Student life in Clermont-Ferrand

I arrived in Clermont-Ferrand in September 2015 for the first year of my communications degree at the University of Blaise Pascal. I lived in the city for two and a half years and I spent my final semester studying abroad. But two years is enough to experience everything, and it is difficult to express in words the energy and the beauty of this town. To make it easier, I will follow the categories laid out. I will then add my own personal opinions.

Architecture and landscape

To situate Clermont-Ferrand, it is in the Pay-de-Dôme department in central France, in a natural valley at the foot of the volcano which gives its name to the department. It is a medium-sized town surrounded by countryside, so you don't have to go far to experience nature! The most notable and beloved site is of course the volcano. It is visible from almost everywhere in the city notably from the steps of the cathedral, and its familiar antenna sparks joy. All around the city the streets disappear into the forest on the slops of the surrounding Puys (volcanic hills). It is truly a rolling landscape.

Regarding the architecture, we must focus on the aforementioned cathedral. It is one of a kind as it was built from volcanic rock and therefore it is black. Its two tours tower above the rue des Gras, next to Place de la Victoire, two of the old town's important landmarks. In the city centre you can find many other Gothic buildings which give this city such a unique and authentic look, for example the town hall. Within easy reach of the city centre are the Jaude 1 and 2 centres and the place de Jaude. Throughout the town you will see fountains, the one at the Place de la Victoire, shadowed by a statue of Blaise Pascal, is the most impressive.

Culture and tradition

Regarding this topic, my explanations will be rather lacking. Coming from a rural French background I didn't pay much attention to the custom and tradition of Clermont. However, I think it is easy to realise the extreme importance of the ASM matches! The town's rugby club play in the Top 14 (which means that they are one of the 14 best clubs in France) and they often play international matches. For the regular home games, the crowds fill the stadium and the town is painted in yellow and blue (the club colours). Following a win there are parties in the streets! Better still, when the club plays in a final, the stadium is full to the brim so they install a giant screen to stream the match in on the Place de Jaude which is teaming with fans. The atmosphere in the square is amazing, it is truly an unmissable event! It is said that when all the fans stomp their feet during finals, little tremors are detected in the neighbouring volcanoes! They might end up reawakening them...

Besides that, it is important to underline that the Auvergnats and therefore the Clermontois have a strong culinary culture and a great love for food, which we will now move on to.

Gastronomy

If you love charcuterie and cheese then you will love the cuisine from the Clermont region. For vegetarians like me, it is more complicated to try their traditional dishes. But you can always eat well as Auvergnats love big meals made from as many local products as possible.

Fondue, raclette, tartiflette : all these dishes are made from a lot of cheese from the Auvergnat region. They have their own famous dish, aligot : mashed potato mixed with creme fraiche and cheese! You can try some in all the great local restaurants and at Christmas Markets. Other typical dishes are made from cheese, vegetables and potatoes... The Clermontois also have a taste for great wine and beer to go alongside their meals, don't hesitate to ask for recommendations!

My personal recommendations

• For a galette or a filled crepe : le 1513. This hidden restaurant is on a small street near the Place de la Victoire, it offers a large and varied menu. The atmosphere is nice and the staff are very kind.
• For a good beer : there are many bars on the Victoire, the Place de Jaude or the surrounding areas but one of the best bars is Delirium. It has a wide range of beers for affordable prices.
• For a snack with friends after class : the Carnot. Located just next to the languages and communications building and the humanities building, this cafe is a great meeting spot for students and sometimes even the teachers. There is a friendly atmosphere and there are always people about, the crepes and hot chocolates are good and the owners are very friendly.

Nightlife

Since I began my studies in Clermont-Ferrand, it was my first experience of student nights. And I must say, despite its reputation, Clermont is a lively student town.

Most people start their nights in either their flats or the bars of which there is a large choice. I've produced a list of the best ones. These are bars that often host student nights, but they are affordable and the events are always fun.

