Find your inner peace in Glendalough, Ireland
When I visited Ireland, I could only stay there for four days and that's something that saddens me. I think it's one of those places that you must stay in for a whole month and see it in its entirety. This emerald island has so many things to show you, it's very safe and calm, and I have even been told that there have been people who have travelled around the entire country without spending a penny on transport! So, if you feel adventurous enough, or poor rather, you can travel the length and breadth of this beautiful island by requesting rides from people. In many countries in Latin America, this would be a certain death sentence, but, in Ireland, there's no need to worry about it.
A common mistake made with Ireland is that the most important thing would be to stay in the capital for the majority of your trip. In countries like the United Kingdom and France, whose capitals, London and Paris, are usually the main tourist attractions, people cannot easily drag themselves away from the endless history and famous monuments available for them to get to know and see. In Ireland, the situation is somewhat different, but that's not due to Dublin (the capital of the Republic of Ireland) not being important, because it really is! In the capital, you will be able to find yourself surrounded by the beautiful Irish culture, the famous pubs where you will see the Irish finishing 2 litres of beer by themselves, you will be able to drink the famous Guinness beer there, make new friends, and learn lots about Ireland's history. Interestingly, the Vikings formed an important part of the medieval period of Irish history, until they were dominated by the Anglo-Normans, before they ended up controlling England. There are lots of things to do in Dublin, and it's true that you are going to have fun, but you will also want to experience Ireland's true charm, the one that will make you sigh, fall in love and make you understand why many people have the idea of coming for a few months and then end up staying for their whole lives. One of these places is Glendalough, which is located in the county of Wicklow, and is one of the most well-known and most visited places among tourists.
Now I want to return to Ireland, and I have decided that when I return, I will go to Dublin for just a couple of days, rather than spending the duration of my entire trip here. What will change now, however, is that going to tours, like the one in Wicklow, is going to be more of a priority than just staying in the city centre.
How much does the tour cost?
I don't remember the exact price of the tour, but what I do remember is that it was around 35€, which would work out at around $41. 80 or $812 Mexican pesos. I do remember, and now I will take advantage of the situation to do some publicity for it, is that they gave us a 6€ discount for having bought the Dublin Pass. If you want more information about the Dublin Pass, you can check out my blog where I explain what it consists of and what the advantages of having it are (I honestly really recommend it).
Let's begin the tour
The tour usually starts on time, at around 8am, from various points across the city. When they sell you your ticket, they will give you a map so you can find the bus stop that is closest to where you are staying. In our experience, it almost always stops close to Trinity College Dublin. During the month of January, which is when we had the pleasure of visiting Ireland, it is usually the off-peak season, so the tour only had around 20 people on it and, consequently, the bus wasn't full. However, during March (which is when Saint Patrick's day is celebrated) and in the summertime, they told us that the tours get quite busy.
The tour is conducted in English, but you can search for tours run by agencies that only do them in Spanish, but you have to consider that is actually conducted in Castilian. However, this shouldn't be an impediment at all as they say, in fact, that Castilian is "perfect Spanish".
The man who conducted our tour was in his sixties, was extremely happy, and gave the tour as if it was the first time that he had ever done so in his life: the sheer happiness and excitement that he has in sharing a little bit of his country's culture doesn't seem to end, despite having been giving this tour for the last twenty years! From the moment the engine starts, he will begin to explain the Irish culture to you, telling you one of the many theories that exist about why they paint the doors in many colours, why the architecture of the houses is the way it is (they tend to be extended, like those in London), and he will tell you some fun facts about the day-to-day life of the Irish. He will also take advantage of the opportunity to tell you a little bit about politics in Ireland: what the elections are like, when each one is held, and he will even give you his personal take on how he thinks the current president has ruled. As the bus makes its way through the city, he will also give you a brief explanation of where you currently are in Dublin, the wealthiest areas (which is something you will later see), the bridges, parks and monuments, as well as the history behind the construction of each of these.
