The city that stole my heart: Granada (Erasmus)

"Granada, a la que se ama antes de verla y cuando se la ve, se la ama aún más. " (Granada, that you love before seeing it and that you love even more after seeing it. )

E. Stuart-Wortle

After having read this phrase, I realised that Granada wouldn't be a city like any other, but that it would become my second home.

Why did you choose to go to Granada, Spain?

I had to choose between Barcelona and Granada, but my professors told me that Chinese was taught well in the faculty of translation and interpretation at the University of Granada (which I would have something to say about... ). Furthermore, the faculty in Granada is located quite centrally, whilst the one in Barcelona was 40 minutes away by train, so I opted for the capital of Andalusia.

How long is the scholarship? How much money do you receive to help with living costs?

My grant lasted for five months, and I received €260 per month.

What is the student lifestyle like in Granada?

Marvellous. Being a university city and a popular destination for Erasmus students, you will find yourself immersed in an international environment, both in the university and in the city streets. As well as learning Spanish, there will be many opportunities for you to practice other languages (especially English, German and French).

Would you recommend the city and the University of Granada to other students?

I have nothing to say other than yes, absolutely. The city is fantastic and the level of teaching in the university is good for the majority of the courses.

What is the food like in the country?

In this aspect, there is no big shock for Italian students because, in general, Spanish food is very similar to Italian food.

Let's start with the desayuno (breakfast): café con leche y unas tostadas (coffee and toasted bread that can be topped with various things, such as tomato, oil, ham... ). But it will be difficult to find a good cappuccino or a decent espresso coffee. There are also croissants (very different to the ones eaten in Italy) and doughnuts.

For lunch/ dinner, the most famous dishes are the tortilla de patatas, a kind of omelette with potatoes inside, and the gazpacho andaluz, a cold vegetable soup (made with tomatoes, carrots, onions... ).

If you also love sweets as I do, there are so many to choose from: there are piononos (sponge cakes), the Torta de la Virgen de las Angustias filled with Cabello de Angel (a pumpkin-based jam), and during the Christmas season there are mantecados (shortbread), turrones (type of nougat treat) and Roscón de Reyes (and oval-shaped cake/ pastry). And for a typical snack (or for breakfast), there are churros con chocolate (I recommend trying the ones from the bar in Plaza Bib Rambla).

And then there is the tapas... Do you know about the Italian "aperitivo"? €5 for a cocktail with any appetiser? Well, in Granada they give you food such as potatoes (made in every way possible), small hamburgers, fried fish etc. to eat along with a tinto de verano (sparkling red wine) or a cerveza (beer) for €2. The quantity and variety depends, obviously, on the bar that you go to.

Was it difficult for you to find your accommodation in Granada?

Not particularly. I found my accommodation through a Facebook page (pisos en Granada), where your own roommates often publicise free rooms. However, for those who do not trust this (because the deposit generally has to be paid before you arrive), I knew people who booked a hostel for a week and searched for accommodation once they were here, or turned to the Oficina de Gestión de Alojamiento (accommodation office). The only advice I feel I should give is to arrive at the beginning or in the first half of September, because the later you arrive the more difficult it will be to find free rooms.

How much does it cost to live in Granada?

From what I know, a room costs from around €130 to €200, with some bills included. The price depends on the area that you stay in. Living costs are not as high in comparison to Italian university cities. For food shopping there is Mercadona, loved by all students for its low prices... and the mini doughnut box for €1. :)

Perhaps the only downside is the cost of a SIM card for your phone; I had a contract with the company Yoigo: 1GB of data and 20 minutes of free calls a month for €10. Compared to the offers I have in Italy, it's rather unfavourable. The major phone operators are: Movistar, Orange, Vodafone and Yoigo. I advise you to first compare internet and data and see what offer would be the most advantageous.

Is the language easy to get to grips with? Are there language courses available at the university?

I had been studying Spanish for 3 years now, so I could speak and understand well, but some of my friends went on an Erasmus to Spain without knowing the language and within 5/ 6 months they already understood it quite well. They even took the B2 language certificate at the Centro de Lenguas Modernas (Centre of Modern Languages).

There is also to say that in Granada they speak Granadan Spanish, which differs in some things from the "standard" pronunciation, so at first it will be a little difficult to understand anyone.

What is the cheapest way to get to Granada from your city?

Aeroplane from Milan to Malaga, and then a bus to Granada. In total I spent €60, more or less, for one way. I have seen that EasyJet added a direct flight from Milan to Granada in April 2017.

What places would you recommend going to for a night out?

As for the clubs, for the Erasmus students the three most famous are: Camborio, which offers a splendid view of the Alhambra; Boom Boom Room near Gran vía de Colón (it was an old theatre, the interior is very beautiful indeed) and Mae West, near to Camino de Ronda.

Students often go to the pub on Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón (calle = street). The Chupitería 69 is very famous, with over 100 shots to choose from for €1 each. There is also a collection of points, each chupito (shot) is worth one coupon and you can collect good prizes (the best one is the sweatshirt! )

I also loved going to the Bohemia Jazz Café, drinking a cup of tea in a café with a fantastic atmosphere and eating a really good chocolate tart :P.

And eating in Granada? Can you name some of your favourite places?

There are lots of teterías in Albaicín where you can drink tea, smoothies, eat crepes and smoke cachimba (hookah).

These are typical, colourful lamps that you will find in almost all the shops in Albaicín. Walking in the evening on the streets lit by these lamps is magical!

There are also many bars scattered around the streets where you can eat tapas (the Reina Monica in Albaicín is nice; you can choose three different tapas and drinks) or the famous 100 Montaditos with the Wednesday and Sunday promotion of tapas for €1!

You can eat well at Shawarma King, whethere you eat kebab or roast chicken, which can be found in Celle Reyes Católicos.

They serve various international dishers at Babel World Fusion, on Calle Elvira; the place is small, and it's almost always full, so get ready to wait a while before you can sit down!

What cultural sites are there to visit?

Granada is very full of cultural sites, wherever you go. My favorites are obviously the Alhambra; Parque Federico García Lorca with the Federico García Lorca House Museum; which is small but worth a guided tour for only €1 (offer for students); the gardens of Carmen de los Mártires; Parque de las Ciencias and Plaza de Toros. If you're interested, there are also lots of Flameco performances!

Recommended book to read before visiting the Alhambra: Tales of the Alhabmra by Washington Irving. (In Palacios Nazaríes there are rooms where Washington Irving stayed, sometimes the doors are open).

The famous Patio de los Leones in the Palacios Nazaríes (shame about the scaffolding! ).

House Museum of Federico García Lorca (Park Federico García Lorca).

One of the streets to reach the Mirador de San Miguel. How exhausting! But... But.. But...

The view is worth it!

Generalife Gardens of Granada in autumn.

Would you like to hear a song about Granada? Here it is: Granada - Claudio Villa