May 7. Day 22 nd day of being away. 21st day on the road. .

On this day, the 7 th of May 2015 is the 21st day of my journey. The final leg starts from here........ to Kochi. I rode with my fantastic riding partner Tenzing ( my bullet) through 13 states. Covered 6185km. 
My sincere thanks to all my friends for their great support and care.
Thank you all! 
See you in Kochi.

Raju bhai, the part time guide. Part 1

Friends, 
So finally, I am back after completing my journey that started on April 16th. 
Through 13 states, I traveled a distance of 6264 km. This journey gave me completely varied experiences: both good and bad. You could say that I am no longer the same person that I was when I set out on this journey; because, It is a fact that as i traveled, I had to change some of my perspectives. About our land, our people, life and culture. 
Anyway, I am going to share my travel experiences with you here. This wont be a day to day account, but some fragments from the whole.
(Serious matters and experiences, the purpose of my travel; I mean to write those in a blog. That will take some time. Till then, let us travel through these notes.)

Let me start with this experience I had at Hampi, on my return journey 
It was the 18th day of my travel. I set out from Mehbubnagar in Hyderabad. Traveled a distance of 280 km and a little after 3pm, reached Hampi. I had planned a detailed exploration for the next day.
Still, since I had some time till it turned dark, I wandered around the surrounding areas of Virupaksha temple. A few guides were standing around."sir, do you need a place to stay? The rent will be Rs.500, 750, 1000 for a room." 
That day, I had no plan to stay at a hotel. The rates these guides were quoting were too high. On my way, I could gather that there were no hotels in that area that seemed worthy of these rates.
Some time passed, and a person approached me. He didn't exactly look like a guide. 
"Sir, there are some very nice hotels with rooms nearby."  

"No, I will not need one. I will go back today itself."
Since there was nothing to expect from me, he lost interest and stood a little apart; not paying me any attention. Then, I  asked him, "are you really a guide? Where is your house?"
"I live close by. I am a farmer. In the evening I come here and arrange rooms for anyone who might need it. The hotels will pay me a commission of Rs 100/- or 150/- ." 
He opened up; since he thought I wouldn't be staying there the night! 
"Okay," I said, "can I stay with you at your house?" 

"Oh, sir, my house is very small with only two rooms."

"I do not want to stay at a hotel. All I need is a place to sleep and home cooked food," I said.
"Who all are there at home?"

"Me, my wife, and our son who has completed plus two. One minute sir."

He moved a little away and talked to someone over the phone. Maybe, his wife. Then came back to me.
"All right sir. Let us go. I live close by!"
I had him sit behind me on Tenzing. We went along a little distance through an alley next to the temple, to reach a small house in the middle of a banana plantation.

"This is it sir. We have two rooms. One is the kitchen. Other, the bedroom." 
I liked the place and the setup. Nice village. In the middle of a green filled courtyard, a small house.
'Good, superb', I told myself. 'This was what I was searching for, and I had found it.' 
The two room house had a palm leaf covered area in the front, as was the norm in those parts. Placed Tenzing there to rest. The remaining space held a coir cot. 
He pointed to it and said, "Sir, you can lie here in comfort. Rent, 300 Rs!!" 
What! 300 Rs, to stay in this courtyard? I looked at the man closely.  A canny character?
"What is your name?"
"Raju, sir. Why sir?"
"You know my name. Shouldn't I know who I am staying with?" said I.

"This is my wife, Mangalamma," Raju bhai said. pointing to a manly looking woman who was standing there. "Then, we have a son. Chiranjeevi." Chiranjeevi, was not in scene right then. And was supposed to be a plus two student.

So, that was how it was!
Naturally, my eyes turned to the second room, the other one, apart from the kitchen.
"Can I have this room?"
I had my reasons. I had to charge the Gopro, DSLR, mobile phone etc. Also, I needed a place to keep my things safe. 
Raju bhai was in complete agreement.
"Can I see the room?"
"Yes, why not?" said Raju bhai.
The room was okay. It held a cot  TV, etc. It also had a heavy shabby smell.

"The rent will be 600 Rs, sir. Will have a fresh sheet on the bed," he added. As if he was doing a favor.
Wasn't it too much for the tiny room? I was getting angry. The chap was a cutthroat. 
He thought a bit and said, "Okay sir, 400 Rs. 200 more for food. How long will you be staying here?"    

 "For about two days." 

"As you like sir. Check out time will be at 10 am!!"
Since I started on this journey, for the first time, I was stunned!
(How many more such 'stunning' moments were awaiting me! But, I didn't know it then)

While these 'business discussions' were going on, Mangalamma had swept the room clean.
She gathered up some of their belongings and placed them in the kitchen. And I took charge of the room. I unpacked my things.
Now, what I needed most urgently, was a bath. 
Raju had earlier confirmed that the place had a toilet. A very necessary aspect, while on a travel.
Pointing to a screened area, he said that I could have my bath there. 
(A necessary aspect for anyone and everyone. :) 
But a traveler is at the mercy of circumstances, and what is available) 
'Sir, you will be given three showers. For us, it is two. One extra as special for you.'
As I stood there wide eyed, in astonishment, Raju came with a water filled pot in each hand. That was the 'shower'.
When I came out after a bath in three 'showers', Mangalamma had prepared a glass of fine tea for me. Good. Blessed hands..

