Under the Auroras - a detour through Tromso

It was around the 20th of February 2018, just short of two months after I arrived in Norway, that I decided to pay a visit to the city which had drawn me to this country: Tromso.

Tromso is located in the "county" of Troms, in the far north of Norway. It is therefore deep into the Arctic circle. It is also the departure point for expeditions to the Svalbard Islands, the place of dreams for ice and polar bear enthusiasts.

As I mentioned, it was this very special place that had particularly attracted me to Norway and for good reason: it is an ideal observation zone for the Aurora Borealis.

A huge culture shock

In Tromso, everything is extreme and overwhelming. The city, located on an island linked to the mainland by a bridge, is surrounded by both sea and mountains. In every direction you drive, you will have an infinite sparkling ocean on one side and on the other, rocky mountains, covered with snow all year round.

It was whilst driving in the direction of Tromvik, to the north-west of the city, that I got the most incredible glimpse of the horizon. Between two mountains I could see the sea spread further and further until it merged with the sky in the distance.

Well, I can't tell you about the landscapes without mentioning the colours that cover the water and earth. All day (short ones in winter) the mountains glisten in dazzling white and contrast with the dark water. Then, for several minutes, you can witness a "golden hour, ", in which the sun begins to set and its reflection off the ice lights up the valley. Finally, before night falls, the mountains, sky and water are all tainted rose and the landscape becomes surreal, like something from your wildest imagination. On the road to the Sommaroy Islands, alongside the sea, you will be treated to the most beautiful spectacle. It is difficult not to stop the car every 200m to photograph the unrivalled views on offer.

Unique experiences

It was close to the Sommaroy Islands, that I had one of the most remarkable experiences of my trip. I had said I would, so I did it: I bathed in the glacial Arctic Ocean. The place and the moment were perfect. But even the beauty of the place could not distract from the cold which bites at your skin when you remove your coat and the three pullovers underneath. It was -15°C outside and 4°C in the water. I wouldn't say it was an intelligent idea but I was craving a challenge...... So if you are also seeking thrills, here are some rules to respect if you want to give this experience a go:

• You mustn't stay in the water for more minutes than the temperature of the water. For example: 4°C = 4 minutes . Although I took 10 seconds.....
• Eat well beforehand but be careful: wait at least two hours afterwards before getting in the water
• Get your neck and chest wet before jumping
• Be sure of your abilities and ask someone to stay out the water to watch you. Also be careful of the depth.
• Dry yourself well and wrap up fast immediately after. Don't wait to warm up.
• Check your feet several minutes after the swim. The cold can be numbing and it is possible that you won't feel anything even if you cut yourself.
• In case of a problem, particularly a rush of blood, call for help, at least to ask for advice.
• If you can: find yourself a cameraman. Otherwise nobody will believe you!

My second noteworthy experience in the Great North: it was the first time that I had walked on a lake of ice, or more precisely, a fjord that was totally frozen at the edges. As with the swimming, walking on frozen lake requires certain precautions:

• Make sure that the ice is strong enough (for example by watching to see if the locals venture there)
• Don't tempt the devil: once you are on the ice don't stray far from the edges
• Don't jump on the ice, and don't move around in large groups.

Finally, the last experience but not the least: the Aurora Borealis. It was the reason I went to Tromso, and I was especially lucky because they were visible every evening! The first time I saw them, they caused me to stop on the road: long white trails illuminated the sky, and fluttered softly all across the valley from one mountain to another. We then took the cable cars to the Tromso viewpoint and there, they were all around us, blazing. The lights of the city dulled them a bit, but we were still able to enjoy them. The next time we saw them, they surprised us when we were driving back to our accommodation. Finally, while we were on the plane to go home, the cabin crew turned off the lights and asked us to look out of the windows: We were surrounded by lights. I had dreamed about this all day but I never believed it would actually happen. It was at that moment that I knew I had to come back. I also have some advice regarding the auroras:

• Get away from the city and sources of light, in order to see them better, even if, as I said earlier, being above Tromso won't stop you from seeing these beautiful lights
• The season for auroras tends to be between November and March. I saw them in February and some friends saw them at the ends of November and January.
• If the sky is covered you have less chance of seeing them, however, near the ocean, the sky can change quickly so keep an eye on it.
• Don't expect to see green flames in the sky! Instead, watch for halos of slightly green white light.
• If you take photos: You'll need to be in a space as open as possible, and stay still for a while so use a tripod, or try to be as stable as possible.

