My top 5 - Aperitivo

During my Erasmus time in Milano I must have done the famous “Aperitivo” at least 20 times... No joke! More than being an Italian tradition, doing Aperitivo in Milano in particular has become a cultural phenomenon.

The context of aperitivo itself used to be associated with having a liquorish drink and a little appetizer before a meal, in an “old way” that is still practiced in many countries, including my own, Portugal. Back in the 1800’s – 1900’s, the environment of cafés was quite popular amongst the intellectual society – politicians, artists, philosophers, writers, etc – where ideas would be discussed over a beverage and literally some olives, lupines or peanuts. In Italy, some of their own iconic liquors were mandatory requests, such as the Vermut or the Campari, and new cocktails started to be diffused as well, including the Negroni, the Americano, the Martini (of every kind), the Bellini and Rossini, and the ever so famous Aperol Spritz.

Cheers! Having Bellini. (Photo taken by me in July 2018).

Nevertheless, the current concept of Aperitivo, mostly celebrated in the Northern region of Italy, stands a completely different scenario.

Picking up on the idea of the American “Happy Hour”, Aperitivo saw its start in Milano during the 80’s-90’s, a time when the city was market targeted for its appealing social environment much emphasized with the publicity stunt “Milano da bere”. As stated with the slogan, the city is “reborn every morning, pumps like a heart; Milano is positive, optimistic, efficient; Milano is to live, to dream and to enjoy”, which stands still as a perfect description of Milano nowadays.

In this sense, Aperitivo began to be about getting together with people after work and before dinner, whether in a bar/café or at home, to enjoy a drink and some finger food. Because many times this happy hour would get extended, even substituting dinner, the Italians colloquially started to jest using the mixed word “Apericena”.

Accordingly, all Aperitivo places these days offer the combination “cocktail with all-you-can-eat buffet included”, generally from 18. 00 to 23. 00, for a fixed price that goes from €5 to €15. If you want, you can get more drinks at their normal listed price; but the food is always for free and coming in large amounts from the kitchen to satisfy numerous eager folks!

Not only for the Milanese, but also for the millions of tourists that visit Milano monthly, Aperitivo is a quintessential social activity. Family, friends, lovers, co-workers; whatever their social and economic context... Aperitivo is for all people.

Naviglio Grande by night. One of the areas in Milano where Aperitivo takes place. (Photo taken by me in February 2018).

Obviously, I do not know all the places in Milano, but I tried to go to different ones as much as possible so I would have a proper list of favorites. All those I list here are definitely amazing, whether for a casual evening, a birthday party or a pre-night out!

And despite being always very much in-demand, especially for tourists, Navigli is not the only area of “La Movida Milanese” with places for Aperitivo! For instances, I highly recommend to look around Corso Como, Corso Sempione and Porta Romana, because you can find many other places just as cool and serving tasty food, with the advantage of being a little bit less crowded. Which is always a plus since no one wants to go out for dinner having to fight for food...

It is worth mentioning as well that multiple places host entertaining events (usually after the Aperitivo hours) such as live music (e. g. Maison Milano ), karaoke (e. g. Palo Alto Cafè) or turning into a nightclub (e. g. Loolapaloosa, Old Fashion), which has become a very appealing arrangement for both the “older” crowd and Erasmus students. Indeed, a key Erasmus guideline is: “If it is free or holds a special deal, then we are in for it! ”.

The choices truly are extensive. Besides the offers posted on Facebook or Whatsapp groups for the Erasmus community, you can search online for good-reviewed and interesting Aperitivo places and make a run for it. That is how I got my repertoire broaden and how I am able to recommend some places better than others.

And with this said, here is my top 5!

PS: I decided not to include that many pictures in this article because you can just search online for the places and scroll through an immensity of photos that people have shared regarding the locations, the food and the drinks.

5. Spritz - Naviglio Grande

This was one of the last Aperitivo places that I tried during Erasmus and I was super excited for it because I had read many amazing reviews. Milano in June was horribly hot and crowed with tourists, so we went to Navigli early on to make sure we would not have to wait long. Aperitivo time here is from 18. 00 to 22. 00, so it is advisable to arrive between 19. 00 and 20. 00 in order to get a table and enjoy the evening relaxed.

I loved the cocktails here! I do not remember what I got (only that it was very savory), but my friend ordered the Hugo – made with syrup of Sambuco flower (elderflower) or balm mint – and from the even better taste of it I wished I had asked for it too… It felt really fresh, but not super sweet, so it was perfect for that warm night. In fact, from then on, I consider it one of my favorite cocktails!

The buffet is filled with all the yummy food we want to stuff ourselves with in an Aperitivo, mixing everything and more, going from different pasta to lasagna to chicken curry, roasted peppers and eggplant to pizza, to all kinds of cheese, ham and Italian salumi, and many vegetables at choice...

