Discovering Latin America: Santiago, Chile

Santiago, Chile:

Now, with a little experience of Chile, I am going to go on talking about the city and it's people.

It is clear that the Chileans are, let's say, the 'coldest' people within Latin America. They are a little tired of so many Spaniards, however, by the end I met people who acted well towards me, a foreigner.

Santiago is a city of contrasts. They say that the 'Plaza de Italia', in Baquedano, is like the centre from which everything differentiates. From 'Plaza de Italia' upwards (Providencia, Vitacura, Las Condes) are the rich, more wealthy areas, or 'well-off' let's say. Then from here downwards are the more marginalised areas. Anyway, I have been in areas further down from 'Plaza de Italia' and the truth is that a good four or five stops from the metro you cannot notice the difference.

(Plaza Italia)

What to see:

Baquedano is a wonderful area to go out to party. In this area, known as 'Bellavista' (beautiful view), there are various universities so you can enjoy this area just as much during the day as you can during the night. It is an area full of a big variety of bars, cheap beers and food that really makes you spend a very nice afternoon/evening at the 'party', the name given to the party: carrete (a word used in Latin America meaning to go out to party). Also, inside is the 'Patio Bellavista', a patio with with a large amount of more 'chic' bars and restaurants. I enjoyed myself a lot in 'Bellavista', just as much inside the patio as outside, it is a very nice area where you will find all types of people.

Another area well known for it's atmosphere during both the afternoon and the night is the 'Barrio Lastarria' area. It is a few stops after the Baquedano metro stop. It is an area with a very French atmosphere, with bars and restaurants known for their good presentation, however, of course they are a lot more expensive. Nonetheless, it is a wonderful area to walk through at night. If you do, be careful with your bags and valuables, in the blink of an eye you can be robbed without even noticing.

Within the 'Providencia' area, in particular 'Manuel Montt' is a street full of bars and restaurants that from Wednesday to Saturday are full of people and a great atmosphere. One of the headquarters of the 'Universidad Mayor' is there and during term time there is always a great student atmosphere. One of the best things about Santiago is the atmosphere that you can find on every stretch.

Things that you must visit are the 'Palacio de la Moneda', the president of the Republic of Chile's headquarters. On specific Sundays it is totally free to visit. They say that the interior that you can see is the site where Salvador Allende was shot during the coup d'état in which the palace was left half destroyed and subsequently it was reconstructed and restored. To tell the truth, it is a very beautiful place.

In the same area you will find the 'Plaza de Armas'. A few blocks before you will find the busiest streets of Santiago. Streets full of shops, people, foods... where you will find every type of product. If you walk towards the back you will arrive at 'Plaza de Armas', where you will see the Cathedral of Santiago, Chile. There the people gather for lots of different activities, from religious groups to street performers making sure people have fun as they pass by on the streets.

Nearby you will find the 'Mercado Central' (Central Market) and a well known bar, which is considered a tourist attraction: La Piojera.

Let's start with the Central Market: across the 'rio Mapocho' (Mapocho river), you will find an esplanade where an enormous market is held with all types of products: fruits, vegetables, meats and on the second floor are the restaurants with all the typical Chilean foods, where I would recommend you go to try some. In front of this market, is the Central Market, where people usually go to eat the highest quality fish. I have not tried it but I have heard from a lot of people that they have enjoyed good food there.

For an enjoyable evening, the best thing to do is to go to 'La Piojera'. As I said, it is already known as a tourist attraction, since it takes a tourist to know it. It is a bar, old and a little rundown but it is where they make one of the most delicious, traditional drinks of Chile: 'el terremoto'. This bar is always open and it also serves food. It is a place where you really forget the time and have a lot of fun. Although, be careful when you leave if it is already dark, it is an area that is a little dangerous to go alone and drunk.

Another 'must' is 'los cerros' (the hills): Cerro de Santa Lucía and el Cerro San Cristóbal.

Cerro de Santa Lucía:

In the centre of the city, at the metro stop with the same name 'Santa Lucía', you will find one of the hills of Santiago. From here you can see the whole city, including the large layer of pollution that covers the city, particularly in the summer when there is very little rain and the pollution of the capital creates a cloud that almost stops you from being able to see the city.

The 'cerro' has three parts during the ascent. Only a little way up you will find a large fountain with banks to enjoy the first area. On the various occasions that I visited, I often saw people rehearsing dances and dancing, which you can enjoy for free.

As you continue going up, another big esplanade appears before you and the views become amazing. Here you will find a place where you can have a typical drink of Chile, mote with huesillos (summer-time non-alcoholic drink made from wheat and peaches) or a hot dog.

The stairs become larger from here and on another, higher level you can see a marvellous view of the whole city. In this space, which is a little small, there is always a lot of tourists, which will cause you to pass before going up but the views are very worthwhile.

Cerro San Cristóbal:

This hill is at the 'Barequeno' metro stop. Passing through the Bellavista area, that I spoke of earlier, at the end you will find the hill and you will see it's entrance as if it were a park full of places to buy souvenirs. To go up, you can walk or you can go in a cable car which costs (if I remember correctly) 1400 Chilean Pesos during the week and 2000 Chilean pesos during the weekend. Normally there are a lot of people at the weekend, but the long queues tend to go down quite quickly.

Once in the cable car the views become so wonderful but the layer of pollution over the city is a shame.

Once you arrive at the top there are some stairs to go further up still, until you arrive at an enormous statue with some stairs where most people sit to rest after the long walk.

This hill is very busy because you can walk down or bike down. On Saturdays and Sundays people usually go to walk and to exercise.

Very close to here you will find 'La Chascona', one of the many houses of the poet 'Pablo Neruda'. Nowadays is used as a museum so you have to pay to enter but I did not go inside. They say that he lived here with his wife Matilde Urrutia until he died. Today, you can find all of the work of the poet here.

Another place you must visit it the 'Costanera Center'. It is one of the biggest skyscrapers of Latin America. It is a shopping centre, where on the highest floors there are a load of offices that you cannot access unless you work there. A month after I left Chile, they opened the last flat to see the views from there, imagine how amazing that would be!

The Costanera is a nice place to spend the day, although at the weekends it becomes heaving with people. There are all sorts of clothes brands (the only Spanish ones are Zara, H&M, Mango and yes, they are dearer), cinemas, supermarkets...

The truth is that Santiago, Chile is a city that has all types of activities to do. The city is always full of people, things to do and it is really great. Despite what they say, I have never had or seen problems or any altercations with robbing, but it is certain that you should never go out alone at night, always go accompanied by someone.

The people:

The Chileans are a little cold compared to what you would expect in Latin America and a little negligent but despite this the Chileans that I met were always very kind towards me.

Climate/food/drinks:

The climate is good, the winter that I was there it was never cold.

The food is quite copious and greasy. I didn't really try much other than the ceviche (which is actually a Peruvian dish), I didn't get round to trying the 'pastel de choclo' (dish based on sweetcorn or choclo) and I can only say that the Chilean meat at all the roasts I was invited to, was very good.

In terms of the drink, there is everything that you could want. The Chileans like to drink a lot and the beer is very good. Also, the mote con huesillos which is a drink that is like tea but with peach and huesillos, which are like grains of corn in the bottom of the glass. Also, there is the 'terremotos' (a type of sweet fermented wine) which are very tasty but don't be deceived, they can be strong. The second is called 'réplica'. I recommend that you try it. And, of course, the 'pisco sour' (pisco, which is its base liquor, and the cocktail term sour, in reference to sour citrus juice and sweetener component).