To summarise these experiences, if you are someone fairly calm and steady Tromso is also a city for you. It's not for nothing that it is called the most northern cultural centre of the Arctic Circle! Several museums can be found in the town centre. I went to the contemporary art museum, which is small, but has a very beautiful collection, and the Polar Museum which traces the history of the trappers, particularly on the Svalbard Islands. It was a really enriching visit. In short, something for everybody!

The Practical Details

For this trip, I stay in an Air Bnb 40 minutes out of the city. There are also plenty in the city centre. The price can climb quickly, but if you book well in advance, they tend to be pretty affordable.

To make the most of your travels in the north, I think that a car is indispensable. There are many rental sites and agencies can be found at the airport (particularly Sixt et Europcar). Be careful when you rent a car: in addition to the rental price that you pay on arrival, the agency requires a substantial deposit paid by card (600 euros in my case. Check therefore that your budget allows for this, without requiring you to starve for the rest of your stay. For a place such as Tromso, it is always best if the car is fitted with snow tyres. I would also recommend you take out insurance for scratches and damage from gravel, because the roads are not always in a good state.

When it comes to eating locally, I can only advise you to shop at the supermarket and cook at your accommodation. You may be able to afford a restaurant but the price can quickly pose a problem. To give you an idea, the price of a hot chocolate at Sommaroy, after my cold dip, cost me 7 euros....... Otherwise, fast food is a more affordable option.

Last of all, I should discuss what clothing to wear in the great North. Whatever the season, it is important to bring something to cover yourself because the temperatures can become very low very quickly. At the end of February it is around -15°C with extremes of -21°C and -7°C for the warmer days. Moreover, you will always have your feet in the snow. Here is a list of what I brought/the basics:

• Shoes/socks: good, waterproof and sturdy walking shoes, are essential. No need to break the bank for them however. I bought a pair for 80 euros at Decathlon which kept my feet sufficiently warm and dry. Think about getting the next size up to allow room for ski socks/woolen socks. Be careful: contrary to popular thought, it is not necessary to pile on several pairs of socks. That risks compressing your foot and cutting off the circulation.
• Bottoms: I always wore woolen leggings or running leggings under my big ski trousers. Sure, it takes up room and can feel ridiculous, but I promise you that it is necessary. Thinner waterproof trousers will be sufficient if you spend all day in town.
• Tops: This is the funniest part. Its important to follow the onion technique which is proven to be very efficient. I went for the following combination: vest + merino t-shirt (thin wool: I strongly recommend you have two or three, it's a fantastic material) + pullover/sweater + coat. For the coat, I really invested in a quality brand. Find something warm, waterproof, long and with a hood.
• Accessories: vital! For temperatures like these you have to start by covering all your extremities. Therefore, I had: thin under-gloves (silk gloves/running gloves) + big ski gloves for the hands; woolen hat with a fleece interior for the ears. I also had a balaclava (less cumbersome than a scarf) for covering the top of my neck, mouth and nose. Additionally, I'd advise you to take with you some sunglasses for protecting your eyes against the reflection off the snow.

I think I have given you the tour now, which brings me to my last few words. For me, I was not able to do dog sledding, or hiking on glaciers or a boat tour to see the whales during my stay. And even if you can add more experiences to the adventure, they shouldn't be restrictive. If you don't have the means now, you can go back later. In the meantime, go, calmly follow the road and, for a first visit, there will be enough to do. Be careful: 5 days in Tromso was enough for me to start questionning my career path and my entire life. Happy travelling!

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