A day in Seville
It was the end of December. Our European journey had begun but we were already at our third stop: we were in Seville. As we didn't have a lot of time, our visit was more of an "express" one than anything else. Below you will find everything that we both saw and did during this short day (short, it was, but it was well taken advantage of).
In Seville, there are loads of buildings that are simply beautiful! In the street that we were staying in, in the Triana neighbourhood, there were several very pretty ones, like the one in the photo that I took, for example. I really liked the detailing on the tiles and the arch on the wooden door.
How did we get to Seville?
We came to Seville from Granada, taking a bus with the company, ALSA. The ticket was a little bit expensive and cost us approximately 28€ each. There were other tickets for 12€, but I chose to buy the more expensive ones because the bus would leave at 8am and arrive in Seville at 11am. Whereas, with the cheaper ticket, the bus would leave Granada at 7am and only arrive at 11:30am (don't ask me why it left earlier but arrived later).
Where did we sleep?
Throughout this whole European journey, we have used Airbnb: the online platform that allows you to rent rooms or entire flats. You pay much less for an Airbnb than you would for a hotel, and you have a bed to sleep in, as well as a bathroom and a kitchen at your disposition. The room that I chose was located very close to the city centre - around a 10 minute walk away... an ideal location, really! And we only paid 27€ for the room for two people.
What did we do during our day in Seville?
After dropping off our things, we asked our host which places they recommended that we visit. They marked the main places that we had to visit on a map and directed us towards the city centre to start our route around Seville.
The Gualdaquivir River, that flows through Seville. Upon first sighting, I didn't like this river, as I ended up comparing it to the Rhine and the Seine, whose banks are much better cared for: there are green spaces, areas to exercise in... but, anyway, after walking around for the day, my perspective and opinion about this riverbed changed.
Getting to the city centre
We crossed the Torre del Oro bridge and later walked along the Paseo Colón. We saw the Plaza de Toros and, a little further along, we found the bus stop where the Seville tourist buses depart from. As you already know, these are the buses that provide people with commentary during tours of that particular city.
As we would not have a lot of time in the city, we were encouraged to buy tickets for one of these visits. There were two companies whose prices were the same - 18€: the first was called CitySightSeeing (the buses are red), and the second, Sevirama (their buses are green).
We first asked the guy from the red bus company and he very clearly explained the service to us; in addition, he told us that the ticket was valid for two days. This tour would have been really convenient, but we would only be in Seville for one day, so it didn't really make much sense...
Seville's Plaza de Toros (Bullring)... "¡Ole! "
In the end, we went to ask about the prices at the other stand. The girl, having told her that we would only be there for one day, sold us the tickets for 14€! So, if you guys visit Seville and want to take this tour, you can negotiate with the person that is selling you the ticket.
Well, we boarded the tourist bus and began our journey around the city, which lasted for an hour and 15 minutes. It was quite a long, but beautiful, tour. We had first boarded the bus and sat ourselves down upstairs, from where you have a much better vantage point of the buildings. However, that day, it was very cold, cloudy, and windy. As I was a little bit ill, we preferred to change our seats to some downstairs, as they were covered.
The journey on the tourist bus
The journey lasted, as I already said, just over an hour. I don't exactly remember how many places we saw, but what I do know, thanks to this tour, is that we could see the main sights in the city: for example, the University of Seville, or the famous Plaza España.
In addition, the advantage of this kind of tour is that you can hop on and off at any of the stops to take more time to look around properly. As we first boarded the bus at the start of the afternoon, we decided to complete the tour fully and see all the stops included.
Another of Seville's monuments: I took this photo from the top level of the bus.
The Plaza de España
Once completed, I told my mother that I wanted us to visit the Plaza de España, as I had seen that it was one of the most celebrated places in the city. Also, another reason to go there is that it's completely free!
If you go to Seville, in addition to the Real Alcázar palace, the Giralda and the Torre del Oro, this beautiful square is a must-visit and must definitely not be missed.
