Florentine Experience #6 (Day 2)

I'll be picking off from where I left off in the 'Florentine Experience #5 (Day1). I awoke in the late morning semi-covered with mosquito bites. If you are allergic or are really distressed with mosquito bites make sure to bring something to repel them as this hostel’s relative remoteness makes it a great place for mosquitos to thrive. I packed my small carry bag and make my way to the most recommended place by for picturesque views: Piazzale Michelangelo.

It is worth noting that I have only spent a couple of nights in Florence. I can not stress that you should definitely spend a decent amount of time here. At Least a week minimum to get a proper feel of the place. This is especially true with the food. Make sure to have enough food in you to have the proper Italian experiences. I only ended up having to stay for such a short time due to the fact that I wanted to see as much of Italy before I left. It's a method of exploration and having a dabble of the different places there are to visit. This way, when I return I know exactly where I want to go and spend copious amounts of time eating myself to an early grave. So plan it out accordingly.

Piazzale Michelangelo

While my hostel, Camping Michelangelo, is relatively remote, it is a stone throws away from the Plaza with the spectacular view. I recall walking the arduous uphill trek from my tent-cabin to the entrance. From there, I walked for about five minutes till I reached the square.

The square is relatively large with half of it bordering a cliff-fall. In the centre of it all stands a large and proud replica of the Michelangelo atop a large sculpted pedestal. The statue starred off at the direction of Florence. There are steps leading up to this pedestal which was covered with sun-soaking tourists. I was fortunate to have such a beautiful day without a large cloud in sight. I snapped a few photos of the majestic Michelangelo then made my way to where a few small crowds had formed.

(Source:https://www.palazzo-ruspoli-florence.com/weekend-bed-and-breakfast-florence/piazzale-michelangelo/)

From this vantage point, I was afforded a spectacular view of the whole city. At the heart of it I spotted the massive Santa Maria cathedral I had seen the other day. The view was absolutely stunning against the blue background. I did my best to take as many photos in as different angles as this view concluded to be one of the best on my Italian experience (of the four cities I visited).

Around the edge of the plaza there were plenty of different temporary shops selling trinkets, snacks and refreshments of all kinds. They’re usually stationed there during tourist season if you’re rushed to buy a souvenir. I had gotten there right before noon and it was moderately busy. I recommend you come in earlier than noon as it would be swamped by other tourists. However, if it is, it really isn’t as big of an issue as a museum being busy. The picture taking session usually takes a few to several minutes and you would be able to secure a spot soon.

On the path to the Florentine inner city

Further down the hill there is a spectacular garden of roses which is also a tourist attraction. It’s a small Botanical garden although predominantly based on roses. It’s a great place to get a bit of fresh air. Around the time I went, there had not been much activity going on. This allowed for a more serene enjoyment of the trip

After spending roughly thirty minutes here, I continued my downhill way to the river just south of the inner city. Along the way you should spot some ruins and ancient gates standing tall. The area offers many narrow streets to explore where can literally feel the history seeping through the stone cobbled floor and the narrow Florentine roads. I decided to take advantage of the history of the place and walked around. This area also sports many small cafes and restaurants.
I decided to sit in a small café close to the medieval Florentine walls. It was a very serene part of the area. I chose the Italian signature black coffee and watched the world go by. It was very fortunate I decided to take this caffeine filled course of action as the next sight to see was something that would melt the enthusiasm and energy out of most people.

The wait

After paying for my coffee I made my way over to one of the bridges and crossed into the inner city. I found myself close to the Uffizi gallery and made my way to the back of the line. I was keen to see some spectacular works of art. The line turned a corner, however, I didn’t imagine it would take as long as it did to get inside. I stood waiting while switching between my book or listening to music. The area was engulfed with tourists. Many sitting down on the nearby steps and benches.