We were so tired from having walked around Dublin during the days prior to this tour, given that Dublin is a very walkable city, that we ended up falling asleep during part of the journey. I lost all sense of time, but I remember that we arrived in just under two hours... I am almost certain that it took us an hour and a half to get to Glendalough.
Arriving at Glendalough
You don't really know when you've actually arrived in Glendalough, as it's in the county of Wicklow, within the National Park. Everything is so big and green, which makes it difficult to differentiate one area from another. You only know you've arrived once the bus finally comes to a final stop.
(Everything is green, green, green. These beautiful hills make everyone sigh, right? )
We got off the bus and the guide directed us through Glendalough. For thousands of years, people have known it as "the valley of the two rivers", as you can see how the two rivers just together until they reach a lake (which you will be able to see in the photo inserted below). The area is also known for its SPECTACULAR landscapes - they honestly take your breath away. Not only will your pupil shine when you see so much beauty, but you will also learn quite a bit, as it's a place rich in history and archaeology. It will be normal to see a steady stream of wildlife making an appearance around here.
(In the background, you can see the two rivers coming down the mountains, which makes this the valley of the two rivers. In this photo, you can't see it very much, but the wind was considerably strong and it made all my hair fly over to one side. )
Being a mountainous area, you will have to go there prepared for the wind that there's going to be; there will be many a time where you'll feel like if you were a few kilos lighter, you would be flying!
Walking around the park
Whilst walking down the path, the guide told us a little about the history of the place - in particular, that it's protected by the government - and, truthfully, they have done a great job because it's excellently preserved. You will be able to take photographs of yourself on the wooden bridges there, with the trees, and you will even be able to see lots of animals. The coolest thing is that many of them don't move - they aren't scared of you. I took the photo that you can see below in the park and I was really close to that little bird, but he never moved... this shows the culture of respect that the endogenous animals have, and it's reflected in this attitude towards the tourists.
(The photo of the photogenic little bird who wasn't at all bothered about posing for me. The guide told me that this is one of the endemic species in Ireland. How lucky was I to have been able to find one?! )
It's impossible not to feel inspired when you are surrounded by mountains, green paths, different trees, and photogenic animals. One of the objectives of the valley is the preservation of flora and fauna, as there are endangered species that are strictly cared for by the park through very ambitious preservation projects. It wouldn't be strange for you to find rabbits, rodents and birds, and if you're lucky, you might even find a deer.
(You could never get tired of seeing these kinds of landscapes. This is part of the journey that we did on foot with the guide. )
The deer stone
Walking a little further along the Glendalough path, you will find a stone which, at first sight, you would dismiss it as being like any other, but, thanks to the guide, we learnt about the history behind it. You see? It's for reasons like these that it's good to take a guided tour from time to time.
This stone is the famous "deer stone". They are many other ways of finding luck whilst in Ireland, and for that reason, you don't need to chase goblins until you find your pots of gold hidden behind a rainbow! Don't hesitate in trying your luck with this stone, which has an important history associated with Saint Kevin. The legend states that a woman died giving birth to twins on that very stone. Her husband was devastated, as he was a lowly worker who didn't earn enough money to be able to support those two children. Without a doubt, he was looking for help from Saint Kevin, who, in turn, prayed to God for help. Some days later, a doe led the man to that stone, where he would find milk for his children by simply just placing his fingers against it. The opportunity to take a photo here could not be missed, as the guide told us that when you put one of your hands in the water and the other on the stone (which, in fact, already has the traces of all the people who have put their fingers in there), you will be able to return to Ireland! However, many others simply wish for something good. The luck of the Irish is with you!
(Here I am, grasping onto any luck I had to put my hand in the river water and the other where the man from the legend supposedly put his hundreds of years ago. )
Glendalough Monastic Site
And it's here where we admired, yet also learnt a lot about, Ireland's history. The Monastic Site is more than perfect if you are interested in visiting this Christian monastic settlement, which dates back to the 6th century. This place was also founded by the famous Saint Kevin, who we spoke about during the legend of the deer stone. This place is located within a defined area, where you will able to find an old cemetery (but, don't worry, there's nothing to be scared about! ). This cemetery is so, so, so old that many of the tombs there are over a thousand years old. It will be impossible for you to find one where you can see the name of the deceased and the year that they died; time is not is forgiving and it has seemingly taken charge of wiping away all of that information from the stones.
