Wintertime in the Chimgan Mountains
Life during wintertime can get rather dull and monotonous in Uzbekistan. This landlocked country is situated in the south of Russia, so I am sure you can imagine how cold the winters can get. Fortunately, I lived in the capital city of Tashkent, which allowed us to indulge in a variety of amorous activities. To take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city life, friends and I would occasionally leave Tashkent to enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery.
The Chimgan Mountains are one of the most impressive geographical landmarks situated in Uzbekistan. These range of mountains make an excellent winter getaway for many reasons, and I cannot wait to share them with you!
Where is it located? How does one get there?
The Chimgan Mountains are located in the Tashkent province, northeast of the capital city. There are a few different ways you can travel there:
- By taxi: There is a special stop for taxis heading to Tashkent’s mountain resort, and it is situated at the Maksim Gorkiy station. Fares are usually around 25, 000- 30, 000 Uzbek soms (UZS), which converted into dollars is only $3-5 per person! What a great deal, right? If you do not come with a party of four people, then the taxi driver will make you wait until the car fills up. Usually, the wait is not too long as there are many locals who commute to and from the mountains on a daily basis. Traveling by taxi will take you roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes.
- By minibus: The station where the minibus take-off is in a place called Durmon. The minibus usually hold about 12 people and you have to wait until the entire bus fills up otherwise, the driver will not move. And again, this does not usually take too long because this is the cheapest way to travel to the mountains from the city therefore many locals choose to travel via this public transportation. In fact, you will usually see people already lined up, waiting for the minibus to arrive. There is no need to purchase any tickets, you usually pay the driver as you get off at your destination. Fares are only 3 UZS, which is less than 50 cents. The only disadvantage is that it takes a little longer to get there as the minibus make frequent stops at various stations on the way.
- By train: This is the form of transportation my friends and I have taken on numerous occasions! It is super convenient because it leaves from a central station in Tashkent.
The roads heading towards the mountain ranges can be rather dangerous so this would be a safer way to travel, especially during the winter season. The only downside is it takes longer to travel, roughly two hours. The train has been around since the Soviet era so it has worn out but it is a great way to travel with friends as it sits multiple passengers, which allows for face-to-face conversations. The train also leaves very early in the morning, 7:20 A. M. and there is a return train at 4:00 P. M., which gives you plenty of time to enjoy your excursion if you are going for a day tickets are only 3 UZS ($0. 50) per person! Sweet deal!
Once you arrive at the mountains area, you can travel from one spot to another by taking local taxis for very low fares! The concept is kind of like hitchhiking, except it is not free. And, do not worry it is completely safe!
What activities can you partake in at the mountains?
Skiing, snowboarding, sledding: the equipment for all three of these activities are available for rent. I cannot recall the exact prices per hour but it is super affordable for foreigners (approximately around $5/hour). Some of the equipment is a little worn out but you can definitely find newer items as well. The area for skiing and snowboarding is separate from the sledding area. I would not say either area are the safest zones but the few times I have been there, I have never experienced an accident nor witnessed one, but I would still voice precaution. There are no specific lanes for skiing or snowboarding. People are kind of all over the place so that is the dangerous aspect of it. If you cannot navigate well, then you might bump into other skiers/snowboarders and keep in mind, the establishment is not responsible for any accidents.
The mountains get a lot of snow during winter seasons so there is plenty of white powder to work with! A lift is available for extra charge (5 UZS, which is a little over 50 cents) for each lift to the top (or anywhere you want to get off). Unsurprisingly, the higher grounds and the peak area are less crowded compared to the lower grounds so experienced skiers/snowboarders might enjoy that more. For those who are inexperienced, there are trainers available for an extra cost as well.
- Jet-skiing: There are only a limited number of jet-skis available for rent. Usually, the owner of the jet-ski accompanies the client but if you are experienced then you might be able to convince them to go by yourself. The only disadvantage to this sport is that there is no designated area to jet-ski. Usually, jet skiers are riding at the edge of the same zone as the skiers and snowboarders, which is precisely a small area. As a skier, I felt very uncomfortable and nervous because the jet-skis were only a few meters away from me and it felt like at any moment if they were to lose control, they would ride into the skiers. The cost to jet-ski for about 15 minutes is around $2. 50.
