McLaren vale
South Australia has much to offer for the adventurous. Beautiful mountains and valleys for many hikers to take delight in, golden beaches and food from all over the world. However, one thing that makes this state particularly unique is the quality of its wineries. A specific winery we’ll be looking at today is McLaren Vale wineries.
McLaren Vale is located south of Adelaide in eyes view of the sea. The area is rich for wine growing and sports many different types of soils that allow many different types of wine. This allows a diversity of wines to be produced from this area alone. To name a few, this region produces Shiraz, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon blanc, Petit Verdot and many more.
Upon my travels to places such as Champagne in France, I realised that the great opportunity provided by wineries is not as unrestricted as in Adelaide. That is to say, it is completely free to go to many different wineries around Australia to enjoy free tastings to assure yourself that your choice of wine purchase will be the right one. Unfortunately, many places I’ve visited so far in areas such as Champagne require a mandatory fee payment for tasting. This could go as little as 30 euros. That is not to say they aren’t worth it. There are many great tours with food and Champagne included to satisfy you,
Regardless, wine tasting in South Australia is extremely popular between many, especially students and budget tourists due to its affordability. Mclaren Vale wineries are no exception. Which begins with my story,
A year ago I took a group of my exchange friends to McLaren Vale before they returned home. From Adelaide, it is very straightforward reach McLaren Vale, unlike other wineries such as Barossa where the only way you’ll get there is through a shuttle bus or car. With Mclaren Vale you’ll simply need a 1.5-3 AUD ticket to get there.
A group of mates and I awoke early and met inside the Adelaide train station at around 10:45 AM. We were fortunate as there was nothing but blue skies with a few small lonely clouds hovering about. We had our tickets scanned and made our way to our train. The whole train ride lasts about 40 minutes. In our case it was plenty of time to chit chat and have a good laugh. The train ride at this time isn’t usually busy. So you won’t have to worry about finding enough seats for you and your mates.
Furthermore, the ride down south is very spectacular. You’ll spot many amazing views of the beach throughout and a lot of green and wild Australia. You’ll also pass some beautiful towns such as Hallett Cove, which is known for its beach areas. The weather was also moderately warm, perfect for an autumn’s day.
(Source:https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/find-a-park/Browse_by_region/Adelaide/hallett-cove-conservation-park)
After arriving at your destination, you would still need a bit more travelling to do .McLaren Vale is a bit of a distance away. However, you’ll be able to get there in no time using the local transportation. The fastest way to get there is through an Uber or regular taxi service. However, there are very few ubers working in the area. If you’re lucky enough to grab one, you’ll be set while the price of a regular taxi might be too rich.
Another option is to simply take the bus using the same ticket you used for the train (as a ticket in SA gives you unlimited usage for a total of two hours after use). The bus will take roughly 15-20 minutes to get to Mclaren Vale’s area. Keep in mind, since the area is not as thickly populated as Adelaide city and its suburban areas, buses come less frequently and you may have to wait quite a bit for the next one. Lastly, you could walk there. It takes roughly 40+ minutes although its doable. I would not recommend this option as it really isn’t worth the time walking when you could be enjoying a good wine in the meantime.
After jumping off the bus onto our stop, we were in the main commercial area of McLaren Vale.
A five minutes walk from the station there is a large complex that houses a Coles supermarket, many restaurants and a couple of bars. Before we began our wine journey, we decided to stock up on lunch and other supplies to sustain us for the day. We headed to the local Coles and grabbed an assortment of food, including rustic cheese and pastries. Satisfied with our supplies, we headed off to a local bike store so as to properly get a feel of the area. The place we went to rent our bikes is a bit of a curiosity.
The Almond Carriage Café
This establishment is predominantly a café business. It's also a family business that offers an all day breakfast and serves a wide range of meals and drinks. They offer over a 100 different flavors of milkshakes to choose from. Perfect for the warm weather down under. What makes this establishment particularly unique is the cafe itself. Its located in a converted train carriage which allows for a very cozy and interesting experience to enjoy. Equipped with its very own railway crossing sign and lights, it is definitely a unique sight in this town. The staff are all locals and very friendly. They were more than happy to help us with recommended choices for wineries and types of wines popular in the region.
(Source: http://www.thecarriagecafe.com.au/cafe/)
Its second business on the side is its bike renting. I would recommend booking in advance to make sure you have sufficient bikes for everyone. Needless to say, we were lucky enough to grab enough bikes for the group without a reservation. We all played a game of which bike fits who. I can not stress how good of a decision it is to take a bike tour of the region with your mates.
