Curious in Copenhagen #11

Getting there

This picks up from where I left off in my 'Dining in Serbia #10' experience. As I mentioned before I had taken the train to get from the central south eastern Europe towards Denmark. The trip itself took almost thirty hours,three train rides and a ferry. You may ask as to why I didn't just take a flight. The answer is twofold. Firstly, the experience of passing by different European countrysides. Secondly, the incredible pricing,

(Source: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/denmark/copenhagen)

Travelling around Europe is not the cheapest experience. This is especially true during the two peak months of July and August. I had been travelling during August at the time. Even though it was the last week and a half of the month the plane ticket prices were insane. This is true even though I was planning a few months before the adventure.

To battle the prices and maintain my budget trip as a ‘budget’ trip I looked towards trains. Trains in Europe are sometimes more expensive than flights. This is especially true for long distance train rides. However, there is a solution to this. Many train companies have agreed together to create a travel pass which works in their wild network of trains. This ended up creating the much famed ‘Interrail’ pass for residents from Europe, the Russian Federation, Turkey, Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia and the Eurorail for everybody else.

The Interrail and Eurorail are pretty much identical in all aspects except for the pricing. Although, the pricing is not significantly different. The Interrail is a cheaper buy than its counterpart. However, the amount you’ll be saving will more than make up for the extra amount.

I had the Interrail global pass for seven days. This basically means that within the month of August I was allowed to travel an unlimited amount of times around Europe (with the train companies involved such as SNC, Deutchban etc) for seven days. If you're looking to travel within one part of Europe (such as Western, Southern etc) then I would look towards regional passes. You could choose which days during the month to travel on. Including insurance and shipping costs it had cost me 274 euros for the pass. However, by the end of the trip I had calculated that without this pass it would have cost me just about 600-700 euros if I had not used the pass on transportation. I highly recommend you look into it.

Regardless, this was one of the two longest train trips during my Eurotrip. I had taken a long trip from Serbia to Germany, then another from Germany to Copenhagen. The initial trip was an overnight one. Make sure to grab lots of snacks and water if you’re doing a long range trip. A pillow or one of those travel pillows that wrap around your neck is also highly recommended.

The trip from Germany to Denmark was more exciting. At one point our train carriage had been placed into a large transport ferry. I had not expected this to happen. I was pleasantly surprised when they asked us to leave the hull and head to the top deck. The view from up there was spectacular. It had been a sunny August day and the northern waters gleamed beautifully.

Exchanging money

I finally arrived to Copenhagen after the short ferry and a bit more travelling around. You will be dropped off at Copenhagen Central Station which is located comfortable within the city. It's close to some attractions which we will visit in detail later on in this paper. It is worth noting that Copenhagen uses the Danish krone. At the time one euro was roughly 7.3 Danish Krone. I usually recommend that you do not convert your funds in train stations (or airports) as the conversion rates and commissions make it an unpalatable option. Rather, I recommend you convert a small amount to get you through the first day or at least gets you a meal and transportation till you make your way to a currency exchanger found somewhere outside. Preferably not within the inner city.

Danhostel Copenhagen Bellahøj

I was staying at the Danhostel Copenhagen Bellahøj. This hostel had been the cheapest option available at the time although it is located right outside the city. However, as Copenhagen is not a massive city then it makes it easier to get to and fro without wasting too much time. Just a heads up, if you’re spending quite some time around Copenhagen then I definitely recommend looking into bus passes such as the Copenhagen bus pass. The reason for this comes down to pricing. Denmark has a very high HDI rating and is a pretty pricey place to live in.

For example, the single ticket I kept buying for the bus amounted to almost three euros. I Had never paid so much to get to and fro. Keep in mind though that this is due to the zone location of the hostel I was staying at. You could always look towards renting a bike. Copenhagen could easily be described as a bike city. Finding a place to rent a bike is quite easy.

(Source:http://www.worldbesthostels.com/best-hostels/hostel/43895-danhostel-copenhagen-bellahøj.html)

Anyway, the Danhostel is a decent place to stay at. It is located a seven minute walk away from the bus stop that requires only one bus to get to the inner city. The lobby in the area is quite large with a massive lounge area to relax in. There is also a room with a television and library. This seemed to be the most popular room in the hostel as most residents who stayed in the lobby would go there. The bedroom I was staying at was well spaced out with large beds. There were also storage areas located right under the bed within my room. The sockets located around are also pretty charming. The sockets are designed with the three holes in the shape of a smiling face. I couldn’t help chuckling. Perhaps they were enforcing the idea that Denmark was voted one of the Happiest countries in the world for some time.

