One day in Varenna, Lago di Como, Italy

As far as one day trips around Milan go, there are an extensive number of options. One of them is Como, the famous town at the tip of Lake Como (Lago di Como), about an hour from Milan by train. I wanted to explore further ahead so I booked a return train ticket to Varenna, a small, quaint town on the banks of Lake Como. 

GOING THERE

Varenna is accessible by train (the way I travelled). The train is different from that travelling to the town of Como as Varenna lies ahead of Lecco.

Side note: Lake Como is a Y-shaped lake, with the two branches joining ahead - one branch tip is where the town of Como lies, and the other branch where the town of Lecco is, and on which side the towns of Bellagio, Varenna, etc. are accessible. 

The train from Milano Centrale to Varenna's train station was around 1 hour 20 minutes and the return ticket costed me 13 euros. I recommend taking a train no later than 11.00 am so as to reach Varenna well on time, leaving you enough time to roam around, see some sights, and also catch the sunset before coming back before dinner (more on the sunset and eating options below).

SIGHT-SEEING

I reached Varenna around lunch-time. The sun was out and it seemed like a great day! Unfortunately for me all the restaurants were closed as I went on a Sunday, so a reminder for all: Smaller towns are usually closed on Sundays so either avoid going that day or take your own lunch/snacks!

From the station, I walked ahead towards the banks of the lake. It was breath-taking! Surrounded by snow-capped mountains that were glistening because of the unfiltered sunrays passing through the peaks, the extremely clear lake water seemed filled with sparkly diamonds! This view was definitely worth the travel, and more.

After taking in the view, I started walking ahead in search of the main plaza of the town. The way is a little uphill, passing exactly along the banks of the lake, offering you views at each point. I found a small cafe on this path a little ahead from my starting point, that offered homemade gelato. It was extremely good, and two scoops costed me 2.5 euros. 

There is a wide sitting area on the rocky banks right after this gelato cafe, where ducks and sparrows waddle around the pedestrians having a small rest. It was a nice place to relax and eat, like in my case.

After finishing my gelato and playing a little with the birds, I started walking ahead. The path gets more uphill but it's a short walk. Once you reach a narrow path surrounded by tall buildings on both sides, just walk up any one of the flight of steps on the left hand side (there are many, before the last one where there is a dead end and you have to walk up from the left). I reached a small square with a church, and a few more cafes and restaurants. From here on I started walking towards the museum and the Castello di Vezio. As it was a Sunday and it was already around 4 pm, the museum was closed (Remember to avoid Sundays if possible!) The castello was open till 5.00 pm, so I walked faster, hoping to make the 30 minute walk as fast as possible! 

There are signages and boards guiding you along the way to the castle, which is situated on the peak of a hill. There is also a vehicular road that goes up there (in case you are travelling by car or cab) and a cable car as well, which was closed because, you guessed it, it being a Sunday. Anyway, there is 20-30 minute hike path as well, which I took since it was the only option left. And it was worth it! There was still time for sunset, but the fog had started settling in above the lake. The hike trail was along the hill so on your left the entire lake and mountain range could be seen from an even height. It was such a breathtaking sight that I stopped every 5 minutes to click photographs, or just appreciate the beauty of this planet!

(Some history: The Castello di Vezio is around a thousand years old. It is an ancient military outpost of early medieval origin built by the Lombard Queen Theodelinda to defend and control the lake and surrounding villages.)

The ticket for entry to the Castello di Vezio was 3 euros (for students, and 4 euros was the standard adult ticket price). The castello is accessible from a beautiful garden path. Going upwards you see a lot of ghost like sculptures (which scared me to be honest). There are also a lot of planted flowers with their names listed, which I found to be very informative. It is also home to a variety of species of birds of prey, some migratory and some permanently residing. The Castello is a single watch tower, which is accessible through a draw-bridge, like in the olden times! Walking up the staircase inside the tower, you can see old pans and pots. The small terrace top offered views of the entire town of Varenna and the country houses aorund it, as well as the lake and the mountain range. Totally worth the hike in fancy shoes!

Below the castle there are tunnels, which are accessible through a small rickety gate. These tunnels are dungeons and do have wall lights now, but I will suggest going down there only if you are not very frightful - I honestly ran back up! 

I wanted to catch the sunset from the hike trail, so from the dungeons I went back the way I had come. And the sunset did not disappoint! It was so beautiful that I stopped for about ten minutes when I realized that the hike trail would not be suitable with a darkened sky as I was not in proper hiking attire.

After reaching the main road, I walked back the way I had come, towards the train station. There was one cafe/restaurant open which is located at the station itself, but it was just 6.30 pm and I felt I could get cheaper options for dinner back in Milan (like eating at home).

I did check the prices for all the restaurants in Varenna that were closed that day, and it is quite expensive! So do remember to pack some snacks if possible, even if you are not travelling on a Sunday.

There is another way of travelling to Varenna, by taking the train or bus to Como and then travelling via the ferry that travels to all these towns on the banks of Lake Como, up till Colico. Honestly I had less time and felt like it was a little more expensive (13 euros return ticket for Como, then around 10-15 euros for the ferry, apart from the cost of lunch/dinner/snacks). Although you are welcome to try this route, if you have time and a bigger budget than me!