Day 3 | Excursion to Prvić island

On our third day and the second on the coast we decided to take a ride on the boat to the island of Prvić and see what the life on the island looks like. There is also the Memorial Centre of Faust Vrančić. More about the Memorial Center itself you can read in my article here.

As you might have already known there are more than thousands of islands within Croatia's border and we are also lucky to have several of them close to Vodice. The closest one that has been inhabited for centuries is the island of Prvić [Parvich].

I already mentioned that from the center of Vodice you can see 2-3 houses on this side of the island. And they are on the slopes of relatively small hill which also hides from us the view on the town of Šepurine.

Since we wanted to sleep at least until 8h the first next boat that we could take was around 10am. I already described the schedule and where you can find one in the mentioned article. The problem is that the ship does not go that often during the day to the island and back. So you have to calculate what you are going to do there as it could get boring quickly if you are not fan of islands and a bit 'slower' life there. You should also pay attention that the shops are not always opened whole day there as it is on the continent. So buy your ingredients earlier as they might get closed already after the lunch time and open later or tomorrow. As for the ship just pay attention when the next one leaves for the other island (the last stop is Šibenik) or back for Vodice.

The ship that has been traditionally for decades serving us every day was Tijat and was very popular by the locals as well. Unfortunately, three months later while being here in Vienna I read the news that after 60 years of service it was going to be retired and replaced by a new model. So Madoka had also had an honour and chance to take a ride on the 'old lady' of this archipelago.

Surprisingly, the ship arrived almost in time. You have to know and pay attention to one thing - in Dalmatia time is relative and the mentality and life is like 'take it easy, slowly..no need to rush'. I told Madoka and my sister that we should go already few minutes earlier to the dock as it was about to get very crowded once maybe 40-50 passengers want to enter the ship and the same amount leaves. And there is only one entrance when they lift or drop the wooden plank to walk on. That is one of the most annoying moments as there are always groups of people who do not know how to behave and just try to be the first ones to enter and do not respect the waiting line.

Also, you should buy the tickets a bit earlier (the problem is the ticket office opens maybe 40 minutes before the departure of the ship) as there can quickly appear 'traffic jam' of 30 people in the waiting line. You do not feel comfortable when you have like 5 minutes before the ship sets off and yet there are 10 people in front of you. Our offices are still far from being what is known as 'efficient'. You cannot reserve the tickets online and when you get there it takes them time to print them.

Now finally aboard the ship! I have no idea what the new ship looks like and will have to find out in 5 months. But we were sitting on the first stage so we can easier get out once we reach the island. The ship turned by 180' and we had a nice view over the western part of Vodice and far to Tribunj, island of Tijat, Logorun and far away Murter etc. We also went to the other side of the ship to take the photographs of the eastern part of the coast where Vodice and Srima merge one into another and far behind you could see the uninhabited road that leads to Jadrija.

We approached the island within 10 minutes and then it took us a few more to our first stop - the port of Šepurine (and town). The ship came in port and we jumped out. Now let the adventures begin!

But first a few words about the island.

• Geography and population

  It is about 1 km away from Vodice and around 15 minutes by boat (Vodice-Šepurine) or within 10 minutes by speedboat. It was probably once connected with the island of Zlarin according to the archeological field and the both also look like siblings when looking at them on the map. The island's coast is about 10 km long and the highest peak is 79m. That is the one we see from our balcony in Vodice.

  The population of the island is estimated to be around 450 people. The two fishermen settlements are port of Šepurine and the port of Prvić Luka (as same as the name of the island). The first settlement is on the western side of the island whereas the second one on the south-eastern in a small bay and looks towards Zlarin and the open sea. They are connected with a 1km long road which we were also going to take later.

  The thinnest part of the island is at Šepurine. Technically, you have to climb up the narrow streets a little bit until you reach the fields (private gardens of course) and then you are in the middle of this part. It takes approximately 10 minutes to get to the other side of the island. Once in the middle, there are 3 paths leading to the north-east (our choice), north-west to the highest peak and the road back that we took which will take you back to the center of Šepurine. On the other side of Prvić there is a small beach but also several houses built recently (in the last half of a century). You can see Srima which is 700-1000m distant.