The shower rooms are also pretty clean. I believe this is one of the most important things to look out for in a hostel. Although, I reckon that most hostels in Copenhagen are very clean. I wouldn’t be surprised as the pricings for them are quite high. Luckily, the standards of the place also goes up with the price.

The receptionists are very polite and very knowledgeable of what to see around Copenhagen. If you’re unsure of what to check out then I would recommend you ask them. I recall how I wanted to confirm the reputation of the ‘Statue of the Little Mermaid’. I’ve heard from quite a few friends that it was overrated and not worth the long trek to get to it. This was confirmed by the receptionist I was talking to. The little statue was a bit of an overrated piece that was slapped onto half of Copenhagen’s postcards.

As I made my way to Copenhagen the next day I quickly realised that it was a special time. At almost every corner you could find a Pride flag or something related to Pride support. I looked up that a Pride festival was going on at the time. If you look up on google maps you could even see Pride coloured roads and streets that showcased where the Parade would take place. That was one of the coolest features I had seen on Google maps. Regardless, the event was still being set up as it was only the morning. I was meeting my mate the next day so I limited the amount of places I could visit on that day. I will talk about the highlights of the trip. The bus dropped me off at the train station. From there you could easily spot one of the first large attractions:Tivoli Gardens.

Tivoli gardens

The Tivoli Gardens area is known as the second oldest amusement park still in use. It's been around since the mid 18th century. If you would like to learn more about its impressive titles I would grab one of their brochures. I also learned, interestingly enough, that the reason behind this park is so as to distract the citizens of Copenhagen from politics. Something very similar to the Colosseum.

There are many different rides to enjoy. One of the most interesting ones is their Rutschebanen. This amusement ride is a large wooden roller coaster. I didn’t exactly feel very confident going on it as I was more assured with steel beams and supports rather than wooden planks and such. Although the safety standards on these rides were every high. They also had bumper rides, boat rides, a sky drop tower and much more.

The Tivoli gardens are also known for their, to no surprise, gardens. There were quite a few people relaxing and lazing about to the beautiful blue sky day. Its a great way to wind down after all the adrenaline pumping rides. The gardens also have live theatre performances going on. You would have dances from ballet to modern dance. During the time I was there a ballet performance had been going on. It was very enjoyable to watch. I would keep an eye on the schedules provided at the entrance if you’re keen to check this place out.

For those interested in staying in this historical site then you can stay at their hotel. The location is pretty central with the inner city to your east and the trainstation only a few minute walk away. If you’re staying here during the summer then you should not miss the Fredagsrock. This is a series of music performances where you get big bands from the Beach boys, Kanye West, 5 seconds to summer and many more. The ticket vendor pretty much sold me on the idea. Unfortunately, there were no performances during the days I was visiting.

The inner city

The heart of Copenhagen is known for its many great shops, restaurants and even street markets. I decided to beeline it there by checking out anything I could find on the way. The first thing I spotted was the Copenhagen City Hall. The city hall is located right next to the stage where the Pride concert will be going off and also near the entrance to the markets. This building is very beautiful and worthy of a few photo snaps. I wasn’t able to enter at the time as it was closed. There had been a bit of construction going on in the area.

Market streets

As you walk past you will spot a three level Burger King that seems to be quite flooded even during the morning. At this point you will realise that you’re at the very edge of the vibrant inner city. The road you would need is the Strøget street. This street is known as being one of the longest pedestrian only shopping streets. It is located comfortably within the old city.

This pedestrian only street is a great place to discover a lot of what Copenhagen has to offer. Its an area equally touristic as it is widely visited by locals. You could easily see how fashionable this street is. Although, it is also divided into different sections for you to enjoy. For example, from the western entrance you will be flanked by different bars that sell many draft beers. Denmark is known for having a few internationally renowned beers and these bars are great for exploring with their many options. If you’re looking to shop for clothes then you can find chains such as New Yorkers, H&M, Prada, Victoria’s secret and many more. There is even a very well designed Lego shop. I highly recommend you check it out while you’re here.

Gammeltorv square

Within the inner city you will also find the Gammeltorv square. This open square was bustling with activity during my visit. The surrounding area within the square is beautifully designed. You can find a few market stalls selling coffees and many different danish sweets and pastries. I found out earlier in the day through breakfast, which I had in a bakery, that cinnamon seems to be a very common ingredient in many Danish pastries. Cream also makes an appearance in many Danish baked goods. Both are great options.

(Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Caritas_Fountain_Copenhagen.jpg)

The square has been around since the 12th century. Although the area itself had been rebuilt several centuries later as there had been a fire that damaged a lot of the area. This place is great for having a moment of relaxation in one of the many cafes and restaurants located here. You should also check out the Caritas Well located within the square. It’s an elegantly crafted piece.

