Big in Vietnam

EMMASIA 2014

Stefan Nikolaev Raychev

Location:                    Hanoi, Vietnam

Period of study:          (February 2016 – August 2016) 

Home University: Brandenburg Technical University in Cottbus

Program: World Heritage Studies with UNESCO 2014/16

Host University: Thang Long University Hanoi

Program: Masters of International Business Administrating and Management

The EMMAsia exchange program gives the opportunity for students in Europe and Asia to spend a period of 3 up to 12 months in a different University and academic organization. However, the truly experience comes with the rapid change of location, culture and social values and norms at the specific country.

It is around a year back when I applied for the program after a newsletter invitation from my home University. Application process is friendly and the webpage has sufficient information to answer most of the questions, which might arise at that time. In addition, the program offers scholarships to support the chosen candidates in financial terms, while the exchange is ongoing, which I believe plays a crucial role in selecting such a journey for a long period of time.

Receiving a morning call with my approval for the program was really a very surprising event and tremendous joy for the unknown future and this great opportunity ahead of me. Soon after confirming my place at the selected University in Vietnam I was contacted by both Universities representatives to get support in organizing the whole administrative related documents such as: visa, insurance, accommodation, curriculum program etc. Although the visa process took a long period of time and caused some difficulties in its specifications I managed to obtain it good in advance to complete the requirements on time. In specifics the state of Vietnam required immigration code as well as a registration by the Ministry of Education to allow 6 months’ multiple entry visa for my studies. I received great support from both Universities program leaders and soon all requirement pre arrival were met in a timely manner.

            Arriving in Asia after almost two days of travelling and numerous inter stops was the first step of my unforgettable experience. I was exhausted with no idea of the surrounding place and desperate need for a proper sleep. The host University has organized a transfer for me, which in the time I discovered is luxury welcoming as most of the transport in Hanoi is done by motorbikes. In this matter let me give you some insight from the place where I spend 6 months. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam with population of more or less than 10 million people, including the suburbs. It is a megacity by nowadays perception. Even with my little experience as a tourist in Asia a few years ago in Thailand and Cambodia I was not prepared for the density of population in those kind of cities. People are everywhere and certainly there is a huge interest to foreigners but I will inform you later on this topic. 

The first stop after I have been picked up from the airport was the host University. I was welcomed by the head of the International Relations department and introduced to several of the staff members who became my pivot point for any questions, which arise during the stay. In less than an hour of a brief talk and campus facilities orientation I was driven to prearranged accommodation to refresh and relax.

            The accommodation, although not confirmed was in only several kilometers from the University, but as you can imagine the size of a city, which is populated by 10 million of people its location was not suitable for me. Basically the University and the accommodation were on the edge of the city end near to a highway. After a few hours of research via the social networks I was lucky to find agencies to show me different places around to city. When you are foreigner it is comparatively easy to deal with the local population even with the language barrier. For most of them the money, which the foreigner is believed to have is the main factor allowing people like me to get help quickly and variety of options. In my case, the agent, brought me to an agent from competitive company, who on end resulted in me renting a place for the period of stay. Something that quite unlikely to happen in Europe without a mutual beneficial commission for both of the agents. On top of that I had small cash due to the timing of international transfers. In the same day I was introduced to a colleague of mine, which became very close contact in the months to follow.  

            Well in advance before my departure from Germany, I read numerous publications on Vietnam country wise, political system, social perceptions and so on. I even watch hours of documentary videos for the country. However, you cannot realize the situation if you don’t live there or experience it by yourself. As you might know Vietnam is one of the few of states in the World left with Communist regime. It is also known for the nearly 30 years War with the participation of the Americans. In its historical development Vietnam has been influences by another Western country (France) during the colonization period. First, Vietnam was under the rule of Chinese empire until the end of 11thcentury. By that time Vietnamese language was not developed. Signs of this could be backed up with the fact of the inscription on stone blocks preserved nowadays with the names of all Vietnamese intellectuals in Mandarin.  Vietnam has been occupied by the Japans after the end of the second world war. In the ancient time there are numerous of civilizations such as Khmer and Champ Pa, which had rule over nowadays territory of Vietnam.  Although, all this external factors Vietnam is a whole state with its differences between the North and the South. One of the main reasons in my opinion for this is the size and shape of this country. It borders with the Indochina sea all along the East side and stretches for more than 1700 kilometers. I had the chance to travel 3 times from the North to the South and it is quite different in terms of the cultural habits, environment, and infrastructure. The way people even look is quite different. Many of my colleagues were interested to listen the experience or see the pictures I made from the different places as it turned out that I have travelled more than them in their own Country.

