Dining in Serbia #10

Getting there

Just before this trip I was spending some time in the beautiful city of Budapest. A great place for both culture and entertainment. I had taken a bus to get to Serbia. Specifically Belgrade. The trip took about four hours by Flixbus. It was a scenic route to take. The North of Serbia was quite flat and there wasn’t really too much to see in the sense of human structures but unadulterated nature. It was also a bit unfortunate that my sim card stopped providing me internet.

Its important to note that if you buy a sim card within a European Union member country then you can you said card in any other European Union member country without incurring any surcharges such as roaming rates. This has been especially useful in quite a few countries I had travelled through during my trip. However, some countries that are not part of the EU officially are not able to reap these benefits such as Switzerland and Serbia.

This made the trip feel quite long as I couldn’t really plan for anything on my phone. So I recommend you remind yourselves of this fact when travelling non-EU countries with an EU member sim card.

For those travelling around Europe, flixbus (and other bus services) are usually the cheapest way to travel from country to country. Grabbing an Interrail Global pass is also another prudent choice for the budget traveller. I wont get into too much detail of the different types of passes. Although, it's important you know the main parts to help you decide whether to get one or not. The way my Interrail Global pass works is that I paid to have seven days of unlimited travel which I could use within a month. The day begins as soon as you sign in the day till midnight of that day. There are special rules and loopholes they allow for you to travel more trips within twenty four hours. However, you will need to read up about it in their terms and conditions.

So when you get this pass you will have to use it wisely. In my case, I use my travel days on long haul trips with some ranging a hundred euros per trip. In the end, including mail charge and insurance, it cost me a total of 274 euros for my Interrail pass. By the end of the trip it would have cost me nearly three times the price.if I had not bought the travel pass. Although, if you are travelling short trips between countries or within countries themselves. For example, in Italy I traveled from Parma to Venice to Florence and to Rome by paying for the train while instead using the pass travelling from Rome to Vienna. Flixbus is also a great way to travel budget when you aren’t using your day passes.

Hostel

Returning back to reality. Upon crossing the border you will be stopped and have your passports inspected. Make sure you have your passports at the ready for a fifteen minute endeavour. The bus will drop you off close to park Luke Ćelovića. This part is also conveniently placed next to one of the main train stations in Belgrade. I was staying in a  hostel called Hostel Inn Downtown. This place is found only a five minute walk from that park. Just around the corner from this place you could find a currency exchange shop. This place will be able to convert whatever currency you have to the Serbian Dinar. The rates are also in your favour as these places tend to be less cutthroat than train stations and airports. However, as always, I recommend that you count your money in front of them to make sure you’ve got the right amount. It's better to feel a bit sheepish rather than lose money you could've used for a nice dinner or worse.

(Source:https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g294472-d3298059-Reviews-Hostel_Inn_Downtown_Belgrade-Belgrade.html)

After converting a certain amount of money I then dragged my trusty backpack back to the hostel doors. You’ll have to buzz the very top floor to get inside. After being allowed in you’ll have to walk several flights of stairs to get to the very top. It's one heck of a trip up there. Panting and just short of passing out I finally make it to the big white door of the hostel. The inside looked exactly like a normal apartment would which had been refitted into a hostel. There were three rooms that were turned into bedrooms with multiple beds. There was a kitchen area and a large balcony which was the most relaxing part of the hostel as it had a view and access to the clear blue summer skies.

My bedroom was a small room with six beds. It was pretty full as we were in August, this was a popular trip to travel. My bed was pretty comfortable although lacked curtains of any sort. It was also a mixed gender room. This hostel didn’t provide any male or female only rooms. They offered wifi but no breakfast. To be honest I wasn’t too fussed as the hostel itself cost a measly six euros per night and was a ten minute walk from the centre of the city. It was soon becoming evening and I decided to do some random walking around before I start properly adventuring the next day. To get to the inner part of the city you will have to walk uphill for about ten minutes. Along the way you will see lots of different restaurants and shopping areas. Lots of trinkets and knick knacks can be found walking through this area. After quite a bit of walking from alley to alley I finally made it to one of the main squares, Republic Square.