We spent the rest of the day exploring and I enjoyed it so much that I’ve returned to McLaren Vale more than once. So for the sake of simplicity, I will introduce the most enjoyable and tastiest wineries I enjoyed. The list won’t be in any particular order. Also to add, while I may recommend certain types of wines to try in certain wineries, it would be wasteful not to sample all the others as at the end of the day wine favourites are subjective. So feel free to be adventurous.
Hardy Tintara Cellar
This one, located very close to where the bus would have dropped you off sticks out due to its history and certain types of wines it sells. Located on the main street of the town, this winery has been around since the beginning. The business has been running for over 160 years. The origins of this place date back to the time this establishment was a disused flour mill. The owners bought and converted the mill into what is today’s Hardy Tintara Cellar. This was the first winery I tried here. The owners are very knowledgeable in many types of local wines and are not shy to recommend wines which they do not stock.
They especially focus on Shiraz, Grenache and fortified wines. They range from fruity, dry and many more flavours. I have a soft spot for fortified wines, I do recommend them along with their Mediterranean whites. I’m also told the Pinot Gris is of pretty good quality.The venue also has an art gallery for those looking to have a better feel of the local culture. They also have an outdoor garden, perfect to enjoy a drink or snack on a sunny day. They provide BBQ services for those keen to enjoy a massive outdoor meal.
Hugh Hamilton Wines
This choice is one of the two most scenic wineries in McLaren Vale. Located a twenty minute cycle from the commercial centre, you’ll have to pass a long and beautiful driveway flanked by gorgeous trees. Once you reach the very end you’ll be facing an elevated circular winery surrounded by bright green bushes. Before entering you should admire the surrounding area. A sea of green and low lying grape vines. Unblemished by any buildings for several hundred meters. Upon entrance you will be greeted by friendly winemakers who have been in the business for a couple of decades. If you choose to sit down you can enjoy a refreshing snack or drink with an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area.This venue is known for providing good quality rustic platters to enjoy your wine with. They offer a wide variety of wines to sample from. They have an extensive selection of Shiraz which I highly recommend taking your time trying. However, what I found most impressive was the history behind the winery.
(Source: https://www.hughhamiltonwines.com.au/)
Hugh Hamilton is part of a long line of winemakers. Unlike his predecessor, he aimed to expand his business to the point of making headlines in the wineworld and produce wines that would be sold all over the world. His daughter Mary, who was there during our visit, is the current CEO of the Hugh Hamilton business. She told us how his visionary thinking made him the black sheep of the family, which subsequently became the mascot of the establishment with a life-sized statue of a black sheep greeting wine enthusiasts at the entrance. The Hamilton family is the oldest wine family in Australia, producing wines for over 180 years.
Battle of Bosworth
Named after the last significant battle of the War of Roses, this winery is another great winery I can vouch for. The owner, Joch Bosworth, is a very friendly and dynamic character who gave us a history as well as wine tour. What makes his wines especially unique is his old fashioned methods of wine making,
He took over the reigns of the family business in the mid 1990s. From that point he converted the production of wine from the more orthodox methods of making wine to a more organic and old fashion way of winecraft. Top picks are the Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and the Touriga Nacional. We spent more time listening to his interesting take on wine making and how it works, including the benefits of this method rather than drinking.The place is located just outside Willunga in a stables that had been restored in the mid 19th century. The place also sports spectacular views of the vineyards.
Maxwell wines
To get to this one you’ll need to take a long ride uphill. You’ll reap the rewards of this strenuous ride. This is the second of the top two most scenic wineries in the region. After you park your bikes you’ll have to make your way up a couple of flights of stairs. In front of you, you’ll find a beautiful outdoor area to enjoy a good meal from the Maxwell’s restaurant or a drink with an awe-inspiring view of the low-lying vineyards. This has to be the most breathtaking view of any Mclaren Vale winery. This view can be augmented with blue skies complimenting the fields of green.
I’ve been to this winery twice so far and plan to come a third time due to their good quality wines and spectacular views. However, the views aren’t the reason we came to this part of South Australia.
Upon entering, you’ll have the restaurant area to your right and the wine bar to your left, surrounded by large wine barrels set up as tables. Directly to your left from the entrance there will be a small table providing free samples for their locally made honey. I highly recommend you try (they’re free, there’s no reason not to besides allergies) it. They also provide jams which go well in combination with the honey. If any of the flavours tickle your fancy, feel free to purchase them at the wine bar.
This wine bar provides wines of many varieties to sample for free. My groups’ undeniable favourites are their whites, however their reds were also very popular. I purchased one of their signature mulled wines that taste divine as is or heated up. I was so impressed I bought an extra one to gift the family.
