Day 22 | Visiting Koyasan-Okunoin, Kongobuji and Hojo-in (and night with the giant spiders)

Hey guys! I have 3 more days out of 29 left to describe adventures from my trip in Japan. I would like to continue with Day 22 when I was already in the camp, my fourth day with the campers, and our next locations were several temples and the traditional hotel somewhere in the mountains of Wakayama-prefecture. This includes going to the Okunoin temple which is part of Koyasan area, followed by the lunch and visit to the Memorial Monument of Lions Club, then a bus ride to Kongobuji temple and lastly to Hojo-in temple and the hotel which behaved literally like Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.

Unfortunately I do not believe you will be able to read about this day with plenty of information as I will not have enough time, we visited so many places each with its own story and so many things happened I would have to break it into two posts. However, let me try to keep it short.

Visiting Koyasan-Okunoin

We left our hotel in Osaka after spending a day at the Universal Studios Japan. What it was like you can read and see in three of my reports. After breakfast we left for the temple of Koyasan where the trip lasted for almost 3 hours. What I remember while arriving there is that it is a part of the larger complex with several temples. It was all suggesting we were going to have an awesome time today, especially if you are a fan of the Buddhist temples, rituals and walks through the forest. Unfortunately, it was raining practically the whole day that even extra umbrellas were needed to survive. All of these places are located in Wakayama Prefecture maybe just about on the half of the way between Osaka city and Wakayama (a bit closer to Wakayama though).

Okunoin temple (part of the Koyasan area) and especially the area and the path leading to it are just amazing. I had to have a look at all of my photos and on the internet to remind me and there is just so much to tell you about.

The path that leads to it is maybe half an hour or more long and you are walking among thousands of little temples, shrines and the tombs through the forest. All in gray and green. Here is where I learned about the red clothes put on the sculptures or columns at the cemeteries that actually show that there was a baby or a child that died.

One of such places were several big pyramids of little sculptures and plenty of colourful rags or scarfs put around them. For a moment one would have thought to be in some other country as this with the pyramids was strange for me to associate with Japan. While walking through the forest of the very tall trees we end up across several smaller bridges in front of the stairs that climb on a hill.

Behind the enormous dark gates upon the stairs one finds the huge temple, also in dark colours, that was surrounded with so white stone that almost looked like snow!

We entered the temple and what I noticed was the ceiling full of hundreds of little lanterns. We had a priest there who showed us a little bit things around and we came across a book where you could write a message referring to the luck or wishing someone luck. It was not a guestbook of course and I saw that no one really wrote stupid messages there as we use to while visiting some places. Alongside the book were many of amulets or luck artefacts with kanji on it. On some of the wooden sticks even one could write a message but since we knew no Japanese except for few friends most of us did not touch it. There was also a donation box which is quiet normal for all the sacred places in Japan to have. Unfortunately, we were not supposed to take photographs of the interior...

Lunch and the Memorial Monument of Lions Club

We went then back for the lunch at the big restaurant house near the parking lot. There was some other large building close by that might have been a train station. After lunch (and this time meal was difficult for us) we were supposed to visit the Memorial Monument of the Lions Club when it started to rain heavily. We had to bring more umbrellas from the bus to help the others without it. It took us about 10 minutes of walking till we reached this cemetery and the Memorial Monument in the middle of it. We spent there several minutes and commemorated the dead members of the Lions Club. The Japanese cemeteries look a bit different from ours. While we prefer to have the horizontal epitaphs with the name and the text written horizontally in Japan the columns are being preferred with the text (signs) written vertically. What I also noticed was that many of these columns had a hole at the top where one could put a candle. And the top of it then was closed by a little roof that looked like a square or the roof of the temples.

Visiting Kongobu-ji temple

Our next destination was the temple of Kongobuji which is maybe the biggest temple we have been to and covers pretty large area. I remember the white sand around the path after passing the huge gates and then the classic – taking of the shoes and leaving them at the wooden stairs. Walking then through the hallways that were connecting the rooms and halls (maybe everything on some kind of a platform) in the socks until we were asked to sit down in one hall and... wait for the tea and cookies. That is what I remember more or less.

The last stop today was the hotel and the temple Hojo-in where I do not remember anymore the temple and whether we visited it or not but very much the hotel we stayed at. On our way there we stopped once at Lawson store to get some snacks which turned into a big shopping madness. Mr Toru told us we do not have to spend our own money and bought us everything! I also saw there the "magazines for the adults" and was laughing. I could not pick inside as all of them are packed in the plastic foils and unless you buy them it is not possible. I did it for the purpose of journalism of course.

