Experience in Rijeka, Croatia by Doris

What is it like to live in Rijeka? Would you recommend it? What is the city like?

Rijeka is a harbour city on the northern Adriatic coast, with unpredictable weather, charming and hospitable people. It might seem serene and slow-paced at the first, yet once you get to know it, it gets under your skin easily.

Due to it's geographical position, it's an excellent starting point for weekend-getaways (to nearby Slovenia, Trieste, Zagreb, Croatian islands and Dalmatia, even Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia).

If you are looking to spend a semester at the seaside, in a student city that won't allow for "big city anonymity", Rijeka might just tick (all) your boxes.

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What is the student lifestyle like in Rijeka?

Though rather small, 13% of Rijeka's population are in fact students. The pros of student life in Rijeka: inexpensive meals with your student ID (full meal for less than 10 HRK = 1, 20 €); student facilities are close-by; if you are on Erasmus, you're most likely to meet all your fellow Erasmus students during your stay in Rijeka.

Downsides: The roads go uphill-downill, so riding a bike to classes is not very common here (a minus, if you're used to it). Also, charming as it may be, the city is rather small.

How much does it cost to live in Rijeka?

Approximate estimation:

• Flat-share: a room in the centre; approx. 150 € + utility costs 50 € / person/ month.
• Food: full meal with your student ID (so-called "ixica"); less than 10 HRK = 1, 20 €.
• Public (bus) transportation: approx. 17, 60 € / month.

Is it difficult to find accommodation in Rijeka? Is there any advice you can give?

Not especially. You can contact the local section of Erasmus Student Network: ESN Rijeka ( esn. [email protected]) who will assign you a "buddy", a student who can help you find accommodation.

Another option is to contact SSA (Agência de Alojamentos da Universidade; sveucilisni. [email protected]) specialized in student house hunting.

What is the food like? What are your favourite dishes?

The food is a mixture of mediterranean and continental cuisine (as everywhere else in Croatia, or the Balkans in general, there's quite a strong Turkish influence, e. g. minced meat dishes such as the famous "cevapcici" and "burek"). But if you'd like to try something genuinely local, look for "trattorias" that serve fresh fish and sea food (especially in the old town, around the city market).

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What places would you recommend visiting in Rijeka?

In the city centre:

• Korzo - the pedestrian zone of Rijeka
• Rijeka Old Town

Outside the city centre:

• Trsat castle - on a hill overlooking Rijeka.
• Small, picturesque towns along the coast: Volosko, Opatija, Lovran...
• Kantrida - quite a quirky football stadium by the sea.

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Is it good to eat out in Rijeka? Can you tell us your favourite spots?

Rijeka doesn't have a big eat-out culture, but if I had to recommend a place or two with good food, it would be bistro "Mornar" in the port (simple dishes and fresh fish, at student-friendly prices).

Is the nightlife good in Rijeka? Where is good to go?

Truth be told, the nightlife is not Rijeka's strongest suit, which doesn't mean you can't have a good time. If you're looking for a pre-drinking spot to meet new people, the plateau in front of Hotel Continental (popularly called "Kont") is the place you're looking for.

As for clubs, I'd recommend Palach and Život if you like rock / indie music, or Karolina, if you're into the mainstream.

But if you're looking for a nicely furnished cafe/bar with a relaxed atmosphere, ask for Cukarikafe (downtown) or Viva (in the western part of the city - Kantrida, overlooking the above-mentioned football stadium).

What advice would you give future students heading to Rijeka?

Whatever you do, don't miss out the big carnival taking place in late February or March, depending on the year. By all means, contact the local ESN section before coming to Rijeka and take part in their activities - it's a great way to meet people (both Erasmus and locals), travel cheap and stay updated on what's going on in Rijeka.

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