• The Verlaine: located behind the Centre Jaude 1, the Verlaine offers a wide range of beers, spirits and shooters. They also have happy hour with lower prices. Inside can quickly become jam-packed on busy nights but outside is nice because it is not right next to the road.
• L'Appart : if you like bars or nightclubs that have a cosy and chic atmosphere you will enjoy l'Appart. It is a bit dark but the lighting creates a nice atmosphere for the evening. The music tends to be a mix between bar and nightclub music. The place is also split into different sections : bedroom, bathroom, living room... which gives this place a unique look. Attention : you must be over 18 to enter and they will ask for ID.
• The Pascal : this spot is on the Place de la Victoire. Here there is a wide choice of bars and vibes. On Thursday nights (student night) the Place de la Victoire is full of drunk people. I would often head to the Pascal for great cocktails.
• Delirium as mentioned earlier, this bar is located next to the Centre Jaude 1 is the place to go if you like beer. However, do be warned the inside gets very full and the outside area is narrow and uncomfortable.
• The 3 monkeys : located near the languages buildings, the 3 monkeys offers a very affordable happy hour and often host the Students Union on Thursday evenings. It is a cosy place and they make great raspberry mojitos (I am very picky).

Having mentioned the BDE, I will explain a bit more in detail. The BDE or Bureau des Etudiants (Student Union) exists for all the degree and masters students and it encourages student clubs aimed at helping their members, to respond to their demands, to organise bonding weekends, trips, but mainly parties. So if you are new to the university look for the BDE for your subject, follow their Facebook page and go to their events, it is a great way to make friends!

• Side note for the Erasmus students : follow the Facebook page WorldTop ESN, it is an organisation dedicated to international students at Clermont-Ferrand, you will find plenty of information on organised events and the adress of a bar on the Place de la Victoire which organises nights for Erasmus students.

To carry on the night, you will find some nightclubs in the town centre. The 2 most popular ones are Them's and The Middle. The former is located near to the Gaillard tram station and the latter is behind the Jaude. The Middle is smaller than Them's but both have similar atmospheres, mainly the most recent pop music. You will hear people mention Springbreak or 101 but not having been there I can't say anything about them.

• For LGBT+ students, there is Otherside, close to the Gaillard station.
• Warning : to get into all of these clubs you must show ID, don't be too drunk in the queue and go in small groups.

Leisure and free-time

There are always new things to do in Clermont-Ferrand and in the nearby area! It all depends on what you prefer.

If you prefer cultural activites :

• Museums : the town has plenty of museums. In the town centre, you can find the Lecoq and Bargoin museums which house various exhibitions depending on when you go, the FRAC Auvergne for fans of contemporary art or even the Hotel Fontfreyde on the Rue de Gras for lovers of photography. Little further out of town you will find the Roger Quilliot museum with its classical collections. For something a little less classic you could also visit the Michelin museum of the famous industrial group that originated in this town. Lastly, there is the ASM Experience for rugby fans or those who wish to know more about the local club.
• The heritage : firstly, I recommend that you carefully check the date of heritage days which allow you free access to 100s of gorgeous buildings all over France. In Clermont-Ferrand for example, it is possible to go to the Opera or even the town hall. During the rest of the year, don't forget to visit the cathedral and go on its roof.
• Music : near to Clermont-Ferand there is the Zenith d'Auvergne, where world famous artists come every year. Closer to the town, next to the stadium, is the Cooperative de Mai. Many French and international artists come to perform at this arena but it is also good for parties and drinks after work. It is a truly unique place and the prices are usually affordable for students.
• The Geek Conventio : every March/April this convention happens just next to the Cooperative de Mai. It is a chance to go out in cosplay, to meet youtubers and to see impressive costumes,
• Comedy if you like theatre, or the arts in general, the town has a great national stage where you can see classic and modern plays all year round. If you are interested, get the programme and a student ticket in order to not miss out. Another important thing to note is that in February la Comedie becomes the main area for the international short-film festival which comes to Clermont every year. It is an unmissable event and you can discover some masterpieces.

If you prefer sports :

• Games/Matches : in reality you aren't doing anything when you go to see an ASM match, but it is a must for sports fans.
• The ice rink located at Aubiere, the town's ice rink offers student discounts. It is a chance to do something unusual.
• Bowling/Lasertag : as for the ice rink, you have to leave the town to go here. Look out for nights organised by students societies.
• Trampoline Park : there are several of these around Clermont but I have only been to the Gravity Fly Factory. It is a huge space with trampolines, acrobatic circuits and jump zones. Don't forget to book, especially on weekends! You have to pay for non-slip shows on top of entry fee.
• Swimming Pool thw town has several swimming pools but I only know of the Pierre de Coubertin, located near La Comedie. This pool has a depth of 50m which is split in two, a play pool and also a slide and a diving pool. Student entry is only 2 euro.

