Cont is one of the iconic cafes in Rijeka. Although the cafe/pastry shop has changed many owners during its long history, it is still one of Rijeka's favourite places to hang out for people of all generations. The cafe is located on the ground floor of one of several Rijeka's hotels, hotel Continental and is in many ways a symbolic "museum" of childhood and youth memories for many generations of people living in this town .
THE BUILDING. The building where the cafe is large and very monumental, and it overlooks the river Rječina in the town centre. Designed by a local architect Mate Glavan, in the 19th century its aim was to become one of the central points of the developing town of the time. That aim was achieved, and the building turned out to become an elegant, palatial hotel of a strange triangular shape, one that every visitor or walker-by will have to notice, whether he wants it or not. The building soon became the cultural centre of Rijeka: it iwas where first theatre shows in Croatian language took place, as well as concerts by famous local musicians. The cafe, today's Cont, became a meeting place for poets, artists and musicians and turned ito the iconic town cafe.
THE TERRACE. One of the most attractive and important elements of the cafe is its terrace: also shaped as a triangle, set under the deep shade provided by lush chesnut trees, it is a wonderful place in spring and summer when the shade guards you from the sun and the breeze keeps you cool. During these times it is a real lottery to find an empty table, since the terrace is filled with locals: older people, reminiscing their youth and sharing their stories, young people, meeting their friends, sharing intimate moments with their significant others, children, running around, pets, running after them, and pigeons, trying to feed on the cake crumbs under the tables.
THE TRADITION. Tradition of sitting in Cont with a cup of coffe and a slice of cake is in many ways connected with the fact that one of the largest high schools in Rijeka, Sušak's Gymnasium, is situated only ten minutes away on foot. Ever since the beginning of the 20th centur, generation after generation came to Cont after school, to copy their homeworks and prepare for new school assignments. Since I was also a student of that school, we often spent our free time after (or before) school in the same way, and our teachers also took us there on special occasions to tell us about their Cont-related memories.
THE ATMOSPHERE. Cont has recently been completely refurbished and bought by a confectionery famous for creating some of the best cakes and pastries in Rijeka, Dolce Bolero. On that occasion, the interior of the cafe was refurbished in the adorable shabby-chic style, meaning a lot of cute details, shaded lamps and fluffy pillows. If it is cold, it's a wonderful, cozy place to have something to drink, and during warmer months, its terrace is the place to be for people watching and eating ice-cream.
THE CAKES. Cont is a dream place with anyone with a sweet tooth: its cakes are to die for. Best of the assortment include the Sacher cake, fruit pastries and "kremšnita" (a type of custard slices). To choose just one thing is close to being a mission impossible, and you usually just stand in front of the glass cases trying hard to decide what to have. What everyone should have in mind when put in front of such a difficult choice is that you can't go wrong.
WARMING UP FOR A NIGHT OUT. If ouget tired of the romantic atmosphere of the cafe, and you happen to be in Cont in the evening or on a weekend night, that's not a problem: the square in front of the cafe is the favourite spot to hang out for young people in Rijeka, and being there is the greatest way to find out more about the lifestyle of Rijeka's youth. Young people gather on the square (in Croatian, you say it, "Idemo na Kont"), sit around on benches or on the floor and talk, sing, play the guitar. It is a way of continuing the tradition of strong connection between Cont and young people and the majority, myself included, will tell you that sitting on Kont is better than visiting any club or bar. And that people you meet there will accept you and become your friends,since they just might be the best and coolest people you could possibly come in touch with during your stay in Rijeka :)