- Riding horses: In a nearby area, you can also enjoy horse riding for a low price. Some locals who breed horses bring out their best, strong horses. There are different ways you can enjoy this activity. A designated route is given and if you prefer to take the horse for a ride yourself, you can do that. The horsemen usually recommend a more easy-going horse for those who want to ride on their own. And, if you are like me, then you might want the owner to accompany you on your ride. I was very nervous and quite anxious because I thought the horse would gallop away at any moment. But a little advice, just stay calm because the horse can sense everything you are feeling! The prices are the same for both options, roughly $1 for a route. You can also rent the horse for a timely basis and the price can be negotiated with the owner of the horse.
- Four-wheelers: this is another fun sport you can take part in at the mountains! There are several four-wheelers available for a ride. Same concept as the horse. A designated route is given and you can conduct it yourself or with the help of the owner. I think these babies are a lot of fun but I am always super scared for my life when I go on one of these! The four-wheelers share the same road as local cars, so you never know if there are cars coming from behind you or from the opposite direction. This can be rather dangerous if a car is speeding.
- Camels: You can also spot a couple of camels at the Chimgan mountains! What is special about these double humped camels is that they are native to Central Asia and Mongolia. They are referred to as Bactrian camels! In the middle east and the Arab peninsula, the camels are usually one-humped, also referred to as the Dromedary. I had no idea these creatures could withstand the cold weather because we are so used to the idea of seeing them only in a desert setting. This one here is named Bagi, and he is available for riding and taking photos. I did not ride him but I enjoyed feeding him and giving him some cuddly hugs. Also, this was the first time I had ever petted a camel! I was ecstatic!
- Chairlift to the peak: another cool activity you can enjoy is the chairlift. Many grow frightened and anxious at the sight of this chairlift, as it is pretty worn out and goes to a rather high altitude. However, do not be alarmed because it moves at a fairly slow speed! I have been on this chairlift several times and I think it is completely trustworthy and safe. The chairs are in decent condition and can carry heavy weights. There are also metal bars which serve as seat belts to prevent falling.
- Playing with stray cats: I don’t know if this would be considered as something to do in the mountains but I think it is definitely worth noting down! There are many feral cats wandering the resort and if you are a cat lover, you can enjoy petting them! Surprisingly, these wild cats do not fear humans probably because they are used to seeing many locals and tourists.
I would say horse-riding is pretty safe, even if you do not have any experience. These horses are pretty tamed and are under control. It can be quite depressing to see them all hovered into one place with their heads low. This might be a difficult scene to watch for those who love animals.
It is usually the responsibility of the four-wheeler driver to watch out for any oncoming cars from either direction. Whenever I go, I usually try to stay on the side of the road to prevent any dangerous accidents but that kind of takes the excitement from the activity! How can I fully experience and enjoy the ride if I must keep a constant watch for other cars? You must be extra careful and cautious of your speed and those around you. Again, costs are super cheap, only $1. 50/ride. This activity makes for great photos with the range of mountains serving as a backdrop. All in all, I think this fun activity could be well improved if the resort created a specific zone only where four-wheelers could drive!
I remember hearing about an accident, which resulted in a loss of a life. However, the accident had nothing to do with the security of the chairlift. A group of teenagers were drunk and played a bet and they decided the loser had to jump off one of the chairs at a certain altitude. They assumed the white powder below was soft thus, whoever jumped in would have a soft landing. However, these youngers did not consider the amount of snow, which was a lot! And as a result, unfortunately, the massive snow did take in one of the teenagers. This idiotic behaviour cost a teenager his life and by the time the emergency team reported to the area, the boy had already stopped breathing. It is illegal to board the chairlift if you are intoxicated however, the workers do not really enforce this regulation assiduously.
