Experience in Lomé, Togo by Yaovi Dodji

What was the city like to live in? Would you recommend it? What is the town like?

Hello friends! I moved to Lomé at the start of 2010 and I am still there now. I have just finished 3 years here and I can tell you that like many other West African capitals, the city is transforming rapidly. You can see the major development everywhere. The roads have been restored in almost every quarter of the city, often creating huge traffic jams in the rush hours and I can tell you that not all of them are finished yet.

Lomé is a city where you can see both poverty and wealth at the same time. Next to the grand houses, you will also see all the deteriorating old houses without water and electricity. There is not really a specific 'bourgeois' area except the 'Caisse' which is where all the wealthy internationals live.

Ah yes! I would strongly recommend visiting the city to everyone. To those who love adventure, to those who do not care about 100% luxury, for those who love 24 hours of sun. People are friendly and very hospitable. Lomé is a relaxed town. People do not hurry in the streets and do not care about earning huge amounts of money. Lomé has its own pace, making it a city like no other.

What is the student life like in Lomé?

'The University of Lomé' is the only public campus so the student life here is quite unique. Unlike Europe, the academic year is often interrupted by numerous strikes. Last year was the height of it all. The campus was closed twice to avoid clashes between students and security forces. Students spent over two months at home. Students are demanding better living and study conditions. There are many student demonstrations throughout the year. Apart from this, there are always problems with the number of lecture halls, qualified teachers and library equipment... But besides these problems, the worst issue is with the level of the university work. There is sports equipment, music rooms and space for activities. The serious student knows how to play their cards right. As for the other universities, the private ones, their academic year is a lot more peaceful but I doubt that their education is better, despite their high fees.

What is the cost of living in Lomé?

The cost of living is relatively cheaper in Lomé compared to other capitals of the sub-region. With only 100 € a month, a student can easily get by. This is a great advantage for students who do not have much financial support. This is a great asset to students worldwide who want to come to Lomé and experience a new culture. One thing I would recommend is to have your own means of transport in Lomé because transportation (taxi, motorcycle taxi... ) costs a lot and can eat up most of your monthly budget.

Is it difficult to find accommodation in Lomé? Do you have any advice?

In Lomé, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find accommodation but it is not impossible. You can easily find somewhere without using an agency. With a little luck and research, you will find somewhere in the end but often it's on the outskirts of the city. The city centre is already very populated but still, some places are found. This year, I moved house and it only took me two weeks to find somewhere else. According to a prices survey created on the basis of a double, ventilated room with a private bathroom, the monthly rent is generally 25000FCFA which is is €38. 16. Usually, the owners ask for the payment 10 months/1 year in advance. It is rare to find furnished studios for students. Students that want to live off-campus will have to buy all the equipment they need. For stays of only a few days, the required tourism tax is generally included in the rates of small hotels; for better quality hotels, you will have to pay extra tax which is 1, 000 FCFA per person per night. In Lomé, the prices are a bit higher. breakfast is never included.

• Very cheap: less than 4000 CFA francs (6, 10 €).
• Budget: 4 000-8 000 F CFA (6, 10 to 12, € 30).
• Average prices: 8 000-12 000 CFA francs (12, 30 to 18, € 30).
• Deluxe: 12 000-20 000 francs CFA (18, 30-30, 50 €).

The advice I would give to my friends is to not rent houses too far out of the city centre. This is for security reasons because there are often thieves in these areas.

How is food in the city? What are your favourite dishes?

I can assure you that in Lomé, the food is good all day every day. For the cheapest solution; opt for the small bars and buy from the women cooking in the markets or on the street. For the latter, just take a look at wealthy customers and you know it is good quality and clean.

Prices of dishes (often plenty of it! ).

• Very cheap: less than 1000 CFA francs (1, 50 €).
• Budget: 1 000-3 500 CFA F (1, 50-5, 30 €).
• Average price: 3 500-6 000 CFA francs (5, 30-9, 20 €).
• Expensive: above 6000 F CFA (9, 20 €).

I often cook in my kitchen at home but every time I go out, my favourite dishes are french fries, 'du riz au gras', 'fufu' made with beef etc. All restaurants serve good quality dishes, there are African or European specialities...

What places do you recommend to see in Lomé?

In Lomé, if you are motivated to see the world and its diverse cultures, there are many places to visit:

• There is the beach with beautiful palm trees.
• The Independence Square where the Monument of Independence stands, a place that is popular with tourists.
• There is the big Lomé Market, one of the largest in the region.
• There is also the Lucky Market for those who are curious.
• There are hotels like Mercure Sarakawa, Ibis, Palm Beach. They are all by the sea and the quality of service is very high.
• There are other 5 star hotels like Eda abd Oba Novela Star.
• You can also visit the university campus which is often open.
• You can also visit the shanty towns to see how people live there. The people are very friendly and love to interact with foreign people.
• For nights out, I recommend the night clubs Byblos, Privilege, Sunset, Mandingo (piano bar) without forgetting Montecristo, a must-go nightclub and the new club Oba Night which people are talking about.

What do you eat in Lomé? Can you tell us your favourite places?

As I said earlier, you can buy food from everywhere you go in Lomé. There are expensive restaurants in almost every corner of the city. My favourite places to eat are among 'Le Campus Plage', a nicely decorated restaurant in the University of Lomé. Located near the lagoon, it offers a beautiful view of the capital. There is also the 'Vivi Royale' restaurant that has a gorgeous setting. I also like to go to the ‘Festival des glaces’.

What places do you recommend to go out in Lomé?

To go out!? I do not know what to say but I assure you there are plenty of places to go out in Lomé. Each neighbourhood has its own secret location that attracts lots of people. If you go out with friends, it is so much fun. It never gets boring in Lomé if you love discovering new places to go...

What advice would you give future Erasmus students in Lomé?

For prospective Erasmus students, I already welcome them. Lomé does not quite offer everything that a student needs but you are guaranteed to get all the necessities here. It is a popular city for students. One last bit of advice; just be careful and look after your money well, do not hang out in the street carrying large amounts.