As many other wineries, I was curious to know the history. Wine making was part of the family business of the Maxwells. Mark Maxwell’s (current owner) father used to purchase grapes for wine production as he believed it was the most cost-saving method. However, Maxwell bought the current vineyard and over the last two decades purchased more and more land until the whole thing added up to about 100 acres. The vineyard maintained low lying vines to produce their grapes. The knowledgeable employee (whose name I’ve unfortunately forgotten) stated that they are working on a maze on the premises to have an added experience in the venue. They also have a limestone cave for an out of this world dinner experience. While its relatively spacious, it's not for the claustrophobic.
Alpha Box & Dice
This one winery is a bit more different than the others. If you’re looking for a wine that doesn’t predominantly pride itself on high class presentation and manner, then look no further. The Alpha Box & Dice is a very cozy winery with a unique take on providing you its wares. This ones a few minutes up the road from Maxwell’s winery. From the outside, you may be shocked to find that it doesn’t seem as refinement oriented and class as other wineries. Designed to be cozy and very informal,
From the outside it looks like an average suburban house with sofas and seats littered all around for your seating pleasure. When you enter, prepare to see the most haphazard winery around.
With a long chestnut coloured table stretching along most of the room with boxes of fine crafted wine ready for tastings right under. On one corner you’ll see two retro arcade games. One of them being pinball. You’ll also see a large sign randomly set up in a corner. You’ll see trinkets of all kinds all over the room. Sofas, a random frying pan. Wine bottles and all. Organised chaos is the phrase that comes to mind.
They focus on experimenting with different types of consistencies and flavours. They began their adventure around 2008. One thing I find very interesting is how they are attempting to create a different wine style for every letter of the alphabet. This way they look to make a large innovative selection of different wines to enjoy from. This creativity is reflected in the environment they work in, their venue specifically. They also pride themselves in constructing vegan friendly environments to create the wines.
This winery is pretty unique on its take on wine making. They are very idealistic and looking to create a new scene for wine-making in South Australia. I recall the time when my mates and I rocked up to this place for the first time. It had been a very warm day with the sun scorching anything it could get its hands on.
We were already strained from the cycling to get to here. We passed the gates to the winery, locked up our bikes and made our way up the stairs. The area was a bit crowded with a group of fellow university students sitting down on the benches. Wine, music and laughter, a great scene to be a part of. We were a group of six people. We decided to walk inside to be greeted to three friendly bartenders. We tried many of their recommended wines, some bottles ranging upwards of 90 AUD. We enjoyed many of their drinks, their rose and Sauvignon blanc are pretty good options. We then decided to grab our glasses and sit outside in the grass and outdoor sofas. A great place to lounge around, surrounded by greenery and wine yards.
Samuel Gorge
This winery offers a fine selection of wines to try from. Relatively young in the region. The winery opened in 2003. It's set in a farmshed from the 1850s. The inside sports a very vintage demeanor with many different farm equipment restored and set up around the shop.
The views of this place is beautiful and great to enjoy a wine with. The place has a very homey feel and worth a visit to sample its many reds and whites. Their Graciano is particularly good.
Coriole vineyards
Another outstanding winery. Upon entering the place, we managed to meet one of the managers, Paul Lloyd. This winery was founded in the 1970s by the Lloyd family. A great place to spot a view of the ocean, this winery was built into a farmhouse that had been constructed in the 1860s. We were taught quite a bit of history about the place and the area. For example, before the winery was owned by the Lloyd family, the very first grapes were planted right after the first world war.
The land was very rich in nutrients perfect for growing grapes. After three years from the purchase of the estate, the first bottle of wine was sold commercially. It was a Shiraz bottle which we had the pleasure to sample. Definitely ask them for their first type of Shiraz. It has faced a few alterations, however it is still the original. I was also told that they are trailblazers of the Sangiovese and Italian styles of wine.
We were even given a short tour of the vineyards. It was a beautiful experience with all the scents and sensations as the history of the place coursed through you. We were allowed to sample some of the wines that were just about ripe. I almost pitied the fact that they were turning these into wine as they were some of the best tasting grapes I had ever tried.
Subsequently, we spend quite a bit of time here sampling all the different types and my mates bought a few bottles of reds and whites.
I would highly recommend coming here for a lunch break. The sight of the garden is divine. Its surrounded by trees and flowers of all shapes and varieties. The multi-colored gardens had several benches to choose from for a meal or drink. They offer everything from pork, seafood, beef, kangaroo and many high quality vegetables to bite into after a long day of wine tasting.