Finally, if you are more into nature :

• Most importantly, you can (and you should) climb the Puy-de-Dome. The climb takes a little while but it is accessible to everyone. If you really don't feel like walking you can take the train. If the volcano looks amazing from the ground, just wait until you reach the top! Advice : wait for nice weather, take good shoes, descend via the tracks, take a bottle of water and something to eat at the top (the restaurant at the top is very expensive)
• Around the town there are many other possible walks. Go to the tourist office (at Place de la Victoire) or ask a local friend who is your safest source.
• It isn't very natural but if you are happy to travel, spend a day at Vulcaine, the region's theme park. There aren't many big rides but it is good to know.
• Finally, if you are looking for nature in the city centre, it is possible. Firstly, near the university buildings there is the Lecoq Garden, an ideal lunch spot, for a break after exams or for jogging (even if it is over quickly). When the sun is out you could easily get lost in the mass of students lounging on the grass. Finally, you can move on to the Montjuzet park. Located in the highest point of the city, it offers stunning views. It is a big, beautiful park.

There are plenty of ideas to keep yourself occupied. If not, you can always go shopping at Jaude or go to one of the many cinemas in the town. Le Paris and Jaude 1 screen the big productions, 3D films, and costs a bit more. Le Captiol screens lesser known films and has smaller theatres. Lastly, les Ambiances shows more independent films, usually in the original language but has less comfortable theatres.

Transport

The town's transport network is ran by the T2C. The A line is the town's tram line, it goes past the stadium, the Jaude centre and the Cézeaux campus (sciences and sport). All other routes are ran by the buses and the network covers almost all of the town and its outskirts. The city is often criticised for not having a tram stop near the train station but a lot of the buses stop in front of the station and they will take you to the tram stop.

You will soon realise that Clermont is a human sized town, it is nice and easy to walk around. Around the city centre, between the place de Jaude, Victoire and the university campus you wont need to use public transport.

If you live further out of town, I recommend getting a monthly or annual pass depending on the length of your stay. Student prices are quite high but not too bad. The trams and buses are regularly patrolled.

Living costs

The cost of living in Clermont is fairly close to the French national average. Rent in the town centre is reasonable for a decent apartment and daily living costs aren't overwhelming for a student budget. In the town centre there are supermarkets and convenience stores (Carrefour City, Lidl... ) where you can do your shopping on a low budget. Bear in mind that having a drink near the Place de la Victoire will cost quite a bit but everywhere else is affordable.

To give you an idea, here is a list of my monthly living costs :

• rent for a 19m² apartment was 415 euros, bills included
• 100 euros for a food shop, mainly bio products from Naturalia (bear in mind that I am a vegetarian so I don't know the cost of meat or fish)
• 60 euros on coffee/beers and trips out (mainly the cinema)
• 40 euro for miscellaneous spending (shopping, gifts, unnecessary treats)
• So, around 615 euros to live well
• Some restaurants cost between 18 and 35 euros (per person for an evening meal)

Weather

As I explained at the start, Clermont-Ferrand is located in a natural valley which means that summer days can be hot and stuffy and winter is blisteringly cold. Snow comes quickly and covers the surrounding hilltops and sometimes falls in the city streets. I strongly recommend getting yourself a good coat, a hat, warm shoes and a pair of gloves if you are planning to stay through the winter. There's no use for an umbrella since whenever it rains, the wind comes too. I broke two umbrellas before giving up.

I've come to the end of my list and I think I've said everything there is to say about my time in Clermont.

During my two years there I became greatly attached to this city, to its character, its streets, and its cultural wealth. I don't think I will have the chance to live there one day but I hope that you love it as much as I did! Don't hesitate to share your own experiences with me or to ask me for any advice.

Below, I have attached a 'scrapbook' of some photos from my life in Clermont-Ferrand.

Photo gallery