A trip to Lleida

In my mind, Lleida was only associated, until last week, to the final destination of the train which usually brings me to work early in the morning. A place which was normally pointed at as a negative example as far as weather was concerned. "Estamos afortunados porque vivimos aquì, al lado del mar...con este sol y este calorcito no nos podemos quejar... imagìnate si estuvieramos en Lleida, con esa niebla y ese frìo! " (We are lucky beause we live here, on the coast... with such a warm and sunny weather we must not complain... try and think how bad it must be in Lleida, so cold and foggy! ) was more or less the average form for my colleagues to address this town. From my point of view, therefore, Lleida was apparently the least interesting among the main cities of Catalonia, obviously lacking all the attractions of Barcelona, but also devoid of the elegance of Girona and of the historical value and weather conditions blessing Tarragona. And yet, my recent trip was a really pleasant discovery, unveiling me a small but fascinating city.

Reaching Lleida from Vilanova i la Geltrù (or the nearby area) is not particularly difficult, though it may result quite long. Indeed, a regional train will bring you straight there, a journey lasting more or less a couple of hours and costing about 10 Euros. As an alternative, it is also possible to travel from Barcelona with much quicker trains (with the high speed train, called AVE, you will reach Leida in about one hour, though the ticket will be obviously more expensive). Anyway, once in the modern train station of Lleida, you will at last start your tour for this fascinating city.

Standing in front of the station, you may head straight to the city centre, but I would recommend turning left and reaching the centre through a pleasant detour. Indeed, as you will probably have seen from the train, next to the station a wonderful modern bridge, realised between 2007 and 2010 by the architect Javier Manterola, is located. The bridge, overlooking the Segre river, is called Puente Principe de Viana, and offers spectacular views of the city. Having gone through this 200-metres bridge, you will then make your way along a pleasant path, going along the right bank of the Segre and pompously called Camps Elisis. Though the view is partially spoilt by a series of rather ugly blocks-of-flats, you will be able to see from distance the old cathedral (or Seu Vella), gradually unveiled. Located at the top of the hill surmounting Lleida, it is at the same time the gem and the symbol of the city.

Going past the first bridge (from which you may appreciate some more nice views), you will then reach the second one, called Pont Vell (Old Bridge), finally crossing back to the right bank. Once there, by crossing with some difficulties one of the main avenues of the city, Avinguda de Francesc Macià, you will get to the heart of the city, namely Plaça de Sant Joan. This strange square, whose quite reduced size make it really cosy, is surrounded by interesting restaurants and coffee bars, besides a 19th century church devoted to Sant Joan. From this point, you may easily and rapidly reach La Seu Vella, in case you are visiting the city with very little time at disposal. A series of escalators, indeed, climbs from the northern side of the square to a special elevator which will bring you right in front of the old cathedral. Although, if you have planned to visit Lleida with the due time, you will probably had better leave the place from the opposite side, walking along Carrer Major.

As suggested by the name itself, it is the main street in the city, where the most elegant shops are located. Not by chance, it is usually quite crowded, with local people having a relaxing stroll or glancing at the shop windows. A few steps will lead you to Plaça de la Paeria, where the local town hall, called indeed Palacio de la Paeria, is located. The building, dating back to the 13th century, boasts a wonderful facade and houses a valuable Gothic style altarpiece, painted in the first decades of the 15th century. The palace also preserves some Roman ruins, which are open to the public to visit. Resuming your walk along Carrer Major and going past the church of Sant Pere, you will reach the building housing the tourist office of Lleida, where you will find interesting information and very useful maps which will help you in your tour.