A weekend in Basel

For many Swiss people, Basel means the three Fs: football, Fasnacht and pharmaceuticals, all loved and hated in equal measure. But Switzerland’s third largest city has a lot more to offer than some effing stereotypes, a fact that is also lost on many foreigners visiting Switzerland. Basel is so tucked away on the northern edge of the country, bordering both France and Germany, that it’s not on the regular Geneva-Bern-Lucerne-Zurich route and is often forgotten.

Last weekend I was in Basel, and here are my five favourite (permanent) reasons to visit Switzerland’s most overlooked city:

1. The Rhine. Basel straddles Europe’s greatest river – a small part of the city (Kleinbasel) sits on the northern shore, even though the rest of that riverbank is German – and so acts as Switzerland’s gateway to the sea. What I love most are the four wooden ferries (known as Fahri) that gently glide across the river, taking foot passengers to the other side for Fr 1. 60. They use the river’s current to get across but are attached to a cable so that they don’t end up in the North Sea.

   

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2. The Münster. It’s more imposing than graceful but the red sandstone cathedral dominates the city skyline. Twin spires, a diamond patterned roof, peaceful cloisters and lovely views over the Rhine to Germany: what more could you want? You even get the grave of Erasmus of Rotterdam, a man who did a lot of thinking before dying in Basel in 1536.

   

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3. Läckerli. For the past 700 years or so, Basel has been famous for one product – Läckerli, a sort of hard gingerbread that originally was only made at New Year. Now you can buy it anywhere in Switzerland at any time, but a visit to the Lackerli Huus in Basel is always worth it. The biscuit is a mix of honey, nuts, candied fruit and spices like nutmeg and cinnamon. By the way, Läckerli doesn’t exist in English, but translates roughly as ‘small and delicious’.
4. The Rathaus. Switzerland has many a fine Rathaus, or Town Hall, but the one in Basel is perhaps the most striking: blood-red walls, gilded baubles, pretty tiled roofs, all crowned by an enormous tower. When the 15 guilds of Basel decided to join the Swiss Confederation in 1501, civic pride and an urge to say ‘We are an important city! ’ resulted in this monumental structure that dwarfs the square in front of it.

   

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5. The Tinguely Musuem. Amid all the museums and galleries that crowd into Basel, perhaps the quirkiest is the one dedicated to the Swiss artist Jean Tinguely. He was born in Fribourg but grew up in Basel, and created the most amazing sculptures you are ever likely to see. Many look like they were put together by a mad scientist using laboratory leftovers. If you thought the Swiss were dull, this museum will change your mind.

   

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Five great reasons to venture to Basel anytime of year – plus swimming in the Rhine in summer and the Christmas markets in December. And of course, coming along to say hello to next year.