I highly recommend that you wear shoes with thick soles or atleast are overall pretty comfortable. European cities are known for many cobblestone walking areas. This would cause quite a bit of discomfort as you will probably need to do a lot of walking through the zigzagging inner cities of Europe.

Nearby you’ll have the Købmagergade (street). This is another shopping street which you could find many different types of clothing stores and restaurants. Although, my main concern was going south and checking out the next monument. Christiansborg Palace

Christiansborg Palace

This palace is located just across a bridge in the southern part of central Copenhagen. This sight is not only aesthetically pleasing for any viewer but also home to the Danish Parliament, Prime minister, and Supreme Court. I read that certain rooms were still in use by the monarchy. While the parliament is off limits while I was visiting I was still able to learn quite a lot due to the plaques located around the area. Apparently, this castle is the third one with the same name located in the same area. It was quite obvious that the area was of great importance due to the army vehicles and soldiers patrolling the area.

Kastelet

Nearby you could find the Kastelet attraction. I hadn’t really planned to check this one out until I saw it on google maps. It was shaped like a jumbo-sized pentagon. The place was much more elegant than I expected for a fortress. The area was surprisingly green with many trees and bushes located around. The main section is at the centre of the pentagram where the heart of the old fortress had been located. You’ll also be able to find a church and a windmill within its limits. The fortress is separated from the city by a river of water encompassing the borders of the Kastelet.

Paludan Bog & Café

After walking around this gorgeous area I then decided to grab some local lunch. I looked up on the internet and managed to find the right place:Paludan Bog & Café. This place is located further up north west in the city. It is actually found on the eastern street of the Copenhagen University. To get there from the busy market streets you will have to pass by Jorcks Passage. You can find some nice shops within Jorcks Passage.

While it was designed quite well I didn’t want to waste any time. So I made my way through it swiftly as I was keen as to eat as fast as possible. Once you leave the passage you will open up to an intersection. From here you will have many different restaurants and bars to choose from. However, I recommend you skip these and keep on heading straight. On your left you should see the magnificently designed Copenhagen University rising high above. Eventually you will find Paludan Bog & bar.

(Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/anacoreta/16049009152)

The outside area has several tables and chairs set outside. Nothing really out of the ordinary. Once you go inside you’ll witness the magic. The whole area is basically one big library. There are two different levels where you can grab yourself a book to read. Next to the windows, by the tables, high above and many more kooky places. The books range from many different languages which include English, Danish, German, French and more.

The main dining spot would be located directly to your right. To your left you’ll have another dining area and the till once you cross a doorway. The menu itself is elegant in its design. From within it you can find a few quotes from popular historical and modern characters. The options here are quiet diverse which is sure to please vegans, vegetarians and meat enthusiasts. They provide both English and Danish menus. With the many different options to eat from there are also drink deals. Students are able to grab a half litre glass of the iconic Carlsberg for 30 Krone (which is quite decent price in Copenhagen). Its a smart marketing strategy as many university students basically live off beer or coffee. So the nearby Copenhagen university would probably have enticed students. As I was keen for an eating experience I decided to get their signature Paludans board. This platter board provides different types of cheeses, sausages, dips, avocadoes, walnut jams (which go incredibly well with the cheese) and much more. I enjoyed this meal so much that I had it again on my second (and last) day in Copenhagen. The restaurant itself is quite international with meals ranging from Wok fried goodies, tacos, Spanish omelettes and much more. Their juices are also worth picking. I can’t recall which one I tried although it tasted quite rich and natural.

I ended up eating outside as it was a beautiful day. The location is quite good as there is some activity going on but not too much to get to the point of annoyance. The bar seems to be mostly populated with young people in their 20s and 30s. The place did give me an impression of being a hip bar.

Round tower

After enjoying my meal and digesting the contents, which were designed for being ‘shared’, I decided to head towards the Round Tower. The tower itself is a very pretty sight. It dates back to the 17th century when it had initially been made for sky-gazing and astronomical related work. What's special about this tower is the impressive view it has over Copenhagen. I reckon that with the majority of my travels I would always keep an eye out for the main attractions, iconic and local eateries and spots that afford spectacular views of the area. The later two are especially important as they give you a better feel for the city. Once I get an overall view of the area I tend to try and wander around the city to have a feel for the local life and architecture.

The tower is also quite strangely designed. The inside is actually a spiralling staircase that is smooth and inclined rather than having actual stairs. I recall reading one of the brochures provided. They mentioned some world record holders for bike racers shooting up the tower They even mentioned how some monarchs such as Czar Peter the Great from Russia had ascended the tower in a horse while his wife ascended by carriage. It was quite interesting to see how such historical events occurred right beneath our feet. It was slightly overwhelming to imagine how some of these structures have survived their creators and countless civilisations, wars, historical events, dynasties and much more. That's one of the things that makes Europe a charming place to visit.