By the way, an alternative way to make your way around this square comes in the form of horse-drawn carriages. When we went there in the tourist bus, we saw several of these and they piqued our curiosity, so we said: "Well, maybe it would be a good idea to do this tour too. "
The horse-drawn carriages that I was talking about earlier (ignore my finger... let's just say that this was me adding my own artistic touch).
When you go to the Plaza de España, you will see several carriages. So, we went up to one of them and asked how much it would cost for a ride: it cost 45€. They explained to us that they would take us through the streets that the tourist buses don't have access to, and would also provide commentary about the city during the tour.
It sounded good, but I wanted to go and see the Plaza de España. Also, due to the time, we would only have time to do one thing. So, anyway, we will do this other tour when we return to Seville in the future.
It was honestly an excellent decision to go to the famous Plaza de España: it's magnificent! If I could describe it in just one word, I would say that it's exceptional and extraordinary (hahaha, ok, I used two words, but it's impossible not to want to keep using adjectives about such a beautiful place).
With its architecture and its impressive space, you could spend hours and hours here and there would always be something new to discover. This place is called the Plaza de España because, on each one of its benches, you can see a motif, a landscape, or a map of each one of the regions in Spain.
This, I think, is the University of Seville.
So, what makes going to the Plaza fun is seeing how each region is represented. I think this is a magnificent place to teach an outdoors Spanish class! And with all the culture-rich elements that it has, for anyone who is learning Spanish, they will leave with lots of new knowledge. (Yes, I know that my Spanish teacher side is coming out, haha, I am sorry, I couldn't suppress it. I am little bit obsessed with finding new teaching materials for my beloved students. )
One of the details of the Plaza de España: can you see the devil's face in the middle? My question is, "what does it mean? "... I think a guided tour of this place must be extremely interesting! Well, I guess I'll save it for another occasion.
I am hungry, my head hurts! Where are we going to eat?
Well, after spending almost all afternoon there (as there are also some stairs that you can climb that lead to a kind of balcony where you have panoramic views of the park), we decided to go there to look for something to eat.
We walked towards the centre, passing the University building and the neighbouring streets. It wasn't difficult to get to the city centre because it's located very close to the Plaza de España. Besides, as we had a map and the streets weren't as confusing (or, poorly designed, in other words) as they are in other places, we arrived there in less than 20 minutes.
The guy whose Airbnb we were renting recommended a place called Rayuela to us. He told us that the prices were reasonable and that the food was also delicious. However, on the map that he gave us, as I couldn't remember exactly where this place was situated, we followed rough directions.
When we arrived at the street that he had directed us to, the one that is "close to the restaurant", we couldn't find anything! And we, growing hungrier and more tired with every minute that passed, almost started to get a headache from waiting.
We searched for the restaurant in the surrounding areas and asked people who worked at neighbouring businesses... nobody had heard of this place! They told us, "there are lots of places near the cathedral". Yes, of course there were, but this is where people go if they want to be ripped off... everything there would be much more expensive and it would be like tempting fate choosing a restaurant there - no thanks!
One of the little bridges at the Plaza de España: even more beautiful detailing, with its tiles and its bricks. Did you already spot the handrail made entirely of blue and white tiles? It reminds me a little bit of talavera earthenware from Puebla.
Buying souvenirs... (and my bad mood)
We passed by a souvenir shop where my mother bought a mug, as well as something else, although I don't remember what that was. I didn't miss the opportunity to annoy her by telling her that she already had a collection of mugs, so why would she want another one, haha.
But anyway, I should acknowledge that the mug she chose was very pretty. And in that shop, they also had several other pretty items. I was almost very tempted to buy myself something! But, in the end, I suppressed the urge.
Ah, by the way, I must say that the owner of the souvenir shop was very nice. I couldn't not mention this because, here in France, they are sometimes a bit stupid and in Puebla (my city of origin) too. I think in Puebla, sometimes (in reality, more times than not) they are even worse.
So, every time that we went to a place and they were nice, it was like I almost I kept one eye open. We have the Spanish to thank for this, due to their nature of being extremely friendly, relaxed and kind... I don't think anything bad would come from it, I just think that's how they really are.
The search to find a place to eat (again)...