The line to the chairlifts can be rather long, but it does usually go pretty quickly. The waiting period is about 15-20 minutes. The cost, like other activities, is rather inexpensive and around $1/person. I would highly recommend this chairlift because once you are at the top, you have a very nice view of the mountain ranges. It also provides a superb view as the chairlift is descending because you get to take in the scenery of the town below.
What kind of foods are available?
There are a couple of Uzbek local eateries available near the mountain resort. These cafes are very ordinary and not at all costly. The conditions are that of a typical cafe. The menu consists of a few different types of Uzbek soups and meat dishes. Many clients usually go with the shashlik kabobs, which can either be beef or lamb.
Tip: Lamb kabobs are my favourite; they are just mouth-watering!
However, if you are high-maintenance or prefer European cuisine, then you can travel 20 minutes south to a place called the Bochka area where you will find a few high-end restaurants. One of them being Cinara’s. This restaurant is very well-known among locals! It might be affordable for foreigners but it runs higher according to local standards. The presentation and scenery of the restaurant is spectacular as it is situated in the middle of a vast garden with man-made waterfalls and low hills. You can also order Uzbek cuisine and there is also hookah available for those who enjoy smoking.
How is the shopping?
The Chimgan mountains are the perfect place to buy local dairy products. Since many locals have domestic animals, they use them to make money. Thus, you will see dried cheese balls (the spicy and basil ones are the absolute best), yogurt, and milk. What I loved about these products is that they are natural and organic. Before purchasing, you are welcome to taste first so don't shy away!
Many locals are also beekeepers! You will see some old RV's parked on the side of the roads, where you can check out how beekeepers live and make honey. I do recommend the honey of the mountains as they are more natural compared to store-bought honey.
There are also different types of nuts and seeds available for sale. I personally bought a couple of kilograms of sunflower seeds. The salted ones are delicious and can be addicting!
I also noticed a few sellers selling special herbs which are native to the Chimgan mountains. They claimed different herbs are beneficial for various illnesses, however, I did not purchase anything but if you are into that sort of thing, then this is definitely up your alley!
How are the facilities of the mountain resort?
There were two bathrooms available for use in the skiing/snowboarding area. It is not free of charge, you have to pay 1, 000 UZS, which is about 15 cents. The bathroom is not the cleanest, I mean what do you expect? Fortunately, there is toilet paper available so that is good news!
Also, there aren't any specified areas to change your clothes. I noticed that people who had travelled by car changed in their vehicles. If you are desperate, I am sure the two cafes by the resort would allow you to use their facilities for free.
There isn't any information desk available. The resort is sort of organized by locals and workers themselves. If there were some sort of issue or accident, I do not know who it would be reported to.
Accommodation for those planning to stay longer than a day?
There are several different places where visitors can stay during their time in the Chimgan Mountains. Usually, when you arrive at the main station, there are a group of men with signs reading "Arenda". This mean rent. These middlemen can assist you with finding a house or a room for rent in the resort area. If you are traveling by car, you will also see huge posters set on some parts of the road as you near the resort. It is also possible to find accommodation this way. Keep in mind, you can negotiate the price per night!
There are also hotels and resorts available such as the Charos DeLux Resort, the Sunny Breeze, the Pyramids, and others! These hotel resorts are some of the best ones in the country so they can be pretty costly per night but the conditions are amazing! If you can afford it, then I would definitely advise checking them out. My husband and I have stayed at the Charos DeLux Resort before and we enjoyed the facilities and the superb view of the mountains from our room.
Before I end this long blog post, I just want to depart with a little friendly tip: if you decide on a day escapade to the mountains, then leave early in the morning and return before nightfall. The roads can be quite dangerous and there are usually no taxis available to return to the city, and you do not want to be stranded in the mountains! Keep in mind, the public transportation stops running in the late afternoon as well, especially during the winter season. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed this post with these lovely photos, and I hope I have inspired you in some way to visit Uzbekistan and to experience the Chimgan Mountains.
Photo gallery
Content available in other languages
- Italiano: L'inverno tra i monti Chimgan
- Español: El invierno en las montañas Chimgan
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