Hey everyone!
I would like to share some information with you about one place in the very centre of Zagreb. This park can be described as a hidden oasis in the old town close to the main square as it mostly remains "unexplored" by many visitors of Zagreb. Hidden behind the cathedral and leading towards the northern part of Zagreb Ribnjak remains unknown to the tourists. However, let me tell you why you should visit the park and what else is happening there throughout the year.
Location and how to reach it
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The park is situated in the old part of the city, in the Old Town. Simplified, the park is situated between the Zagreb's Cathedral and the Sports Recreative Center Šalata (SRC Šalata). It is directly behind the walls of the Cathedral and between the street of the same name - Ulica Ribnjak.
Now, there are several ways to get into the park. Let us say you are now at the main square, trg bana Josipa Jelačića, and want to get to the park. What are you going to do?
You can take a 5 minutes long walk directly to the southern entrance of the park. If you are standing next to the statue of Mr Jelačić then head towards the NW, you will see the opening between the square and other streets at the corner of the Gradska Kavana where you can go up the road to the Cathedral. But you are not going to do that. Go to the corner and then follow the Ulica Augusta Cesarca which has lots of banks and trees until reaching in less than a minute Europski trg. There is an ugly monument consisting of a huge yellow star representing the European Union and some cube beneath. Continue through this broad street-square until you reach its end where the road with cars starts. Once you reach the Palmotićeva Street go to your left to the north and you will notice the greenery. It takes about 1-2 minutes till the southern point of the park. If you want to continue to the central gates you continue walking for about 3-4 more minutes.
Okay, I mentioned the main square as that's where the majority of the Erasmus students always gathers up. Actually, the square is the most popular place to meet (next to the statue or under the clock) for the locals as well.
What about trams or cars? There are several tram lines that will get you close to the park. You are lucky because park is situated close to the main square and Draškovićeva Street. You can access it by using:
- Tram 8 (Zapruđe-Mihaljevac) - leave at the stop Draškovićeva and then walk towards the north for about 2-3 minutes and you in the park! There is one more stop called Ribnjak which will go from south to north along the park and then you will have to walk again 2-3 minutes to reach the northern entrance.
- The tram lines that also stop here are 4 (Savski most - Dubec), 14 (Zapruđe-Mihaljevac... but goes the other way round), 12 (Ljubljanica-Dubrava) and 11 (Črnomerec-Dubec).
- Tram 14 is also going to stop at the next stop Ribnjak but since it goes through Savska, Ilica and before Draškovićeva stops at the Main square you can also leave there.
- To get there by car you can try to find a parking lot in Ulica Ribnjak along the park. There are also parking lots in the underground, garage, at Langov Trg. It is the little square in the shape of an triangle. It is right next to the southern entrance where Palmotićeva Ulica and Ulica Ribnjak merge into each other.
The park has in total 5 entrances. Two of them in the south, two in the north and one central. I am going to refer to the pair of those in the north and the south as only one (but they are pretty close to each other so it's okay).
Short history of the park
Before we discover the corners of the park and what happens there here a few words about the history of the park. The name 'Ribnjak' actually means 'the fish pond' and indeed it used to be a larger artificial pond as a property of the bishops of Kaptol (the neighbourhood or little town with the Cathedral in its centre which later merged with other hill and town of Gradec into modern Zagreb). It used the water from the creek of Medveščak it was then turned into a city park.
Even now Ribnjak is one of the most beautiful parks Zagreb has though much smaller than its neighbours in Maksimir, Jarun or Bundek.
What can you find inside?
There are three exits at the northern and southern point plus the one in the centre which also allows cars and other bigger vehicles to enter the park. Cars can actually also get into the park by using the closest entrance with a ramp at both northern and southern point. That road in the middle will lead you to the buildings under the walls of the Cathedral. These are the Youth Centre 'Ribnjak', a cultural centre, and the cafe 'Rock klub Ribnjak'. There is also the Rock Akademija music school. More of it later.
Now what does the park look like and what you can find there?
