The beginning of my Erasmus experience with Krems an der Donau

Introduction

I moved to Krems an der Donau, two months ago to begin the Eramus+ joint Masters Degree program in Media Arts and Cultures. The academic and practical modules offered in this two year program are definitely a cultural practitioner’s treat, at least in my case. This course is relatively new and upcoming and has only been introduced widely in some parts of the world. For someone like me, who is coming from Karachi, Pakistan, it is also light years ahead – challenging and stimulating in ways that makes me rethink everything I thought I knew about art and new media practice in this constantly evolving technological sphere that is slowly but surely looming over and redefining what art is, what art can be, and where it is going in the future that is to come.

Like most of the Erasmus courses offered in Europe, my inclination towards this program was also the fact that I would have the opportunity to spend each semester in a different location. Starting off in Krems an der Donau (Austria), where I am at right now for my first semester, I will be moving to Aalborg (Denmark) for my second semester, choosing between Łódź (Poland) and Hong Kong (China) for my third semester and finally for my thesis, having the option to choose from three of the four locations.

I had never travelled to Europe before this and covering these territories meant that I am suddenly in the heart of Europe with access to places that I had only read about or heard from my family and friends who had a chance to visit and live vicariously through their adventures and experiences. Now, this experience is mine to behold and as much as it overwhelms me, I already know that the two years ahead of me, will indeed be the best years of my life.

Life in Krems an der Donau

The Austrian experience for me starts with this ancient wine town, Krems an der Donau. It sounds a bit obscure, right? Honestly I had only heard about Salzburg (thanks to Sound of Music) and Vienna because of the architectural splendor that it is – but other than that my knowledge of Austria was fairly limited. Coming from a densely overpopulated city of over 14 million people, moving to a town with less than 25 thousand inhabitants is bizarre in ways I can’t even begin to explain. My first impression was, ‘Where are all the people’? So yes, Krems has that vibe but if you are open to the idea of living away from the big city life with fewer distractions - this is more than ideal.

Krems has two major universities - IMC University of Applied Sciences and Danube University. They are located close to each other and a short walk will take you right to the Danube River, Europe’s second longest river which flows across ten countries. A multitude of vineyards have flourished in this picturesque region for centuries and is still all existing in Krems, the eastern gateway to the Wachau. I personally find it very inspiring to be in such natural surroundings. There are beautiful views all around Danube University and on a warm sunny day, you can go for a nice hike. The main centre of Krems is also a short walk from the university. Most of the students live there in shared flats.

Accommodation in Krems

Here are some tips from my personal experience when looking for accommodation in Krems:

They are many online facebook groups that I personally found very helpful. You can write a post about exactly what you are looking for and you will be able to find many useful leads. Try to contact at least four to five people and then choose what works best for you. In most cases you will be required to pay a security deposit between 500-700 Euros before a housing contract is issued to you. This contract is a prerequisite for all international students to be able to get a visa to study in Austria. The monthly rent varies between 320-370 Euros for a private room with a shared kitchen, WC, bathroom, living room with all costs (heating/electricity/WLAN internet) covered.

You can also choose to live in Vienna if you prefer, a lot of students commute back and forth. I personally feel that living in Krems doesn’t necessarily make it hard to travel to other cities. It is relatively easy to plan trips as trains and buses run very frequently. Vienna is only a little over an hour away so you can easily go for a day trip. It actually works better because finding accommodation can be expensive for bigger cities and in this way you can save money.

Transport in Krems

Krems is generally very walkable. The town is pretty small and getting to and from places if you are living near the centre where most of the activity is, can easily be managed on foot. From morning to evening, there are four bus lines running every 15-30 minutes with some free buses for university students. The town is also very bicycle friendly and most students commute their way on bikes.

It gets a little tricky at night though if you live far away and don’t own a bike. I don’t live very close to the main centre so I usually share a taxi with my housemates but it can be fairly expensive if you are travelling alone. There are no cheaper cab services like Uber available so it is advisable to plan in advance or stay at a friend’s house if you are going to have a late night.

Transport within Austria

Travelling in Austria is usually with Öbb and Westbahn, both of them are railway operators with extensive rail networks. If you are under 26, you can apply for an Öbb Vorteilscard Jugend which costs 19 Euros and is valid for a year. This card is a must have for students as it gives you 50% off on the original ticket price. There are some other options available that are a little more pricy. You can check out offers on their web site. Alternatively, Westbahn is a relatively new rail service which I personally prefer as they have cheaper rates if you book in advance.

Flixbus is also a great option for students and tourists to travel around Austria’s neighbouring countries. It is cheap and has wifi on board and you can map your way to 20 different countries. As a student, you can even avail discounts so it is definitely worth checking out.

Language

The course that I am enrolled in is taught in English so while I am in university, I don’t necessarily feel any language constraints but Austria in general is a German speaking country.

If you have the time and resources to enroll in German classes online or from your home country before you arrive, it will come in very handy during your time here. Like myself, if you find yourself in a small town like Krems, which has considerably less multicultural facets of interaction to offer than bigger cities in Austria, knowing the language can help you to navigate your way around and socially interact with people in a much more engaging way.

Places to visit in and around Krems an der Donau

Göttweig Abbey

I have to say that this is probably one of the most special places that I have seen in my life. It also so happens that one of the lectures on sound art theories pertaining to my Masters course was hosted at this beautiful baroque Benedictine monastery that was founded in 1083. A UNESCO World Heritage Landscape since 2001, this sacred center is currently run by a community of forty five monks. The abbey has a precious library of 250, 000 books and manuscripts over a diverse range of topics – architecture, theology, philosophy and a unique collection of graphic prints, religious engravings, musical manuscripts, antiquities, natural history and more – all of which miraculously endured the dangers and aftermath of World World II. My department is currently working towards digitizing their archives, so I had the pleasure of accessing parts of the abbey which are not open for public viewing, but even for tourists and art enthusiasts, this place is an absolute treat featuring the monumental imperial staircase with the ceiling fresco by Paul Troger from 1739, curated art collections, annual exhibitions and more.

Jazzkeller Krems

Discovering this in the centre of Krems was a surprise! Known only to a select group of locals who are familiar with this small town, Jazzkeller is a platform for youth subcultures to host DIY music concerts and events that are shared either by word of mouth or on online platforms with little or no mainstream advertising. Here, you will meet offbeat punk and rock characters and the university crowd of music enthusiasts. This small community of people with shared interests get together on occasion to listen to live performances by musicians and bands who actively try to create memorable experiences for the audience in attendance and enliven the culture of this small town.

Heurigers in Krems

The culture of ‘Heurigers’ is widespred in Austria in general and Krems is no exception. Open only in specific growing seasons around the year, there are a variety to choose from and the rustic experience is a special one – you get the best wine straight from the vineyard near where it is located and the food is typical of Austrian cuisine, generally homemade products with an assortment of meats, cheese, desserts and local music to complement the authentic experience.

There is still so much to explore and I am incredibly excited to let this journey unfold slowly. Living in Europe makes me feel alive in ways I can’t even explain and I hope my experiences can be of value to students and travelers around the globe.