Smooth as Silk

Smooth as Silk                                                                                                                    Thailand 2014

Sitting silently, I waited for the plane’s engine to roar and come to life. It’s my 3rd journey to the mystical Thai capital city, but. it will be my first time to actually set foot and see for myself, in partial detail, the city and what people were saying about its beauty and mystery.

Wikipedia: Bangkok is the capital and most populous city of Thailand. It is known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon. (กรุงเทพมหานคร)

Thailand’s capital is a large city known for ornate shrines and vibrant street life. The boat-filled Chao Phraya River feeds its network of canals, flowing past the Rattanakosin royal district, home to opulent Grand Palace and its sacred Wat Phra Kaew Temple. Nearby is Wat Pho Temple with an enormous reclining Buddha and, on the opposite shore, Wat Arun Temple with its steep steps and Khmer-style spire.

Bangkok’s international airport, Subarnavhumi, is one of the busiest airports in the world. It is an Asian hub that challenges the fierce competition offered by Singapore and Hong Kong during those days when the boom in Asian air travel started in the early 70’s.

It has every reason. The airport is located in one of the most strategic locations that connect Asia, Europe and the Middle East. It was the time of migration and of searching for a greener pasture and Bangkok offered an alternative that anchored itself on good and sincere service.

Manila 2014

I looked down from the tiny oval-shaped window and noticed that the workers were already finalizing their routine check-up, the baggage men and their long baggage carrier already gone moving like a snake until it was already out of sight. I surmised what will be in store for me in this journey why I feel so relaxed and yet uneasy.

I enjoyed the take off focusing my digital camera to the former rice field that is now filled with residential homes, subdivisions and economic zones. Some years ago, it’s was coloured green, teeming with life and a pleasant sight to see. The silhouette of Mt. Makiling from afar is still vivid in my memory. Now, it was almost nowhere to be seen. As the glare from the roof entered the lens of my camera that was almost blinding, I immediately moved the focus on the passing clouds as the plane stabilizes in mid-air.

When satisfied, I turned off my camera, contemplated for about a minute, rested my head and started to fall asleep. But, before that I was able to slip a single piece of chocolate bar in front of me, inside the net basket that’s usually filled with reading and instructional materials. I said to myself that somehow I have something to eat given that it’s a budget airline which provided no food for those who cannot afford or chooses not to avail of it.

Bangkok 2014

The journey was short. Suddenly, the announcement to fasten the seat belt filled the pressurized cabin. I obliged, but, found out that I didn’t even unlock my waist before falling asleep during take-off. I looked outside the window and marveled at the silhouette of Thai farmlands. I found myself looking for their secret – I noticed something about the irrigation system. I do not know anything about agriculture, but, I’m sure water is needed to grow plants.

As the plane approached the runway, it was now clearer to me that these hole-like structures next to the plantations are filled with water. Most probably, they were meant to catch the rainwater to provide for the irrigation for difficult-to-reach places. I was amazed by how the Thais value agriculture. I found out later that it is, and will always be, part of their culture. I learned that the people of Thailand produced food religiously to offer to the Almighty as part of their belief and religion. I guess it’s the same for my country, but, not as passionate. They are proud of being farmers.

The purpose of my visit to Thailand is to improve on my profession. However, other than that, I am more interested about the city made famous by what people who went there ahead of me and told about the world about its mystique. It was a fairy-tale story that made me more curious and excited. Then I planned ahead.

Two days gone and it was my turn to see for myself what was written and told by people for years. I wasn’t surprised by the way the SkyTrain or the Airport Rail Link was built by the Thai, themselves. It was built out of necessity. There was a point in time I read about the news of extreme flooding in the capital city. It was so devastating that the city was paralyzed. The main river, Chao Phrya, overflowed overnight due to heavy rain. Crops were damaged and the city was relegated to a standstill.

That was before. I never heardof the same news again.

At the banks of Chao Phrya, I looked at the waters of the famous river. After enjoying the “tuktuk”, a three-wheeled vehicle which is a favorite way to get around Bangkok, the driver brought me to a quay where a waiting receptionist offered me the Chao Phrya ride. A once-in-a-blue-moon chance, I took the offer, regretted the price, but, found myself already inside the boat that will bring me to the river’s tributaries or Khlongs, where the Thai civilization is said to have started and blossomed.

The boatman skillfully maneuvered the wooden vessel inside the narrow tributaries. I readied my camera while avoiding the splashing water from getting into it. Here, I discovered the secrets of Thailand.