Republic Square and dinner

This square is one of the most notable in Belgrade. I didn’t realise it at first until I started reading up about it. Apparently there is the National Museum, national theatre and a statue dedicated to a Serbian Prince named Michael. Inspected the national theatre and was impressed. The exterior was absolutely gorgeous. I’ll go into detail later into this article on the day I checked the interior.

One thing I noticed in my first fifteen minutes of walking around is that this city is not one drastically populated by tourists. The city feels more authentic as you walk, shop and dine with the locals. I stuck around the square for a bit soaking in the Serbian air. Along the way I saw quite a few bookstores and decided to check some out tomorrow. I spent about thirty minutes reading and watching everyday life in Belgrade pass by. After some time I decided to grab some dinner as the last rays of the sun were extinguished by the approaching night sky.

(Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Republic_Square_(Belgrade))

One of the things I was highly anticipating were the relatively cheap prices of food, by Australian standards. The hostel price was a taste of what's to come. I was keen to spend a decent sum of money for great quality and large portions. Quality and large portions is exactly what I got. I looked up some nice Serbian restaurants to enjoy a good local meal. I ended up finding the Mala Gostionica found a short walk from the Republic square.

The place was quite busy at the time. The inside looked quite cozy although I decided to eat outside as the night air was nice and warm. I was served by two social and polite waiters. Whenever you go to countries and are keen to taste the local foods then make sure to ask for recommendations from waiters. They usually eat at the restaurant often and can tell you what's good to eat. This way, not only will you get delicious food but also have a taste of the local cuisine.

I ended up having a three course meal. I had a type of delicious salad for entree. For my main meal I had a large steak with bacon scraps on top and a large side of fries. I ended it all up with one of Serbia’s most popular (and contested) desserts, Baklava. The Baklava choice will get you three different large baklavas. They were divine tasting. The steak was also pretty rich. After my meal I returned to my hostel so I could have an early morning rise.

Perks of the hostel

If I hadn’t mentioned this before, the showers in the hostel was especially clean. I enjoyed a nice and refreshing shower after waking up. If you need to wash your clothes then they also provide a washing machine. However, they don’t have a dryer. They allow you to dry your clothes in the large balcony area. They have a couple of hangers to let your clothes on.

Regardless, before every big adventure you’ll need a big meal to keep you going. If you exit this hostel and take two rights and walk straight then you will be faced with a tiny but well stocked bakery after a minute of walking. There are many different types of pastries to choose from and the prices are out of this world good. I grabbed myself brekkie here and starting walking up the hill again to begin exploring.

Church Saint-Marc of Belgrade

My main goal for the day is to check out the Belgrade fortress. From there I’ll check out whatever there is to offer on the way and then get to my next destinations on the way.back. I firstly decided to check out one of the most popular churches in Belgrade. It was only a fifteen minute walk so I decided I might as well do so. After a relaxed walk in the cool morning sun I reached Church Saint-Marc of Belgrade. 

The exterior of the church is elegantly designed. The surrounding area was a mostly empty car park. The area around the church is filled with grassy areas and a small park where a few people were walking their dogs or jogging. The inside of the Church is very pretty. It's not as large or majestic as many of the churches you might find around Europe, although it has its own charm. It was pretty quiet by the time I visited. There were only a couple of church goers and a small family of tourists. After I was satisfied, I then made my way out and straight to the inner city to see what else Belgrade had to offer.

Knez Mihailova

The city had more life today as I approached the more touristy parts of the city. The street I would recommend taking to get to the fortress is the Knez Mihailova. This street is the main shopping area of the city. Along the way you’ll also find many historical buildings that looked as though they were centuries old. However, they are well maintained. Along the way there are plenty of places to shop along the way. You can find many clothes brand, Jewelry, shops, restaurants and many souvenir shops.

I stopped by quite a few places just to have a look around. Many of the souvenir shops sell mini bottles of Rakija. One of those shops had over a dozen different types of flavours for the bottles. You can have plum, lemon, grape, strawberries and many many more for only a few euros (or dinar in this case) per mini bottle. They’re pretty easy to transport with you throughout the day or to take back home.

Regardless, I continued my trip onwards. The strip was just over one kilometre and it took me almost an hour to get through. I had been distracted by not only the shops with different and unique knick knacks but also different types of performers in the middle of the streets. My favourite were a duet of violines. These played many beautiful tunes in harmony with one another. There were also some illusionist, guitar players and more. You could also find many artists painting portraits of passersby or famous people.

