Barcelona: The Seaside Area

In my opinion, the only feature missing in Barcelona is a spectacular river flowing through the city. Although, the Mediterranean sea partially makes up for it, enlivening the city with a series of spectacular sights which may be enjoyed either from the Montjuich hill or, most of all, from the port area, where the marine district of La Barceloneta is located. A walk along the sea was still missing among my experiences in Barcelona: therefore, making the most of a partially sunny Saturday of early February, I decided to fill this gap.

I set off for my maritime route from the Mirador de Colon, an imposing monument depicting Cristopher Columbus, located in the middle of a wide roundabout, right at the end of the Rambla. The admiral, which according to some historians might have been from Barcelona (instead of Genoa), is portrayed in the act of pointing towards the sea with his right hand. Welcomed by some unpleasant and unexpected showers of rain, I made my way along the quayside, going past the traditional antiquarian market which takes place every Saturday in front of the Mirador de Colon.

Approaching the spectacular boardwalk called Rambla del Mar, you will catch sight of a thicket of masts and sails sprouting up on your left. It is really advisable to enjoy the stroll along this aerial bridge, as it offers really nice views both on the right side, where it is possible to admire the area of the Mirador, which you have just gone through, and the Montjuich hill at distance, and on the left side, overlooking the area of the old port (Port Vell), with a flock of boats contrasting with the city buildings on the background. At first I was quite disappointed by the absence of the Pailebot de Santa Eulalia, a gracious schooner dating back to 1918, which is normally anchored at Port Vell. To my great surprise, though, I had the chance of catching sight of the schooner sailing back from a short route for the touristic port. Quite an awesome view, which brought me back for a while to my youth readings about pirates and adventures on the sea!

Resuming your walk along the Moll de Espanya, you will have the chance to admire some nice glimpses of the Barceloneta, located on the opposite side of the narrow gulf where the Port Vell is located. Surrounded by flocks of hungry seagulls, you had better cross back to the other side, where through an elevated passage, called Mirador del Port Vell, you will be back to the seaside promenade. After casting a last look to the spectacular multitude of boats placidly anchored at the port, it is worth turning briefly around towards the city, in order to admire the original sculpture called El Cap de Barcelona. Erected by the American pop artist Roy Lichtenstein, it is in deep contrast, due to its lively colours, with the surrounding city buildings.

Finally heading towards the district of Barceloneta, you will be welcomed by the elegant palace called Palau del Mar. Once the headquarters of the trade storehouse, it currently houses the Museu d'Historia de Catalunya. At a cost of 4 euro, you will be offered an interesting reconstruction of the life and customs of the several populations which have characterised the history of the region over the centuries. It is now time to discover the picturesque area of la Barceloneta, a neighbourhood dating back to the XVIII century, originally populated by fishermen. Walking along its narrow and chaotic streets, you will find a series of restaurants, renowned for their fish menu, and a series of tiny tapas bar which are considered among the best in Barcelona. It is also possible to catch sight of a sample of everyday life in the district, with local people crowding in front of the coffee bars or going to the local market for their grocery shop. Dating back to the first half of the XVIII century, the Esglesia de Sant Miquel del Port is the oldest building in La Barceloneta. The facade of the church looks out onto the quiet Plaça de La Barceloneta, while the opposite side overlooks the lively area of the market, curiously called Plaça del poeta Joan Boscàn.

Hopefully restored by a satisfying lunch, you will be able to resume the walk with renewed energy. Back along the wide quay, you will admire more views towards the city, whose characteristic buildings manage to stand out from the skyline: the towers of the Cathedral, Santa Maria del Mar and Santa Maria del Pi are clearly visible, as well as the Tibidabo hill, towering in the background. From this point, it is also possible to set out for a spectacular trip on the aerial cable car which reaches Montjuich, offering a bird's eye view of the city and the port area. However, the experience will not be particularly cheap (10 Euros for a single ticket, 15 Euros for a return one).

You had probably better going on with your quiet walk, reaching the modern and original sculpture called Homenatge a la Nataciò (Homage to Swimming). This is probably the best place to enjoy the seaside view, as the cement is replaced at last by a wide sand beach (Platja de Sant Miquel). Reversing the course of your stroll and heading northward, you will find more of it, as the Platja de Sant Miquel later gives way to the Platja de Sant Sebastiàn. Another curious landmark, located right in the middle of the beach, is the Homenatge a la Barceloneta, a sort of tower commemorating the barracks once found in this area. Enjoying the paved promenade, flanked on the left by an endless series of restaurants, you will also have the chance to admire, in good weather, the coast line extending for a few kilometres towards the area of Port Olimpic and El Forum. However, once reached the end of the neighbourhood, you had probably better leave the promenade and cross again La Barceloneta, heading back towards the city. The following segment of beach, indeed, has nothing interesting to offer, and the huge sculpture called El Peix (The Fish) is too far (and not interesting enough) to be worth the detour.