Top 13 things to do in Coimbra

In this post, I am going to give you advice on the place to visit and experiences to try in Coimbra, which you mustn't pass up if you really want to know this city. Below you will find 13 things to do that I loved doing and that I will miss greatly when I leave!

1. Manuel Braga Gardens

Along the Rio Mondego, not far from the Santa Clara Bridge is the Manuel Braga City Park, a beautiful garden attached to the Parco Verde do Mondego ("Green Park of Mondego"). The garden is quite small, but it is truly beautiful; it enjoys a privileged position by the river in front of the water fountain and is one of the most precious and well-looked after green spaces in the city. I often used to walk along the tree-lined walkways in the late afternoon, admiring the river at sunset.

Along the river bank there is a path lined with trees and old walls, decorated with Azulejos; the traditional floral-patterned tiles.

I would often go to one of the numerous craft markets, especially common in the summer and making the park a popular destination.

From the park you will soon arrive at the Parco Verde - 'Green Park'. The wide open spaces encourage jogging or riding a bike. I could often be found at sunset walking along to the Pedro e Inês Bridge, one of the main attractions. The foot bridge has railings set with coloured glass - red, green, blue and yellow - and from here you have a glorious view of the city.

The Parco Verde continues on the other side of the bridge, including an area of sheds where you can rent a kayak - if you are visiting in the summer this is is something I highly recommend! Nearby there is a small area which is often used for picnics organised by the Erasmus Association. I often took part in these events, which are open to everyone, even if not part of the association.

2. Joanina Library

You can't miss the chance to pay a visit to the University of Coimbra. Hundreds of tourists visit the most important university town in Portugal every year, which is also a UNESCO heritage site.

In my opinion the highlight is the library. For students, entrance costs €10, including the university, the attached church and of course the library. Unfortunately I don't have photos of the library as it is forbidden to take photos inside.

The following photo is a painted representation of the library's interior, itself found in an elegant sardine shop called Comur in the city centre:

The library visit lasts only 10 minutes, but even so you will understand why this is considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Given that you don't have long to look around, I suggest you read the information leaflet immediately on entering - it is very interesting especially as it includes a number of anecdotes and facts, such as that the library is inhabited by a colony of bats.

As a treat for the Disney fans amongst you, the library was meticulously reproduced for the latest Beauty and the Beast film. In addition, you will also see numerous students wearing the traditional black traje - the typical university uniform. I had a strong sensation of having been transported directly to Harry Potter's Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry because of the students coming and going between lessons with their black cloaks and books clutched in their arms.

J. K. Rowling has in fact openly admitted to have drawn inspiration from the Portuguese academic world.

3. Ascend the Clock Tower

Attached to the university is the famous Almedina Tower, by now the emblem of Coimbra. The entrance fee is €2 for students. 34 metres high, you have to climb a narrow, spiral staircase (around 180 steps if my memory serves me correctly) to reach the large terrace on the top floor. I recommend you visit in the afternoon for a 360 degree view of the city at sunset. I must have stood on the terrace for at least half an hour; it was still April and a cold and cloudy day. As there were hardly any tourists, the member of staff allowed me to stay for longer, but be aware that if you are visiting in high season you won't be allowed to stay more than ten minutes.

4. Santa Clara-a-Nova Monastery

The Santa Clara-a-Nova Monastery is absolutely enchanting, a place where peace and tranquillity reign. The only way to get there is on foot, coaxing you through the steep, narrow streets of old Coimbra. Situated on the opposite riverbank to the city centre in the Guarda Inglesa neighbourhood, you will gain a lovely view of the city.

This is the outer courtyard with the statue of the saint facing Coimbra...

.. while this is the breathtaking view from the entrance courtyard:

The entrance ticket also includes access to the church which houses the remains of the St Elizabeth of Portugal (known as Reinha Santa Isabel in Portugal), the museum with its antique paintings of the Saint and the gardens. You can breathe in the peace and quiet in the internal garden and admire the fascinating architecture of the inner courtyard.

5. Quinta das Lagrimas gardens

One of the most romantic places in Coimbra has to be the Quinta das Lagrimas garden where the love between Prince Pedro and the young Inês de Castro is celebrated. Here you will find the Fountain of Tears and the Canal of Love which, according to legend was used to pass secret love letters between Pedro and Inês. When I took this photo the water was so clear that it mirrored its surroundings perfectly, creating a surreal and magic atmosphere.

The main attraction is obviously the Fonte das Lágrimas (Fountain of Tears), where the poor young lady cried before being assassinated. Her blood is said to still mark the rock surrounding the fountain. The reality is a rather different, but I don't want to ruin the mysterious image which I hope you will by now have of this magical place. You will find information panels around which will explain the background to you.

Before arriving, rather than following the signs taking you directly to the fountain, I recommend you take a stroll around the park. You will explore winding paths completely hidden amongst the greenery and you will feel a million miles from the city.

Before arriving at the Fountain of Tears, you will find a romantic garden with ruins in the neo-gothic style.

Opposite is a bamboo grove where you can engrave the names of you and your sweetheart.

The entrance fee is €2. The garden is surrounded by a golf course and a 5* hotel and when I visited a wedding was being held in the garden. I therefore advise you to try and visit on weekdays, hopefully avoiding any unexpected surprises that could keep you from enjoying the garden to its fullest.

