A trip to Bulgaria!

Since September I have been leaving in Spain, to do an year Internship in Erasmusu. During this year I decided to write some goals, you know like new years wishes...and one of it was going to a new country.

One day I was skyping with my friend, that she is half Bulgarian half Portuguese, and we were talking about her trip to Bulgaria, and we said it would be funny if I could join her. Not taking that to seriously, because I’m used to really expensive flights (the downside of living in the easter point of Europe), but I searched the flights were incredibly cheap, less than half of the price that would be if I would booked from Portugal - Bulgaria.

So I booked the flights to may, on the last weekend of the month.

After some months the day finally arrived, and I still couldn’t believe that I was going to see one of the most important persons for me, in her own country. It’s something really important to me, because after 4 years of friendship I finally would have the chance to know her roots.

So the trip it was going to be from Friday until Monday, arriving in Sofia at late Friday, and Monday having the flight in the middle of the afternoon.

But of course I could never to a smooth travel, and not have a story to tell. On Friday, when I arrived to Valencia’s airport, I went to the security queue, and after scanning my flight ticket, the machine rejected it. The security man looked at me and told me: “-I’m sorry lady, but you’re in the wrong airport.” I know I will never have a normal and tranquil life. I was completely incredulous and petrified - asking to the security man: “So what can I do?” He told to go to the information flight office, but in there the woman told me that in two hours I could never arrive to the other airport, because the fastest way is by car, and the other airport is located in Castellón, an hour and half travel. After this you can not imagine how I was, it’s better not even to write about it, because I don’t want you to think that I’m rude, I can just say that I was walking from one side to the other, speaking and screaming alone. (I know completely crazy) So I went outside, and I start to ask to the taxis what was the lowest price that they could do to me, from Valencia airport until Castellón airport. Once again, everyone must had thought that I was completely crazy. But thank God there was this taxi driver, that was incredibly nice and told me that could do a HUGE discount and he could take to for 80 euros (take in consideration that more than 100 kilometers from one airport to the airport). Yes, the true, I must confess, is that I’m so rich, you can’t even imagine. Hell I still don’t know how, but I arrived on time, thanks to the nicest taxi driver ever. When I reached the airport, my thought was: “-Ok, I’m going to lose the flight.”, so I ask everyone, of course in a really polite way, if I could pass in front on the queue. Everyone was so nice, and they let me passed, and when I arrive near to the security woman, she told me: “-Why are you running? Everyone is going to same flight!” Yes, you are allowed to laugh as much as you want, otherwise I wouldn’t have write this in here…

Well but enough of this crazy and super weird histories, what matters is that I arrive to Sofia, around midnight, and in the next  day I was going to see my friend and her mother.

This article is going to be split in three different parts: the first, is to talk about Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital; after I’m going to talk about Rila Monastery; and then Kyustendil, my friend’s city.  After these topics, I’m also going to talk about the population in general and, of course the food.

Sofia:

Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria, and the entire city counts with about 1.7 million of people. It’s a really cheap place and a destine not that common, although, every year is receiving more and more tourists.

Before I came to Sofia, several people told me that it’s not a beautiful nice, but now I can say that I totally disagree, beauty depends of the way you look, and it’s something completely personal. I went without any expectation, and I admit that I just went because of my friend, but in the moment that I started walking through the city I found myself really pleased. It doesn’t look a capital, at all, at least not in the city center, the historical part. The street is full of people but no one is in rush to go somewhere. In my opinion is a peaceful place. One of the things that I loved more was the smell in the streets, because there are a lot of street sailors, selling fruit, vegetables or even flowers, and the smell of it is just something marvelous. One important thing to mention is that in here the products are really fresh, have a high quality and the price is incredibly cheap. It reminds me my childhood, because I used to leave in a village and I remember that the fruit and vegetables used to smell just like that.

Another thing that for most of people can be something negative, is the fact that Sofia is still a bit ruined and you can see destroyed sites. I’m not saying this is a positive, not at all, but I like it because you still can feel the communisme, somehow, and for an historical point is really interesting to see something that is used to exist but you never lived. This is a good place for you to learn more about the history or culture, and at the same it’s easier to imagine what happen, because everything was quite recent.

ACCOMMODATION:

I stayed one night in the “Hostel Mostel” right in city center, and a travel of 20 minutes, by taxi, from Sofia airport - terminal 2. It was really cheap, I payed 9 euros (18 levas), and every was quite good. Of course not the best place of my life, but with a good price-quality. It’s the perfect place for you to stay if you’re a backpacker, if you’re travelling with friends or alone. In here it was hosted people from all over the world, I found people from Colombia, Brasil, Greece, India, Australia, among others. This hostel is availated as one of the best in Sofia, so I really recommend it, besides all the staff was more than super nice.