Rosenborg castle

If you’re in the area I would suggest checking out the Rosenborg castle nearby. It's a very beautifully designed architectural marvel that had been expanded countless times since its inception. The castle had actually been around since the beginning of the 17th century. So if you’re curious to see old architecture then look no further.

Botanical gardens

Finally, the last place I checked out before heading off for the day was the Botanical gardens. I usually visit these types of gardens whenever I get the chance in new cities as the beauty you’re able to see varies from place to place. It's also a great place to relax from the hustle and bustle of touristic districts and breath in some fresh air. Although, it should be noted that Copenhagen’s air is relatively clean. This is augmented by the Danes’ cycling lifestyle, consumption habits, environmental sensitivity and size of their population. The tap water also tastes decent there.

After the look around I decided to grab some quick dinner from the local supermarkets then make my way back to the hostel. I was surprised to feel so relaxed. When you usually travel through busy cities such as Paris or Rome you would probably feel wholly exhausted by the end of it. However, Copenhagen is not as crazily bustling as most capital cities. The next day I woke up and prepared to meet a local mate. As I mentioned earlier, I would recommend that you check out any of the local bakeries you have near wherever you’re staying. The desserts are quite rich and flavoursome. If you’re worried about calories, then don’t. The amount of walking you’ll do all day would burn the excess off. Besides, you’re on holidays! If you can’t enjoy good food without worrying about physique on holidays then when is it ever an appropriate time?

Pride events

Regardless, I made my way over to the city while paying an almost tear-jerking three euros for my one way ride. At this point I had to carry my trusty backpack to catch the train later on in the day. Another benefit of Copenhagen is that you don’t really need to walk long distances to get from ‘A to B’. This makes lugging around your travel goods quite easy. At this point the Pride parade was fully underway. The concert hadn’t started just yet as it was only the morning.

I met up with my mate and after sharing some greetings we walked around the area. We basically spent the time on a sort of beer tour. It's a great way to catch up with mates while enjoying the specialities. We also ended up heading to the Paludan eatery from yesterday. My mate had never been there and was fully in love with the platter. After a few hours wandering around we decided to check out the Pride concert that was starting in full force.

The concert area was brimming with activity. You had many Pride flag bearers, families, and people from all walks of life enjoying the day. It was refreshing to see the amount of support people had to lead normal lives regardless of sexual orientation. Something many other countries should probably pick up. We saw many colorfully dressed individuals, some dressed like the sort of performers you would find in one of Rio’s festivals. The performers on stage were also pretty good. We had a rockstar, a couple of hip hop artists and some rappers. There were also plenty of stalls around where you could buy food and merchandise to wear.

While the stage was where the main action was taking place there was also quite a few things going around. For example, I recall that we decided to turn a corner around the city hall and found a whole group of people simply dancing by the streets. No Dj or performers. There was only a large stereo system. My mate convinced me to go dancing and we had a good time. I tossed my backpack in between us and we enjoyed our time shaking a leg. Copenhagen is pretty warm during the summer although it isn’t exactly hot. So dancing around these parts won't make you sweat uncontrollably. After some time I had to call it quits as I wanted to catch a train so as to meet a friend in Sweden.

The city hall is only a ten minute walk from the train station. So we went there and said our goodbyes. I bought my Copenhagen to Malmö ticket which passed by quite regularly and made my way to the platform. It occurred to me how easy it was to get from Denmark to Sweden. You could literally live with your parents on the weekends in Malmö then make your way to Copenhagen for weekdays for University. I know mates of mine who would take even longer to get to their universities from home in cities such as Sydney.

I also recalled a story I had read up in a Scandinavian comic. In all legal forms it is technically legal for a Danish person to beat Swedish citizens with sticks if they were ever to cross the sea into Denmark. However, T&Cs apply. For example, you are only legally allowed to do so if the Swedish citizen were to cross over while the waters were frozen. I read up that this had been done as retaliation for an invasion that had occurred a few centuries before from Sweden to Denmark.

Anyway, I would highly recommend you check out Copenhagen if you are travelling through Northern Europe. The city has much to offer and also quite a bit of history. I had only begun to scratch the surface of the historical context of the city. There are many museums that can be found in the area as well as bars and restaurants to sample the local cuisine. I would recommend you visit during the summer as the weather is quite pleasant. It's also a better idea as it gets seriously cold that far north. The days would also shorten considerably compared to some of the more southern countries. Hopefully this will serve as a general guide of what to see if you’re only around for two days in Copenhagen. However, there is much more to see if you stay longer and I recommend you explore as much of it as you can. Happy Adventuring!

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