6. Botanical gardens

The university's botanical gardens is a popular destination for tourists. My advice is to visit in spring/summer, when you can appreciate best the flowers in bloom. I went in April when it was still cool and the days were grey and tiresome; the old gates and structures worn by time, combined with the grey day, gave the gardens a particularly broody atmosphere, which was at the same time fascinating.

Still, when I returned in high summer, I was astounded by the quantity and colours of flowers. You will have the opportunity to take a long walk through the astonishing variety of plant and tree species which hail from all over the world. Entrance to the gardens is completely free. There are different parts to visit, such as the forest, the bamboo grove or the Sierra Grande with tropical plants. By the entrance to the greenhouse is an enormous, centuries-old fig tree.

An area with tables and benches has been set up near the entrance and here it is possible to have a picnic.

7. The historic centre

Walking around the old town of Coimbra was for me very evocative. The historic centre dates from the medieval era and breathing in the atmosphere you can almost transport yourself back centuries to that time.

Standing in front of those ancient churches, such as the Santa Cruz or the Old Cathedral, I truly felt like I had gone back in time. You will almost certainly come across groups of university students engaged in some sorts of celebrations of typical students' rites. Some advice: if you do see one of these groups, avoid taking photos. Often these are ancient traditions and you may be called back and asked to delete your photos. It happened to me and I have to say it was quite an uncomfortable experience to be called back. They are very strict on these matters. Still, these traditions are now a large part of the city's traditions and feature in many of the main folklore events. There are also many fabulous bars, traditional restaurants and bistros in the centre, where I have tasted some of the most delicious typical Portuguese sweets and dishes.

I loved the Rua Ferreira Borges, a street full of souvenir shops which leads directly to the Largo da Portagem, the square near the river.

8. Miradouro do Vale do Inferno

This viewpoint is a bit further from the city centre. You can get there by taking bus number 6F and then it is about a 10 minute walk; otherwise you can go by car or take a taxi. I often used to go with friends, especially in the evenings when many young people get together for a couple of beers.

Located on the western side of the river, it is also a popular place for couples, especially at sunset when the view makes for a romantic atmosphere.

9. Eat bacalhau

Bacalhau - salt cod (also known as baccalá) - is a Portuguese speciality and comes cooked in a number of ways. During your visit to Coimbra, I particularly recommend the Solar do Bacalhau restaurant in Baixa where they specialise in salt cod. It is fairly expensive but the portions are generous and absolutely delicious. You can also try bacalhau baked, fried, roasted or in soups or stews with the side dishes of your choice. I had the opportunity to try grilled bacalhau with potatoes, onions and zucchini. If you are ceoliac like me you can rest assured that this restaurant is very careful with cross-contamination, so you can eat here without worrying.

10. Fado concerts

You cannot visit Portugal without hearing Fado at least once. The traditional Portuguese music is some of the most moving music I have ever heard. In summer the town council organises free concerts, including popular music and Fado in front of the Santa Cruz church, with the help of volunteers. Feel free to sign up!

If instead you are visiting over winter or spring, I suggest you head to Rua de Quebra Costas in the city centre, near the famous steps. There you will find a small theatre where the Fado ao Centro organise Fado concerts. The best musicians of the city, dressed in the traditional, black, academic traje and draped in their elegant cloaks, make for a truly exciting experience. They will explain the history of Fado and the music they are about to play. The theatre is very small and inside you can find many photographs of the most famous Portuguese musicians and singers.

Outside the theatre will be a lady selling tickets. Tickets cost €10 and include the concert itself and a small refreshment for the interval, when you can even chat with the young musicians.

The show is interactive, requiring audience participation - it will be delivered first in Portuguese and then in English.

11. Coimbra Forum

The best thing to do at the Coimbra Forum is to sit on the terrace and admire the city. It is possible to eat and drink on the terrace and it is a great place to relax, affording a great viewpoint of the city and river. It was one of my favourite things to do at the weekend and I would take a coffee or sandwich and sit admiring the view.

12. Praça da República

The Praça da República square is a favourite haunt of students, and I could often be found there with a group of my friends with a coffee or beer. The square is surrounded by nightclubs, bars and pubs so it is particularly busy at night and is a popular meeting point, especially in summer. During the month of September, you can see new first years students engaging in the initiation rites of the Praxis. I recommend you go and see these celebrations; it is very entertaining to watch, even if it doesn't make a lot of sense to the onlooker.

One of my favourite pasttimes was to sit on one of the nearby terraces, taking photos and people-watching.

13. Mandarim

For those who, like me, love to dance, the Mandarim is for you. This famous nightclub is in the Praça da República and is different to the others in the centre because it is mainly frequented by Portuguese people and plays mainly Portuguese music. The best time to go is after 1am - the Portuguese usually meet earlier at someone's house to eat and drink before going out. Once they have reached their "optimal" level of drunkenness (according to their personal standards) they will head out to dance.

You can let loose in any of these clubs until 6am. Entrance is completely free and the price of drinks is acceptable and normal. I would often go with my Portuguese friends. The Portuguese are very sentimental and when the DJ puts on Fado at the end of the evening it seems to remind everyone of times gone by; memories from university, of friendships and past relationships. Everyone begins to cry and hug each other; you might feel like you are trapped with a bunch of crazies, but really they are just remembering that they are all united with one another.

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