1) The southern half
Let us begin with the southern half. I forgot to mention the whole area of the park is enclosed with a metal and something high wall that has only three openings (those three exits). I used to walk on them when I was a kid which always worried the person who went to the park with me. I never fell though. Okay, so once you enter the park first thing you notice are the stairs made from stone that climb 3-4 metres up the small hill. The second thing you will notice once you enter the park is the toilet (rest room) to your left which sometimes used to stink for months...actually for years... until it got finally cleaned and renovated. The renovated rest room looks much better now and you should not be feared.
We continue climbing up for several seconds and then the road goes down. The park has many pathways and we are going to have now about 4 options where to go. Even I when walking around the park forget about at least 2 of them hidden behind the trees or bushes.
You are going to have the option to go to your left, but really left close to the walls. The path goes up the small hill and is directly under the walls. To be honest it took me years to discover this one, I think I was fully aware of it at the end of elementary school. I always used to see something but could not get the beginning or the end of the path. This one path is on half of its way covered by the dense trees (maybe pine trees) and bushes and you will most likely find couples relaxing there, some seniors sleeping or a homeless guy sleeping on one of the benches. Then the road goes again downhills and meets another one, I would call it "the circula path" that goes around the whole park all the time near the walls either of the Cathedral or the ones towards the Ribnjak Street.
I have to add that the walls of Cathedral are relatively high. In the southern part especially within the range of 50-60 meters of the Youth Centre building the walls at least 5-6 meters high and there is no way you can simply jump over them (and do not try! ). At the rest of the park they are about 2 till 3 meters high.
We have 3-4 other paths left. Being there at the "crossroad" you can choose to go left and by using the "circular path" which will lead you within 2-3 minutes in the centre of the park and in front of the Youth Centre and the bar. There the road also splits into two parts.
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If you decide to continue walking forward you will start getting into a small "valley" which has sort of two ponds on each side of it. There you will see the small stone bride over the canal that today unfortunately got dry. There is also a wooden fence over the bridge. This part of the park used to be one of two most mysterious or fun places for all the children when playing here. In the summer days when everything is full of greenery and bushes it is a pleasure to discover what it hides. And if there was a rain falling those ponds would get filled with water which then looked like a little park lake. These lakes occur at three places here in the southern part and in the bigger "valley"-meadow in the northern one. It looks also very beautiful, especially in autumn and spring when there are lots of periods with rain and the leaves turn into autumn colours or the green ones in spring. I would vote for the autumn.
Walking further on this central path you will climb up a bit again and reach another crossroads beneath the huge oak tree of about 3-4 more paths. You can also see the squirrels here and the big mushroom growing on threes. This small peak is especially fun when you are on the bike and just slide down the road and start climbing up. Next to your right is a bigger valley full of grass surrounded with the roads that go beneath the wall next to the Ribnjak Street. This part can be also full of water and looks attractive.
There is one meadow near the central area of the park that is also very popular in summer when some festivals and activities take place. There are again several benches on our way to the centre where you can sit and relax.
2) The central part of the park
Okay, the centre of the park has a few things the others do not have and can be called the social soul of Ribnjak. Once you enter the main gates you will notice the children playground which consists of 2 fields. The newer one and the renovated one is right close to the street and the walls. There you can find several seesaws and a platform of several constructions where children can slide down the toboggan, walk on the net, jump from one place to another etc. You will also see the two towers of the cathedral which looks pretty cool among the trees.
The other playground is actually an abandoned place today. It is about the sand pool that is not popular anymore. It is actually pretty big and close to some special trees and bushes which used to serve us long time ago as a fortress and a perfect spot to play the game of hunting. I think it is used nowadays mostly by the pet owners... or rather their pets, if you know what I mean.
Between these two in the very centre of the park is a fountain and a well in the shape of a circle. Except for fun with the water (throwing it at each other) there is the fresh water from the 3 taps you can access. This was always of importance when I used to go by bike around the city alone or with friends. We would then stop by Ribnjak to satisfy our thirst and refill the bottles. Sometimes though the pond is dry and even the water from the taps was closed. It was always a bad surprise but should not be problems today.