At the very end of this popular street there is a Belgian fries shop. Not exactly the most Serbian thing to eat, although I do recommend you have a try. They offer many different types of sauces and bits to add to your fries. Whether you want caramelised onions, bacon bits or cheese along with one of many different sauces. It was definitely a great way to get going.

Just after enjoying my fries I headed back north to the castle. I noticed on the map I grabbed in the hostel that there are quite a few museums located around. Within the grassy area you could find a military museum dedicated to mostly World War two military grade weapons. I didn’t visit it on that day. Rather, I continued to make my way forward. I spotted the Monument of Gratitude to France. I read up that this monument was erected on 1930 to thank France for its military education of Serbian forces in the First World War. The monument were surrounded with well-taken care of trees and an assortment of roses and other colorful flowers.

Belgrade Fortress

Less than a few minutes walk from here you’ll have the Belgrade fortress. I was surprised to find out that there was no entrance fee to check out this tourist attraction. I was pretty happy finding out about that. Serbia is truly a great budget country to visit for those coming from countries such as Australia. The most spectacular bit of the place which I enjoyed is the absolutely striking view of the area around in its main viewing platform. You could spot the Danube river and much of Nova Belgrade and some surrounding towns separated by a river. Quite a bit of the surrounding area was also forests so it's a very green view. The background of the beautiful blue sky made the view even more scenic.

Another striking piece of information I learnt that day is that for centuries the people of Belgrade lived within these walls. That is to say, that the whole population and everything that ever happened within Belgrade happened mostly within that fortress. It boggles the mind to imagine how a serene place would be able to house the whole population of the city with houses, stables, markets and all. Although, in retrospect it isn’t unreasonable as the fortress grounds were pretty large.

(Source: http://www.visionsoftravel.org/belgrade-fortress-serbia/)

Shopping

After some time inspecting the area I then returned back towards the city. Random piece of information. If you’re looking for a nifty souvenir, I would recommend keeping a specific money bill. One of the Serbian bills has Nikola Tesla on it. It's on the 100 note and it has a nice hue of blue. I kept two of them and gave one to a mate of mine who I met up in Poland. They also have a Nikola Tesla museum if that sort of thing tickles your fancy.

I decided to return back to the main shopping street and have another look around. Every alley had different restaurants and shops to explore. I slowly made my way towards the Republic Square.

One thing that I had noticed earlier during my walk from the Church to the inner city is the amount of books stores everywhere. It was pretty crazy the amount of places that sell books. Some of them in the most unconventional ways. For example, besides the many bookstores there were also some pop-up tables with books stacked behind bus stops. The strangest one was a group of four cars relatively close by to each other. They had their boot opened and they were completely filled with books. The vendors literally sat right outside the car and there was a hanging sign stating how much each book cost. It seems the reading culture here must be thriving if this sort of business is popular.

I didn’t think to stop and check out the books as I assumed they were all in Serbia. However, I was curious to check out the selection of books they were selling in any one of the many bookstores. I ended up going to a place called ‘Knjižare Vulkan’. This large bookstore is located only a minutes walk from the Republic square. It is a large bookstore that has a variety of genres to choose from. They had an english section which I inspected and found some pretty nice books. They also had a few shelfs dedicated to some classics such as War of the Worlds, Romeo and Juliet, Othello and many more. I decided to buy four different classics as they were on offer for only a few euros each. I was satisfied with my purchase and decided to go grab lunch.

The search for food

As I mentioned before, I had been on a budget trip travelling around Europe. I ended up shopping for lunch and dinner at a supermarket. I always enjoy checking out the supermarkets of different countries as they usually offer so many products that you may never have seen before. I ended up grabbing several different chocolate bars, a few pastries and a locally made sausage. I also grabbed some cheese and bread and made myself a tasteful sandwich for the price of peanuts. The chocolate bars themselves were wildcards which I would later find out throughout today. Rather than eat those chocolate bars straight away I decided to go to a proper Baklava store to enjoy dessert. While I was living in Lebanon it was very common to make pastries in the same manner of Baklavas and its sister pastries. Syrup is a very popular ingredient in both Arabic and Balkan dessert cuisines.