There were a few buskers entertaining the crowds of tourists. One doing magic card tricks with another juggling different items. Although the overwhelming presence here were the trinket sellers. From toys for kids to selfie sticks. These groups are very persistent. Expect to see them almost everywhere within the inner city. The second largest tourist hunting groups are the tour guides. They will come around bellowing the possibility of skipping the long and tedious line, for a price.

The line inched forward every half hour. It took three whole hours before I reached the ticket seller. I was eager to get this touring happen. I felt like a starving man finally being given food. I had never had to wait so long for something (excluding airports) in a line. If you are keen not to wait as long you could either be more prudent and wait in line much earlier or simply book the line-pass online. Its pricier buying it off the tour guides.

Uffizi Gallery

Regardless, the Uffizi gallery is without a doubt worth of having all its forty five museum halls explored. If you ever find yourself in Florence, it would be an honest shame if you didn’t take advantage of checking out some of the many art museums and galleries located throughout the inner city and beyond. Many of them have great historical pieces that were painted or sculpted by artists who have contributed immensely to their craft around Europe. The Uffizi gallery is one of the most renowned of these art galleries.

In this piece I’ll be highlighting some of their greatest and most famous works of art, including my favourite ones. However, I can not stress enough that you should not miss the opportunity to check out all the available art not only for their great history and contributions to culture but also their beauty and majesty.

(Source: http://sensotravel.com/package/uffizi-gallery-italian-masterpieces/)

I was lucky enough to visit Florence thanks to my erasmus exchange opportunity for that semester. I recall having to wait in line for a whopping three hours. If I had known it would take this long I would have booked the line-cutting tickets. However, I never realised the length it would take as anything more than an hour in line seemed unreasonable.

Regardless, myself and several dozen individuals waited under the shaded cover of the museum upheld by large stone pillars. Three mind-boggling hours later, I am finally inside and paying for my ticket it. When I made my way inside I noticed a tour guide giving the history of the place in very specific detail. I was very keen to find out how this much renowned museum came to be.

This had been during the rule of the Medici family. Cosimo the Great decided to create the Uffizi (which translates to offices) as a place where the administration and judiciary of Florence could carry out their roles.Many buildings including a Roman style church had to be demolished and gutted to expand the museum.

In 1581, the beginnings of what were to be the museum had come to life with Francesco of the Medici family. He set up several statues and precious art pieces on the top floor of the east wing of the Uffizi as a gallery allowed only with the Medici’s consent. Ever since then the Medici family has been adding, generation to generation different precious objects and statues. More art pieces and majestic designs to create what we see today. Anna Maria Medici, the last surviving Medici family member of that dynasty decided to allow some viewing access of the Uffizi gallery to the public.

However, it became fully open to the public by 1789 with the decision of Peter Leopold, a significant member of the Austrian house in Lorraine. This family oversaw much of Tuscany at the time. They also altered the gallery and made alterations as the enlightenment created a new system of dividing collections depending on their type. Some pieces had been transferred to other museums for different reasons. However, the Uffizi gallery is still great in all its majesty and should be the focus of your art tourism.

Upon entering the Uffizi gallery, you will need to make your way up the stairs till you finally reach the long hallways of sculptures. I will get into detail about these soon as there are many great pieces. However, lets firstly focus on my favourite and top picks of the gallery.

The Birth of Venus

We’ll start off with one of the most renowned pieces and the one that awed me the most, The Birth of Venus. Created by Sandro Botticelli, this piece stands as one of the most well known and popular in the art world. The scene is divided between the four elements. From the left side you have the angel figure blowing the cold ‘wind’ to Venus while she stands on a giant shell above ‘water’. The wind is blowing her to the warm embrace of the ‘earth’. Throughout the whole scenario, Venus’ ‘fiery' red hair flows in the picture.

The picture is open to other interpretations, but the work is certainly a unique piece. It was also larger than I expected. Expect to fight through a small crowd to get a good look at this piece. Luckily the crowds aren’t as large as the Mona Lisa as the Uffizi is more restrictive of the amount of visitors they allow to flow in.