The last to mention here is the building which is primarily the Youth Centre 'Ribnjak' which used to organise many events and festivals throughout the summer in the past years along with the former Purgeraj club (today "Rock klub Ribnjak"). The other institutions here are the Rock Akademija and the Rock klub Ribnjak which is a very popular place on the weekends evenings and there are also concerts being organised in the welcoming hallway.
The bar has also both enclosed and open space to sit and enjoy the drink outside. It is very popular in summer and I recommend you visiting it!
Next to the building you will notice several sculptures and a very old red stage on the wheels. This stage is kind of iconic as it used to be a place where the popular Klinci s Ribnjaka (Kids from Ribnjak) would sing as a choir. It has not changed its position for years.. at least for almost 20 years as I remember it. However, during the nights especially when the park becomes a popular place for the youth to come and hang out (or drink) it is a large "chair" for a large number of youth who enjoy their evening in Ribnjak.
3) The northern half
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Because it is not in my direction I usually do not spend much time in the northern part of the park. Though if you are looking for more of the sunlight and space you are going to like it.
The border between the centre and this for me has always represented one small bridge over the canal right behind the stage and there is a hill (the highest peak of the park) after children's playground. It is kind of a barrier and also an isolation since you cannot see the other side.
Speaking of the hill there used to be some house long time that was removed but the stone basis remained. Now it is filled with the grass. Hidden behind the bushes you can find another restroom house though I doubt anyone has ever used it (rather go to the southern part or ask in the building if you can go to the public one).
Behind the hill you will walk under the tall trees where it is practically whole day everything in the shadows and a bit cooler. There again many benches and after a minute or two from the playground you will come across a small circular place with the flowers in the middle. This is also kind of a crossroads as there are paths from many directions leading here. After this there biggest free meadow (free of trees) starts. There is a huge sculpture-monument in the middle and some bushes close to the side of the walls of Cathedral (where the road also goes a bit up the hill).
4) By bike through the park
Speaking of the bicycles if you have one it would be shame not to visit Ribnjak at least a few times by bike. I suggest you this especially if you are going around the town or just want to escape the crowds and the noise of the city. Ribnjak will also prove to be a good place to study in peace and greenery (if the weather is warm and dry).
5) Children and pets
Naturally, the park is very popular destination for all the pet owners living close by and the families with children. Especially in summer time (or spring and autumn when it is still warm enough) there can be pretty much people out there!
The good thing - it is never over crowded. I cannot remember any time I visited the park that it had too many visitors that would annoy you. The truth is though that during the popular festivals and during Easter holidays when there was a small amusement park on the wheels the park was full of visitors. That was all though many years ago and only a few activities remained.
Park in all four seasons
During the cold winter days it is not that popular during the day but still has many loyal visitors such as the pet owners and the seniors who go walking there. Last years jogging has become more and more popular which attracts not only the locals but the foreigners who go running through the park so you can see them too. We can also mention the bar which is always a good option to hang out and the program and activities at the Youth Centre 'Ribnjak' and those who visit the music academy.
Here are some photographs during the seasons.
Festivals and events
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During the winter and summer there are several events going on. There are some activities organised within the Youth Centre 'Ribnjak' mostly for the children and last years for the youth too. In summer the same organisers organise festivals such as Park in Zagreb which attracted many visitors at the beginning of summer with a diverse offer of free activities such as djembe workshop, art and design workshops, capoeira dance, playing didgeridoo, film and animation workshops and many more.
If you are staying in Zagreb until at least July or its end do not miss the events in the park and follow the news on the portals online.
Conclusion
Ribnjak is indeed an oasis in the centre of the city that enables you to escape the crowds and noise of the streets and replace them with the greenery and peace. The park's relief is just perfect as it offers a bit of everything for each personality. Whether you are more a solo player and prefer to go around and spend time alone or wish to walk around and with friends you surely have to visit the park.
Thanks for reading
