Reminiscing my first Christmas in Europe (Part 1): Budapest Market Square in focus

One of the most wonderful seasons of the year is the month of nativity of the Messiah. Among Christians, Christmas will always be commemorated as a moment of joy and a season of giving and sharing. It is the season of songs, of wine and sounds. It was the period to forget loneliness and welcome the great and happy moments that the Yuletide season offers.

 When they said that Christmas in Europe is uniquely one of the most amazing celebrations in the world, they are not mistaken. Since this was my first time to celebrate Christmas in a European I was without idea how Christmas is being celebrated among adherents of Christianity in Hungary. So I was curious and at the same time thrilled to witness winter Christmas in Budapest. In order to document my observations and impressions on the celebration, I noted of the different activities and celebrations that were being undertaken before and during the Christmas time in one of the most wonderful cities in Eastern Central Europe.

I would argue that Christmas in Budapest can be considered as among the liveliest, bustling and exciting Christmas celebrations in the continent. There were a great number of activities that will surely fill your day. Even as early as November, you can already feel the Christmas atmosphere in the city because of the different lights, decorations, sounds and music and events. I, myself, can fairly say that Budapest is even more beautiful and stunning during the advent of the Christmas time. I tried to diversify my Budapest Christmas exploration activities in a number of days and I can personally confidently say that there were no boring moments of mine during my stay in the city. I did not escape a day visiting different sections of the city discovering events and activities ten days before Christmas.

Allow me to share some of these events, activities, and celebrations which I have personally experienced and witnessed during my first semester mobility at the Corvinus University in a series of blog posts. I know this list is not exhaustive but I am pretty sure that this list represents at least the common activities, events and sights that one can enjoy during the Yuletide season in Budapest.

In this article I will describe my general impressions and observations of the Christmas market in Budapest which really a popular must-see in the city during November to December. I have been to the two Christmas markets squares in the city and I am glad to share this to my fellow students who plan to spend their exchange program or study in Budapest.

Budapest Christmas market

Do you know that one of the most obvious signs that Christmas is in the air in Budapest is when you see certain market centers of the city being adorned with colorful decorations, embellished with lights and hues that definitely is the classical description of a “shining, shimmering, splendid Christmas.”

As I may recall, when I was in Budapest, there were two locations within the city centre where Christmas markets can be found. Both are situated in District V of the city. The first one was in Vorosmarty Square; and the second in Saint Stephen’s Square. These two locations were really popular hang-out places even as early as the second week of November because of their famed Christmas markets. Thousands of tourists, I would say, visit the fair every year. They were both bustling with activities and they were lots of good things to see, to eat and to do in both markets.

Christmas market in Vorosmarty Square

Christmas market in Vorosmarty Square is an old tradition in Budapest that has been a long established practice. When I visited the Vorosmarty Square in Budapest during the first week of December, I was amazed at the festive atmosphere in the square. It was an atmosphere of excitement and anticipation. The square is like a fairytale setting where one can find harmonious blending of sights and sounds. Christmas songs make the ambiance relaxing and energizing. They say Christmas is primarily for children. This might be true as the square is teeming with little kids who are enjoying the sweets in the food stalls, playing in the grounds as though there is no tomorrow, forgetful of any problem. Childhood really is the most joyful period of our life, particularly when we had a good childhood memories of the Yuletide season. However, in the case of Budapest, while Christmas is basically for children, it is for everybody. Young and old alike, are generally in a Christmas festive mood when they hear the old Christmas songs which sometimes bring in them a sense of silent joyfulness and calmness of the soul, that innate longing for the magic feeling that Christmas exudes.

Take a look at this photo of one of the stalls in Vorosmarty Square with the colours and decors all rejoicing in harmony with the Christmas atmosphere.

What really makes the Christmas market in Vorosmarty Square a classic Christmas setting which resembles those which we see and hear in old tales are the different food stalls that were put up. Personally, I was really thrilled to see the materials used in the stalls which are typical of the idyllic Christmas settings, wooden and natural-looking, inducing a feeling of longing to what has been in the past, a looking back of the old good feeling they call Christmas. It is really a sight to behold the barbecue stands and food stalls displaying delicious and mouth watering Christmas dishes, the good stout gentleman robed in the traditional white chef uniform of the olden days in the open kitchen roasting beef ribs, sausages and sucklings. What a sight to behold! Then as I waited for my hot goulash with bread to be served in my table, I found myself being in elated mood as I listen to the relaxing melody of a Christmas song which was really familiar to me. It is entitled, “The First Noel.” Let me share you its lyrics here:

The First Noel the angel did say
Was to certain poor shepherds
in fields as they lay;
In fields as they lay, keeping their sheep,
On a cold winter's night that was so deep.

Noel, Noel, Noel, Noel,
Born is the King of Israel.

They looked up and saw a star
Shining in the east beyond them far,
And to the earth it gave great light,
And so it continued both day and night.

And by the light of that same star
Three wise men came from country far;
To seek for a king was their intent,
And to follow the star wherever it went.

This star drew nigh to the northwest,
O'er Bethlehem it took it rest,
And there it did both stop and stay
Right over the place where Jesus lay.

Then entered in those wise men three
Full reverently upon their knee,
and offered there in his presence
Their gold, and myrrh, and frankincense.