            At the time I arrived in my new place, which was a spacious room in a three storeys house there was only one tenant from Canada. His name is Mitch and he was a freelance English teacher at a public school in Vietnam. Nowadays there is a huge interest in the English language by Vietnamese population due to the globalization process, business environment and better chances of securing bright future. Therefore, kids from an early age of even 3 or 4 start to learn the English language in public or private schools. The demand could not be reached by the Vietnamese teachers in English, which gives the opportunity for business or an employment of foreigners with quite satisfactory monetary and social benefits. What I know from my friends is that a single teaching lessons of 45 up to 60 minutes is paid between 20-28 USD. Just a simple calculation for the daily earnings by an English teacher reach the average monthly salary per capita in the whole Country of Vietnam. The method of calculation is the same as everywhere by dividing the GDP (Gross Domestic Product) to the number of population. With this said you could imagine the huge opportunity for foreigners and why nowadays there is a wave of young experiences or inexperienced teachers towards Vietnam but not only. Taxes in most cases are evaded.

Just for a couple of weeks the house was occupied by other foreigners from United States, Ireland and Nigeria.  In the following months I met numerous of expats, who were there for the same reason. Teaching English combined with experiencing the Asian culture and all its beauty. Although, Hanoi is one of the most air polluted cities on Earth, due to the overuse of motor vehicles, climate and density it is still place worth of visit. Vietnam is a very safe country in terms of peace among the society and private belongings. I have heard very rare stories or witnessed by myself arguments or violence between foreigners and Vietnam civil population and even among themselves. This is one of the key factor, which allowed Vietnam to expand on the International market as a favored destination for tourism purposes. On the other hand, the period, which marks the transition of Vietnam of a poor country through fast growing economy nowadays and likely in the future is corruption on all kind on political, military, police and even local level. Banks for transactions, deposits and all related operations do not take sufficient percent of the GDP. It easy to see that everywhere cash is the primary method for payments. There are people carrying several kilos of cash on a daily basis of their business is small or medium sized.  My colleagues even shared with me the amazing fact that many if not all good positions unofficially require you to pay enormous amounts of cash to secure the job. Another interesting fact is that there are no more coins in the monetary system of Vietnam. One US Dollar has the value of around 22 500 Vietnamese dongs, with nomination of the notes from 500 up to 500000 Vietnamese Dong. US dollars and Euro are not accepted for payment with some exceptions, although you are able to exchange officially at banks and unofficially at most of the jewelry shops and other business entities in the big cities. Another insight is that fuel is twice or even more cheaper than in Europe. Starting point to develop a rapid economy I guess.

The University of Thang Long University has one of the best facilities in Hanoi and probably in the whole State of Vietnam. I guess one of the main reasons is that it is the first private University. There is a spacious library with no shoe policy, sport facilities, beautiful gardens, shops, cafes, relaxing area, parking and numerous other administrative buildings which was available to me. I have been issued a card, which was ensuring entrance during the period of stay. There has been only one funny and in the same time ridiculous moment during the studies, where I left the study room to go to the toilet without my card and the security start arguing me in arrogant manner in Vietnamese language to leave the building until a colleague of mine suddenly appeared to explain my presence there. It seemed to me that I am just the only one foreigner in this University and most of the people either didn’t recognize me in the beginning or they never interact with me due to the language barrier. To be honest in the University and in my neighborhood I was a real attraction for the locals due to my origin, heights and visual difference from the rest of the crowd. Otherwise people in the city center of Hanoi are used with tourist and they pretty much know how to deal with foreigners. It was a bit strange in the first several weeks when people stop you and ask you for permission to take a photo with you in shops on the street and elsewhere. I have even been videorecorded, while taking a haircut in the local barbershop.

The study process was organized in evening classes and all day weekends to fit as much as possible to the schedule of my colleagues. All of them are working on a full time basis so this teaching time was probably the only convenient option for them to combine working and studying in the same time. The University has a partnership with the French University in Nice (Sophia Antipolis) and my colleagues will receive a dual master degree in the International Business Management and Administration. Most of our lecturers flew directly from Europe and stayed for couple of weeks to complete their subject. It was extremely helpful for all the students and me the fact that all of the teachers are working professionals in big government or non-government organizations providing us with actual situations in the business environment and not just theory without any practical value. The methods of teaching included simulation games, exercises in class, group work and common projects in a long term. In every subject we had to complete an exam in the form of a test, with which I find similarities with the American model of examination, although I prefer this assessment mode. I could easily claim that the whole class very communicative and helpful between themselves and in the same time all of them were friends. There was a strong social relationship between themselves, which I was happy to see as things in Europe are different and it is rare to see such a cohesive team. One thing, which I should definitely mention is that the whole course is taught in English and it surprised me the fact that even Vietnamese lecturers were speaking in English and if someone could not understand and a conversation starts they will continue to speak in the language I can comprehend. On the other hand, I was interested to know some basic words in the local language so I can manage to order at least water while alone or greet the people. Reading this essay, it sounds easy but when you have to deal in a slum or even in a luxury shop without anyone speaking English it is catastrophic for me as well as funny most of the times.