As with most of my trips, I would go into great lengths and long distances to find tasty food. This is especially true if this good food is something I have never tried before. In this case, I went to a place called ‘Balkan Baklava & Döner’. The street was bustling with activity as people went to and fro from wherever. The store itself was pretty quiet as it was past lunch time. It's a small area with the wall facing the street completely made out of windows. In the outside area looking in you would be able to see in big words ‘Balkan Baklava’.

The place itself, as the name implies, offers baklava as well as kebabs. This also includes different types of hamburgers, fries, sandwiches and salads. The counter of the store is mostly glass showcasing the different baklavas they have. They have so many different flavours to try from ranging from almond, pistachio and much more. It was so hard to decide. The vendor was a cheerful man with a permanent smile during our struggle to breach the language gap. He was kind enough to let me try a couple of flavours without me asking. By the end of it I must’ve gotten a quarter of a kilogram of several different baklavas. As a final show of his kindness he gave me another different Baklava flavour as a gift. I highly recommend you check out its place as its service and Baklavas are divine.

(Source: https://foursquare.com/v/balkan-baklava/5215dc4c11d26f623aaded71)

They do have an inside area where you can enjoy your meal with a nice view of the street. However, it was a beautiful day and I decided to sit down in one of the nearby small parks as they had multiple benches strewn around. This area is literally a stone's throw away away from this store. It was a very serene area with a few locals passing by. It's a great place to soak in the sun and relax with the locals nearby. This area also had a few bars and restaurants if you’re keen to check this area out. I ended up getting half my Baklavas while reading my book. It's a bit of a strategic situation as the heavily syrup based desserts are not very paper friendly.

Concluding the day

I spent the rest of the day exploring the local area. I wanted to see more of what Belgrade had to offer away from all the more touristy areas. I spent the next couple of hours walking around and finding nice places to grab a snack before eating my supermarket dinner. By the end of it I decided to head back to the hostel. I had to wake up pretty early tomorrow to catch one of my two mind-numbingly long train trips.

I had not mentioned this before but the hostel I was staying at will keep your passport as collateral. This is something I had forgotten and was in a bit of a difficult situation. Let's paint a picture. It's around 7 am in the morning. I was not used to waking up this early. I groggily pack my stuff and make my way to the train station. I was not a hundred percent positive if this was the right station and I was a bit stressed as I had to take a couple of trains and if I missed them then I would lose a day of travel and waste my hostel stay in th next country.

As you can imagine, I was pretty stressed. I also had to buy my train seat reservation. Now, do you recall when I told you my sim card was Spanish and I couldn’t contact anybody within an EU country as I didn’t have the funds for roaming charges. I got a random message. I usually ignore these sms as I get about five of them everytime I enter a new country. I take a glance as I was waiting in line for my train seat reservation. After I saw the text, my heart shot into full throttle. I had twenty minutes to get to my hostel (which was a ten minute walk) grab my passport and back where I would need to pay for my seat reservation.

I sprinted into a corner and tossed my heavy backpack and went full Usain Bolt to my hostel. I reached the doors, get buzzed in, then shoot up the long flight of stairs. The receptionist was not looking very amused. I thanked him for his text, snatch my passport and sprint all the way back to the train station. Luckily my backpack hadn’t been touched. I quickly turn a corner to the ticket vending area and get into line. A vendor and a lady were having a nice chit chat. I broke it up politely as possible with the last few breaths in me and explained my situation in one sentence. The poor lady was physically stressed after hearing me. Bless her heart, she was very quick. I grabbed my ticket reservation and printed onto the platform. I presented my ticket to the conductor. He took one glance at my sweaty and messy appearance and didn’t express any sort of interest or bewilderment. I quickly jump onto the closest carriage and collapse into the closest empty chair. Overheating and panting, I felt a rush of euphoria for making it. Less than forty seconds later the train was moving.

If I had missed that train then I would be arriving 12 hours later to my next destination. This would put a big wrench in my eurotrip plan. I realised two things that day. One, that you should always make sure you grab all your most vital valuables rather than take it for granted and expect them to be in your bag somewhere. Secondly, that I hate morning workouts. I was glad that I was finally on my way to my next destination: Copenhagen, Denmark.

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