Serafino wines
A great choice. This one, I quickly came to realise, was one of the most distinguished wineries in McLaren Vale. The managers of this fine winery are Steve Serafino and his father. One of the first pieces of knowledge I was told almost immediately after my question about the history about this winery was the awards.
Steve quickly became a distinctive wine-maker. Winning awards such as the Lambrusco King, multiple-time winner of the Bushing King for the best red wine in a McLaren Vale competition. He also gained national recognition for winning the best Shiraz in the Great Australian challenge in the 1990s.
(Source: https://serafinowines.com.au/about/gallery/#accommodation)
He won international recognition after winning the International Wine Challenge in London for best Shiraz and even spent five years in the ‘gold class’ of the competition. This qualified it to win a consistency award for quality wine.
It was easy to guess his origins. If it weren’t for the Italian-esque last name, then you would quickly figure it out by the name of many his creations. After listening to the story of Steve, I was keen to meet him. However he wasn’t around at the time.
Regardless, I tried many of their different Shirazs and was very impressed with the taste. It was definitely unique. However, I’m not a wine connoisseur and can’t really give you a proper spreadsheet of why it was a winner of so many awards.
The venue also provides many delectable high cuisine meals to sample with great platter options. They also offer accommodation for those keen to enjoy more than a day in McLaren Vale.
Oxenberry farm
This one has a special mention.The latest winery in my discovered list, this place has a different product that makes it particularly popular, its Ciders. My group of mates and I were trying to reach as many wineries as possible before the 5 PM region-wide wineries closure. After cycling from place to place, we decided to spend the half hour before closure time at the Oxenberry farm. We cycled there and locked up our bikes, sore and buzzed after a long day of tasting and cycling.
The area was one of serenity and beauty. Situated right next to the river, this establishment provided a restaurant, bar, cafe and accommodation for weary travellers. This beautiful wooden house retrofitted into a bar sports a massive yard with lounge chairs and benches for patrons to enjoy. When we arrived, it had been filled to the brim with families. Some children playing around with their dogs. The whole place created a picture of rustic charm.
Before we even hit the wine tasting, we secured a large table to soak in the sun. Only a few of us decided to get that last wine tasting in. I’m glad I make that decision to join. The bartenders were very friendly and offered us many recommendations for tasting. I stuck to fortified wines and a shiraz. All good options.
I chit chatted a bit more with the bartender and found out that Oxenberry is known for its peach, apple and grape ciders. Probably against instructions, he opened a bottle of apple cider, and without a doubt I can say that that was one of the best quality ciders I’ve tried. Many ciders you try are simply alcohol filled apple juice filled to the brim with sugar. This one had more consistency and punch than the others.
We kept talking to the bartender and found out that he’s of Italian origin but born in Australia. He traveled through Germany and a few other countries to learn more about wine-making and cider techniques. Throughout his travels he learned many important details which he used in combination with local methods to create a unique blend of wines and ciders.
In both my experiences in McLaren Vale, they ended in the same manner. Sore and buzzed, we returned out bikes, then sat down and practically used each other as support until the periodic bus arrived and took us back to the train station. If you time it right, which I accidently did once, you can enjoy a beautiful sunset, the sun slowly making its way beneath the waves. One last hurrah to the beauty of the area. McLaren Vale is without a doubt a premier experience that you should try. Although, you will soon find out that you might not have enough time to see everything you’d like to see.
What I would recommend is to come reasonably early to McLaren Vale. Before then, pick the most interesting wineries to go to and plan your way to get there. Take into account lunch breaks and transit times. Also, keep in mind that most wineries shut their doors (and cellars) by five o'clock in the afternoon. So select your favourites based either in wine, history or uniqueness. For example, when it comes to Shiraz, I recommend you defo go to Serafino to taste their exquisite Shiraz. If you’re looking for something new and unique, Alpha Box & Dice is the way to go. Also keep in mind that you can purchase many souvenirs and novelty foods such as kangaroo sausage, many types of locally harvested honey, jams and different types of cheeses. Lookout for wineries that provide cheeses to compliment your wine for an augmented experience.
If you find yourself with extra time, feel free to have a look around the town. McLaren Vale has been around for many years and holds a lot of Australian history to discover., from its refurbished carriage Cafe’s to its retrofitted farmhouse wineries. Perhaps after the long experience you might end up taking some of your favourite wines back home to the family. By the end of it all, if you haven’t found a wine worth buying or simply came for the experience, you would have saved a momentous amount of money as your only costs would be bike rental, food and going to and from McLaren Vale. This, coupled with the fact that you managed to see several wineries make it a must do when you’re visiting Adelaide.
Happy adventuring and drink responsibly!