The Coronation of the Virgin

The Coronation of the Virgin is another great piece to keep an eye out. What makes this one particularly special in my eyes is the amount of different saints taking part in the coronation. They are painted quite distinctively so it is pretty easy to identify each saint. The amount of detail I witnessed was astounding. Fra Angelico, a Rennaisance artist of the earlier period, created this piece in the fifteenth century. The tourist guide explained that coronation paintings were particularly popular during this time. I can see why this one triumphed over many in popularity.

Laocoön and his Sons

The next one is my favourite sculpture of the many on display. It was created by Baccio Bandinelli, the Laocoön and his Sons painting shows a scene of monstrous snakes. I recalled first reading about this story while studying a years long course of ancient Greek in high-school. I hadn’t been expecting to see it here until I casually stumbled upon it in one of the Uffizi hallways.

The scene is unimaginably realistic. From the hair to the muscles portrayed by the characters.It is almost hard to imagine how an artist could shape stone to make something as elegant and intrinsic as this piece. I recall reading that this piece is a copy commissioned by a Pope as the original was a bronze statue found in a very sad state. It is definitely my favourite sculpture piece of the group.

I was very happy to be able to find this piece. I had read extensively about the exact scene in the Iliad while I was taking Latin and ancient greek classes back in highschool. It felt as though I was seeing an old fiend. I imagined the serpent's to be much larger although I was still in awe of the majesty of the image. It's worth noting that there is a certain feeling you get when you finally come face to face with art pieces or sculptures that you’ve heard so much about growing up. It also gives off a sense of achievement. As though you’ve finally completed that goal you were keen to check out unintentionally. One off the list. This is a constant experience I had travelling through Italy from city to city and from art piece to art piece. I certainly would advise to keep an adventurous spirit and seek out all the great and historical pieces and places while you're here.

(Source: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groupe_du_Laocoon)

La Primavera is another great piece attributed to Botticelli. According to the guide, this piece is highly contested in its year of creation (around the fifteenth century; the exact date is the issue). It is also known for its open interpretations. You see Venus standing in all her glory at the centre of it all as three Nymphs dance to a song. Hermes is trying to cast away clouds. Another noticeable bit is the different flowers types around. as spring is in bloom. It's a beautiful piece to witness and one that I have seen in quite a few textbooks.

Judith and Holofernes

One last favourite would be Judith and Holofernes. A little background on the artist of this piece. Artemisia Gentileschi is praised to be one of the best women painters of the 17th century. She is currently seen as creating work that is one of the most progressive of her time. Although, her story is unfortunate. She accused a landscape artist of rape, however, this case ended against Artemisia due to prejudice against women. Which adds to the whole idea that she being able to accomplish so much in an art world dominated by men is a feat in itself.

Exhausted, I decided to enjoy the outdoor roof area of the gallery. This beautifully designed spot allows you to bask in the sun while enjoying the view down below. The nearby tower is well placed for a good photo. Many families were snapping group photos with such a great background. They also provide a cafeteria with lots of snacks and paninis to fuel you up. They also serve coffee, hot chocolate and other hot drinks

Mercato centrale Firenze

After enjoying the sun on the roof, I decided to conclude the event and head back down. I decided on that point that I wanted to check out the largest market in the inner city: Mercato centrale Firenze. The market is walking distance from the Uffizi gallery. I highly recommend you march on there rather than taking a cab as there is quite a few things to see along the way. Feel free to grab a delicious gelato from one of the many gelato shops located in the inner city to beat the heat. You’ll find many along the way to the market.

