Kadıköy ~ Your New Favorite "Semt"

"Semt" in Turkish really translates to "neighborhood." Because Istanbul is such a large city, you end up identifying a lot of areas by neighborhood. For example, Beşiktaş is a key neighborhood where many students spend their time, as the food is cheap and there are lots of fun places to hang out with friends. 

But one "semt" that you need to put on your radar is Kadikoy. Situated on the Asian side of Istanbul and accessible by ferry, bus, metrobus, or dolmus, Kadikoy has a special place in many hearts. It borders the Sea of Marmara and has a long coastline or "sahil", perfect for wandering with the sun on your shoulders.

Even though I lived for 3 years in Rumelihisarustu, which is a small section of Besiktas and the area surrounding Bogazici University, I would regularly travel to Kadikoy to enjoy its hipster vibe, great coffee shops, and quiet back streets. It feels uniquely European in many ways, and you will notice that people feel a bit more free in this area. Unlike Uskudar, which is known for being very conservative, in Kadikoy you will notice that the dress standards are more lax and there are a lot of young people on the streets. There are bars and coffee shops, and also traditional Turkish stores and food markets.

Because of my love for Kadikoy and my need to have a relaxing day off, I started choosing a Saturday each month last year and dubbing it my "Mahatma Mu" Saturday. You'll understand the name from my routine below:

10:00 - Grab my backpack, computer, and notebook and head to the Metrobus to Sogutlucesme. 

11:00 - Walk from Sogutlucesme and head towards the water in Kadikoy. Enjoy peering at all the wedding dresses that fill the windows in this area of Kadikoy, and make sure that I don't get hit while crossing streets (very important).

11:15 - Arrive at Cafe Mu. Order a soy milk latte (comes in a tiny glass cup) and find a relaxing seat. Take out my laptop or notebook and do some creative writing to the soothing soundtrack of jazz music. Watch the people go by on the quiet street outside, and enjoy seeing bread being delivered to the local bakeries via a scooter truck. 

12:00 - Ok, now I'm starting to get hungry. Get my stuff together, pay my ~9 liras for my coffee, and head down the street to...Mahatma Cafe, some of the best vegan food in Istanbul!

Order something like one of the breakfast plates (shown above) or a delicious "tost" (grilled sandwich with vegan cheese and lots of veggies). Chat with the restaurant owner and watch the people walk by. A lovely mural across the street always catches my eye. 

13:00 - Take a stroll through the streets of Kadikoy. It's hard to get lost as long as you know the direction of the water (and keep a sense of adventure and lack of time schedule). Buy some yarn from a local craft shop or browse through a clothing store that looks interesting. 

15:00 - Make my way to the water and jump on a ferry back to Besiktas. The ferry ride is calming and gives one of the best views of Istanbul. I like to sit outside on the deck and let the cool breeze rush past me. By this time in the day, my brain is refreshed and my mind has had some time to be curious and wonder as I've strolled the streets of Kadikoy. My soul is happy because I've had good food, and I'm ready to take on any challenges the next week has to throw me.

Besides my "Mahatma Mu" Saturdays, I enjoyed taking part in the Toastmasters Club in Kadikoy and going to the local hamam (Turkish baths) with my friends in the winter. A section of Kadikoy called Moda is filled with even more coffee shops and good restaurants (like one with delicious lasagna shown below), so the Moda and Rasimpasa areas of Kadikoy are my favorite.

The Starbucks near the ferry port (iskele) is 4 stories high and is also a great place to go, especially if you are short on time and just passing through Kadikoy. This neighborhood has so much to offer and is full of treasures to explore. 

Comment below if you have a personal favorite part of Kadikoy! 

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