My Erasmus Experience in Istanbul, Turkey - by Javier Amador

Why did you choose to go to Istanbul, Turkey?

Of all the Erasmus destinations, Turkey was the one which would offer me the biggest culture clash. Living in Turkey is living in a city between two continents.

How long did your scholarship last? How much were you paid?

I went to Istanbul for a full academic year (nine months), but you can also just go for one semester (around five months). I received 115 euros per month from the EU (80% at the start and 20% at the end) and 223 euros per month from the Ministry of Education (I think students receive less now though, and the money from the Ministry of Education is only for a maximum of eight months). Some autonomous communities and other administrations give you extra money, too (I missed out on the grant from Gran Canaria because I didn't apply in time - you have to do it the summer before).

What's the student life like in Istanbul?

There are loads of Erasmus students, and friendship groups of people from the same country usually form, but everything is very multicultural. The Turkish students love socialising with the exchange students and are happy to help you with anything you need.

Would you recommend the city and University of Istanbul to other students?

Istanbul is an incredible, beautiful and different city, with very hospitable people living there. The bureaucracy is excessive and confusing, but you get everything sorted out in the end. I really recommend it as an Erasmus destination. My university doesn't take the Erasmus programme very seriously and the modules I'd chosen before I moved to Istanbul turned out not to exist when I turned up, so I had to change my Learning Agreement (but loads of Erasmus students end up having to do this). The classes are really easy, and most of them are solely for Erasmus students.

What's the food like in Turkey?

I really like it. You can eat out really cheaply. In addition to the famous kebabs (totally different to kebabs in Spain, not particularly better or worse, just different), there is a lot of traditional food, both sweet and savoury (some of which is quite spicy). Try 'lahmacun' and 'köfte'.

Did you find it hard to find somewhere to live in Istanbul?

It didn't take me very long at all. The best thing to do in my experience is to form a group of people you want to live with and go to estate agents together, bringing a Turkish friend too who can interpret for you. You have to pay the estate agent a fee, but in my experience it ended up being pretty affordable. A good place to live if your university is in the European zone is near the Mecidiyeköy metro station. It's an uncomplicated area with good transport links to all over the city. Most flats and houses are unfurnished, but second hand furniture is very cheap and you often find it for free sitting on the street. This is all presuming that you want to live with other exchange students; if you want to live with Turkish people, there are lots of webpages where you can find room advertisements.

How expensive is living in Istanbul?

600 euros are enough to live on, easily. You shouldn't be paying more than 250 euros a month for your accommodation (I paid 200 euros a month in a duplex flat for an enormous room and bathroom, which was also in a great location). A new double mattress cost me 80 euros, and you can find the rest of your furniture on the street, in second hand shops or in IKEA. For food shopping, I recommend buying meat from the local butcher, fish from one of the fish markets (there's a really good one in Karakoy) and vegetables from the little Sunday markets. You can buy everything else at the supermarket, obviously (Migros is quite a cheap one, don't go to Carrefour). If you follow these steps, you'll save around 70 to 80 euros on food per month. For transport, it's best to get yourself a student Istanbulkart (you can get one at the transport office in Karakoy - bring your passport, a passport photo and your enrolment letter from your university and they'll give you one on the spot). You top up this card as you go along. One journey on almost all the public transport is one lira (36 cents) and a connecting ticket 0. 40 kuruş. If you use public transport every day, it may be a good idea to pay 70 lira a month for 250 journeys which you have to use before the end of the month. In my opinion though, it's unlikely that you'll spend more than 70 lira on public transport every month, but it all depends on what's better value for you. The rest of your budget you'll spend on leisure activities and on your mobile phone.

It's good to be clear on what your options are for your mobile:

1. Bring your Spanish phone with you. It should be unlocked, of course. You should register it at the tax office in Sishane, and give them its IMEI number (bring your mobile with you so that they can read off the number when you're there, that way you won't get it wrong). You'll have to pay 115 lira for this and they'll give you a sheet of paper, which you should keep somewhere safe. Then go to a shop like Turkcell or Avea (Turkcell is better) and buy a prepaid SIM card for however much (probably around 40 lira). Best not to ask any more questions there as they'll try and explain to you how to register it and things get confusing. Go to the nearest commissary and ask where to register your mobile (show them the sheet you got from the tax office, then they'll understand). Show the sheet at the police station along with your passport, a passport photocopy, and a photocopy of your visa. You'll have to fill out a form and give your name, address and telephone number of the prepaid card you've just bought. They'll process the forms the same day and ask you to come back tomorrow. When they give you the form to say that you've registered, go back to Turkcell or Avea and ask to register your mobile, showing them your documents from the tax office and police. You'll need to pay 40 liras for this, and in under a week your mobile will be registered. If you don't go through this process, sooner or later your phone will be blocked. All that's left to do is to decide on a tariff or on a package. Make sure you know exactly what your package includes, or else you'll spend a small fortune if you accidentally use the internet or make too many calls. You get a message telling you your balance is low when you need to top up.
2. Buy a Turkish phone and skip the registration process - just buy the prepaid card and start topping it up straight away.

How are you finding the language? Have you signed up to a language class at the university?

The language is pretty different to Spanish, and it's hard to understand, but you'll get there bit by bit. My university does offer Turkish language courses, but if you really want to learn Turkish it's best to do it at an academy.

What's the cheapest way of getting to Istanbul from your home city?

The only way to get there is by plane. The main airlines are Pegasus and Turkish Airlines (Pegasus is usually much cheaper). You can also pay less by taking connecting flights.

What are the best places for partying in Istanbul?

The best area is Istiklal Street. There's a great atmosphere there with lots of bars and clubs.

What about eating out in Istanbul? What are your favourite places?

I'd recommend trying all kinds of typical Turkish food, and in all different places. I'd also recommend trying what is for me the best Dürüm I've ever eaten. In Kadikoy (in the Asian area) there's a place where they serve a delicious 70cm long Dürüm and homemade Ayran (a typical Turkish drink). To get there, follow the main street (you'll see it when you leave the port, a little to the right) until you reach a bull statue at the end of the road. Here there are four streets to choose from. Continue on down the one on the far left and turn onto the second street on the right. You'll see two really full places there - the good place is the one which has a photo of a cook holding a Dürüm in his hand outside.

What does Istanbul have to offer in terms of culture?

The Sultanahmet area (Saint Sophie, Topkapi Palace, the cisterns, the Blue Mosque, Gulhane Park) and Eminonu. There's also Galata Bridge and Taksim.

Do you have any advice for future students coming to Istanbul>

I recommend sorting out your residence card well in advance as there is a long waiting list (as in, months long). I got a tourist visa instead of a student one, as the tourist one costs 15 euros and the student one 60. You're entitled to a residence card with both of them.

Don't let yourself be put off by the myths that Istanbul is a dangerous city. It's incredibly welcoming and there's no pickpocketing. Enjoy it!