Where to live in Athens: The crusade of the five neighbourhoods (2)

Hi everyone!

Continuing on from the previous entry about the different neighbourhoods of the city where you can live, the next two arrive. I've described Kallithea and Victoria in this post, which are relatively close to the centre.

I still have to mention, if I didn't do so before and if it's helpful, that neighbourhoods such as Thissio, Monastiraki, Akropoli and Petralona (historic centre of Athens) are usually quite expensive, but in better conditions. I didn't have the luck that allowed me to live in the aforementioned places, but sometimes it's more important how you live than where.

My next step, after returning to Madrid for a lovely time in the summer, was Maroussi (green line, north of Athens).

Maroussi

I lived for two short periods in this neighbourhood: in the Autumn and the other in the Summer, although I went there a lot to visit friends living in these areas.

Where is it?

It's located in the north of the city very close to the good neighbourhood of Kiffisia, quite far from the historic centre of Athens, although luckily it's well connected (relatively speaking). You just need to take the green line to get there, the renowned electric train, to the station with the same name. From the centre it usually takes around 25 minutes, and the best thing about going so far is that you can usually find a place to sit in the carriage. Another way is by bus, although it's not recommends unless you don't have any other choice (for example at night), as it takes quite a long time:

• 550 (Neo Faliro-Kiffissia): during the day. It travels the road/motorway of Kiffissias in the city, that's a little older version of the M30.
• A7 (Stournari, Eksarcheia - Kiffissia) during the day. The same as the 550, it runs along Kiffissias, but its advantage is that it leaves right from the centre.
• A8 (Politechnio - Nea Ionia - Marousi) during the day. If you go to the Polytechnic University in Zografou it will be more than useful to you, given that Maroussi and the University aren't well connected by metro.
• 500 (Piraios - Kiffissia) night bus. It takes the same route as the green line as the L buses used to do in Madrid back in the day.
• X14 (Syntagma - Kiffissia) express night bus. If you're lucky and you catch it you'll arrive from the centre in less than 20 minutes, but it passes every hour and a quarter, so I recommend using it for a trip as long as you pay serious attention to the time.

I have to say that the majority of the people I know who live here mostly drive their own cars everywhere, as it's more direct than any public transport, and for young people who go out at night it's useful and less stressful. However, on some days the residents in surrounding neighbourhoods are prohibited by law from passing through the centre in their cars on certain days, according to the last number of their license plate (if it's odd or even), so be aware of this if you're relying on a vehicle.

And the houses?

This is a good neighbourhood, which compensates for it being so far away from everything. In its day it was a village of the suburbs, and is very well-known for its production of ceramic objects. When it began to urbanise the prices went up, as the buildings and houses are big, modern, made for families that look for peace and quiet (version 2 of Madrid's neighbourhood Majadahonda, let's go). Because of this, rent in this neighbourhood can be around €700 and upwards, depending on the size, what's included and the age of the flat.

On the other hand, when I say that the houses are good it's because they have no issues. They usually have big terraces that are surrounded by all the rooms of the flat, a minimum of 3 rooms, and some flats are even doubled-up (in the old style, where the owners lived in one area, and the servants in another). They also have gardens, parking, chimneys... the place in the capital where you live the high life.

How are the streets here?

It's still Athens, so the footpaths carry on becoming scarce in the residential area. On the other hand, it's a very green neighbourhood, full of trees, small parks, squares, picnic areas, and also with a "shopping centre" near the station that's full of shops, cafés, bakeries, banks etc., made with pedestrian streets that avoid the danger of crazy drivers.

The buildings, as I mentioned, are quite modern, with terraces and gardens full of plants. You'll see the most curious thing about this neighbourhood when you look at the typical houses of the village that have remained from the past. They are usually owned by older people, and you can see the typical clothes lines from point to point of the fences, with small doors and windows. It's like being transported outside of the city for a brief moment, but unfortunately not for long enough.

And life in general, how is it?

In Maroussi, the lifestyle is more residential and family-oriented, where you stay at home or you go and see your friends at their houses. The streets are quite calm and not noisy, so you can simply go out on the porch with a coffee and a book, without having to find peace and quiet elsewhere.

On the other hand, if you feel like going shopping or taking a walk, I'd definitely recommend going to the pedestrian zone of the station, that as I've said is chock-full of shops. There are several supermarkets, and a street market on Saturday mornings. Remember though that everything closes on Sundays.