(One of the many ancient churches at the monastic site. )
Ireland is a very Christian country, so you will find many churches here. An interesting fact that you must know is that it's free to visit the museums but not the churches - they usually charge between 4€ and 8€ for entry, depending on how expensive it is, of course. They will not charge you for entry at the Glendalough Monastic Site. Maybe one of the reasons that they don't do so is that many of them are so old that's it somewhat of a miracle that they are still standing - one of them doesn't even have a roof anymore!
The Saint Kevin and Saint Mary Churches are just some that you will find: they are so old that they date back to the 12th century, and are all made of stone and granite.
The tower
Undoubtedly, one of the most representative buildings is the round tower, which you sadly cannot enter, as the entrance doors were usually constructed much higher than ground level - in this case, some 3. 5 metres higher. This type of tower is important for understanding the medieval history of Ireland, and this 30 metre tall tower is considered to be one of the oldest, yet most beautiful, in the country.
(In this photo, you will be able to see part of the very old cemetery that I was talking about earlier, and the over 30 metre tall tower in the background. From this angle, you can see the entrance that sits 3 metres above the ground. )
Go ahead and get yourself on the path to Wicklow
If you want to constantly see some amazing landscapes and be in touch with Ireland's nature, you must walk along the Wicklow Way. I am sure that you have heard people talking about the Camino de Santiago that people walk along in Spain, well this is very, very similar, just much shorter. This is a 139 kilometre route that not only passes through Glendalough, but also many other parts of Wicklow; although bear in mind that it's not necessary to walk it in its entirety! You can see as much of it as you want, as there are different pathways designed for different needs. On the path, you will be able to find posts with drawings of walkers, and this means that that particular path forms part of the Wicklow Way. Doing this will be the best way of making new Irish or international friends. If you get tired, you will be able to find several hotels that you can stay in; although it's nature-based, you will find some small hotels along the way. As you already know, there is no age, financial or physical impediment that prevents you from experiencing this new adventure for yourself.
(This is a group of ladies who were ready to take on the "Wicklow Way". They gave me their permission to take the photo, but they told me to "do it quickly because we have to carry on going, we never stop! " If they have this kind of spirit at their age, there aren't any excuses for you not to do it too. )
Let's continue with the tour
We weren't looking forward to leaving, considering all the beautiful things that we had seen, but, at the same time, we were pretty excited to see everything that was still waiting for us, so, with this anticipation, we boarded the bus again. On this particular occasion, it was impossible to sleep with all this beauty before our very eyes - we simply couldn't tear our eyes away from the window. The guide told us a bit more about Wicklow National Park and that the most famous thing done there was the filming of the famous movie, Braveheart. In case you haven't seen this film, Mel Gibson had the lead role and it was released in 1995. The plot centres around a Scottish warrior from the thirteenth century, who promoted the first war to become independent from English, although, the film has been heavily criticised for having changed historical facts.
(One of the icons of Ireland, apart from the shamrock, are sheep. It's amazing to see all of them together in the fields... I couldn't resist taking a photo of them! )
You will also be able to see another location used for filming a movie, although, this time, it was for the 2007 film, P. S. I Love You, starring Hilary Swank and Gerard Butler. I think this is the romantic film that resonates most with tourists, and, in fact, many of them admit that they wanted to come to Ireland for the beautiful landscapes that they have seen when the actress loses herself whilst walking through the famous Wicklow National Park.
The Hollywood of Ireland
In case you thought that the only Hollywood that existed was in the United States, you are very, very mistaken... This Hollywood is a very small village in Ireland, one that's rather isolated and has only one school. But, mind you, it couldn't be called Hollywood without having its sign in the mountains. So, if you look out of the bus window and focus your eyes towards the sky, you are going to be able to see it, although you cannot see it as clearly with the camera as I would have liked.
