away from the red torii (above) there was another big gate and then we were sure to be close to our last stop.

There were several more wooden houses or shrines around this huge portal and followed next was much more dynamic space with more stone, handmade and honed stairs climbing up. You could tell it that something important was close by.

What characterised this road were now many red columns with "a little house" on its top. At first it would remind you of the wooden houses for the birds many of us built in the childhood but it had here some other purpose I believe.

At the beginning of the stairs there was a gray torii that looked like being there for thousands of years, already blended into the landscape. Another spot where you would expect Samurai Jack to pop up.

This is what it looks like from behind the stairs. Somehow I felt under pressure or... pressed here as all of sudden too many things got too close to each other and make you feel like going through the street in the urban area.

After 3-5 minutes more of climbing up the stairs you will reach the big house on the slopes of the mountain where the road leads to.

Getting ready for the show

There are several houses on this huge platform actually. We waited for the others form the group at the first house which also served as a kind of a souvenir store.

Once together we went following the guy in the gray suit (check the photo) who spoke only in Japanese and we had our translators. He introduced us a bit to the ascetic practice that we were going to do. They also asked us whether it was okay with our faith and religion to participate here. I believe no one had any problems with that. In my case there were no problems and I joked God gave me visa for a month to do whatever I want. There was no way of course I was going to miss this and while staying in Japan I just wanted to try as many things as possible.

Our guide here gathered us all around in front of him and his wife who then both started to play some instruments. I was right in front of them when someone next to me had to control their laugh. The sound of the instrument during the play was indeed a bit...new.... and sounded a bit funny. After surviving it and listening to the translation we found out we were going to be given now the white clothing. Something like a white dress with a white belt (scarf) already integrated in it. Thus we had to change our clothes and then prepare for the ritual.

As soon as everyone got the white dress and the towel we left this building now by walking around the corner of the platform trying to look over the fence and the creek to this mysterious location but could not see anything yet.

The road down to the waterfall

After leaving this first building we passed through another small portal and soon found ourselves next to many of smaller statues of Buddha. The road here now went down the hill a bit and we were now close to the creek.

Few minutes later and we got to our destination right behind one edge. And there is this cool view towards the scenery. What we had seen was the red house (never entered it) and behind it a small "natural" yard and bridge in front of the waterfall and a small pond dividing the area in front of the house and the one on the other side where we were supposed to go for the ritual.

The ascetic practice at the waterfall

We had to go over the platform around the house. Everything here around me was in green, red and black colours. After leaving our backs in front of the building we were instructed to go change our clothes now. The girls had to go on the other side and on the first floor whereas we the males had to go beneath the platform on the rocks next to the creek.

This meant, of course, again being naked in front of the others but when you had already done that you just stop caring about the others. I quickly changed my clothes and was now full in white. We had tables on the cliffs too so we left our trousers, underwear, shirts and socks there. I also could not go under the waterfall with my glasses so I left them somewhere else.

Along with my Turkish friend who was also half blind without the glasses we waited with the other guys before crossing the bridge. This is what it looks like when standing in front of the building.

Right before the bridge there is some sort of tribute or a shrine to Buddha I believe. I did not notice it back then. On the other side there was also a smaller wooden "house" but we never used it during the ritual.

I was troubled by a few things here; the water seemed to be very cold and I did not want to have problems with "rushing to the restroom", I hope I was not going to fall while climbing the waterfall as I had no glasses and it would not be nice if my dress just "opened its doors"... and that the parts below our bodies were not going to be visible after the white clothing gets wet. Luckily, none of this happened and the dresses were of a good material.

The procedure was that we split up into several groups as about 6 people were up at the same time. We first watched some other Japanese guys climbing up and doing the ritual. One was supposed to stay 2-3 minutes under the cold waterfall and I was just thinking whether there was any way to survive it.

I was part of the second group when we all came over the bridge to the other side and saw with my eyes almost the same as on the photo above. I tried with my toe how cold was the water and it was just too cold. I already felt the need to go somewhere and pee. And then the first group started climbing. Everyone tried to follow their steps and hoped not to fall.