It's less common to see many traditional cafes (those full of old men smoking) at the foot of the street like in the centre, but they exist, above all in front of the station, where it's much more expensive than those in other streets. I'll provide a list of three places in the area of places to have a coffee that are quite alternative:

• Troxalia: (its name translates to "pulley") a big cafe, with two floors, ideal for those who love studying in public places. It's open from quite early to late. It has a variety of music, the pattern of which I still don't understand, because they play everything from Spanish to typical Greek music, and then also the club classics. It has a terrace that, in the spring and summer, without doubt you'll want to sit and have a beer or eat some dinner, and the prices are the lowest you'll find in Maroussi. There are usually live concerts at the weekends playing traditional Greek music. It's on the street named Thisseos, 5 minutes from the station, next to a square.
• Spirto: (its name translates to "matchstick") it's a very small café in front of another square on the street Vass. Sofias. It's decorated with photos, ornaments, flowerpots, and although it seems a little shady it's quite welcoming. On its second floor, also, it has temporary exhibitions of drawings and paintings that the visitors can make when they want, as they've hung a frame with a blank roll of paper on the wall where you can unleash your creativity if you want. There's also a blackboard. They usually play rock music, and at the weekends they also organise events such as concerts or art exhibits, even different courses (writing, design, illustration... ). It's around 10 minutes from the station.
• Blue Print: for lovers of hard rock and metal, like me, this is the bar for you. It's quite typical, 100% related to its music genre, and perfect for having a beer in the evening (although it's a bit more expensive). It has tables and a long wooden bar, quite good to go with a small group of friends to talk (maybe shouting a little) and laugh. It's in the street Sofias nº 15, in the direction of Kiffissias (the road).

To summarise, there are quite a few more places to go out, but not as many neither as cheap as those in the centre of Athens, of that I'm sure.

Is there anything of interest?

In addition to cafes and shops, there are two elements that you'll maybe not find so easily in other areas:

• On one side, there are two local "Escape Rooms" to play in groups with different modes, also in the pedestrian zone of the station. Being a far-away neighbourhood, it's easier to find a place on the date that you want.
• There's a little forest very close to this neighbourhood, natural and large (Alsos Ktimatos Siggrou is the name). It's a type of summer house. It's ideal for running or taking a walk, it has football fields and basketball courts, and a very curious maze of paths that will get you lost amongst the trees. For a city so deprived of parks, it's a good option to be a bit more immersed with the company of small creatures, birds, wood and streams. Or to kick off the morning run if you want to burn off the souvlaki from the previous night.

Why did you move?

There were several personal reasons, but in particular I'm not a stay-at-home kind of person, and it was quite difficult when I went out or to do interesting activities as it took a lot of time. More than once I was stuck in the centre waiting for the bus at night, or cutting short my plans having not enough time to arrive. Also, as a student, the time when I had to leave to go to university was the opposite of convenient (the laziness was strong).

I hope you have a good reason to live there, if not, you'll experience its energy if you visit the area every once in a while.

Exarcheia

I write this name differently every time, but in English you pronounce it "ek-sar-hee-ah", which is what's important. It's Εξαρχεια written in Greek.

I have written a post focusing on this neighbourhood, but I'll talk a little bit about it here.

Where is it?

Right in the centre, between Omonia and Victoria. The most symbolic thing in this neighbourhood is the square with the same name, Πλατεία Εξαρχείων, where most of the people are. However, the neighbourhood extends around the same square up to the Avenue Alexandras (towards Victoria) and the avenue Akadimias (towards Omonia). If you start going up the hills towards Syntagma you'll arrive at the half-border with the neighbourhood of Kolonaki, curious for being a quite rich and well maintained neighbourhood, unlike Exarcheia, but now we'll see why.

To get to Exarcheia you can walk from the green line stations in Omonia (along the street Themistokleous) or in Victoria (28 Oktobriou and go up Stournari). On the other hand, there are buses that stop very close-by, but according to from where you're coming. The most well-known are the A7 and the 46, although any bus stops in front of the Architecture University (the old Polytechnic) on the street 28 Oktobriou. Go to the official website to see the bus schedules.

Walking from any place in the city, even from Monastiraki, it won't take long. No more than half an hour, honestly.

The houses?

Well, compared to Maroussi for example, they have nothing in common. Exarcheia is an old neighbourhood. Previously, around 50 years ago more or less, it was a very family-oriented neighbourhood but the people were those who had migrated to Athens from the villages (a typical phenomenon in those days, seeking a good future in the big cities). Now these houses are a bit antiquated, and although they are big (3 or 4 bedrooms easily), many haven't been renovated as it costs too much, or they don't even have a lift.

On the other hand, it's all compensated for by the price and the atmosphere it now has, which is part of the pleasure of living there. It's very easy to find student flats, both individual studios (as it is in my case) or shared flats. You won't pay more than €250 in a shared flat, and if you do it will only be those near Kolonaki. The closer you are to the square of 28 Oktobriou, the lower the prices will be.