Well, upon leaving (finally! ) the gift shop, we went to the tourism office: we thought that there they would be able to inform us and tell us where the restaurant, the one that we had spent so long looking for, was actually located.
The small problem was that, when we entered said office, we saw a huge queue of people waiting to be attended to! And, to top it all off, it wasn't even moving. So, we joined the queue, irritated, because who knew how long we would have to wait there before someone could help us... Well, in the best case that they did know where this restaurant actually is, they could also easily hit us with: "Rayuela? No, what a strange name, I have never heard anyone talk about that place before... but we can recommend you somewhere else! "
In the end, to avoid the situation of being stuck there doing nothing, passively waiting, I left and asked at a lottery booth if they knew of this place, but the man there didn't know either. Although, mind you, he was very kind and, as he heard that I had a different accent, he asked me where I was from.
I told him that I was from Mexico and he began to make conversation with me, asking: how long I would be in Seville, if I have liked it, what Mexico was like, which part of the country I was from, etc.
Before returning to that damn office, I suddenly saw a side street, where an arch could be seen... instinctively, I walked in that direction, I said to myself that I had nothing to lose going to see what was there...
One more detail about the Plaza de España... there are beautiful elements wherever you look! You have to take your time to walk around it in its entirety.
And I was lucky! A few metres ahead, I had finally found the damn restaurant, Rayuela! Fortunately, I had found it! So, I quickly returned to where my mother was to give her the good news that I now knew where the place we had so longed for was located.
Rayuela, finally we are eating!
Well, we entered the restaurant: it seemed very charming, impeccable, and modern. Something that caught my attention, aside from it being very spacious, was that its decor was very pretty: the walls were painted white and, above one of them, there was a huge brightly-coloured painting. In addition to this, it had some columns, which had orange trees painted above them: of course, what else could have been painted there!? Being in Sevilla, whose symbol, so to speak, is this tree, it was normal to see this element included as part of the restaurant decor.
We sat down, read the menu, and realised that the prices weren't too crazy. I have already written a full review of this place, so I will just tell you that the restaurant is good, although it depends on what you order.
There are dishes that, yes, I do recommend, but there are others, which I equally don't recommend, above all, the infamous prawns: they were nothing more than eight little shrimps in a ridiculous amount of oil... for what it was, it seemed expensive in my opinion.
On the other hand, there were other dishes which were much more filling: with meat and vegetable accompaniments. The "pollo a la crema" (no, I don't think it was cream, but it was chicken, that's for sure) was tasty. These are the kind of dishes that I would advise eating.
Ah, another thing that you have to try is their sangria. Why? Just because! Going to Spain without trying sangria is like going to Italy and not eating gelato (even if it's winter! ), or coming to France and not trying a croissant or a pain au chocolat... or, going to Mexico and not eating an authentic taco or enchiladas!
One of the dishes that we ordered in Rayuela... and the sangria!
Well, now you understand me. Anyhow, I recommend that you try the sangria at Rayuela. The flavour is good and it's not very expensive at all. We really liked it, so much so that we ordered two glasses of it (and well, in the end, I ended up feeling a little "happy").
The owner is Croatian, but he speaks Spanish very well and is very nice. To begin with, he was a little cold, but, in the end, when we told him that we had come from Mexico, he told us that one of his friends, who is also Croatian, lived in Mexico City, and that he said that he had really liked the country (of course, who wouldn't like this beautiful country! ).
Continuing our walk: the Cathedral
Well, in the end, after having eaten and having rested a little, we were ready to continue our walk again. So, after leaving the restaurant, we went to the cathedral. We couldn't go inside, however, as it was already the evening and was closed.
I also remember that, close to the cathedral, there were several little stalls and shops. One of these sold desserts: it left me really craving dessert! This is what we didn't lack in Rayuela, however. We went past two stalls where I saw something that I wanted, but I didn't give in to temptation.
The Giralda bell tower
After seeing the cathedral, we walked around the surrounding area to see the very famous Giralda bell tower, as well as the little square that is also there. That tower is spectacular! Seeing it at night... so big, tall, striking, and majestic....