Now I’m going to nominate the places that I visited, although there are must more to visit, but I only spend less than a day in the city.

MONUMENTS:

*Alexander Nevsky Cathedral-Without a doubt this is the landmark of the city, and is the place that everyone wants to visit, you cannot come to Sofia without seeing it. Take as many pictures has you want, because is a monument that worts to see from every side. Inside it’s tradition for people, and it doesn’t matter if you’re a believer or not, or a ortodoxe or cristian, because everyone is welcome here...you can buy a candle inside and light it up and put it in one of the candelabras. Then ask for a wish! Is something so beautiful and how many times in your life can you say that you did that in an orthodox church?!

*The russian church - I didn’t have the opportunity to get in, but I can guarantee you that worth to see, just because is so different from the typical church architecture of eastern Europe. Besides is a tiny taste of Russia. By the way everything that you see in Bulgaria glowing it means it’s real gold. So yes, the rooftop of the Russian Church is real gold.

*The National Palace Of Culture -  When I went, 26th of May 2018, it was during the period of the six months while all the European ministers were there. Unfortunately I didn’t see any. I didn’t see its inside, but outside has a garden, with a small lake, is a nice place to go for a walk and to refresh a bit during the warmest days.

*Banya Bashi Mosque - This is the only Mosque in Sofia and it has a unique and marvelous beauty. This as the first time that I got into a Mosque, so it was something really special for me, mostly because I have a profound curiosity about their religion. Before you get in, as normal, you have to take off your shoes and the women must cover their head and hair. I was expecting, but inside it’s so beautiful, so colourful and pretty. A must see, without a doubt.

*Narodno Sabranie - National Assembly of the Republic of Bulgaria. This parliament is a truly represent of what Bulgaria was before joining the European Union. In front of the building you can see the statue of Tsar Alexander II, and in the back of the building the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

*Ivan Vazov National Theatre - This Theatre is also located in a Square, and its facade is facing the City Garden. From the beginning of the 20th century, was already rebuilt after the Second World. Nowadays the Theatre is still in function, and host renown performances.

*Its Gardens - Sofia is a really green place, and one of the things that I liked more is that it has a garden in every corn. I’m not going to mention its gardens, because in my opinion you have to discover them for yourself.

*Vitosha Boulevard Sofia - This is the main pedestrian street in Sofia. Is a place full of restaurants, coffee shops with their outside sitting areas, with different souvenirs shops and also (for me what amazed me more) as a background of the street you have the mountain with the same name, Vitosha, and the view is breathtaking.

Sofia still has its subway under construction, so I have no idea about how it works, but I mostly walk to every place.

In total we spend less than a day in Sofia, because around 6 pm. we went to Sofia’s bus station to get the bus to Kyustendil. The travel lasted less than 2 hours and the ticket was (7 levas, that in euro is around €3). It was a really nice day, I enjoyed myself and Sofia is a city that worth to see at least once in your life.

After Sofia we went to Kyustendil, but first I’m going to speak about Rila Monastery, because on that day we didn’t have the chance to visit her city, and in the morning we went straight to the Monastery.

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Rila Monastery:

Before I came, I made some research, and I saw that Rila Monastery is one of the top sites to visit in Bulgaria. But honestly I didn’t see that many pictures, so I went with any expectation about what I was going to see.

We went from Kyustendil by car, I remember that they told me that we went by the highway that leads to Greece, really excited to know that we were so close to this ancient country. The trip it took us, more or less 2 hours, and it was really pleasant to see all the surroundings, a green landscape with a nature that words cannot describe.

The Rila Monastery is located on a mountain, and to go there you can take a bus (there are a lot of organised tours from Sofia), by car (as I did) or you can even walk if you, I really don’t advise because is too exhaustive and too far, but well I saw some people doing it. When you reached the monastery you will see a small parking lot (and if you’re going during the middle of the day is completely full of touristic buses) and some small street shops where you can buy souvenirs.

I must say that from outside it doesn’t look nothing special, but the surroundings are beautiful, because everywhere you look you will see mountains, what I mean is you will see green for miles. The moment we got out of the car we could feel the fresh air, it was a marvelous thing.

When you arrive you will see a small entrance, with some paintings, it looks like an entrance to a small church.

Then you get in and it looks like you just got in to a completely different place. I not going to get into much details, because I think it should be a surprise to you. All I can say is take your time in the place because you can get in to different places, like: the different Museums, in the Main Church, you can climb the different stairs fo the Monastery and have a more wonderful and panoramic view to the entire place, take a look to how the priests are dressed, among so many other things.

One more thing, in here you have to try the Mekitsi (in a stall that there is in front of the back entrance of the Monastery, it’s really easy to see the place because it has a kind of big queue) and also the typical bread that is a receipt from the old mongues.