There was this priest already up there and holding a chain. There were actually about 5-6 chains tied somewhere above the waterfall and pretty long. The other guy was with us down there and held the other end of the chain. When we started climbing up they would tightened the chain so it was easier for you. You would have then to try to climb by using one hand for the rocks and the other one holding yourself for the chain. The height was not that big, about 2 and a half meters but was tricky as the cold water from the waterfall was pushing you back and it was pretty easy to slip away. I was scared I would not see something and then fall on my ass on the rocks behind me. You would end up in the pond and would not die, just got scratched.

Lukas had a small accident when trying to get up, he slipped away and fell on his back but nothing happened (and he is a tough guy).

Then our turn came. After I climbed up successfully the priest put us all into the line and asked to think of some wish. Then we had to put our hands (I think) into specific position and he started shouting something. I do not know what he was saying but he sounded angry. After the introduction comes the cold water. Literally. Every one of us had to take the chain and stay under the waterfall. I remember the feeling when you felt on your back "cold fists punching you" all the time. But after 2-3 minutes it became normal as we got used to the temperature. He was still shouting something now and then released us.

Though it lasted for about 5 minutes this was one of the best feelings. We all passed this ascetic practising. I got down carefully and without problems (oh yes, we were the whole time barefoot of course). After the last group of boys we exchanged the places with the girls and followed them from the other side.

After everyone was done we went back to our places to change the clothes and put the white dresses and the towels into the plastic bags. Time to leave for the hotel.

Back to the hotel

It took us about 40 minutes or less until we got back to our hotel. I spent my time mostly discussing with the others the thrill of being under the waterfall and then turned to other "important daily topics".

I tried to take some more photographs and pay more attention to the surroundings but without much success. It was much easier to go down the road and to observe the objects I already knew.

What I liked though was discovering the "hidden" or barely visible little sculptures of Buddha or some other religious figure which was sometimes covered with a red little patch or rags. I found out that the statues with the red clothing on them were mostly related to the death of children. They are then much more frequent on graveyards.

Free time & shower room

It was still a day, sunlight, when we came back and then had some free time before the dinner and country presentations later on. We had been mostly hanging around the lobby room playing some games and especially enjoyed the robot-horse.

The more interesting part was going to the shower room. And you know that Japan is a bit different story than in the West. I am not sure anymore whether we went to the shower room this evening (or afternoon) precisely as in the morning we had to leave early... but let me tell you what it looks like (not everything) and how one behaves.

What does typical bathroom and shower in the traditional hotels look like?

Do not expect photographs here as I had really no intentions to use the camera here. You can Google the Japanese hot springs for more results.

Today was my (and of almost all the other guys) second experience of going to the bathrooms to shower naked along with the other guys (or girls with girls). Since the first time was two days ago at the other traditional hotel where a few of went to break the ice, it was much easier going here. I also had to go through one bathroom the same day back in the morning in Shirahama Seaside Hotel as a few of my female friends asked me whether I could go to check in the male's bathrooms if they left their bags there. The evening before the same space was occupied by women and in the morning by men. I did not find their bag there... but was "lucky" to see the naked guy jumping around just as I was about to leave the room. Unfortunately I had glasses back then.

So, here comes the story! Many of the campers decided to go to use the shower room before dinner. We saw several of them walking in the kimonos towards the baths. Since it was only a matter of time when my turn would come I also decided to go as well as my other Mexican amigo. I went to the basket in the room to pick up the blue kimono and the towels, changed myself there while no one else was around and then waited for Juan.

After being ready we started walking through the lobby towards the bathroom in the other part of the hotel. I had the slippers of the hotel on my feet and felt like a boss. We came then to the doors of the bathrooms and entered it.

The first part of the bathrooms was a relatively bigger room, of a size of an average living room in the houses, that on the front wall had about 6-8 sinks and mirrors. After the bath one can also use the hair-dryers that are provided there in the boxes. And the boxes, both plastic and the wooden one are on the right side of the entrance. There are about 20-25 baskets at least where the guests can leave their kimonos and towels before leaving for the shower room. The shower room and the baths were separated by the half transparent glass doors that open left and right into and from the wall.

I was trying not to laugh as my Mexican friend was still not that keen on the idea of going for the shower with 20 more people. Besides, I was about to take off my glasses and do not need to worry much about the details whereas he had a perfect eye sight. Sometimes being blind is also of advantage! Well, time for me and amigo to get in. I left the stuff in the basket and moved into another space. The moment when you finally decide to take off the towel and walk like Adam freely around is when you just have to tell yourself "I do not give a sh*et". Then everything is much easier. The uncomfortable feel disappeared after two seconds as I was just thinking how funny all of this was, that I enjoy being blind and actually that I just came there simply to take a shower, nothing else.