While I was having tea, Raju came with a tattered piece of paper. Looked like it was torn off a first standard book of Chiranjeevi's.
"Sar, please write down you address and phone number."
I gave  him one of my visiting cards, and said that it had everything in it.
He turned that around in his hands, put it in his pocket, and stood there hesitantly.
"What is it?"
"Sir, I want 50 Rs more. "

??
Commission!

 'Your house, your room, for that, you  want commission!' 
What the heck!!!??
That sir, Isn't this business. I want commission!"
Including rent for two days, and food, I gave him 1000 Rs, and an extra 50 Rs as commission.
He shouldn't get away with this, I told myself.

"Where is the key to this room? Bring it," I told him.
He brought one key.
"Isn't there one more?"
"Yes sir."

"Bring that too. Am I not staying here for rent? Then, I want the key." I said.

I took the keys from him and shut the room. 

To be continued..... 
 The rest, later. (After knowing your opinion, let me decide if I should continue 'entertaining' you so wink emoticon )










Back at Kochi. The distance covered.. 6264 km. 

Raju bhai, at Hampi. Second and last part.

contd... 

I took the key from him, went in and closed the door.
Sat on the cot and took my diary in hand.

Knock! knock!
That was Raju bhai at the door.

"Sir, what do you want to eat?" Hearing him, one would expect him to magically whisk out a menu.

"Whatever you are having, I will eat that. Like I told you, I am staying with you at your house, so that I can  enjoy life in a village. You should give me only what you eat yourself."

"For us, it will be 'fry rice' tonight."

"You are having fried rice?"

"Yes."

I felt a little disappointed. Is there no escape from Chinese food for the people here too?
"Okay, I too will have that."

"All right sir, how was the tea?"

"Good!", I said truthfully.

For the next half hour, no one came to disturb me. 
The house TV,  covered in a sari, was fast asleep in the room given to me.. I had fitted my different chargers to its plug point and other such available points around the place.

And then, it was time for the fried rice. I was very hungry.
Mangalamma, the lady of the house had served the fried rice on a freshly cut banana leaf spread on a plate.
Sona masoori rice stir fried in turmeric and chillie. Here and there, slices of carrot pieces and french beans, rested decoratively. I ate the whole thing.
I thanked Mangalamma; who stood there, obviously missing her tv serials, and went to sleep. 
'Good night!'
Out side, the sounds of  night life in a village.  Listening to the silence, an occasional cow mooing, night birds singing... I don't know when.  I slept.
When I woke up in the morning, I stepped outside. Nice and clear atmosphere. Fresh air.

There was no sign of the inhabitants of the house. Where had everyone gone? 
Heard some noise from the plantation. And when when I went there, found a young man stacking bunches of mature and ready  bananas on to a tempo.

"I am Devaraj," the young man introduced himself.

"Where is everyone?"

"They have gone to the restaurant. It has to be opened early." 

"Aaha, that is good. Do they have a hotel?"

"Sir, don't you want breakfast? I will go there and get it." Saying that, he disappeared.

I had a bath in two and a half  'showers', dressed and soon got ready.
'After breakfast, I will go to Hampi in the morning itself,' I told myself.
I got the cameras ready. Hampi was near. So I would go on foot.

Devaraj came hurrying. In his had, a five inch black plastic cover. (The type made of recycled plastic that has been prohibited in our state)
Inside that, two iddlies rested on a piece of newspaper that read, 'Kannadamma Daily'. over the iddlies, a little coconut chutney. That wasn't all.  There was some tea tied up in an other plastic cover; this time, a white one; and along with it, a paper cup.

I swallowed the searing words  that came to mind in my mother tongue.
"Mr. Devaraj, Is this how you behave towards a guest? At the very least, if  you had served the food on a plate, I would have eaten it. Have you all no manners! It is a pity!
You take this, and do what ever you want with it. I will eat from outside." I dropped the cover on the porch. 
I poured the tea into a glass and drank it.
"Sorry sir, it happened unwittingly.  It will never happen again." Devaraj continued in that vein...

Ignoring him, I stepped outside and started walking towards Hampi.
"Sir, sorry.. our restaurant is nearby. You can eat there."
Devaraj is not about to leave me alone.
I gave in a bit. Ok, let us see.
On the main road we reached a culvert (a small over bridge)  A place with two or three small stalls or shops. (what we call 'pettikada' back home).

"Here it is sir, the restaurant."

"Where!?'

"Here, this is it." Devaraj pointed out enthusiastically.   

A small desk, two stools. With Mangalamma sitting behind it. If front of her, on a black plate rested some iddlies. A small aluminium plate held some coconut chutney. .
"Come, come," she signaled to me with her hands.
I walked away fast; as if I had not heard her.
Devaraj came running after me. 
"I will come home to have lunch at noon. Now, I don't want anything to eat." I told him.