You get full just by looking at all the options, including the desserts, and even though you think you are going to have everything, you will actually always go for the same things... That turned out to be the major Aperitivo lesson – select what appeals more to you and that you know is effectively good and repeat it.

(Photo taken by me in June 2018).

As all the places with happy-hour in Navigilo Grande, Spritz has a nice outside area, but the inside is not that big and it gets tight in the corridors with all the people entering and exiting plus the waiters running around. The atmosphere is quite cool though, and it is humorous to see the employees wearing “I love Spritz” shirts in honor of the house and their Aperol Spritz specialty.

All and all, Spritz is undeniably a very good choice because the quantity is well balanced with the quality and the price (€10), and you can get the sense of what “Apericena” truly means. From the infinite places along Naviglio Grande for Aperitivo, this is for sure one of the most compelling.

4. Deseo - Arco della Pace

Deseo is the archetype of “Aperitivo elegante” in Milano. In my opinion, it is probably the most fashionable and refined place offering Aperitivo in the city, not only because of the contemporary design in art déco style, but also in regard to its unique, posh atmosphere.

(Photo taken by me in February 2018).

The place is open all day, serving as well breakfast and lunch (and obviously brunch on the weekends), but by night it gains a certain exclusive ambiance. Nevertheless, the requested price for the Aperitivo is about the same as everywhere else (€11), so it almost feels like you are not paying enough… Aperitivo time is from 18. 30 to 22. 00, but you can always stay longer for another drink and enjoy yourself at this stylish place.

As expect from such ante, the buffet is top-notch in terms of quality! More than serving finger food, Deseo puts out full-on meat dishes – I remember being delighted with the roasted chicken with mashed potatoes – as well as the classic Italian favorites like lasagna, pasta and pieces of focaccia, presented with great finesse. It only fails regarding two things: the variety/quantity of food is not that large; and even if they serve some mixed salads, more vegetarian options would be nice. However, several tasty desserts are included, which is always a good thing coming.

Besides the impeccable taste of the food, the cocktails are very well served (and the list is huge, covering all the classics and also some specials with Amaretto di Saronno), solidifying the status of Deseo as a must-go Aperitivo in Milano. I definitely want to go back because having been there just one time does not seem right!

With a drink on your hand, it is the perfect place to catch up or gossip with friends, where you can comfortably chill after work or classes but with a glam touch to it! The lounge area has multiple extremely inviting sofas, and everything is set at large, so you do not feel smothered by other people. I would say that the mood is a little bit more to the “grown-up” side, but it only adds to its appeal.

And what to say about Corso Sempione… It is crazy lively, full of bars and restaurants, and always stage of the popular Milanese hangouts!

3. Manhattan - Naviglio Grande

Back to Naviglio Grande, closer to Porta Ticinese, we have another fantastic choice for Aperitivo, sponsored by Manhattan. The name sounds good from the start – fancy is the word that comes up – and the place does have a certain VIP vibe that stands out from all the other happy hour places nearby.

The outside area is what attracted me the most because it looked super cosy and put together in a way that made it look as if we were in a private interior garden. At least this is what I fondly remember… It was still a little bit cold that month, so they had those hanging heaters turned on and when my friend and I sat on the sofa, we just felt completed; we were in to relax after a day trip to the Lake and simply appreciate what Navigli has best to offer.

Aperitivo time here is from 18. 00 to 22. 00, but because this area is so popular - all places get super crowded - you need to arrive between 19. 00 and 20. 00 if you want to find a nice spot to sit in Manhattan.

The cocktails came and we were just wowed. I asked for the Russian Julep (vodka, ginger ale, lime, sugar), which I found delicious, and my friend for the Jamaican Julep (white rum, dark rum, ginger ale and fresh fruit), and I can guarantee that I had never seen a drink that size. See for yourself...

(Photo taken by me in March 2018).

Their list of drinks is more than reasonable, and it is certainly well complemented with the delightful buffet at display. Such variety, such quality… Serving both warm and cold options, all you see is trays after trays of good-looking food.

There is something for everyone: amazing finger food with many antipasto options – prosciutto, bresaola, mortadella are great amongst the salumi; mozzarella with little tomatoes is always a must; and every other salty component you can think of, you find it – but also several composed dishes, whether lasagna, pasta or roasted beef with potatoes, and a large number of veggie alternatives, including a super tasty sautéed vegetables mix.

Almost mandatory to make it a complete Apericena, the desserts served at Manhattan (which are just as good as everything else) give you the sweet you need to leave happily satisfied.