  Prvić Luka might be slightly bigger place than Šepurine though I think the concentration today is more around Šepurine. Šepurine are more centralized whilst Prvić Luka is longitudinal along the bay.

  Both of them are the typical traditional settlements on the coast with strong Mediterranean influence that can be seen in architecture and use of the space. Stone houses, churches and belfry in the center, narrow streets... surrounded by the forests and the beautiful bright sky-blue sea. It sure is a heaven and many swimmers who seek peace and quiet prefer to visit Prvić rather than staying at crowded and loud Vodice. Not to mention that the islands are much more cleaner than the popular tourist destinations on the continent. Unfortunately, it has been also changing last years as I find garbage being thrown away on the islands as well. What surprised me that some person put the plastic bag of the chips into one hole in a tree in the center of Šepurine... trying to hide it there while the trash can was maybe within 20 m... or you could simply put it into your bag and carry it with yourself until you find the trash can.

• History & economy

  Just like many other places the island's first inhabitants date back to the Ancient Romans and Greeks. But speaking of Croats I could tell you a few things starting with the Medieval Ages. It was the period when mostly the noble families from Šibenik were the inhabitants of the islands (and this was also the normal thing on the other islands - the upper classes would have villas on the islands and spend their time there). However though, the biggest wave of migration was during the threat of the Ottoman Empire so people were running away and founded Šepurine and Prvić. Also, the name Prvić comes from the 'prvi / parvi' meaning 'the first'.. and Prvić is indeed the first island to Vodice and Srima.

  Prvić held a record of the most densely inhabited island with around 1300 citizens per km2 at the beginning of the 20th century but as you can see the population decreased and still has been. During the Second World War many islanders joined the partisan armies. You will notice many monuments glorifying the local heroes.

  Speaking of what the people do there... well, similar like elsewhere in Dalmatia. Fishing, vineculture, olives.. and tourism. If I am right, there is only one hotel left on the island but people rather offer their own apartments. I am not sure and do not know honestly how many and how much the rooms are booked there in summer. But there are several bars and restaurants in both Šepurine and Prvić. Each of them has at least one shop. Otherwise people go to Vodice to buy the desired supplements.

  During the hot summer days you will not find many locals roaming around. They stay at home within the four walls where it is also cooler (the advantage of stone walls used in the construction).

  The universal problem with all the islands in Croatia and Prvić is no exception... is that they are being depopulated, deserted... the young leave for the continent to live in the bigger cities, the elderly stay, there are no new families.... only those who come few times a year and maybe interested diaspora who have the roots there, their ancestors. I think this is a serious problem and am not sure that the government is doing well to prevent the islands from getting deserted.

We decided to go for a swim right after leaving the ship. Luckily, the beach was just 60 seconds away. We sat under the shadows (traditionally) and soon jumped into the sea. Now, this is a very unique and special experience when you can enjoy the warm sea, clear and clean water on the island. One of the best feelings definitely ever is diving in and out when you feel the water going down your body and the warm rays of sun on your face. Struggling and coping with all the problems throughout the year absolutely pays off just to have this pleasure later. But it is very difficult on the last day to leave it... since you won't see it for the next couple of months.. or almost a year. Huh, makes me feel nostalgic and nervous already thinking about it. But back to our story.

I took Madoka on a little tour to the center of Šepurine so she can see what it looks like. Walking bare foot was maybe not the best idea as I had to jump all the time, the ground was so hot it hurt. We took the photographs of the typical houses with green, blue or orange windows which always look lovely and irresistable to take photos of. And went in front of the church. Waddling around the narrow streets we left for the upcoming days when going to visit Šibenik, Split and Zadar.

Šepurine as a film location

Screenshot from the film 'The priest's children'

You might as well be surprised that Šepurine were used as a location for one of the most successful films in Croatian cinematography since the independence! The film 'The priest's children' from V. Brešan, its main part, took place on one nameless Dalmatian island. While watching the film (but without prior knowledge of details of location) some streets and buildings such as the belfry and the riviera, but the islands of Tijat and the rest looked pretty familiar.