Then let us all with one accord
Sing praises to our heavenly Lord;
That hath made heaven and earth of naught,
And with his blood mankind hath bought

I do not intend to sound too nostalgic and melodramatic at this point but the music brought me in trance allowing me to reflect for a moment and appreciate all the good things in life that I have had that year and I was really grateful. Christmas can break us apart to tears. Christmas songs can also make us remember the intrinsic goodness in us. It makes us go down the memory lane and realize how grateful we ought to be in life despite and in spite of hardships. Christmas in Vorosmarty Square really has a magic charm of its own. This is what I really appreciate Christmas the Hungarian way: songs and sights, colours and lights at their very best!

Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Square

The Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Basilica, in my observation, shares some similarities in terms of decorations, structure and over-all design with that of the Christmas market in Vorosmarty Square. However, there were also marked differences. Let me give you my brief impressions of the Christmas Market in Saint Stephen’s Square. When I went to Saint Stephen’s Basilica to observe the Christmas market square atmosphere, I chanced upon the early morning mass in the Basilica and was lucky enough to have been able to attend and hear the homily for the day. After which, I observed a group of people assembled in the stairs of the entrance of the Basilica starting to choreograph themselves as though positioning to arrange themselves in a choir formation. So I decided to stay for a few minutes before going down to walk around the square to discover for myself what are to be seen in the area. The spectacle that I witnessed is worth the wait as I found myself enjoying the choir merrily rendering Christmas songs. It was an uplifting experience! It was a joyful moment for me as I join them singing “O Come, O Ye Faithful,” “Silent Night, Holy Night,” “Joy to the World,” to mention a few, in my hoarse tone. Christmas songs never lose magic. It creates a feeling of joyfulness, a feeling of being one with the world in celebration of the birth of a child in Bethlehem.

Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Square is nowhere far from the Basilica itself. It is within the immediate vicinity of the Basilica. Hence, when I decided to visit the Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Square, it was a perfect plan for me because I can attend the mass first and enjoy the colorful sceneries and festive atmosphere after an hour of communion with the Divine Providence. It was a perfect location since Christmas market was made even closer to the church, making Christmas celebration a tradition close to the church and the people.

How can I forget my visit of the Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Square? The memory of such a visit is still vivid in my mind. When I went to Square, the picturesque structure of the Saint Stephen Basilica was the first thing that greeted me upon the entrance. Then as I approach the Basilica I saw a skating rink at the center where children can play and enjoy the winter snow.

I felt envious of the kids playing in the skating rink but I was already too old for this stuff and was way overage to join them so I just contented myself taking a picture of the skating rink.

 In both sides were food stalls and stores selling different merchandise that are typically sold during Christmas. In my left, I feasted my eyes on the food stalls which sell roasted geese, sausages and ribs. I was tempted to get a roasted geese leg but I was not yet hungry so I resolved to visit first all the stalls and then take my lunch after perhaps starving myself for an hour or two. This appears like a little crimp of me but I enjoy dining more when I feel hungrier than I would ordinarily be.

Who would not be tempted with these delightful spectacles at sight. Theumamiis urging your taste buds to get ready for another gastronomic war. What a sight!

There was also a stall which sells roasted chestnuts. It was really good to see chestnuts being roasted in the traditional way. When I was taking pictures of the different stalls I was like a little child whose curiosity was piqued by the different sights before me. I have never seen chestnuts being roasted the traditional way to be very honest and candidly, the scene gave me feeling of nursing my childhood longing for the Christmas that I see in folk tales and old movies.

One thing that caught my attention in the Christmas market in Saint Stephen’s Square are the handicraft stalls. I marveled at the masterful creations displayed in the handicraft store. They were carefully and skillfully designed, with elaborate embroidery and some with exquisite and artistic designs. I was just wondering how much time was spent just to be able to produce one of the items in display. It must have required a lot of effort and patience for these stuffs really require careful attention to details and keen reflections of the over-all design, allowing the handicraft artist to visualize a vivid imagery of his intended product before turning them into a concrete masterful artistic handicraft creation.

I cannot help but admire these artistic and masterful handicraft masterpieces. But I was way out of sufficient budget to purchase one as token of my visit. 

I also love the stall which sells different sweets---candies, lollipops, etc. They make me feel like I was a little child again, with keen curiosity to the colorful and enticing shapes and forms of the sweets before me. I generally do not have a sweet tooth, but there was something in me that told me that it was okay to take a few pieces to satisfy my childhood desires for sweet, which perhaps has been ignored sometime in my childhood past.

Finally, the mulled wine which gave me warmth and comfort for the next two hours of my stroll in the area would also top my list of memorable stuff that I did when I went to the Christmas market. How can I forget the comforting and reassuring feeling that the mulled wine had effected on me while the harsh winter chill of Budapest (which has been below zero in the past few weeks) willfully crawled all over my body despite the thick winter clothing I put on during that morning to protect me from the harsh weather.

This keeper of the mulled wine stall was very friendly and permitted to take a picture of his stall.  

So far this has been my experience of the Budapest Christmas market. It was not Christmas yet when I visited the squares, but the general atmosphere in both squares has been, so festive and colorful, that you would think it was already the 24thor 25thday of December.

When you find yourself in Budapest during November or December, I would highly recommend that you visit these two squares to see the colourful and meaningful spectacles, the joyful and festive atmosphere and to see and experience that good old feeling that is Christmas the Hungarian way.

Photo gallery