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The shower room was pretty big and had at least one pool with the hot springs in the middle. To our left side was the wall with about 10 places to sit and take a shower. We both found some free spots. I do not remember whether I had to bring my own shampoo there or they kept something. After 3-5 minutes we left the space. There was hot water from the tube and lasted for about 15-20 seconds before you had to press it again.

I felt great and came out into the "laundry" room. Took my towel, put around and started looking for the hair dryer. Soon came my friend and we spent 10 more minutes there. I was totally fine with everything and did not care. You just have to try it and once you break the ice it becomes totally unimportant and simple. I believe all of you who have done that agree with me.

As we were about to leave the baths I started laughing again as my friend forgot something and had to go back through the naked guys.

All in all, there is nothing to be ashamed of as it is pretty natural thing. If you are in Japan do not hesitate to try this at least once. Everything else will seem much easier afterwards.

Dinner, country presentations and the night with the ants

We had dinner in the great hall where they prepared our tables and chairs in two long rows facing each other. There was about 3 meters at least between me and the guys on the other side.

What I liked here as well was having the large windows and being again right next to the nature. The first row with majority of my male squad was already filled and I went on the other side to hang out with the others for a change.

You get here pillow to sit on and a small table where the hotel staff was going to serve us individually. We already got something prepared on the tables, some boxes that were covered. We were waiting until everyone was ready in the hall and then started enjoying the meal. It consisted of salad, soup (and our hosts came individually to each of us to lit the candles beneath the soups), several sorts of meat and sauce.

We were also given free tea and... Coca-cola any time we wished for it.

As you can see I was having fun with my friends around and did not want to miss the opportunity to turn into Marvel's Wolverine for a few seconds.

One of the funny moments was when we heard one of the campers screaming. Our Estonian friend had a bit painful experience when the wasabi accidentally got stuck between her teeth. It was fun for everyone except for her. Even better, when she almost got it out it fell again between the teeth. I hope this never happens to any of you, wasabi is pretty strong. And as Mr Ishikura has always said (and I repeat and teach further the others) - you just put a bit of wasabi into the sauce first, mix a little bit and then take maguro (tuna fish) or anything else and slightly dip it into the sauce. Do not take a lot otherwise your throat and stomach are going to burn!

After having a good time during the dinner and felling really satisfied we prepared the hall for the presentation.

Country presentations

Half of the big hall was closed by the portable walls in the centre, we brought the projector, a laptop and everyone sat on the floor to watch the presentation. I really liked the atmosphere here and this was one pretty fun night and I have never laughed so much during the presentations as before. We listened to the presentations of Mexico by Juan, of Indonesia by Nisa (and had the opportunity to listen to their national instrument) and a pretty detailed presentation of Mongolia.

After the presentations were over we were debating whether we have enough time for a karaoke night or no... in the end no time. We went back to our rooms and then hang out a bit in the lobby. I learned there and forgot (but thus took a video of it) how to do the Indonesian elementary dance.. while sitting on the floor.

Having "fun" with ants

Time to go to sleep! I gave a few more of the Licitar hearts to my friends in the room and went into my sleeping bag. And then I noticed that the pillow and everything around on the floor was full of small ants. Not just mine part but of the others too. A moral dilemma came - whether to send them all to the next dimension with fists and spray or just leave them walk around....

After the area was cleaned of the majority of them (probably found a hole somewhere and got in from the yard behind the windows... and invaded our backpacks with food.. and my underwear too) we set the alarm for the morning and went to sleep.

And that is all folks! I hope you enjoyed the story and the photographs. The other day we went for the big Tenjin Matsuri Festival in Osaka where we spent the last night together as a part of the Lions Exchange.

As for Inunakiyama Onsen, it is really a magical place and despite some troubles such as ants (but who cares) this was another amazing day with lots of new experience and fun. The prices for this place can go up to 40-50 dollars per night so we were lucky to be all together as a group and within an organised trip, otherwise it might be difficult (for me) to get there.

Thanks for reading!

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