Living the history and loving the culture of Kilkenny
After more or less an hour, we arrived in another of the most well-known cities in Ireland: Kilkenny. This city was once the medieval capital of Ireland and its heritage is very much visible through its streets, its historic buildings, and its famous castle. This city was christened by Saint Canice; in fact, you will have to get used to listening to the names of hundreds of saints, as Ireland is full of them. Something that I would have liked is to have stayed in Kilkenny for longer, but, as the tour only lasts one day and you lose a lot of time getting from one place to another, we were only there for just under two hours. We used part of this time to eat, and with what was left, we could just see a little bit of the city. Here, we would find the second-largest cathedral in Ireland, which dates back to the thirteenth century.
However, something that you absolutely have to visit is the amazing Kilkenny Castle. You can take a tour, which are held every hour and cost around 6€. However, it's not at all necessary to enter the cathedral grounds to see it: you can simply walk around it whilst also enjoying a fantastic view of the city. In our case, we came across a wedding photo shoot, as it is one of many people's favourite places to have one. This castle dates back to the twelfth century and was built by William Marshall; there was a period when it served as the Butler family home, made up of dukes and marquises. As I mentioned earlier, the gardens and parks that surround it are free to visit and are very relaxing when there.
(Kilkenny Castle - there's no fee applicable for seeing it from this angle. )
(The gardens at Kilkenny Castle - one of the most favoured spots for wedding photoshoots. )
(The park located in front of Kilkenny Castle - go ahead and take a walk around it! )
Do you like stories about witches? Well, Kilkenny was witness to many of the trials carried out against the witches in 1324 (and, in theory, there were the first to be imposed in the whole of the Europe). One of the well-known cases is that of Alice Kyeteler, who was accused of poisoning her four husbands in order to acquire their fortunes. Very clever idea, really. Before her trial, she left for England, but her housekeeper was burned on her behalf. But how was it the poor housekeeper's fault?
One of the good things about this city is that, although it's very small, it has lots of historic and cultural places for you to see and enjoy, and, what's more, you can see them all on foot. Kilkenny has a beautiful culture and a lot of entertainment that you can see in the pubs, and there are also lots of events that are organised annually: classical music events, art exhibitions, book stores, workshops, jazz and folklore sessions, amongst others.
When you arrive, they will give you a map with a welcome message and the places that are worth having a look around. I personally recommend that you walk along High Street ('the Medieval Mile') until you get to the Saint Canice Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace. If you can, come back via St. Kieran's Street, so you can admire the River Nore on the Lady Desart Bridge or John's Bridge.
A lovely return journey
We were all in love with the tour, but our legs were starting to feel a little bit tired. At roughly around 6pm, we began our return journey to Dublin and we arrived at 8pm. However, the tour did not end when we boarded the bus: the guide continued talking for another hour about stories, legends, and the history of Ireland, as well as giving us some background on the Celts. We loved listening to him, don't get me wrong, but our eyes were so tired that we couldn't keep them open any longer, with many falling asleep in the middle of his commentary. Finally, he put some Irish music on for the remainder of the journey; I identified with many of them because, given that I do Irish dancing, I usually dance to them all the time. We eventually arrived in Dublin and we said our goodbyes with lots of mixed feelings: we were very happy for having enjoyed the tour, but also sad that it was ending. It's for this reason, however, that I am thinking about returning to Ireland and doing more tours like this one to fall in love with nature every single day!
Recommendations and some facts
- It almost always rains in Ireland. In fact, you will see many t-shirts in the souvenir shops that say "seasons of the year", and, on them, you can see a sheep in spring, summer, autumn and winter. But, in all four of the seasons, the sheep is holding its umbrella because it is raining literally almost all the time. So, I recommend that you take an umbrella and rainproof clothing with you when you go on your tour.
- Don't forget to wear comfortable clothing as you are going to walk a lot.
- They don't give you lunch during the tour, so bring a light snack if you fancy.
- The bus is in excellent condition, with both heating and air conditioning. It also has WiFi, so you can constantly keep in touch with your family and show off to all of your friends how your trip is going through social media.