My doubts were cleared when I saw the VD (Vodice) letters on the boat and compared the screenshot from the film with some of my own pictures (and then the moment of joy happened! ).

The plot of this mixture of comedy is actually based largely on the problem I already mentioned above - the depopulation of the islands- here. Besides this main problem and the trigger for the actions that happened, the film is making fun of the nationalism and mocking the Catholic Church. The film was a huge success, there have not been many negative critics except for the Church of course (and it was forbidden in some rectories) or the believers were advised not to watch it as it is 'against the traditional Croatian values'. I highly recommend it to you if you want to get a bit of the mentality (as it also makes fun of the stubborn islanders) in general. You can watch the trailer.

Visiting Privć Luka

Now we packed and decided to take the road that led to Prvić Luka. It took us maybe 15 minutes until we got to the center of the next port. On our way there we had to climb again a bit and then go down. From both of our sides was the dense vegetation and kind of forest. You are also going to pass by the local cemetery.

Now we entered Prvić Luka. Our goal was to first to go the Memorial Center of Faust Vrančić and use an hour or more to swim and relax before going back home. We were walking through the main and the only street there for about 5-7 minutes until we got to 'the center' and found the port, restaurants and the Memorial Center. We waited for Madoka to see the exhibition (I have a special article about it, click on my profile). If you do know not what is this place about - it is dedicated to the Croatian inventor Faust Vrančić (16th century) who was a very important figure back in the time, not just an inventor but a linguist and a humanist. He spent his childhood on this island though born in Šibenik. And died in Venice. He is most notable for the (maybe) invention of the parachute.

What to do before the ship's arrival

After taking photos there we went walking 10-15 minutes to the other side of the bay which was half in the shadows and had also part to enter the sea and swim. As usual, we stopped at our traditional place which is always free and stepped into the water. Again the beautiful feeling. There were sea-urchins around but the locals made the entrance-stairs go over them so both they and we do not get hurt. Now you can enjoy the view over the Prvić Luka and lots of boats and small ships around it.

Since once we missed the ship for another island some year ago I did not want us to miss the next one so after sleeping half an hour we returned slowly back to the Memorial Center and the port.

Btw, you can continue walking on both sides of the bay and you will end up in the forest. There is a road that leads you through the bushes and trees. On the south-western side of the island you will suddenly come to an open place with rocks and have a view towards the distant islands and the open sea. A few of the locals can be found there occasionally who want to be left alone. I have been here but not on the eastern part of the bay though there are also rocks, yet different form the western counterpart. We went once only while waiting for the ship and rested on the huge rocks with our towels below.

Soon our ship came and we did not want to stay until 18h on the island. We ate also all the food and wanted to feel safe at home with the full fridge and refreshing drink. Time to say goodbye to Prvić until the next summer.

Back in Vodice

Back home we went later again to the beach including our dog all of us swam together. After the dinner it was time to prepare for our next destination tomorrow. Before sleep we went for a walk to the center to see Vodice during the night but without thousands of people from the festival yesterday. And you could notice the change, as said, the town seemed to be half empty now. After the concerts at Vodiška fešta the number of tourists drops and if you prefer not to spend your holidays in very crowded area, after 5th August is the period you need. We went to make a circle around Hotel Punta and the beach there which we were going to check the other days. This part of Vodice used to be very popular decades earlier but the things have changed recently. During the night there are lots of open cafes and some restaurants, very popular among the youth who gather there. There is this Plava plaža (Blue beach) with sand and is pretty shallow so you can walk maybe 50 m off the shore and still be able to hold your head above the surface. Now, time to go back home to sleep as tomorrow is a new day!

We were going to see the 'City of Kings' - Šibenik. And we also had some nice surprises there. More about it soon in Day 4.

Thanks for reading.

Some photo credits to Lucija Šutić and Josipa Petrov.

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