After the Monastery we came back to the road, and then (still inside the mountain) we stopped in a  restaurant, a really good one. The name of the restaurant is Gorski Kut, and its address is:107 15, 2643 Rilski manastir, Bulgaria. The food in here is AMAZING, everything is so fresh and so tasteful, I order a fish dish with salad, and it was really good. The restaurant is quite big, so you can choose if you prefer to stay outside, inside or even close to the nature.  We decided to stay in the best place, according to my opinion, because it was a wood house, that all you can see is the mountain, its cascades, everything green and even listening the birds and the sounds of the nature. I can say, without a doubt, that this was one of the best lunches that I had. Also, my friend see told me that this is something really common in Bulgaria, having restaurants in the middle of the nature, how amazing is that? By the way we were 5 people having lunch, and the check was around 27 euros, I still can’t believe, we eat so good and so much, in the end with coffee and everything, and just look how cheap it was.

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Kyustendil:

Kyustendil is a city located in the western Bulgaria, less than 2 hours ride from Sofia, 20 minutes from the border with Macedonia and the Serbian one. It has between 40 thousand to 50 thousand inhabitants, so it’s not at all a big city. I would advise you to visit the city because it has some important monuments and you can also see how is a smaller Bulgarian city. Nominating some of the must see places:

*Medieval Church St. George;

*Ahmed Bey Mosque;

*Pirkova Tower;

*Roman Terms;

*Late ancient and Medieval Fortess “Hissarlaka”;

*Dervish bath;

*Vladimir Dimitrov Statue;

*Art Gallery "Vladimir Dimitrov - Maistora";

*Theatre Facade;

*Town Hall;

*Main Square;

*The Big Market;

*Uspenie Bogorodichno (успение богородично кюстендил);

*Hisarlaka Fortress - in the hill of the city.

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Bulgarians, nice people or to eastern?

I must be honest with you, I was expecting the Bulgarians to be cold people, and a bit similar to Hungarians (specially because their are both eastern countries). So it was funny to have the opportunity to get to know so many Bulgarians, and not like a tourist, but like a friend or an acquaintance.

At first they look a bit cold, they give you an handshake and they will never greet you with kisses. But to me, this is completely normal, and to be honest sometimes I miss this greeting way.

However during the days that I spend there so people were really warm, like for example: one they told to one of their friends that I was living in Spain, and the woman looked at me, with such a bit smile and gave a hug, because her sons were also leaving in Spain.

Another important thing to mention is that I was never received so well, by anyone, like the family of my friend. Everyone that is close to her known that I was coming, and they were so nice, I don’t have words to thank them. They received me at their house and they prepared me the best reception with the best food of my life, but that is a topic for the next paragraph.

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Food, without a doubt on my top 3:

I left this section to last because is the harder to explain, or at least to put it by words, because if you try any food you will understand why I’m saying this. This was one of the best foods that I tried in my life, but most of the foods that I tried were prepared by a Bulgarian granny, so maybe it was because of that. Everything is so fresh and the flavours are really intense, nothing like the process/ supermarket food that we are used to. I’m going to mention some of the dishes  that I tried, and if you can try to taste all of them:

*Shopska salad - Usually I’m not a salad’s person, but in Bulgaria what I mostly ate was salads, and they were all so delicious. This salad is the most typical one. I tried it in Sofia, in a chain restaurant called Happy.

*Pitka Bread - It wasn’t my first time trying it, because my friend cooked it before, but this time I think it tasted even better. This is the typical bread and is always made with different formats and designs.

*Bulgarian Delight Rose - Well if you know the “Turkish delights” this is the Bulgarian version. They have other flavours, but this is the most typical, since mostly everything in here is made by roses.

*Banitsa - This is the typical street food, that you can eat as breakfast, in the middle of the afternoon, or if you want why not as a lunch too? Banitsa is sell in every bakery in Bulgaria.

*Lyutenitsa - It’s similar to a jam, so you can add it in everything that you want. This is one of the most typical things you have in there.

*Dragon’s breath: shkembe chorba (шкембе чорба) - This is like a soup, but completely different from the ones that I have seen before. I tried this soup in the restaurant located in Rila Monastery, and at first the taste was really weird and different, but then I liked because is a strong flavour, and you can feel the different spices. This soup also had trips inside it.

*Lukanka - This is made of meat, and is the typical snack, when you want to eat something quick, it’s like a traditional salami.

*Palneni Chushki - This is filled peppers, and they can be stuff with everything. The ones that I tried were filled with rice, eggs and spices, incredibly GOOD. By the way these ones were homemade.

These are some of the recipes that I could remind, if I remind of something else I will add it in here.

I hope you like this article, or at least that open the taste to try Bulgarian food.

Thanks for reading!