Hvar, a must-see place

Hvar is pretty small and it's quite easy to familiarise yourself with the streets to the point when you don't even need to know the names. The main street consists of a long promenade, lined with small, rocky beaches, and attractions owing to its hotels, bars and restaurants. The main square is called Trg Svetog Stjepana and the bus stop is only a few minutes away. On the northern slope above the square, inside the ancient walls, are the remains of some palaces which belonged to the aristocracy of Hvar. All the way from the bus station to the port, the village is completely pedestrianised, which is ideal to preserve its medieval tranquility.

The main square, 'Trg Svetog Stjepan'

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Here in Hvar, you do not organise your stay depending on the opening hours of museums and churches as they are very irregular and unreliable. Start by seeing some cultural points of interest in Hvar square, one of the largest ancient squares in the Croatian region of Dalmatia. The town initially extended north of the square and later on, more towards the south. It is worth having a look at the well that can be found at the north end of the beach, built in 1520, which has a wrought iron gate dating back to 1780.

The town of Hvar

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On the southern side of the square you can find the arsenal, which was built in 1611 to replace an earlier building that was destroyed by the Turks. Described in some Venetian documents as "the most beautiful and most useful building in all of Dalmatia", the arsenal once served as a place for the war galleons to be repaired and equipped. The northern wing of the building was used for storing supplies and provisions.

The arsenal

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Another notable building in the town of Hvar is the cathedral of San Stjepan, an imposing structure backing onto the square. The bell tower is made up of four storeys, each one more elaborate than the last. The cathedral was constructed between the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cathedral San Stjepan

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The town's main port on the north-east side of the square, leads to a network of alleyways with small palaces, churches and old houses. From there, you can climb up the park to reach Spanjola, built on the site of a medieval castle to defend the population of the town from the Turks.

The town's main port

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The Spanjola fortress was built to defend the town

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Opposite the Amfora hotel you can find the Dive Centre, an establishment which offers a scubadiving qualification, diving trips and all kinds of water sports (sailing on a banana boat, diving, water skiing) as well as organized trips, where you can rent scooters from Pelegrini Tours.

Near to Hotels Amfora and Dalmacija, there are coves where you can take a dip, but most visitors prefer to go to Pakleni islands (Pakleni Otoci), which owe their success to lapaklma, the resin used on boats and ships. In high season, water taxis usually leave regularly from the arsenal, going to the naturist islands of Jerolim Stipanska (but no one is forced to practice nudism there), and then continue on to Drilicay Palmizana, which is a sandy beach (which makes a change).

The Pakleni islands

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Jerolim beach

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Atlas travel agency and Pelegrini tours organise trips around the island, excursions to islands further afield and rafting outings.

If your trip coincides with the Hvar Summer Music Festival, you will find classical music concerts in the Franciscan monastery and sporadic concerts at the Vira camping site.

As Hvar is one of the most popular destinations in the Adriatic, there are few bargains. Almost all hotels are managed by Suncani Hvar Hotels and I am curious about the number of hotel monopolies in this country; many have undergone a total transformation.

In July and August the number of accommodation places are very limited, despite the many private houses which have been built or renovated to accommodate tourists. It is best to find out from travel agencies. For those of you arriving without a reservation, sometimes at the ferry pier there are people who offer rooms, and you can also see posters scattered all over the town.

If you rent a room or an apartment to someone, you should make sure you have the blue sign displayed, otherwise you will be renting accommodation illegally and, if problems arise, you will be unprotected, I have already said this many times throughout my blog but it's worth saying again. It is very easy to get lost in the labyrinth of unnamed streets in the old town, so you may have to ask the owner of your accommodation for help on the phone. In the center, a single/double room with its own bathroom will cost you the same as a meal in an expensive restaurant in Zagreb hahaha. In low season you can negotiate a discount.

Hvar old town

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If you don't have money, I know some campsites which are worth mentioning, such as Vira campsite, the campsite belonging to Suncani hotel; the facilities are of a rather high standard. It is situated in a beautiful wooded bay and is among the best in Dalmatia. It has a fabulous beach, a lovely cafe and restaurant and a beach volleyball court. Plus the facilities are well maintained and are top notch.