For example, when my brother arrived to visit me for 10 days in Vietnam, I headed towards the airport with my motorbike to welcome him. On the way my bike chain broke and I was stuck in the middle of the longest bridge in Hanoi across the Red River. People don’t use the multicultural sign with thumb up for pick up or help. Thousands of people tress passed me while I was trying to get their attention. Most of them probably thought I was a tourist enjoying the view from the bridge. Although, Vietnamese people seem not to bother for the individual they are extremely helpful if something is wrong or you are lost need medical attention or just witness unfair situation. As I have mentioned before Vietnam is pretty safe Country and when my colleague saw I have a Swiss knife in my motorbike in case of emergency and immediate repairmen required she was confused. According her if I was stopped by the Police and they found that in me I might have troubles as it is not typical for the local population.

Going back to the studies and my colleagues I would say they managed to involve me not only in class environment but in their day to day live. I even went on a weakened holiday with the whole group on the East coast of the sea in a resort popular among locals. Vietnamese people are very friendly and eating together in big groups is a social habit. The most popular street restaurants are with plastic chairs no more than two feet from the ground. Fridges are not available on most of the places and drinks are usually with the moderate temperature.  On the other hand, ice buckets or Styrofoam are extremely popular for keeping water and any kind of refreshment drinks. This might be due to the fact that technique in Vietnam is considerable more expensive then in Europe and electricity consumption and costs are higher. My rent was fixed per month and the electricity and other variable costs are then added. I was paying almost 60 USD per month for electricity only for an air conditioner and couple of chargers. Although, foreigners are tricked in many cases to overpay the actual cost of the bills for electricity, the half of this prize still was a lot for my average consumption. With this being said, a temperature chapter could be written.

Temperatures in Asia vary from 0 up to 40 degrees and very rarely drop below 0. Between February and August, it was extremely hot with very high humidity, which was external factor on day to day living with huge impact on me and I believe everyone. In my house we had a washing machine but we never used it as clothes need additional 3 days to dry due to the high humidity and they can get moisturized moldy. There is a spread sue of private washing on the street at a minimum price and the whole neighborhood uses their service (washing, drying and ironing). I used to sweat at least 20 times during the day so you could imagine the heat and unpleasant thousands of moments as sometimes you just need to hide somewhere. This kind of weather condition mixed with a densely polluted air is a bomb for your lungs. Exactly for this reason most of the people wear mask while, driving motorbike, walking on the streets and even in shops not to get virus infection from other people.  In May the rainy season is supposed but this year it was a bit later on. It is raining occasionally in the morning or during the whole day. However, there I have witnessed unimaginable amount of rain for a short period of time. Streets are flooded for less than 10 minutes and thousands of people, me as well have been stuck on the streets as there is no place to escape or hide.  To sum this up you need to be well psychologically prepared before taking this kind of journeys. Of course hot weather near the beautiful coastal line of Vietnam is pleasure or while driving your bike across the country roads some of the so pictures and breathtaking but is quite different from Europeans are used to especially with the humidity levels. You need to adapt very quickly and this sudden change might cause a lot of difficulties for vulnerable people. I am not informing you only about weather but everything. It is evitable to understand that every foreigner should adopt somehow to the political, economic, environment situation there if he wants to live for a long period. Over the history there has been many individuals and nations trying to change Vietnamese people for better or worst but if they don’t understand or do not accept external practices it is impossible to influence them. They have a strong culture society and family is on a cult position. This I could back up with the religion among Vietnamese locals. There is a quite misrepresentation that most of them are Buddhist. To be honest many of them don’t have a single religion or they appreciate different beliefs then the World wide recognized. Almost every single home or business entity has a special zone for memorial or sacred place for worshipping the ancestors. On this place they place fruits, money, chocolate, burning sticks, alcohol and event cigarettes. In their beliefs burning plastic shapes looking like bars of gold or burning fake money is a tradition, which if followed will return to them real money in the fore coming future.

Although, I was mainly in Hanoi I visited dozens of other cities, natural and cultural sites all across the country.  It is simply spectacular. From the very north border with China and the amazing rice paddy fields in Sapa, where I did 2 day trekking up to 3500 meters above sea level. Staying in a host family, with limited access to everything. Women’s give birth to their child’s on banana leafs and modern medicine is absolute myth there. Infrastructure, electricity and water are with very limited access due to the terrain and the harsh conditions.

Vietnam has one of the best rock formation in the World known as Ha Long Bay and recognized by UNESCO for its Outstanding Universal Value. Tourists are offered cruises with oversleep, sport activities, caving and different purpose visitations of the several thousand karst islands across the Indo-China sea. I had the luck to visit all nine World Heritage Sites in Vietnam and all of them are worth of seeing and experiencing the joy they or the trip brings.           

Once again, I had the opportunity to meet a lot of people in a short period of time, as well as to travel to different locations in the country to acquire sufficient view from different prospective, although I claim in my essay things or practices experienced by me this is only my point and should not serve as a judgement tool or influence anyone opinion. I hope the essay was interesting for you and all readers. I would be happy to share more thoughts or if anyone needs further information please feel free to contact me on my private email address:

[email protected]