As I said, the houses aren't very luxurious unless they've been especially renovated. But the rooms and lounges are generally quite big, and you'll usually have no issues if you're looking for a furnished flat. Mine was an individual studio with a bed, and I was lucky that it had been recently renovated. On the other hand, I had to suffer a bit this especially cold winter, because of the central heating, and it was turned off at night. That being said, it was nothing a thick blanket couldn't solve.

Although it's difficult to admit it however, there are houses that generally don't cause problems, with the exception that, if they're old, they have the problem of bugs (as I explained with my house in Victoria). You'll see in the summer, with the cockroaches, mosquitos and flies spreading like wildfire, If the flat is constructed with wood, termites may also take advantage of the feast, but in any case the owners are usually on top of it, and I've not heard of any case where fumigation was necessary. A whack of a shoe every now and then is enough, but you just have to be aware.

Streets without pavements?

I'm afraid so. As I said, it's an old neighbourhood. Specifically, the history of its origin and its name is that, in the days when this "centre" was the suburbs (because Akropolis and its surroundings used to be the city centre, following a little the history of Ancient Greece), a great lord settled there of the same name and acquired the neighbourhood, as it was him who gave shelter and land to many people who came to stay near the city. But things had changed a lot, and if it has been left so abandoned it's due to the reputation it has now.

The streets and the square are dirty by general rule, the pavements broken, the bins, the walls...It's not very well-maintained, but it's that the idea that springs from its people is the importance of life in a free community and the exclusion of the law. That's to say, it's the quintessential anarchist neighbourhood. You'll find anarchist groups in many streets that organise talks and political movements quite frequently, the majority focus on shelters for refugees of war or immigrants. In addition, despite the filth or lack of maintenance as has been understood, in general the neighbourhood is full of street art. It's the greatest concentration of pictorial works of all kinds in any corner, on balconies, on doors, on posters, on garages... The freedom of expression and the concentration of ideological and political groups are what attracts most foreigners to live and work near this neighbourhood, especially if you are interested in doing voluntary work, journalism or art.

Is daily life chaotic here?

No. This is what the experts know, and it's not unusual t find someone who'll recommend against living there or even just walking through. It's the reputation that this neighbourhood has gained, but it's worth checking that it's not how it is.

However, there are two main episodes a year in Exarcheia that might make it seem a dangerous place, due to the image it gives. A little history:

1. The day of Politechnio: it's celebrated on the 28th October and it's against the dictatorial regime that existed in former times (it didn't last long). That day the military police burst into the interior of the university, breaking down a door with a tank, to discourage the students that were there on strike. This was unconstitutional (police were banned from entering universities), and every 28th October they are reminded that they're not welcome in Exarcheia. However, what happens on this day is not very correct either.

   The people gather in the square and prepare to break and destroy the surroundings. They make Molotov cocktails, they throw stones and they deliver beatings to those who aren't on their side (they don't do that as much as the other things). On their part, the police maintain the perimeter that surrounds the square, trying to discourage the residents, and they block the entry once it begins, and they try to catch the "revolutionaries" that pass the perimeter to take them to the police station. In addition, they throw tear gas, that can reach and enter the houses.

   In itself and seen from any perspective, it seems more like a game of "bulldog", which makes it a little sad given the importance of the reason behind the celebration. There are those who see it as a true act of bravery against a corrupt system, and others like myself who think it's barbaric, as those who have businesses or houses nearby don't deserve to suffer the damage caused by this "half-fight". On the other hand, this idea is defended every day but in different ways, and for this Exarcheia keeps the police in check on its streets (they stay on the perimeter in a vigilant way), organising strikes, marches, talks and gigs in its square and at the university quite frequently.

2. 6th December: commemorates the death of a 15 year old boy, Alexis Grigoropoulos, that was shot and killed by a policeman during the riots of the time in the neighbourhood of Exarcheia. His actual memorial plaque is in the pedestrian street Messologiou. This happened on the 6th December 2008.

   In the name of this boy, the youth of Athens were invigorated with the need to revolutionise 10 years ago, fighting for a "better future" far from political corruption and police brutality, the poor education system, racial discrimination, again recreating ferocious riots, strikes and marches remembering the citizens that don't accept any of these miserable conditions, some that resonates strongly with the crisis.

On the other hand, this community causes some people to be scared, as it consists of anarchist groups, immigrant families and workers (that unfortunately are branded as "thieves"), and the drug trade, however, it's the best place to provide community social assistance, learn about other cultures, and have a beer and relax surrounded by people, given that this neighbourhood is always busy.

Why did you leave?

Unfortunately, because my rent ran out the clock, so I had to leave. But despite moving, I go to Exarcheia almost every day, or better every night.

Right guys, that's all for now, and we'll end the tour in the neighbourhood in which I currently live. Until the next post!

Photo gallery