Vira campsite's beach

Vira campsite's on-site restaurant

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The Mala Milna is 2 km southeast of the center and is the closest camping ground to the town. Although small, it is wonderfully located on Milna Bay. As there are few buses, it is advisable to go with your own car. The Jagoda & Ante Bracanovic Guesthouse is also not bad from what I've been told.

If you have a bit more money to spend you have the Hotel Croatia, or the Aparthotel Pharia, which is only 50m from the sea, a gleaming complex in a quiet neighborhood slightly away from the center, towards the west. All rooms and apartments have balconies, some with sea views. As small hotels go, they could not have done better.

Aparthotel Pharia

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If you've got money coming out of your ears I would recommend Hotel Podstine. It's a family hotel (surprisingly, this place is not part of the Suncani Hotels empire), with its own private beach. The interior decor and gardens are delightful and the hotel offers regular shuttles to the town, although they also rent out bikes, mopeds and boats. The cheapest rooms do not have a sea view.

Hotel Riva is one of the oldest but it is luxurious and in the village of Hvar it is still much sought after. This centennial hotel features rooms that combine black, red and white hues with glass partitions separating the bedroom from the bathroom, and large black-and-white posters of movie stars in the rooms. It is situated in the port, ideal for watching the boats come and go.

Hotel Riva

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Hotel Adriana is the only hotel in Croatia which holds a spot in the list for The Leading Small Hotels of the World. With this in mind you can already get an idea of the level of comfort in this hotel. Its fantastic rooms offer views of the sea and medieval city, and there is a spa, it lacks nothing; there's a wonderful rooftop pool next to the bar, Wi-Fi, an exquisite restaurant, excursions, everything you can imagine.

Hotel Adriana

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The gastonomy of Hvar is great, although, as with the hotels, the restaurants mainly cater to wealthy customers.

First off, we have Paradise Garden, which is a restaurant, situated on the steps up from the north face of the cathedral, which serves unforgettable seafood spaghetti, and an excellent traditional selection of fried or grilled fish. The tables are outside, in a patio courtyard.

Konoba Menego is on the staircase above the church of the Holy Spirit (on a steep street), it is an old rustic house which retains its simplicity and authenticity. Everything is decorated with antiques from Hvar, the staff are dressed in a traditional clothes, the service is discreet and communicative, and the marinated meats, cheeses and vegetables are prepared in the same way as they always have been in the region of Dalmatia. The desserts consisting of cheese and figs and the local wines are not to be missed out on.

Luna, with its happy, colourful walls and 'stairs up to the sky' pertaining to the rooftop terrace, Luna is a somewhat excentric place, a breath of fresh air amongst all the traditional restaurants in Hvar. The menu is good, featuring meals such as Gnocchi with truffles, and seafood and pasta with wine.

Luna restaurant

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Macondo is a narrow street on the other side of the main square, a bit expensive but good. The dish combining two fish spreads, octopus salad and anchovies makes for an appetizing starter, which can be followed by fish specialties or a good light meal.

Hvar considers itself one of the best nightlife destinations on the Adriatic coast, mainly for its port. For those who had existential doubts about it.

The Nautika bringing together the latest trends in cocktails and music for non-stop dancing (from techno to hip-hop) this place is a must for the night owl on the Hvar circuit.

Kiva Bar is at the end of the street. This establishment invites you to relax and have a chat between dancing the night away.

Kiva Bar

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Carpe Diem: look no further. This is the oldest of the Croatian coastal clubs. From a refreshing breakfast to the last minute cocktails, this establishment never gets boring. The music is soft, the drinks generous and there are a lot of bikini-clad young people dancing on the tables. Mmm....

The Veneranda is set on a slope that rises above the Hotel Delfín, the setup of this old fort combines renowned DJ shows with live bands performances, while the clientele dance on the path surrounded by a swimming pool.

If you want to bring home something typical of Hvar, you should know that it's only really lavender, lavender and more lavender, which is sold in small or large bottles, jars or pouches. Depending on the of year, you can find anything between 1 and 50 stalls in the port area selling this plant or its derivatives, flooding the port with its fragrance and atmosphere. Oils, potions, face creams and balms are also sold.

Lavanda en Hvar

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You can by Lavender in bottles, jars or little pouches

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I hope that this information was useful to you. Big hugs.

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