Without a doubt, Manhattan should be on everyone’s top 5 list of Aperitivo! From my perspective, it is the best place by the margins of Naviglio Grande, where you can be sure to spend the right price for all that what you get (€10), with quality above average. It does not get any better... Or does it?

2. Madeira - Porta Romana

I mean, I was here 3 times... That says it all right! What I love about Madeira more than anything is the stylish, inviting atmosphere inspired by the underground scene. It has a young feel to it (but not as if you would see teenagers there) and you are definitely in for a pleasant evening.

The place is quite spacious – two floors inside besides the outside area – and with several types of sitting, whether at the counter or around big tables, so it is both adequate for Aperitivo with just a friend or in a group. The waiters are very friendly and even if you have to wait a bit - Aperitivo time is from 18. 30 to 22. 00 but it gets pretty busy after 20. 30 - they are quick in serving you the requested drinks right after.

Madeira is the classical Aperitivo Milanese because the buffet presents a wide selection of good finger food that in its essence is simple and suitable for all tastes. It has quite a few, and not so ordinary, veggie options, including a variety of warm and cold salads, and many roasted or raw vegetables. It serves pasta and lasagna, as well as polenta and potatoes, which can be a side dish for meatballs, würstel or prosciutto if you would like a “meaty” component. The cheese board is excellent, not forgetting the many fruit options.

On the weekend, there is the dessert buffet to top the meal, which includes a number of tasty and original cakes, for instances pumpkin flavored sponge cake or wild berries cheesecake.

As important, they are well known for their cocktails! I tried the Moscow Mule, the Rossini and the Bellini, and I found them well prepared, going nicely with the food. I very much suggest these three options, but their list is long, so if you want to stay a bit longer after Aperitivo and have another drink, the bar service is highly keen.

(Photo taken by me in March 2018).

All around, Madeira is just a really great place! I recommend it a million times, and even the friends I took there have recommended it as well to other people, which just goes to say how much of a success it is. The ratio quality-price is one of the best (normally €8, on the weekend €10), and you will not get disappointed!

Plus, Porta Romana is a lovely, thrilling area, being one of my favorite places in Milano. There is just a magical energy floating in the air...

1. MAYA - Naviglio Pavese

This is, hands down, the best place for Aperitivo in Milano! I dare anyone to argue that! I went there at least three times and I cannot wait to go again. It is that place that will definitely make you feel nostalgic; the only place that you will always have to go to when in Milano.

It offers an outstanding conjugation of concept and design – inspired in the Mayan civilization – with an electrifying atmosphere and superb quality of food and cocktails. For this reason, it gets really packed early in the evening, particularly in the Spring/Summer, so you want to be there around 19. 30 - Aperitivo time is from 18. 00 to 22. 30. The space inside is enormous, and well decorated, and the outside tables are just as inviting.

And if you think that it will be more expensive than usual, you area dead wrong! The price is as normal as it gets: for €11 at Maya you will be enchanted with everything available...

I do not even know where to start with the buffet description because it is just out of this world… It is beyond rich! It has such a large variety of alluring food that you feel overwhelmed just looking at it. There is no point in listing the main things, because it simply has everything. And I mean everything; for all tastes, all specificities, all desires. The idea is to combine Mediterranean cuisine with the exotic Mexican vibe, which is perfectly accomplished.

The best thing is that the buffet is differently renewed during the evening, so you get even more dishes at your choice! If you manage to stay hungry for a couple of hours… Because you will get easily full by the end of the “first-round”... The Aperitivo also includes several desserts and one of the top attractions, a chocolate fountain! Besides the buffet itself, Maya provides a restaurant menu “a la carte” filled with drooling Mexican offers.

(Photo taken by me in July 2018).

The list of cocktails is insane, with over 100 options from the classics to their own creations, so you will actually have a problem in deciding what to drink! Last time I was there I asked for the Mexican “Matador” and I was pleasantly surprised by its sweetness and how the tequila was not too strong, so it was a great choice! However, people have pointed out, and I have also tasted, that sometimes they prepare the cocktails too intense on the alcohol, so my advice would be to talk to the waiters before ordering blindly.

On a curiosity note, they have launched a really cool app with 3D graphic design for you to explore the many cocktails available and select you favorites, and also register and share the moments you spend at Maya. I already installed it!

At Maya you will be satisfied to all extents! I organized my birthday party there and the staff was super kind managing to fit 25 people (which was not an easy number to accommodate), and I can vouch that everyone had a great time and loved the Aperitivo!

You can rest assure that Aperitivo never goes wrong at Maya!

Undisputed number one award!

That is it!

I have given you some of my best Erasmus tips about Aperitivo in Milano, but there is one place in Corso Como where I am dying to go, called Chinese Box, that I am pretty sure will need to have a spot on this list...

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