Hojo-in hotel

The rain started again as we were leaving with our bags from the bus to this temple. It was night already but the place looked big. Unfortunately no time to go around it even in the morning but the hotel and the temple had an enclosed yard with nice garden and rocks lying around. Oh, I forgot to mention that at all the Japanese temples have rocks lying around the yard but always somehow balanced. I believe they represent something with the energy and energy points forming some balance in the nature and among the architecture.

At the entrance of the house we had to leave the shoes again and put them into the wooden racks on each side of the racks. Then we got the number of the room... or just headed to any room we found. I was in the room with one of my best friends there – Ugur from Turkey. Now the hotel was pretty interesting, the whole complex actually. One half of this huge building had about 3 floors in total with many "hidden" hallways that were like a labyrinth. There was one space where one could sit on the sofa and even catch wi-fi signal when lucky. We were walking with our smartphones in the air trying to catch the signal like the scene from the Lions King.

The rooms here were of course traditional and the "locals" (the priests) here were wearing their kimono I think the whole time we spent there. The walls of the rooms were pretty thin and you could hear the others several rooms away so talking here and secrets was not going to pass. There was a wardrobe with the doors that open to the left and right (and the doors of the room too) and had plenty of blankets. We had two mattresses on the floor and also a place to charge our electronics. There were large windows and we closed them both not wanting rain to get it. It proved to be a very smart decision that evening, as you are going to find out.

We had a dinner in a large hall on the first floor (next to the entrance) sitting several hours on our knees on small pillows. I could not take it anymore and chose to sit in what we call in Croatia "sitting like Turk" posture with both legs crossed. We had now opportunity to eat Vegetarian only meal as that was the practice at this temple. It was quiet delicious even without meat (I am a carnivore by the way) and we did not feel hungry. Again a bit of everything on the plate. There was one problematic part that was impossible to stay still when using the chopsticks, something white that looked like a pudding, and always fell down in the bowl. It took me 5 minutes before it stopped falling.

We thanked the hosts for dinner and then had country presentations. One had to be careful not to lay with their back on the wall behind because it would get damaged easily. Another potential "danger" and a problem were the doors to this large room or hall as some of us were much taller and could get hit in the head like Gandalf in Bag End.

We had now about 2 hours of free time before going to sleep and it was not boring indeed. What should I mention first? Let me see...getting lost around the building and discovering large halls in the basement (in the dark! ), hunting down and running away from the spiders of a size of a tennis ball, going for the shower for the first time in the "public" baths with other guys naked...

After roaming around with friends and checking every floor and the floors (and since there were very few other guests besides us it was pretty spooky to go walk around alone) we found those baths and probably the strangest toilets I have ever encountered. There were two doors – one for men and for women... but then instead of having a wall between each other the toilet in the middle (for "the big need") was shared by both! You could literally pass through the men's restroom into women's just by going through that cabin in the middle, insane! There was also a room with sinks where one could shave or brush teeth in peace. I did it, being alone on the whole floor waiting for the monsters to attack me. And right now remembered another toilet non of us did not want to use. The place where you are supposed to sit while peeing or the other thing... was just a hole in the floor! I was wondering how that was even possible to do without falling on your back and rolling around. And there were several holes (or let's say these "sophisticated toilets" ) in the row meaning you could have been with the others. No privacy, no toilet paper and no toilet bowl. Never imagined that. There was a pretty normal and modern restroom on our floor of course. But that downstairs is like walking through some museum.

Then my roommate and I decided to go in the last 15 minutes before its closing to the shower room as we thought "We are going to have to do this within few days at this Inunakiyama Onsen so maybe try it now when there is not many people around to break the ice". So we did there and it was first strange but once you stop caring nothing abnormal. We spent 5 minutes there and one of the campers was also there I believe (but could not recognise him without glasses) who asked us "hey guys, what are you laughing about? " but he could not understand it from our point of view.

The last thing to mention were the huge spiders that scared the *thing* out of everyone. You remember me mentioning it was a wise decision to close the windows in our room? Well, the others did not do it.

What happened and how we survived it (and if we did) coming soon.

Plans for the other day

There was an ascetic practice in the morning for the brave ones who wanted to wake up around 6 a. m. I was sleeping. Then we went more to the south to famous Shirahama and spent the day at the Shirahama White beach, were supposed to watch the fireworks and have a karaoke evening in the hotel.

Thanks for reading.

Photo credits go to the Lions Camp Osaka counsellors and the campers (Jesse Tucek).

Photo gallery