On the way to Hampi, I came upon a boy with a pushcart, selling delicious poori, and potato curry. Feasted on that:  and went on to  feast on the sights Hampi had to offer.

Hampi gave me many good pictures. saw everything in detail. When hunger really got gnawing at me, it was nearing 1.30 pm, said my watch.
Enough for now. It was time to return. Raju bhai and Mangalamma would have got lunch ready and would be waiting for me.
Trying to keep to the shade, I hurried along the way that would take me to their home.
Leaning on a bamboo pole, chin in hand Mangalamma was sitting outside, chewing on betel leaves thoughtfully. 
There was no sign of either Devaraj or Raju bhai. Had everyone left after having food?
"Sir, did you eat anything?"  Mangalamma asked affectionately.
"How could I? Before I went, didn't I tell you that I will be coming home for lunch?
Haven't you prepared anything? Don't you all take lunch?"  I asked.
The answer came towards me in the shape of a question.
"Sir, what will you have for lunch? I will get it ready now. Curd rice?"
Mangalamma got up from there. tucked her sari, and prepared to enter the kitchen.

I realized with dismay, that she was a lazy person. Okay,  if it was to be curd rice, so be it. 
Anyway, it was something I liked.. I thought, trying to console myself. 
Expecting curd rice, I sat inside my room. Hunger burning my insides.. I waited. 
My head was beginning to ache too. It was past 2PM.  Finally at the tether end of my patience, I went outside. 
"Will soon serve you sir," Mangalamma stood there immovable as a rock.
And then, like a locust, a young boy jumped forward. That was Chiranjeevi!
As soon as he appeared, Mangalamma gave him the cash she held curled up in her hand. "Go and get some curd!" she told him.
By then, I had helplessly realized, that the main ingredient for the curd rice I was waiting for was still waiting at some shop! Time dragged on. 2.30, 2.45...... 
Al last, on a fresh banana leaf end spread on a plate, the delicious curd rice arrived!! The lady was an amazing cook.. But she hadn't provided a side dish, or anything else to go along with it, 
And then  I remembered. The superb tender mango pickle that I had packed in 17 days back.   With that, I had a feast of the curd rice. 
Now it was time for a short rest.

A short slumber. After that, copied all the photographs taken onto the hard disk. Kept all batteries for charging. It was past 4 PM. I went outside and walked towards the riverside. Thungabhadra was flowing peacefully. Children frolicking in the water. People bathing, washing clothes. Maybe they were exaggeratedly exchanging village gossip too. 
I found a less crowded spot and went in. Bathed in the river till my body cooled down. Haaa that felt great. After the cooling dip in the river, I again wandered around country paths. Had a glass of tea.. and by the time I got back, it was 7'O clock.
I had to start early the next day. I had to pack my bags, get Tenzing ready. Tomorrow I have decided to go to Kasaragod, 485 km away from here.

Raju bhai had come to enquire about dinner. "sir, what will you have for dinner?"

"Whatever you eat, I'll have that. To make it a bit more clear, you need not cook anything for me. Just give me a share of what you are having yourselves." I said calmly.

"All right sir."

By 8.30 PM, dinner arrived.
Hot rice served on a leaf covered plate. On the side, there was 'rasam' in a cup.
Another cup held scrambled eggs. (red chillie was used in it) a few pieces of onion.
I was very hungry. I ate it with relish. Superb rasam.  After I finished, I got one more cup of rasam and drank it.  ( extra... !)

"Did you like the 'thali' meal?" enquired Raju.

'Oh! So was this a thali!? I thought to myself.
" I liked it very much," I said.

"Sir had extra rasam too... "

"Yes... !"

"Sir, you will be leaving early tomorrow. so, including the thali' you had just now, it will be 260/- Rs for  food......  " he explained further..  200 Rs for the 'thali', 40 Rs for the rice, 20 Rs for the black tea you had yesterday." 

20 Rs! I sat there open mouthed. I was flabbergasted.
"Yes sir, that was special black tea. Then, the breakfast provided was complimentary. That was what you threw away!!!"

Should I laugh? Or cry?

"Here is 300 Rs! Keep the remaining amount as tip,"

I got back inside. Closed the room. Set the alarm and lay down to sleep.

Early morning at 4AM, As I was about to leave, Raju bhai came with a small glass that held about an ounce of  black tea.
"How much is this ?" I asked.

"Oh no sir, You shouldn't say that. Sir, you are our guest, and you are leaving now., that is why.. "

I nodded my head, "mm, me your guest... is this how you behave towards your guest? The tea I had just  now, adjust that with the tip I gave last night."

I started the bike.

"Sorry sir, sorry. You are our guide.  I have decided to start this as a business. You should come again sir !!"

Hearing this, I was left covered in goosebumps!!!
I patted Tenzing and we started from there.

My next destination, 485 kms away... to my  land, Kerala :)