The market itself is massive. You can find nearly anything you want and more. Food-wise they provided all sorts of meals and dishes. They also offered cooking ingredients such as many different fish, raw meats, vegetables and spices. There are also many pastry vendors with chocolate soaked pastries and butter soaked beauties. It was all mouth-watering. They also offer many different types of authentic pizzas, salads and different dried meats to pick from. Their cheese selection is also sublime. Make sure you try many of the different tastings on offer.  The cheeses were one of my favourite products in the market and I recommend you check out I formaggi E la Mozzarella. Many of these cheeses I had tried before were augmented in taste when made locally in the Tuscan region. It is as if anything these men and women that sold were almost automatically better than many of the things you tried at home. I basically had two meals worth of small foods here and there. I also recommend la Pasta Fresca as another great area to eat at. The pasta here is absolutely divine. I had a cheese drowned tortellini dish. I highly recommend eating here for the high quality provided. I downed it all with a healthy helping of tiramisu.

(Source: http://www.trendengel.com/2016/06/22/mercato-centrale-firenze-the-food-lovers-paradise/)

They provide free wifi if you need the internet to translate anything. Although the stalls I had seen, which is most of them, have english translated menus for visitors to make good use of. You could also grab a high quality Tuscan wine or local craft beer. The atmosphere is very lively within the high ceiling glass building. There are two levels in the venue. On the bottom floor you’ll find the majority of the eateries. There is also an atm for you to draw money if you find yourself short of euros or decide to spend more than originally planned. The top floor has quite a few seating areas to eat. I recommend you find a table on the second floor as it affords a great view of the downstairs area, It adds quite a bit to your meal experience.

I decided to spend the rest of the day wandering around the city. I got to see many beautiful sights. Later in the evning ate at a random restaurant which name I can not recall.I was pleasantly reminded that many of the restaurants around Florence use fresh ingredients from the countryside. The difference in flavour is quite notable from the 'frozen overnight' varieties. Also, if you’re going to eat at a restaurant, then I would suggest you pick one where you can eat Al fresco (with an outside dining area). It is also a good Italian experience to enjoy your meal to the sight of the world moving past.

Piazza Santo Spirito

I then decided to go check out the Piazza Santo Spirito. This plaza offers a bustling street market to discover many trinkets and pieces of value and art. I came around here to pick up some souvenirs for home. There is a wide selection of different goods to look at. Even if you aren’t keen to shop, nevertheless, I would suggest you take a look around simply to enjoy the atmosphere. If you want to take a break from the pandemonium of haggling there are quite a few bars and restaurants around. They also have a church located nearby which you could take a look and avoid the noise. I ended up going to the bar to try a glass of Tuscan wine instead.

I also could not resist grabbing some local gelati. One thing that I reckon I ate more than anything while in Italy was Gelati. The best part about it is not that it's always a great experience when I eat it but it also varies from place to place. It's similar to how in France you have a different selection of baguettes that you could try from different places. Each at a certain amount of ingredients with different balances. This makes each region have it's own unique taste to its food not just gelati. So, I highly recommend that if you find yourself in one of the many beautiful cities of Italy then make sure to gorge yourself on all the different foods possible. Don’t feel shy to try the same things again. Although, I recommend you do vary in your holiday diet. This excludes gelati. Wherever you go make sure to eat as much gelati as possible to beat the heat and to please the soul. Don’t worry about gaining calories as you will often be walking around cities looking at museums and monuments all day which burns a surprising amount of calories as they do tend to add up.

I then left back to my hostel at the end of the day. I ordered a nice pasta dinner (for a satisfying fourth meal) from the hostel's restaurant, packed up and went to bed. Early the next morning I woke up and made my way to the train station. I had a couple of mini pizzas from a bakery along the way and enjoyed one last scenic route on the way to Florence. Even in the morning the heat was unrelenting.

I found Florence as one of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited in southern Europe. I can’t wait to come back and check out many other art galleries I missed out on. I found Florence to be overall not too hard on the budget. I would avoid paid tours and do your own personal research on the place. Look out for all the good budget eateries and great sights to see.

Continuing, I made it to the train station. As always, most train stations are busy by noon. I found the right line and made my way to the train. My next stop is the most exciting one for me. In roughly four hours of train travel I will finally reach the famed and historic city of Rome.

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