Seville, A Love Affair

Last December I decided to give an Erasmus experience a go, following the recommendations of one of my professors who's from Seville, and spend a year in this city which, before then, was completely unknown to me.

I landed on a scorching day in Summer on this small patch of Spanish land which would be my new home for the next 10 months. My foot had barely touched Andalusian soil when I came to the immediate conclusion that I would like this land, this capital city, with her customs and residents. Seville, I fell in love with you. It was love at first sight.

I come from a town in the North of France where nice weather and heat are long forgotten, so when I arrived in Seville it was a completely different story. Here, in this city, the weather is always beautiful. In the 10 months I spent there it only rained for 30 days. From its radiant sun to its blue sky, the capital Andalusia wraps you in warmth. Waking up to stunningly beautiful weather every day immediately puts you in a good mood and makes you want to wander the streets.

That's another thing about Seville, its a capital city that you can explore on foot. Its nothing like the bigger cities which are blocked and polluted by traffic. It's a city that you can principally move around on foot. Many of the roads are closed off to car and are only accessible by pedestrians and horse-drawn carriages.

Speaking of horse-drawn carriages, it is one of the distinctive characteristics that add to the charm of this city. The sound of horse's hooves echo and give rhythm to life in Seville. In the centre, near the cathedral, you can find them in their dozens. They offer to bring you on a short tour of the capital's main attractions. It's perfect for a date or a family day out.

Seville seduced me with its numerous little paved, narrow roads. That's virtually all there is in the city centre. Its quite difficult to get your bearings at the beginning but after a little bit of time you adapt and it's much easier to access. What also makes it so charming, is also its floral and exotic side. It is beautiful to be in a large city that possess beautiful green spaces, magnificent parks, shrub and flowering tree-lined alley-ways, as well as its famous orange trees.

Seville is brimming with beautiful spaces, but my favourite, is the 'Maria Luisa Park' just beside the 'Plaza de España'. This park is just perfect, whether you're meeting friends, having a pick-nick, walking in the shaded spaces or even reading while listening to the bird-song. The incredible 'Plaza de España' is also never overlooked by young couples taking wedding photos.

Of course, Seville doesn't only have two spaces, there's plenty more places to visit. The splendid, majestic, and immense Cathedral, for example.

The gardens of the 'Real Alcazár' are breathtaking with their unique architecture and their Arab style, because Seville, itself, is a city very much influenced by muslim culture. A culture that can be found in the architecture of certain monuments.

'Las Setas' is a bizarre monument that many don't know much about, but it makes up an important part of the Seville landscape. Certain people say that the structure is reminiscent of giant mushrooms, but everyone has their own opinion. Still, once at the top you have a view of the whole city which is perfect to admire the sunset from, and at night the building is illuminated to show it off in all its glory.

In Spain, it's hard to overlook that religion is prominently featured. In Seville, the catholic religion is the most common even though the muslim religion is seen in equal measure in certain buildings. It is therefore impossible to visit Seville and not take the time to visit some of the churches. You will be spoilt for choice! One of my favourites, situated in a neighbourhood with which it, needless to say, shares its name, is 'La Basilica de la Macarena'. Lavishly decorated, the inside is just magnificent.

Finally, to finish this mini tour of places you absolutely have to see, take time to stop on the banks of the 'Guadalquivir' to admire the sunset, or to share a drink with friends with the bonus view of the numerous bridge that span the city.

Seville, a City of Peculiarity.

On the topic of peculiarity, I will talk about three things: La Feria, La Semana Santa, and El Garlochi.

La Feria: The most eagerly-awaited event of the year by the inhabitants of Seville. It is such a substantial event that during the week daily life is almost at a stand still, and of course, there aren't any classes during this time.

In a normally deserted location on the periphery of the city, thousands of 'casetas' are erected for a week, as well as a carousel fair. During the week, life is a party of sharing, Sevillian dancing, and good times. A unique atmosphere in a timeless setting. The horses have their manes braided and their coats gleaming, the carriages are decorated in flowers, the women are dressed up in their most beautiful Sevillian dress, and the men, in their most handsome suit. La Feria is a tradition. It is unique to see but the locals value it above anything else. It's even better if you know someone who can get you into one of the private 'casetas' so that you can really understand and make the most of this celebration.

La Semana Santa: Whether you're a believer or even totally atheist, it is impossible to remain impassive during this second major event which gives rhythm to the Sevillian year. If, like me, you come from a secular country where religion doesn't really play a part in life, La Semana Santa will leave you speechless.

The first time that I saw a simple procession - because it is necessary to know that processions happen all the time throughout the year - was three days after my arrival in Seville, and I can tell you, I was asking myself where the hell was I. A procession, to put it simply, is when people go by carrying a religious figure, the Virgin Mary or Christ (but more often than not Mary), taking it from one church to the other. The procession can be big or small, either with with or without a fanfare. Every procession has its own code to respect. Be it quiet, sad, or joyous, there is an equally different set way of dressing. La Semana Santa is exactly that. An entire week where processions go by, night and day, all over the city. And one could say that certain ones will leave you speechless. The emotion you feel sends shivers down your spine. There was one procession where hundreds of people arrived in the street to talk and drink while they waited for the Virgin Mary, who was carried on a mans back, to make her entrance. When that moment came, an intense silence fell on the crowd. You held your breath. Everyone kept quiet, and then the drummers started to sing and everyone could breathe again and return to their activities. It was magic. The processions give you this little electric charge of emotions with some people even crying during them.

Of course, it's a sight to see but once in your life is enough. The processions aren't only emotional, the whole city is blocked and it is takes you around one hour to travel 100 metres if you find yourself in the middle of one of them, and then be careful, because even though you may not be a believer and not care about all that, you have to be respectful.

The inhabitants of Seville take this week very seriously, even the non believers. With regards the unusual information, during La Semana Santa you can witness the processions from a front row seat by reserving a chair where you can be sure that no one will spoil your view. However, you will have to put your hand in your wallet because to reserve a good seat can cost you a couple of hundred euros!

El Garlochi: It is a bar situated in the Alfalfa neighbourhood, and it is a right of passage for those visiting Seville. I discovered this bar thanks to my friend who had told me about it. I went out of curiosity one evening with friends and the trip was not a disappointment. You open the doors to the bar and you enter into another world, which is, admittedly, a slightly seedy one. Religious figures are everywhere, paintings, tableaus, not a single nook is spared. As you are ordering a drink you can sample 'The Blood of Christ', and yes, that is the name of an alcoholic beverage. There is a strange atmosphere that never leaves you at ease. Some appreciate it and some don't but, I know for me, I didn't repeat the experience too many times.

There you have what was my first impression of Seville. This city is really a firm favourite. It is unique and marvellous and you feel right a home. It is a good place to live. I'm already dreaming of returning.

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