Passing by a row of stilt houses, I noticed that the architecture is typical. From the waterfront, Thai houses come with a “veranda” or terrace, with stairs that lead to the water. A garden to grow water lilies and “kangkong”, a kind of water spinach or swamp cabbage, can be found in more spacious residential places.

Old trading posts and warehouses are placed side-by-side, most probably because during those days, the area was the commercial district that received all kinds of commodities. From afar, I can see the tall golden Buddha outside a temple which was under renovation. There were lots of them. The number of fingers in a person’s palm is not enough to count how many they were along the tributaries.

As the boat traversed the interconnected tributaries, there were smaller boats that sell snacks and soda. I remember the fish food that the receptionists forced me to buy. At first, I was reluctant because the price of “matsakaw” (crisp toasted leftover bread) was too much for me to accept. But, the charming receptionist told me that it will bring me luck and good fortune if I bring it with me and feed the fish along the journey. So I did.

The boatman smiled at me and pointed to the fish pen as he slowed down the wooden boat which was filled with decorative flowers. I stood up to look for the “matsakaw” inside my bag. If the fish won’t eat it, I will. Again, I looked at the boatman smilingly waiting for my move. I saw a young woman throwing the same bread crumbs to the swarming fish in the dirty water. While innocently throwing the fish food, I am also looking at the happy woman doing the same. She seems to be very contented in life. I took several photos of the fish without even knowing what does it means to me.

When the boatman noticed that I’ m already finished feeding the fish, he re-started the engine. No, I didn’t even have the opportunity to take a “selfie”. I found it difficult to balance my feet and conscious that the young woman was like bidding goodbye. I interpreted it as a sign to finish the ritual and went back to my seat. I sat back and looked forward to more surprises. I was not mistaken, but, I cannot describe them all. Maybe those were the mystiques that people who went here ahead of me experienced.

A young lad sat in a terrace in front of a bugle. As he continuously pounced on the drums, I stood up and took several pictures while the boat was in motion. The boat passed by and I looked back at the boy who seemed to be enjoying what he was doing. But, it seems he was also angry at something he had no idea of. He beat the drum heavily until the sounds disappeared from where I stood still and surprised. The boatman was looking at me expressionless sitting at the rear end of his boat. The midday sun started to get unbearable.

We moved on towards the mouth of the river and there it was like going back to reality. It was like a dream. Large commercial and military vessels were now in sight. A beautiful red wooden boat filled with tourists cut our path. The boatman gave way. Then, we crossed the other side of the banks where I alighted. From that same platform, I could see the famous Wat Arum or Temple of Dawn, they said, is the most beautiful and mystical temple of all the Thai temples.

It feels like the end of a dream.

Crossing the street, my feet led me to another temple, Wat Pho. At first, I hesitated to enter its door knowing that I’m almost over my budget. But, it’s too early to go back to the airport and here’s my chance. Not everybody knows that travel is not a cheap activity. For an unprepared traveler, Bangkok is not cheap. But, I always have this belief that everything happens for a reason. Travel, like education, is a worthwhile investment.

The mathematics in Pattaya was in, itself, already a gift. A once-in-a-lifetime gift, to attend it for free is already a blessing. Education is not free, more so with such opportunity. What else could I ask for? So, I have this extra money to spend and I feel like going back to my old ways of being thrifty and to some extent, stingy. My father has so much influence in my secured and guarded upbringing. I decided to spend, for me a big deal. There is no free lunch, as the saying goes. Once you’re empty, you can hardly find a friend.

Tourists flocked to this temple for simple reason that it is where the famous “reclining Buddha” can be found. I fell in line looking at the surrounding candles and joss sticks. The smell of the smoke told me that I am in Asia. I never had such comparable feeling in any other place that I have been to.

Asia is mystical, so they said. I agreed.

At the temple’s entrance, we were asked to take off our shoes and put on the required clothing. As we walked along the corridor surrounding the statue, paintings of the ancient Thai civilizations adorned the wall that extends from the floor to the ceiling. There were paintings of young Thai boys protecting and escorting a beautiful young Thai lady. Three clean-cut Thai boys wondering at something interesting not seen. My camera was incessantly clicking at every opportunity. I have lots of beautiful moments to keep and treasure for life. The thoughts of it were, in itself, a treasure that is to be shared, cherished for the rest of our borrowed time on earth.

One thing is for sure, though. Never bring home any replica or relic that pertains to Buddha. It is as sacred as anybody’s belief.

  - END -