It's very tall and, seeing the work put into it, its architectural details, you feel compelled to ask who did it and which techniques were used during its construction. I couldn't stop myself from admiring how beautiful this piece of cultural heritage was, having been erected several centuries ago and is still standing to this day.
That image, in that moment, was one of the most precious moments of the trip. Its one of the prettiest memories, above all because I was with my mother. I would never have thought that I would be in such a beautiful place by her side. I felt very fortunate to be able to share in this experience with her.
And, suddenly, the rain arrived!
To make this moment even more memorable, it started to rain! Well, maybe it's not the best form of celebration, because we got a little bit soaked and it was cold, hahaha. But I remember correctly, with the rain and the dark night sky, the square and Giralda Tower looked beautiful. I think that listening to the spitting rain, seeing the soaking wet floor, and recognising the familiar humid smell are all images and smells that will stay engrained in my memory forever.
Returning home: the Paseo Colón and the live bars
It didn't take us long to get home, and it was already getting late anyway. Besides, the streets were already starting to become quieter, and businesses had already closed for the evening. Therefore, we decided to make our way back on foot.
Before, we passed by a shop to buy stuff for our trip the following day, well, for breakfast anyway. We went into a Chinese shop... Something that I remember about this was that there was a man paying in front of us (he was English or German, I think, but foreign for sure) who forgot to pick up his money off of the counter - a 50€ note. The Chinese realised and quickly took it for themselves. I saw everything that happened, but I didn't end up saying anything, well I didn't tell the man that he had forgotten something. Besides, he left really quickly, like he was in a hurry...
It took a bit of guts for me to watch this, seeing that they hadn't been honest. But, at the same time, I couldn't really do anything either... So, the advice that I will leave you with: pay attention at all times; be it when exchanging money or buying any goods, always pay attention. This is something that not only happens in this type of store, but everywhere, and not just in Spain, but in every country.
After this, we left and walked past the Paseo Colón once again. For the time of day that it was, it really caught my attention the number of bars that were open, all of which were frequented by many and had lively atmospheres. It's not like that in Lyon!
Well, of course there are bars in Lyon, but they are not full like these ones were. After having seen this lively nightlife scene, I said: "Mmm I bet that the nightlife here must be really interesting! " I couldn't try it out for myself, but maybe you guys can.
Triana Isabel II bridge: Seville by night!
We continued walking, crossing the Triana Isabel II bridge. There was a man playing the accordion. I think that he only knew one song because he kept playing the same thing over and over again, hahaha, and when we asked him to play a request, he said that he didn't understand us. I think that he was Romanian or something along those lines... or he pretended not to understand so he didn't have to say that he didn't know it.
Although, by day, I hadn't really liked it that much (well, for the view of the Guadalquivir River, which had seemed really dirty to me), by night, with the lights reflected in the water and the music from the man playing the accordion, it was simply a magical and unforgettable moment!
Conclusion
Seville and Granada were the two cities that I liked the most. We started the trip in Madrid and I didn't really like the city (the Prado Museum, yes, but in general, I wasn't convinced, it seemed too loud and chaotic for me... I prefer Paris! ). I thought that I wouldn't like Spain, but fortunately Seville and Granada changed my overall perception.
I really liked Seville: with its monuments, its streets, its squares - although it's smaller than other Spanish cities - you could spend so much time here and not get bored. So, if you are considering this place as your next destination to visit, or as an study abroad destination, I can assure you that it will not disappoint you.
In any case, it personally did not disappoint me. Seville was the last Spanish city that we visited on our trip. After this, we would return to France to spend a week in none other than Paris! I had missed listening to the French language being spoken and being in a familiar country, one where I know how to get around and how everything works.
Although we didn't have any problems with the language in Spain (we speak Spanish), it's different to how the Mexicans speak, obviously - I wouldn't have imagined it having been any other way. But, I was already excited to return to my comfort zone, something that I know and am familiar with. So, although it was sad because we had spent such little time in Seville, a city that I really liked, at the same time, I was happy because we were returning to France where I could understand the traditions and habits again... it feels like I am home there.
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Content available in other languages
- Español: Un día en Sevilla
- Italiano: Una giornata a Siviglia
- Polski: Jeden dzień w Sewilli
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